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beautiful

thus us a good record plater

your start place i have not been there for years studio spares used to be there they moved away

Many BSR changers had grease that would dry up and completely seize the machine, but they are fixable and there are guides on yt.

Did you encounter the situation, when in the case of disconnecting the audio monitor from a studio monitor switched on, the studio monitor produced a short burst of 60 hz? In cases of such disconnections, which I was told may be damaging to the fidelity of sound, did you encounter speakers who lost something like 5-10 percent of qualilty, fidelity and soundstage after that short popping incident? I mean, not very significant, but still heard slight degradation of sound? As if pro speakers lost "air" above and started to sound more like ordinary consumer speakers?

My tweeters are not working in some Alesis bookshelf speakers. I bought new ones, put them in and they don't work either which tells me it could be the crossover? I'm a newbie, how do I test the crossover?

Why can't you play real instrumental music instead of that digital crap

My woofers had distortion. measured ohm's. were ok. removed the cone, a bit of smell on coil, but baked coil, didn't see. unwired first cooper wire, guess what, the second one was started to bake. 😄 Moral of the story? Always go for brand new speakers. you never know the condition they are inside.

Idiotic music

I old they are a AR-4XA woofer sound bad with high bass notes, but otherwise sounds good

I'm having the same identical sound problem with my Yorkville monitors. Thing is, after days or even weeks of the speaker staying on, the high-end will eventually return. But if I have to turn the speaker off and back on, the high-end is gone and I have to wait for it to come back. You're the first video that explained what I'm going through, now I know what I need to get repaired

Got a question. The whole assembly is called the driver but what you replaced is called the diaphragm?

I would actually like to see a better breakdown of the Chinese reproduction versus actual JBL. I recently came into a huge lot of JBL, wedges and Tops with a pair of JBL subs. Two of the tweeters on the main tops were completely blown, and for now, I was able to replace those tops with tweeters out of the wedges that I don’t necessarily need at the moment. Replacing the driver on a tweeter is a whole new concept to me because I’ve just never done it before. I would’ve replaced the magnet as well. I’m very curious to know if you did a video later showed the exact frequency differences from the Chinese tweeter to the JBL one.

Hey head restro, what if it is not the tweeter but the subwoofer, how do you fix that?.

Cek harga

Can’t the tube in the probe demodulate RF? Even if the switch is on Audio Frequency the tube is still active? And based on how the works doesn’t it not demodulate? I’m very curious about this!

Loved the video, thank you for it.

What is this the song that you used on the speakers?

I pocked up one of these at eBay for about $66 and it worked beautifully without anything need to be done to it. I dis open it and checked all the tubes except the one in the probe. I tested the filter caps and several power resistors again ok. So i fired it up and to my amazement it worked flawlessly. I cleaned up the switches and controls. The case needed cleaning , but didn’t look as nice as yours. My model was factory built , not a kit. I could tell because I worked in manufacturing and saw techniques a student wouldn’t know. Im going to experiment with building a solid state probe using a germanium diode. I also have an EICO signal tracer too that works basically good, but is no comparison the the Conar model. Good luck with yours!

The best signal tracer on the vintage market. Many of them were commercially factory wired.

A huge difference 😉

How de we turn it on tho