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@@Daxbehne are you talking about the rebuild of the motor?

@@donf3739 oh gee thanks

@@nathantarver7131 you are welcome

@@jdprice3043 you are welcome

I usually stop about .004 away from final size.

Well I didn’t have to because the flywheels were the same flywheel other than one having a ring gear. I try to cover all the points but I do miss some

Sorry I probably could have started it. It’s pretty straightforward once you get it all together. It will act like a regular electric start engine minus the luxury of a key switch starting system

That’s great. Glad I could help

Use a typical business card, don't ya just love the YT clips that give you virtually NO or NOT enough info?

Yes the engine has to come off to split the case to be able to get to the rod and the cylinder head has to come off. One thing to look at before you pull the engine is to pull the head and make sure the head gasket isn’t blown.

@@oldschoolmechanic7771 alright thanks for that👍

Thank you I appreciate it

Yes they can tear things up. Check your valve settings. They could have to much clearance between the rocker arm and the top of the valve cap causing that kick back. Should be set at .005 on both valves.

There is no adjustment possible to decrease the excess valve lash on the opposed twin flathead.

Ah thought you were working on an over head valve.

@@oldschoolmechanic7771 It's too bad there wasn't provision in the design to be able to use shims for adjustment. Seems like it ought to have been a no brainer

I agree. Only way to get closer clearances other than some in depth modifications is to get new valves

Thank you watching. I’m glad it helped

Problem would be if the snowblower has a ring gear on the flywheel. If it does then there would be a way to do it because then it had the option when it was new. If not then you could do some research to see if that model number of engine came out with a starter option then you would have to change the flywheel and find a starter just like the video. I hope you understand what I saying. If not you could call me during the daytime and I could explain it better. 316 312 8704

You can use either one of the small posts as ground on the solenoid as long as it is not on the same post as the power wire to engage the solenoid

It’s not a final bore. Just seeing where I’m at to order the right parts

Modern Briggs engines run in a clockwise direction. I’m trying to remember if I ever recall of one turning in the opposite direction. I have seen starters turn backwards because of the posts on the battery being hooked up backwards. You can possibly turn the casing of the starter to point in the opposite direction where the gear would be on the opposite end. Hope that makes sense

The casings I've seen will only fit one way. There is a notch on the bottom where the brush plate wire terminal fits. 😮 😊

Not quite for sure what you mean by tipping the head over, but I always looking but better ways to do it. Thanks for boring comment

What is the model number you are working on

+1

The two small terminals are for engaging the solenoid. One wire will carry power from the key switch to one of the terminals. It doesn’t matter which side it goes on. The other wire is a ground wire and serves as a safety switch and has to be grounded to make the switch work

You are welcome. The starter will most likely spin backwards

Yes the blue wire is coming from the switch and it throws power when the key is turned to the start position. The other is a ground wire and is basically another safety. Thank you for watching

@@oldschoolmechanic7771 thanks, so I'm guessing the blue wire would go to the "S" pole on the switch, meaning solenoid? I'm repairing a beautiful 1971 simplicity broadmoor 😄

Yes it should be going to the S One of the old simplicity’s nice. Interesting how the old ones were made

Thank you. Sorry I don’t always see the messages. I hope I was able to help

You are welcome. The mill is from harbor freight. Not my first choice but it works pretty good. At the time it was $1800 new. Works good to surface heads.

Either going to be 3/8 or a 7/16. Occasionally you might see a 10 mm and sometimes they will have a nut on the underneath side

Sorry I don’t know the language

​@oldschoolmechanic7771 where do the blue wires come from? Where do the green wires come from?

That solenoid was out in the open. Your edge solenoid should be on the back side of the battery between the motor and the battery Could be tucked back underneath a little bit. Locate the battery and solenoid should be close by

Mine is under my seat under the frame so hard to get to follow the red wire from battery

Not sure why they do things like that. Guess they don’t want you to work on it

​@suzieq8379 mine too,all the safety switches been disconnected or bypassed.I The wiring is a mess. Need an easy access door in the back.

@@DanielJensen-lp1jp uggh that is never a good thing. Trying to figure out what someone else has done sucks

You are welcome glad I could help

Make sure you have your pushrod seated inside of the lifter you can shine a flashlight in there to make sure it’s seated. The only other thing you could possibly be would be a flat Camshaft.

Thank you. Always something new to learn with machining

Thank you for watching. I actually just put the booster pack straight to the starter. I didn’t do any wiring on this one as far as key switch, starter solenoid, battery.

@@oldschoolmechanic7771 Thanks Brother! I have a 13.5 hp woodsplitter and when you pull the cord it sometimes snatches back - trying to break my wrist!!!! Needs a starter bad! 🤣

Sorry for not responding about pulling the rope out of your hand I’ve had a busy summer. You might check your fly wheel key to see if it’s sheer that could be causing the kickback. Another trick you can try is try not to start the motor in between the compression stroke pull on the rope until you feel the resistance and then pull through it If that makes sense

It is a kwik way copy. Think the cutter arbor hole is different

@@oldschoolmechanic7771 Yes, the tool holder and plunger are different. Is micrometer the same on this machine you have.

This one is in metric readings

The ring gear doesn’t have a part number. It comes with the flywheel but you can find a junked out Briggs and the flywheel ring will come off and will fit on what you have. A 12 hp or a 14.5 hp. I do believe even a vtwin ring gear will work too

Don’t know I’ll have to listen again

Not your imagination - there’s some kind of audio playing in the background.

You're just going crazy it's the voices in your head😮

I definitely heard noise in the background as well

same here

The top of the valve stem where the retainer went on broke. the valve dropped and the piston pushed it back up so that’s what was hitting the piston. I have also seen carburetor butterfly screws come loose and get sucked into the cylinder and bounces around on top of the piston and then eventually goes out the exhaust

@@oldschoolmechanic7771 thanks

You are welcome

I will do some checking. I can tell you that you can find a another used overhead flywheel from a 10 to a 14.5 hp Briggs and the ring gear can be removed and installed on that flywheel that you have as well

Just the info I needed.... thank you sir. YEP, i'm about done with plastic pawls.... @@oldschoolmechanic7771

Hopefully it helped

Glad you found it to be beneficial. Thanks for the comment

Sorry about that. I try to remember all the little things. There should be a small dot on the cam and a spot on the crankshaft gear. Just line the two spots up and you are good

The motor I was working on have a oil pump system in it so the motor is supplied with oil from that oil pump. The motor you are working on might be a later model and doesn’t have an oil hole. If you have a oil pump system on yours that Rod should be fine