If I make a video it might be a while I've been pretty busy lately. Always busy this time of year trying to get things done before winter. But I can give a description...I tried to kind of copy from pictures of the original tailgate. I noticed it appeared to use a torsion spring to make the tailgate spring back up after the bales are past it. So I did use a torsion spring but it didn't work out, wasn't the right kind or strong enough etc.it's still there but it doesn't do much. I ended up using an extension spring (actually 2 together to make one long spring) hooked on the top of the tailgate on one end then the other end attached to a turnbuckle for adjustment with the other end of the turnbuckle hooked on the top of the right side hold down bracket. The actual tailgate I used a 3/16 x 3 inch wide flat steel with an 1 1/2 inch angle welded on top for reinforcement. A short flat bar on each end welded to the long flat bar and with a 3/8 inch short pipe welded to the short bar to act as hinges and to add height to the tailgate. 3/8 inch bolts as hinge pins. I think the bolt holes were already there in the accumulator not 100 % sure about that. Actually I think I cut threaded rods to make the bolts so I could bolt them tight to the accumulator with two nuts one on the inside one on the outside.
I snapped a couple pictures of the tailgate right side I would just make the left side the same now if I had to do it over again as the torsion spring I put on the left side isn't really doing much not worth the trouble I think. Turns out I did use a long bolt not a threaded rod.Hope these links to the pics will work, may need to copy and paste them into a browser. i.imgur.com/ZuZXjoq.jpg i.imgur.com/lcVD5tf.jpg
Thank you for sharing. I'm about to start an F-100D restoration. Are you using the OEM hydraulic pump or have you converted to run off of a tractor remote?
Mine didn't have any hydraulic pump when I bought it I think the previous owner ran it off the tractor hydraulics. I bought it from a dealer though. I got a pump from surplus center and a tank from northern and rigged it up to run off the baler flywheel. They originally came with either a baler flywheel pump with the pump inside the hydraulic tank or with a tractor pto pump. But I guess you can run it off the tractor remote but I have no experience with that.
I have the OEM Baler flywheel pump but I'm wanting to use the tractor's remote. How did you go about sizing the pump you used? I don't know much about hydraulics. I'm concerned about under or oversizing the supply to the apron chain motor.
@@curtdealge6546 I don't know much about hydraulics either. I think I found online what size the original pump was, 13 gpm at 1500 psi I think. So I got one that was rated at 14.6 gpm at 1800 psi. The accumulator has a relief valve on the valve that is not adjustable which I think is set at 1500 psi. I really don't know how to figure out what is needed with a tractor remote. One of the reasons I guess I didn't try that. I was using a JD 3010 as a baler tractor at the time I got the accumulator. It has one set of remotes and is closed center hydraulic system so I have no idea if it would have ran the accumulator or not. Probably would have, would need to tie open the valve I assume.
@@curtdealge6546 Speaking of that hydraulic motor though that's the one problem I still have. I can't slow it down where it needs to be if I have to go slow baling because of big windrows. Therefore the bales bunch up when being deposited on the ground. I think either the speed control or the motor must be worn somehow where I can't slow it down enough. If I try to slow it down too much it will stop working completely. The only way is if I go faster which I do when possible and I have resorted to speeding up temporarily when I see it's getting ready to dump a bunch.
Thanks again for your input into this. After haying is done this year I'm going to take my accumulator and pump to a hydraulic shop to get it looked over. I need to get a proper hydraulic motor (for the apron chain) as mine is cracked. So I'll get everything looked over and hopefully I'll get the correct sized motor. If I knew how I'd reach out to you directly. Would be great to chat with you. I'll keep you posted and share my info. Thanks again.
I'm going to try and upload a video soon showing the modifications. Basically I just made a new bale chute and set it higher to allow the pushover bar to go underneath the oncoming bale. I added some steel flat bars to the pushover bar that stick out to block the oncoming bale from falling behind and getting caught behind the pushover bar when it's pushing over. Later I riveted some sheet metal to the top of the bars. I didn't weld the bars to the pushover bar I welded them to a bar I bolted to the pushover arm. Didn't even have to drill holes in the pushover bar used ones that were there. Lastly I riveted a piece of sheet metal to the top of the pressure plate to effectively extend it backwards because the push off bar used to sometimes stop before it cleared the bed.
Forgot, also had to change the front hold down because of the oncoming bale being higher up would hit the hold down bar. Not sure if the front hold down is even needed. The hold downs do seem to help keep the bales from sliding all over the place especially if you are on a side hill.
@@HockeyGoon939 No I don't. Occasionally something used will show up on ebay. I've used garage door springs to replace the main springs that retract the pushover arm. They work fine. Also used other generic springs to replace bad springs that were on it. A lot of stuff on it can be replaced with generic components. Mine did not come with a hydraulic pump so I got one from Surplus center and also got a hydraulic tank from Northern tool.
