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Bozo T Clown
Добавлен 17 мар 2016
FlowTec pressure water tank bladder replacement & install
This video is divided into sections showing how to test tanks, remove the bladders, where to purchase new bladders, how to prepare the new bladder for installation, install the new bladder, and a few funnies along the way.
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Видео
Would you please make a companion video for the tank prostate?
Man hour wise……..is it worth it?
You got them Cheech and Chong up in smoke skills man 😅
Any suggestions as to who sells replacement bladder membranes? Cleanflow does not have any.
I wish all bladder tanks come with a forklift though
Thanks! Watching your video has convinced me to just buy a new tank bite the bullet on the cost. Even if I can get that bladder which is in doubt it seems like a real pain in the ass dirty job to replace. I have the water worker 86 gallon tank right now that I put in in 2015 so I'm sure the bladder is due to fail. Right now it's working but I'm just planning ahead, but then again I'm 75 years old so maybe my sons will have to deal with it....... LOL
I like this video a lot . Have you looked inti a Cycle Stop Valve?
What size are the bolts ? 12"L x ?
These bladders are discontinued now sadly. Just as soon as I needed mine replaced. I hope these homedepot water worker tanks last.
He did a great job showing how it's done . Great teacher .
Fabulous instruction and show of ingenuity. You are the neighbor I need here in Baja Sur, MX. You may not personally be here, but your experience and advice is. Thank you. My Mexican Plummer is having a hard time figuring out why our Flotec tank, looks just your own, realty goes on and off and on and off. I just lost the motor. Motor replaced the problem continues -- so now - after RUclips University, I’m thinking it is a bladder problem. I know how to replace one now. Somehow I can’t talk my wife into purchasing a hi-low, so I suppose I will use our side x side. God bless you for sharing. Richard
THANK YOU
to change the fan belt on a 580 D case backhoe 4x4 it takes approximately 30 minutes loosen the two bolts on the hydraulic pump casing take a bar to push it back enough to slide the fan belt down and around the crankshaft pulley / water pump and the alternator it's 123
same for 2wd?
what are you changing the pump and the fan belt
sir you do not have too drain any fluids or lines to install your fan belt
Excellent video, very well organized! How long would you say the original bladders lasted?
You don't got to do all that just just take the 4 m8 1.25 bolts out of the fan hub lay the fan up against the rad put some cardboard in front so you don't hurt the rad. Then just take the 4. 5/8 head bolts out of the pump shaft coupler. Slide the coupler forward put your belt on then put the fan hub back on. You Don really even have to take the fan hub off just gives you more room
Nice sir
Excelente video, me ayudó mucho ya que pasé mucho trabajo extrayendo una membrana dañada de este tipo de tanque a presión, espero encontrar el repuesto ...👏👏👏👍👍👍
why not put a new fiberglass pressure tank in????
I’m here watching, because a friends fibglass pressure tank is dead after using it for 8 years.
Great how to do it video lots of good tips. My two FlowTec tanks had some problems which I'm sure is my fault! Didnt check air pressure, one tank was waterlogged the other was empty. Both bladders were ruptured, because of not keeping track of the air pressure for a couple of years. Now I check every 6 months or so like clockwork. After 6 months both were down 5 PSI per tank. Ended up giving one tank to neighbor for a outdoor fireplace, the other I replaced the bladder. The problem is the tank will not hold air and is leaking around the bolt on base? Will have to pull it apart again to see why it is not sealing. In the meantime I replaced both with two new 86 gallon Water Worker diaphragm tanks, which are similar to my orignial Goulds tank which rusted below the diaphragm and started leaking. Still beats the heck out of the original non bladder steel tank that would get waterlogged every couple of months. I guess 10 years between tank changes isn't too bad. "CHECK THAT AIR PRESSURE"!
Get yourself a Charlatte bladder tank Jim. You won't have to worry about corrosion or air leaks.
Absolutely donot pull pompe and drain fluide
For a belt all can be avoided with splitting and refluxing the belt or by putting a ajustable link v belt...good lock ! Like old timers use to do !
