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you could probably machine some steel bars/caps to fit through the roll pins to reduce the play and help keep the trolley assembly centered, but this will of course result in wear and inevitable failure of the strut itself. teflon/nylon end caps would provide similar surface friction characteristics as steel and would avoid premature failure of the strut but would be a wear item that required regular inspection and frequent replacement. i wouldn't operate a theme park this way, but for some infrequent backyard fun or utilitarian usage you could make u-strut work.

Don't b skeert

naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Same stuff, mate, this is one of the channel trolleys for P1000 and friends Unistrut channel (and clones from other manufacturers). P1000 is in the video. Acceptable slop for hanging a barn door, etc., but a bit too much for what I wanted to do. Documenting here because it's not documented elsewhere (Unistrut's datasheet is more like a sketch on the back of a beermat).

Yes, I reckon these would be a good choice, depending on speed. These are the trolleys with the highest available load rating - 2.7kN (270kg) at 0.15m/s or 1.3kN (130kg) at 0.9m/s. 100lb is about 50kg, so you're well within these (asssuming one bucket per trolley), your load is a lot less than these ratings, so they can probably go a bit quicker. Also, since it's Unistrut, it will be very easy to build an adjustable structure. You can get various hinges and adjustable angle plates that will help with the job.

Agreed - these work well for hanging doors. I wanted to know whether they would work in a more demanding, vertical, application, which requires some knowledge of the tolerance / slop in the vertical axes. The manufacturers do not specify this information - hence I had to buy, measure, and return the parts. I made this video as a record; perhaps the information might help someone else.

You should have seen the other takes :D

wow some brits are class A whingers. video seems fine to me, showed me everything i was looking to know. thanks Jeff!

hehe cheers Mike, glad you found a way to make it through :D

Man, I bet you felt better getting that off your chest, yeh?

Second. Plus the mumbling as well as the rambling did not work for me. I wear hearing aids and this was excessively difficult. The calipers got my hopes up but...

3.5 minutes in and no mention of sloppiness.

Finally, sloppy all around. Seems like the trolley is wrong size. Is there a larger One?

Crazy glue some tephlon pads to the side of it .... to make it “ less stothie “..... Blimey

That's interesting. These are the most expensive ones from Unistrut with the highest load ratings - can you link me to some from another manufacturer? I am not interested in adding sliding elements as this is a relatively high duty cycle application, so they will wear. Also it's a lot of work!

Hehe, life ain't that easy, I'm afraid. @@michaelwells7348

Yes, i think there are some ways it could be improved. John, below, suggested some PTFE blocks to take up the sideways slop. By the time you add some workarounds, though, I think it's worth just designing a better system. If funds permit, of course, it's probably better to just buy an off-the-shelf linear guideway system. The next step up in performance and price would probably be a "track roller" system, with ball-bearing race carriages running in rolled steel or extruded aluminium track. There are several manufacturers of this stuff - e.g. Thomas Regout FlexFit. For short distances, unsupported round ground linear shafting with recirculating ball bearing bushes can also be pretty cheap.

I think I was trying to say "cable trays", but yeah, also trunking.