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Why do you say “measure” so retardedly?

Thank you, great video!

Taylor Donna Walker Robert White Thomas

"It locks into the lugs of the barrel extension and that's keeping all of the stress and torque off of your upper receiver" This is actually 100% false. When you apply torque to the barrel nut, the barrel nut tries to rotate the upper receiver. The only thing preventing the upper receiver from rotating is the tiny index pin on your barrel. That pin was never designed to take any torque and it is incredibly easy to damage your upper when using these tools. Pull up the video "AR-15 Reaction Rods" by AR Build Junkie where Chad Albrecht demonstrates how this happens. These tools are okay for casual hobby use, but a $20 clamshell or $26 split block from PlastiXrevolution would be MUCH safer to use than the lug-lok. And if you want to spend close to $100 then pick up the Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod, which is by far the best option.

No video talks about how to remove the wood screw out of the rubber pad. After the screw tip comes off the wooden buttstock, u kant back it out further. It just rotates in the hole. Hitting the end sticking out w a hammer failed. It doesn't move 1/32"!!!! Do u know how?

Great Video My Friend, Thank You for using TriggerShims Brand Products! 🙂

Beautiful work. Do You have an email to which I can send you some questions, I am from Costa Rica and there is no gunsmithing tradition around here maybe you can help me with my Browning Citori re blueing project. Thanks in advance.

What did you do to get good cartridge feed out of the magazine. I am doing a 98 in 450 and have not been able to get the cartridge feed figured out. Biggest issue is the cartridge nosing down. I did put about a 5/8" space to put in the rear of the magazine and am using a remington 700 300 WSM SA follower. Any advice would be appreciatied. Thanks

I was looking at new stocks for my 700 BDL. One says I may have to adjust the lug so barrel doesn't touch sides. Been shooting since 1966. And work at a gun store after USMC. And competitive SASS Shooter. I work on guns daily. But never had to adjust the lug to fit in a new stock. I know I know I'm old school. But did I miss something I should have learned long ago?

well that was useless

Very good! Fun to watch. Never seen it before.

Did it increase accuracy?

how about octagon barrel?

What was wrong that you had to do this

I have the left handed bolt. The extractor pins should be mirror opposite right?

Bolt shims are nothing but snake oil. As long as headspace is within spec and not so far out ignition issues there's no reason to do this on a relatively new rifle

How do you get the bolt back if you accidentally twisted the top notch to the left, down into the groove.

Rather than going threw all this disassembling, cut a small piece of tin solder and place on the bolt. Close bolt on solder than remove and measure it. Tool maker lead set. Use this method every tool set up to check shut height.

What do you think of it now?

Thanks for this video! Also, I assume truing the action will mean I'll have to re-headspace the barrel?

You are going to have some serious striker issues

Those liners done slide in that easy. A mallet is generally used.

What size of pin punch would be needed to remove the ejector? Will a 1/16 work?

Sure was a lot of maysuring. 🤣

Wow the slop in the upper receiver with the red block installed is unacceptable.

you suck

I have EGW on both my Ruger American 308 and American Rimfire rifles. I honestly don't know any better rails out there.

Redneck innovation, well done 👊🏼

I have the same problem whit my 3006. What can i do bro.?

I JUST bought an ORIGINAL Savage 10FCM Scout in 308. Would really appreciate if I could pick your brain. Is the action screw spacing on that stock 4.275" ? Is the mag staggered feed or center feed? I want to modify it to accept center feed mags, maybe even AR10 or AICS pattern mags if possible. THANK YOU for posting this!

just get better at shooting the gun will always be more accurate than you that was advice from a smith and he was so right

I am about to fit one of these stocks to my Swedish 96 in 6.5 x 55. I hope I can finish at least as half good as yours. Already has been sporterised so not worried about destroying an original. Also will be using the same scope mounts, unsure if the already drilled action, hoping the 3 holes match up.

Cool! I just got a barreled action for less than I have seen them in awhile... I was going re barrel it to 6x45 but I might do a 6max when barrels become more available.... looking for a cheap stock for the time being...

Get yourself a set of graduated headspace gauges a million times quicker than removing a barrel. But I can say with almost absolute certainty 0.041" - 0.042" is all you will ever need even with eley ammo.

Verry good, but still missing the accuracy results ❤

I true the face in a lathe personally. I also use a reamer to true up the threads before facing the lugs. I rechambered a mauser and was suprised how subtlety different blueprinting was compared to all the rem700s I've built.

How would you do this on a 452 where you can't remove the barrel?

I have only the .22 insert and used it for my .308. It works since all it does is comparing the maximum to the desired seating depth. If same bullet is used, I am not sure why it matters to have larger caliber inserts?

Does it come with the case neck measure?

Hey I know I’m a little late but could I use all oem gen 4 lower parts kit ?

Does that square the "points" on the threading?

So easy, even I was able to do it. Thanks!

That was a great video very informative. Thank you

Look here boys n girls , another FIERCE FIREARMS, that someone had take their gun to another gunsmith. Fierce needs to be reported to BBB !

Stainless steel tanks?

If you zero the dial on your calipers to the thickness of your fishtail angle gage you dont have to subtract it

Question Is this really as easy as you're making it look, or do you just have too much practice? I work as a diesel mechanic, so I don't think I'll have any trouble figuring out the steps to do it, I'm just wondering how much of a pain in the ass it would be. This video is inspiring. I'd like to build the quintessential R700 woods rifle. Not sure what cartridge, but I would like it to be blueprinted correctly and stick the recoil lug on a surface grinder to be sure it's right. Then have a professional spin me up a barrel and install express sights on it and then I'd put the whole thing into a really nice looking wood stock with maybe a BDL floor plate I just paid a guy a whole pile of money to build me a Rem700 running The LORD's Cartridge. 24inch Krieger 10twist 4groove idk the recoil lug trued up R700 with 8-40 screws and all dropped into a McMillan U-1 tactical stock with ARCA and Hawkins M5. Factory trigger set to 3lb.

Your rifle looks great. Good job on fixing the muzzle break. I was really interested in your build because I'm thinking about using one of my 1893 actions to build a 450 Bushmaster. I have machine tools, stock blanks, a 45 cal Green mountain blank, and there's an orange kickeez pad in one of the drawers. About all I need is to pick up a reamer. The question that I wanted to ask you is about feeding. I assume that because of the larger case body only 4 rounds fit in the magazine. Do the cartridges feed well without modifying the feed rails? Did you have to do any work on the follower? It takes some fitting on the sear slot in the tang, and the cocking piece, to get a Timney trigger to work on a '93 but I've done that before. Did you glass bed your action? FYI: the eyepiece bell on modern scopes are usually bigger in diameter than older scopes like your Unertl, and sometimes the bolt handle can contact against the eyepiece so don't toss out those high scope rings just yet.

Great video, could be a bit longer for beginners, on how to exactly use the comparator set. 👍

good video dude to the point and you reference where you got the tools you use. Happy shooting!