Would you be able to make a video of how you built the tailgate and how everything works on it? Thanks
If I make a video it might be a while I've been pretty busy lately. Always busy this time of year trying to get things done before winter. But I can give a description...I tried to kind of copy from pictures of the original tailgate. I noticed it appeared to use a torsion spring to make the tailgate spring back up after the bales are past it. So I did use a torsion spring but it didn't work out, wasn't the right kind or strong enough etc.it's still there but it doesn't do much. I ended up using an extension spring (actually 2 together to make one long spring) hooked on the top of the tailgate on one end then the other end attached to a turnbuckle for adjustment with the other end of the turnbuckle hooked on the top of the right side hold down bracket. The actual tailgate I used a 3/16 x 3 inch wide flat steel with an 1 1/2 inch angle welded on top for reinforcement. A short flat bar on each end welded to the long flat bar and with a 3/8 inch short pipe welded to the short bar to act as hinges and to add height to the tailgate. 3/8 inch bolts as hinge pins. I think the bolt holes were already there in the accumulator not 100 % sure about that. Actually I think I cut threaded rods to make the bolts so I could bolt them tight to the accumulator with two nuts one on the inside one on the outside.
I snapped a couple pictures of the tailgate right side I would just make the left side the same now if I had to do it over again as the torsion spring I put on the left side isn't really doing much not worth the trouble I think. Turns out I did use a long bolt not a threaded rod.Hope these links to the pics will work, may need to copy and paste them into a browser. i.imgur.com/ZuZXjoq.jpg i.imgur.com/lcVD5tf.jpg
Thank you for sharing. I'm about to start an F-100D restoration. Are you using the OEM hydraulic pump or have you converted to run off of a tractor remote?
Mine didn't have any hydraulic pump when I bought it I think the previous owner ran it off the tractor hydraulics. I bought it from a dealer though. I got a pump from surplus center and a tank from northern and rigged it up to run off the baler flywheel. They originally came with either a baler flywheel pump with the pump inside the hydraulic tank or with a tractor pto pump. But I guess you can run it off the tractor remote but I have no experience with that.
I have the OEM Baler flywheel pump but I'm wanting to use the tractor's remote. How did you go about sizing the pump you used? I don't know much about hydraulics. I'm concerned about under or oversizing the supply to the apron chain motor.
@@curtdealge6546 I don't know much about hydraulics either. I think I found online what size the original pump was, 13 gpm at 1500 psi I think. So I got one that was rated at 14.6 gpm at 1800 psi. The accumulator has a relief valve on the valve that is not adjustable which I think is set at 1500 psi. I really don't know how to figure out what is needed with a tractor remote. One of the reasons I guess I didn't try that. I was using a JD 3010 as a baler tractor at the time I got the accumulator. It has one set of remotes and is closed center hydraulic system so I have no idea if it would have ran the accumulator or not. Probably would have, would need to tie open the valve I assume.
@@curtdealge6546 Speaking of that hydraulic motor though that's the one problem I still have. I can't slow it down where it needs to be if I have to go slow baling because of big windrows. Therefore the bales bunch up when being deposited on the ground. I think either the speed control or the motor must be worn somehow where I can't slow it down enough. If I try to slow it down too much it will stop working completely. The only way is if I go faster which I do when possible and I have resorted to speeding up temporarily when I see it's getting ready to dump a bunch.
Thanks again for your input into this. After haying is done this year I'm going to take my accumulator and pump to a hydraulic shop to get it looked over. I need to get a proper hydraulic motor (for the apron chain) as mine is cracked. So I'll get everything looked over and hopefully I'll get the correct sized motor. If I knew how I'd reach out to you directly. Would be great to chat with you. I'll keep you posted and share my info. Thanks again.
more pictures of your modication please
I'm going to try and upload a video soon showing the modifications. Basically I just made a new bale chute and set it higher to allow the pushover bar to go underneath the oncoming bale. I added some steel flat bars to the pushover bar that stick out to block the oncoming bale from falling behind and getting caught behind the pushover bar when it's pushing over. Later I riveted some sheet metal to the top of the bars. I didn't weld the bars to the pushover bar I welded them to a bar I bolted to the pushover arm. Didn't even have to drill holes in the pushover bar used ones that were there. Lastly I riveted a piece of sheet metal to the top of the pressure plate to effectively extend it backwards because the push off bar used to sometimes stop before it cleared the bed.
Forgot, also had to change the front hold down because of the oncoming bale being higher up would hit the hold down bar. Not sure if the front hold down is even needed. The hold downs do seem to help keep the bales from sliding all over the place especially if you are on a side hill.
thanks ill be looking for your vidio
Know anyone that sells parts (new used) for the Farmhand accumulators?
@@HockeyGoon939 No I don't. Occasionally something used will show up on ebay. I've used garage door springs to replace the main springs that retract the pushover arm. They work fine. Also used other generic springs to replace bad springs that were on it. A lot of stuff on it can be replaced with generic components. Mine did not come with a hydraulic pump so I got one from Surplus center and also got a hydraulic tank from Northern tool.