Several people have said to remove the 4 coupler bolts, slide it forward, and slide sideways the new belt in. I asked my dealer about that, and he said it could work. The problem is, if the bolts are too tight to break loose, which is normal, you would have to do it this way. Also, he said if you don't get the bolts tight enough because there is a small space and it is difficult to tighten the bolts up, the bolts may come loose, and then the coupling threads will be buggered up and this procedure will still need to be done. (Been there, done that, purchase replacement coupling at Wallmart.com, part #253541A1 D136083, $90). He admitted that he does try the 4 bolts first, and if successful uses blue lock tight, (not red), and reinstalls the bolts. The problem with that method is the next time the belt needs changing, you are back to this method, using an impact wrench to remove the bolts. For me, knowing the spline is not worn out, the oil is clean, or replaced, the bolts will not come apart.... I guess spending 8 hours with my tractor is not a big problem. The bolts were 12 inches long for the weight.
Great idea on the counterweight not being removed but slide it forward on longer bolts. I too recommend that you should only remove 4 bolts off balancer / pump coupler, then pry the coupler forward enough to slide belt thru on its side. Tools used are two 5/8 wrenches (torque), a man with pry bar on passenger side to hold crank from rotating, and him to also bump the engine over. Use left hand to reach and unbolt as standing between wheel and engine. No need to drain fluids. Case dealer works by the $$$ hour, not by the simple job.
I have a 580D and I'm also wondering if I could just pull the pump out and gain enough space without disconnecting the hydrolic lines. Maybe if I can get the pump out just over 2 inches without disconnecting the hydrolic lines I might be able to slip the belts off and through the hole?
My water pump sprung a huge leak and I bought a new belt since the old one is worn and then I find out changing it is a wee bit difficult.
That is a lot of work not needed, take off the four bolts right under the fan to the pump and slide the pump yoke in, should be enough room to get the belt in there on it's side.
Done mine tonight 1hr 45 minutes removed just two bolts on the coupler , while leaving two bolts on their last few treads slide the belt in sideways, reinstall two bolts and so on👍🇬🇧
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All you have to do is unbolt the coupler and slide it towards the pump....
Thanks DooMeD. Will begin process this weekend. Any tips are appreciated.
Actually, someone told me to do that. There was no way I could figure out how to get it unbolted and out of the way. I went to the case dealer, and that is where I was instructed to do the all day procedure of draining the oil and pulling the pump. Would you mind doing a video of the belt replacement undoing the coupling, along with any special tools you might use? If we can see how to do it, I will remove this video. For now, this is the way the Case dealer replaces the belt. Thanks.
,@@rusmes4732
Actually I replaced my belt on the 580K last weekend. The machine had set for 14 years and when I tried starting it, the belt snapped immediately due to frozen alternator. Also when I got into it I had to also replace the radiator, alternator, water pump and the oil cooler. So since those were out, and the hood was off, I had plenty of access to get to the pump. I unbolted the four bolts you did, but all mine were bolts, unlike your two bottom ones which you said they were studs. Someone must of screwed up the bolts before on a previous job. Anyway, they came out fairly easily. I also disconnected the hydraulic return line on the left that attaches to the strainer in the frame. While I was there, I replaced the return hose, and cleaned the strainer. You do not need to replace the strainer, since its stainless, just clean it. I did replace the hose since I was there already. I also pulled the 4 oil cooler lines and radiator hoses since I replaced both units. Once everything was detached from the pump, including detaching the hydraulic lines on the right, I wiggled the pump back and forth until it came out of the machine. I now had room to replace the belt. I also put some antisieze on the pump shaft before I put it back in. Someone told me since its such a time consuming job, that I should put a second belt in the space as a back up precaution in case the new belt breaks down the road but personally I dont know how you would do that with such limited space. Anyway, it all went back together just fine, but took almost the entire day by myself. A Case mechanic told me if I couldnt get the pump shaft to split from the machine, then just uncouple the 4 bolts on the coupler and get the belt in that way. I think that would be harder in my case since I had everything off and didnt want to turn the pump over with out fluid. Also, its tough to get to those 4 bolts and you have to "bump" the motor the get the bolts in a spot to get to them, but that may be an option for the future if I ever (god forbid) have to replace the belt again. To answer you question about moving the front weights forward on longer 12"bolts, you dont need to do that. I suggest DO NOT remove your video though since it was your video that got me to replace the belt myself so thank you for that. Hope this helps, and thanks again for the video.
You can slide a new one in behind the coupler. I’ve done it on a 580k and 550e. Less mess for sure. Not a lot of room to do it though.
Nice Job! Very clear process. Saves reading 30 plus pages in the repair manual. Thanks for the video... By the way, how long are the bolts you used for the counterweight?
The bolts were 12 inches as I remember. When I slid the counterweight I used a floor jack and slightly lifted the weight so it would move easy over the threads.