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There is a variety of cells. The one that comes with it lasts 6 months on average. You can also get the Long Life cell with a 12 month average life.

It might be time to change the cell. Or if you have a new cell, it might be time to replace the controller. Please visit clearblueionizer.com and use the contact form to request a new controller.

Hey - glad to hear that you're discovering the benefits of adding an ionizer to your salt pool! If you ever get sick of cleaning the anode weekly, or annoyed by the thing floating around all the time, try one of our inline ionizer systems!

Do you copy paste this same comment under every video?

@user-oe9ux4yq4i Great idea!! I'd only copy and paste it on similar videos regarding pool water purification methods throughout the world. I'm hoping this good man will read this and give us updates. Thanks for your interest. 😊

Thanks for the kind words! So happy to hear that you’re getting the most from your pool and the ClearBlue system!

Yes, this is sorely needed. However, the plumbing hookup and the settings are the same in the meantime!

♫ I don't know much..... but I know I love yooooooooooou ♫

Yes, thanks for the suggestion! We recommned this copper test: www.amazon.ca/Copper-Test-Strips-Mineral-Pools/dp/B0BZQGLQHV/

The silver and zinc concentration is proprietary and is designed to maximize sanitizing while making sure that the water is soft on skin and materials.

The concentration of salt will be the same. But you can turn down the salt chlorinator so less chlorine is generated and the salt cell will last longer. Also, the pH will not rise as quickly because less chlorine is generated.

The ClearBlue systems are good for up to 40,000 gallons. More than that, and you can use multiple systems, or find a more industrial strength one.

@@mineralpools Can you recommend an industrial brand? Please and Thank You for replying. 💚

www.clearblueionizer.com/en/topic/does-the-tee-have-to-be-horizontal-or-can-it-be-another-direction/

Hello. The typical life of the cell on a pool is 6-12 months. The first one always goes quicker and with the larger model, you may only get 3 months out of the first one that comes with it. On spas, they last 2-3 years and 1-2 years on swim spas.

Truth!

You still need chlorine with ClearBlue, but 50-80% less.

You get what you pay for! They do work and help to keep algae away, but they only ionize when there is enough light. So in many cases, they cannot release enough minerals to keep the water safe. This is why none of them are approved by EPA or Health Canada.

All part of the fun :)

Z-puck. These are zinc tablets available in parts of Canada. In the US, look for Pool Life MPT Extra at your local pool store or online.

It is the salt in the water that causes corrosion. It takes several years.

Yes, we do not get into that level of detail. The main idea is that salt systems generate chlorine.

Haha good eye :D

Where do you get your colloidal silver and copper? Link to dosing instructions would be helpful as well. Thanks!

Amazon.

Funny you mention zinc because ClearBlue is the only mineral system that uses copper and zinc (as well as silver :). Remember that these minerals are at a VERY low level to be effective in the pool against algae and microorganisms. You will get the same amount of copper from many household showers.

With ClearBlue there is a mineral cell that needs to be replaced every 6-12 months on a pool or 2-3 years on a hot tub. With a pool, the first one will go in 3-6 months on a large pool because the minerals need to ramp up in the water. At time of writing, replacement cells can be ordered online and through retailers for $130 - $150. Other than that, ongoing maintenance costs are very low. The power consumption is negligible. Typically, customers save more on chemical costs than they pay in maintaining the system.

The ClearBlue cell will last 6-12 months on a pool and 2-3 years in a hot tub. It can be reused season over season if you close the pool or hot tub. The cost ranges from $130 - $160, depending on the retailer.

