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Good work 👏

Where were our all this time ? Sorry it was I who was late. 😢

at 4:13 when you test the tool on thhe mystery metal, your whole tool holder moves considerably

A truly excellent solution. Nice video.

Great idea……I’m on it! You don’t try it you will never know!

Brilliant. I have a Colchester Chipmaster which is a rigid lathe but I have never succeeded at parting with it. No matter what I use - HSS or carbide, it would end in breaks or chipped inserts. I will be trying this for sure.

Thats NOT a parting tool.... A grooving tool, yes. Can be used as a parting tool for small diameters and even a turning tool if small cuts are taken. A parting tool it is not!!

I'm sure that works, but..... It's a one tool solution, when in reality all of your tools are being effected by the lack of rigidity.

I have the same issue. Thank you so much for sharing your solution to this problem. I’m going to do the same.

Thank you! I just broke another carbide and decided to see if anyone on youtube had a solution. Your solution is beautiful

thanks. stay away from Chinese parting tools is the first rule.

I implemented a version of your parting tool support thingy. Works really well, so thanks for sharing.

now THAT is perfect! i have the EXACT same issue! thank you sir!

Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work. I agree totally with your channel name. Good job

That was a great video. Simple solution to a perennial problem, presented very clearly. I will have to make one for my lathe! I also subscribed.👍👍

I just may do that, greetings from Canada.

what a great idea, looks like a great problem solver for my shaky compound slide...thank you, cheers from down in Florida, Paul

Bored to tears befoe1/3 of the way.BYE

An interrupts based program does not really work because there is overcounting if the pin stays low for some time. Instead there should be an explicit counting of pin transitions within the loop and resetting the count every so often (2000 msec or whatever is your favorite number of milliseconds). Correction: additional experiments showed that interrupts work fine if the sensor is placed correctly.

What a great project! I have an idea similar in concept but different in execution. I’m pretty well covered in the parting department as of last week but if and when boredom strikes I have another project :)

Great idea. Thanks for the video.

As i experienced in my chinese mini-lathe, after having broken a lot of parting-inserts, the goal is to use the tool upside down and - of course - opposit revolution direction. Using this configuration helps the chips falling down for gravity, so leaving the work free from them, allowing the insert to freely cutting. I have no risk of un-screwing the mandrel, as it is fixed to the lathe nose with three 6 mm screws and nuts ( 4 screws for 4 jaws mandrel ), the only risk is for the compound that could be snapped out, but only if too far much strenght would be applied ... ( i don't really fear of this chance ... ) Just three tips : 1 - be aware of construction steel, it is not so omogenous inside as silver steel or lead-steel can be, and so it gives variabile stress on the carbide tip, leading to broke it. So advance with hight attention ... 2 - if you hear a noise twistle, your tip is not cutting, but just touching your piece, this can lead to harden the piece, better have a bit heart and give a bit more turn of the knob. 3 - as i saw in many videos, enlarge the cut on both sides to give more space to the chips to fall down and get a more free space for the tip ... Using upside down tool and opposit direction, i was able ( this time using an HSS tool, 3,0 mm large, from Proxxon ) to part a 45 mm piece of steel ...

Interresting aproach! However, what's that on @4:12 ? the tool holder was not locked solid so it twisted, That way, the tool is not perpendicular to the workpeace.. Normally that's a recipe for disaster when parting off..

Thank you for you time to make the video. I can visualize what is going on when the code is running. What program do you us to run your cutter. Mack 3 or Mach 4?

Thank you. What a great idea. I am going to make one as soon as I can.

Thanks mister.

I'm trying to make a dro for my tailstock, so I can drill to depth accurately. I love this idea, and hope I can adapt it to my purpose. I've never used Arduino or a rotary encoder before, so not sure how far I will get.

I absolutely enjoyed this video. Thanks for the very awesome and informative content and keep it up!

Nice! 👍 Note that this approach relies heavily on belt tension and calibration which could make it a bit tedious to get it reading very accurate I think

If I apply the settings to my trimmer machine what should I do

This article was very detailed and useful for creating an Arduino controlled tachometer. Thank you!

Hello friend, what should be changed in the code to do this, for example, with an ILI9341 TFT Display? Thanks

You do not how you did well!! By watching your video , people don't need to did all that work that reach the final good result... Thanks for that you shared your experience❤

This is exactly what I was looking for. It's so brilliantly simple, Thank You

I'm old. My lathe is old and my tooling are old too. That's a great idea for QCTP but my old 4 way turret tool-post doesn't need it. For those hard to reach operations I still have my (even older) Lantern style TP. It and its tool-holders are plenty rigid and offer minimum overhang. Wakodahatchee Chris

Genius! I'm doing this now. Or tomorrow when I wake up. LOL

Cool! This is the kind of projects we need! Why buy when you can repurpose something else.

I signed up and like 138 ! 👏👏👏

That's a cool project. I'm glad my video and example code helped :)

I want to change my old treadmill to be responsive to pulse rate and to be programmable so I can customize my workouts. I can't find this feature in any treadmill under $1000.00. This would require a 5k chest belt, and a receiver that would replace the handles on most treadmills as running while holding on is NOT a good practice on a treadmill.

very much like my solution on my small lathe, i use a machinist jack, yours is more permanent and elegant

Thanks for the advise. I got mine to not break insert by basically backing the tool inside the 4 way tool post, but those without a 4 way toolpost can't do this, and the support really helps. I found the support size is critical, too little and it doesn't support, too much and it shifts the center point too high. Will need to make more than one, or have a way to adjust the length. Problem is these things are designed for CNC... where they're not oriented like a manual lathe but backwards (it means your took faces downwards, and the lathe turns backwards). Doing this somehow improves stiffness for some reason, and on a lighter lathe that can't use parting tool without chatter mounting it backwards can eliminate the chatter. If you look at every CNC lathe video you will know what I mean, the tool faces the wrong way compared to a manual lathe. Edit: Most parting tool holders sticks far too much out to use in a manual lathe, and was wondering perhaps you have to mill the quick change tool holder to allow you to back the insert holder inside the holder slot...

Interesting... ill give it a try. After I replace the tool holder. Last carbide tip mangled it on the way out

Hello sir, I have 0.5hp 3phase Ac motor and delta vfd - L serious how to connect pwm signal to vfd for variable speed change by mach3

This man out here doing God's work. Thank you!

Your channel deserves more subscribers. I really like the slideshow approach over videos. It's far easier to see the important details.

I'm a big advocate of really finding the true On Center measurement and using an Indicator to set your tool. I've done the usual Eye Ball, Ruler tricks but for "Has To Be Right On" nothing beats it.

Anything that improves a process has to be worth it's weight in gold......no matter what.

Saw some people ran the lathe in reverse with the parting tool upside down. Supposedly breakage can be mostly avoided.

I think it would have been much easier just to thread the bottom of the tool, and put a screw in it long enough to reach down to the bed of the cross slide, and used a nut to tighten it, Think it would have done the job?