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The studio turned out fantastic and we love the tiny house. The area we live in was hit extremely hard during Hurricane Helene. All our bridges were washed away, roads destroyed by water and landslides. We are still not able to live back in our home or work in my studio. We are not expecting to have power back until April May 2025 up to where my home and studio is. Last week we managed to get our road cleared of all debris and trees with the amazing help of the National Guard & other volunteers. We can now get to our house and home but only with an ATV. We are thankful to have friends to stay with in Greenville, SC and they also lent us one of their cars since we cannot drive any of our vehicles out of property. We are heading back there today to see do more clean up and see if we can get a donated generator to run basic electricity to the tiny house. Cannot fire the glass kilns though.

We are still not able to live back in our home or work in my studio. The area we live in was hit extremely hard. All our bridges were washed away, roads destroyed by water and landslides. We are not expecting to have power back until April May 2025 up to where my home and studio is. Last week we managed to get our road cleared of all debris and trees with the amazing help of the National Guard & other volunteers. We can now get to our house and home but only with an ATV. We are thankful to have friends to stay with in Greenville, SC and they also lent us one of their cars since we cannot drive any of our vehicles out of property. We are heading back there today to see do more clean up and see if we can get a donated generator to run basic electricity to the tiny house. Cannot fire the glass kilns though.

Yes

Thank you Gabriela. I enjoy teaching and the videos are a relatively new thing for me. Thank you for your comments.

Will be releasing in a few months.

Tara we design and make the lamp base ourselves in-house. We do not sell them to the general public.

@@oatkaglass they are beautiful. Thank you for responding 😀

Hey, thanks!

You are so welcome!

Not for this technique. The firing schedule has certain ramps and holds and specific temperatures which I am pretty sure a microwave kiln can not handle.

No.

Initial firing schedule 200 F/hr to 400 F hold for 30 minutes 400 F/hr to 1320 F hold for 20 minutes AFAP to 900 F (Bullseye COE90) or 960 F (Sys96) hold for 1 hour NOTE: The hold time for the anneal depends on how thick your F&F piece is. Please anneal for the thickness of the piece. 180 F/hr to 700 F hold for 1 minute When tack fusing the fired F&F to another piece of glass and you do not want to loose any of the detail depends on how your kiln fires AND on what type of project you are tack fusing the F&F to. For the signs that I make, I place the F&F elements onto the single layer base glass, that has not been pre-fused. I do use my diamond hand pads to round off the corners and the edges of the glass since the tack fuse temperature I use to tack the F&F elements is not high enough to round the corners of the base glass on it's own. You will have to test your kiln for the temperature that does not allow the details to soften to much on your F&F pieces. I would start testing with only going to 1275F....and go from there. Tack Fuse F&F Firing schedule to a single layer non-pre-fused base or pre-fired base glass 200-250 F/hr to 1000 F hold for 10 minutes 150 F/hr to 1225 F hold for 15 minutes 400 F/hr to 1275-1325 F hold for 0-5 minutes (I would be watching what the glass is doing inside the kiln at this point just to make sure you are not loosing any precious texture) AFAP to 900 F (Bullseye COE90) or 960 F (Sys96) anneal hold time is for the thickest part of your glass 80 F/hr to 800 F hold for 1 minute 160 F/hr to 700 F hold for 1 minute This is a starting point for you....please test before making your masterpiece.

:)

Glad you enjoyed it! Become one of my Patrons so you can get access to all of my step-by-step videos: www.patreon.com/oatkaglassstudio Follow along on my blog: www.oatkaglass.com/blogs/news

You are so welcome! Become one of my Patrons so you can get access to all of my step-by-step videos: www.patreon.com/oatkaglassstudio Follow along on my blog: www.oatkaglass.com/blogs/news

Thank you very much

Hello Linda, Typically if the mold is deep and that fact gets in the way of creating the piece, I just trim off the excess mold material from the top. As long as the trimming does not affect the structure of the mold you are good to go.

I love them as well. They are a great way of creating color samples for the glass powders.

The starting thickness of the glass clay disc was about 1/16". Float glass definitely a different animal but the float and the Bullseye Glass disc both would only drop to a certain depth. I did not go any thicker with the discs for the drop vessels as I was trying to stay as thin as possible BUT that might something to try. I don't think it will make any difference in how far they drop because I feel that the structure of the pressed glass powders inhibits the discs ability to behave like a drop using traditional ways of building the glass blanks. That being said.....you can always give it a try.

If you become a patron on my Patreon page, you will be able to watch the full series plus I have the second series coming out within the next week as well as an eBook on this process.

Hello Jennifer That is something I may try in the future. :)

You could use any fusible glass powders with the modeling glass or glass clay techniques.

I wrote a pdf document for a class that I taught in 2014 on Freeze and Fuse that includes the firing schedules. cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0399/0778/6909/files/Oatka_Freeze_and_Fuse.pdf?v=1616497031

@@oatkaglass thank you so much!

Have you though or heard about using methylcellulose in a glass clay mixture? I have some that I was going to use in making my own metal clay formula.

@@RadiantJasmin.....wow....Paula Radke. I haven't heard that name for quite awhile. :) I know her glass clay no longer is available, and there were several other products out there for sale but unfortunately they have disappeared over the years. I will try using methylcellulose in my next video series on this topic. Thanks for the suggestion. In my this first video series I am working with Glass Bird Studios Modeling Glass binder & medium, but also have made my own version of the binder. Throughout the other 3 parts to this video series, we make it, dry it, fire it, manipulate it a couple of times. I am doing this just to compare my version of a binder with that of the Glass Bird Studios binder. All interesting results and I will be exploring glass clay further in future video series on the topic. I hope you can join us and support my efforts via my Patreon site. It is proving to be an interesting journey. www.patreon.com/oatkaglassstudio