Do elaborate please

@@mineralpools As I said, most of this has already been mentioned. 1) It's not highly corrosive to pool equipment. The salt content of the water is less than the salt content of a teardrop. It *may* be corrosive to your decking, due to salt buildup over time, but only if you don't clean it. 2) It does not require a large volume of salt annually. When I open my pool in the spring, I put 1-3 bags of salt in it. Salt does not evaporate, and is not consumed by the system. You only lose it due to splash out, overflow, or backwashing if you have a sand or DE filter. 3) That corrosion on those steel panels is almost certainly not due to the salt content of the water. There's no way to reliably say what caused it. It could have been the salt, but it's unlikely that it contributed significantly due to the low salt content of a salt water pool. It could *just have easily* been high humidity, the length of time it stayed wet, high or low PH, or any number of other things. 4) It does not necessarily cause any scaling, staining or cloudy water. I've owned a salt water pool for years, and never had any of those problems that couldn't easily be explained by some other cause. Scale is more likely to be caused by too much calcium, and staining by minerals in the water. 5) In *some* environments, corrosion, scaling, etc might be a problem. In such a case, you should have a sacrificial anode as part of your system. It's not an addition to the system to make up for the shortcomings of a salt cell, it's *part* of the system, which must be kept in balance. It's no different from adding CYA or calcium to your pool. 6) The reason why they "don't work" below 60 degrees is by design. The control board stops sending power to the cell because you don't need much chlorine at those temperatures, and it's far better to drop in a couple of tabs every week than to wear out your expensive salt cell. That being said, they are less efficient when the water temperature is below 60 degrees, but I still think that the way you presented it was a misrepresentation of what is actually happening. 7) If properly cared for, salt cells need to be replaced more like every 5-10 years, not 3-4. They're good for at least 10k hours. Do the right thing and turn your water over between 1 and 2 times per day, less in the winter, and make sure your salt system only has power when the pump is on, and you'll replace your cell far less often. 8) Replacement cells *are* expensive, but still less than the cost of 5-10 years of chlorine tablets. The cost begins to even out when you consider that they do drive PH up, and as a result, you either need an acid pump, or you need to manually add acid every week. Still, the maintenance cost is roughly equivalent. 9) As far as the salt cell blowing up, most have a flow meter and will shut down if no flow is detected. However, even if they don't, explosion is only a risk when the cell is improperly installed. It should be the highest point in your system by at least 6 inches so that the hydrogen gas, which is created as a byproduct, only fills the canister which houses the plates. The cells are sized deliberately and appropriately such that the amount of hydrogen gas that they can contain is non-volatile and quite safe. 10) Yes the plates do scale up. When you open your pool you should check them and either scrape off the scale, or use a solution of muriatic acid to clean them. This is no different than the regular maintenance you'd do to make sure your cartridge filter is clean, or your DE filter is charged. The vast majority of cells are either clear so you can see the scale, or have an indicator that tells you when it needs to be cleaned. You're acting like the owner of a salt cell is one of those people from an infomercial that can't do some extremely simple task without bumbling it, and therefore need whatever it is the infomercial is selling. I'm not saying ionizers aren't better. I have no idea if they are or aren't, as I have no experience with them. However, it would be a shame for someone to see your video and take your claims as the honest and whole truth and be turned away from using a salt system if that's what they really want. Apologies if any of this seems derogatory. I don't mean it to be. I just honestly don't believe the claims you made about salt systems to be accurate.

​@@lenonkitchens7727 Everyone has different experiences! Thanks for sharing yours!

@@lenonkitchens7727 wait.. misinformation "has less salt than tears" tears and serum from our bodies is extremely salty over 6 milligrams (mg) of NaCl dissolved in each millilitre (ml) of tear fluid. So bad example dumbass.

@@Frankybeanselevators I shouldn't even reply to such an idiotic comment, but I will this one time. A human tear is less than one percent salt, which is significantly more than the concentration in a pool, and yet still won't corrode any of the fixtures in a pool. Dumbass.

Hi Pete. Copper sulphate is similar and it will act as an algaecide. ClearBlue also adds Silver and Zinc. Silver kills certain bacteria and viruses that even chlorine can't get at. The zinc is used to bond with the copper and silver to keep them in solution and active longer. Zinc is also good for the skin. ClearBlue is 100% pure natural minerals (no other additives) and is fully automated. Cheers!

You will never mesuré cooper like you do with silver. Not. Such ppm. I use colloidal silver and cooper ones a week and 2 wires of silver and cooper on my skimmer and my pool looks beautiful

@@poweralways4521 Hello. As this is new to me what you are describing, can you please be more specific, because it sounds terrific way to keep pool clear. Mill. Thanks

Yes, there is more than one way to sanitize a pool :) Whatever works best for you!

Honestly all these systems are pretty close to each other

How do you control and keep the calcium hardness level at bay while on a salt system? I love that you don’t gotta deal with high CYA and constant liquid chlorine use but I don’t like the calcium hardness increase, how Do you keep it low?

​@chabka34 not from what I hear. Copper silver ionization systems are overall the best.

​@@mineralpools ha, nice of you to say but from what I've heard copper silver ionization systems are overall the best. Thank you 😊

How did it work out? might make one myself just curious of ewsults and any tips.

@@jrandesi56 I'm coming into the third year. I'm on v 2.0. It's not a cure all but it significantly cuts down the need for chlorine and as a byproduct pulls total dissolved solids from the water. Still do not fully understand it but I know what I've seen in the last few years. For $20-30 you can't go wrong. Get the thickest pieces of copper you can. I use strips cut from a 4"x 12" copper pipe cut at 1" wide 12" long now.

@@badmandansanchez1823 Awesome!

@@badmandansanchez1823 that's why I am browsing the depths of YT right now, just keep in mind that 2.3ppm+? Of copper is toxic to humans, and copper does stain pools. I am thinking of going with the extremepower ionizer version from home depot, they have it on sale for like $60 right now. Good luck!

There are copper ionizer systems on the market that put waaaay too much copper in the water which can lead to discoloration of hair and anything else in the water. For this to happen, the chlorine must also be too high. Note that chlorine alone can also lead to this if it is too high. In 10+ years, this has never been a problem with ClearBlue. This is because it is intelligently controlled so that the minerals never get too high.

this whole video is a load of shit