Видео

@@Official__RILO yeah, now when I look back it was a big mistake 😊

I'm sourcing some parts from the UK right now . It seems they were quite popular over there!

@fatcartmanPL yes more sellers i guess. At the 2023 national alfa day there was only one 80s guilietta. Excellent driving car well done for saving your car

@@vanlifenomad why is it that everyone keeps telling me that it's a great handling car, back then and even today. Yet I never had a chance to drive mine and it will take a lot of time until I actually do... So unfair. I haven't even seen any 80s Alfas where I live, maybe one gtv a looong time ago. Mine's gonna be red too 😊

@@brich2929 thanks!

Poki co do tej klasy jeszcze daleko. Ale im bardziej w las tym jest ciekawiej. 😊

But the Eiffel Tower is French 😊

@@fatcartmanPL yup but only a alfa was deliverd standard new with the option rust

@@giuliettaevo not saved yet. We'll see how it goes, but I'm must say I'm making good progress. Gotta get round to editing for the next part. I've never had a chance to drive it and honestly I can't wait. If you've got two projects then why not post some videos? 😊. Any sort of information on these Alfas is few and far between. I had to learn some Italian to actually work on that one. Hugely underrated car.

@@adamkosinski5992hmmm co masz na myśli? rzędowa to ona jest. Rzędowa czwórka 😊

@@fatcartmanPL jeśli to ta z ogłoszenia OLX to sprzedający wspominał, że pojazd był albo z korpusu dyplomatycznego albo z rządu. Już teraz nie pamiętam. ;)

A czekaj czekaj.. Było coś takiego.. Sprzedającego to ja na oczy nie widziałem, 'obejrzałem' auto na podstawie 4 zdjęć i pojechała laweta 😊 ale coś wspominał przez telefon chyba o jakiejś ambasadzie... Znaczy ja takie historie wkładam między krolewne Śnieżkę a Kubusia Puchatka. Auto było sprzedane w Niemczech i wjechalo do Polski w latach 90tych. Pojezdzilo trochę i od około 2000 roku stało nieużywane. Poza tym Giulietta w ambasadzie? Czemu nie Alfetta.. W końcu to limuzyna. Biorąc pod uwagę że auto kupiłem chyba 3 lata temu to podziwiam Twoją pamięć 😊😊

@@nunesaf yeah that screen. I did every single thing to save it, soaked in oils, wiggled around to break the seals loose. Yet, it still cracked. Good news I found another already

@@chrisgray4651 I have tons of work before I actually drive mine.

@fatcartmanPL they are a great driving car when set up right, and that 2.0 litre is a good powerful engine, used to eat Golf GTI and escort XR3's for breakfast.😀

@@chrisgray4651 I heard so 😊 Looking forward to driving it. So far I'm going to amend as many weak points of the car as possible. We'll see how it goes.

@fatcartmanPL good lad! They are an under valued 80's classic.

Yeah. A shame really. But honestly I applied so little force that it was just bound to happen I guess. I still have to remove the rear one 😊

The windscreen is laminated (ie 2 thin slices of glass) hence more delicate than the rear (tempered). Anyway, the method pushing the screen in one go is quite demanding. Well, not many videos to explain but this one is an example ruclips.net/video/_aSvT3fsZes/видео.htmlsi=xfK4Q334BULHqgUe Fingers crossed!

Even the Haynes manual mentions the feet push method as the recommended one 😊 anyway, I'm planing to use this car as a daily in summer and I'm seriously considering getting rid of the rubber seals altogether and just gluing the glass in.

Indeed, Haynes says that assuming that the seals are good. With the age they become harder. The better technique I have pointed out may be not enough! In addition I apply glicerine a few days before and push the glass out (only a bit and every now and then) to break the bonding which eventually takes place. Another thing I do is to insert a 2 wire insulated cable underneath the outer lip of the seal so that the starting point of the process provides some more room to slip in the inner lip of the seal! As for glueing..I am not sure if there is enough steel surface to land the screen.. That Alfa in that colour is quite lovely!!

I applied half a can of penetrating oil in a dwo day intervals one week before attempting to take it out. Yet, it still cracked 🙁 good tip with the wire. Gonna try it with the rear. I know there is probably not enough metal to glue it but I might as well make it as I have a lot of welding to do anyway. I can't imagine replacing this screen again in the future in case it cracks because of a stone chip or something...

Where's the video? 😉

I'm trying different options. So far so good. Thanks!

Glad to hear from an actual owner. This car is completely unheard of in the place where I live. Most people say it's a Fiat Tempra when I show them the photos. I have never seen even one 116 Giulietta or Alfetta on the road here. I know of only one other example somewhere down south. My plan is to rebuild every component of the car, as far as I can .I already got new clutch and brake hoses. BTW Is there any way to disengage the clutch with the clutch cylinder busted? I've got the Haynes manual for the Alfetta and another manual for the 75. They seem to cover most of the jobs. I would gladly have that spare parts catalogue. I'm slowly learning Italian, but I'm struggling to source some of the parts. Thanks a lot for the comment!

You can disengage the clutch by removing the cover off the gearbox at the back and take​clutch pack out as you will probably be replacing clutch anyway, or you can remove propshaft as another option. I presume you are trying to get the car rolling freely at the rear wheels?@@fatcartmanPL

@@michaelmccann4706 the whole transaxle is out already and I'm rebuilding it so we can say I solved the problem :) thanks for the tip. still thinking whether to replace the clutch or not.

Were they really so badly rusted when relatively new? A lot of people seem to complain about rust on these cars. Surprisingly mine is not as bad and I'm wondering whether it's an exception or not 😊 rosso amaranto is one of the colors I'm considering for this one!

@fatcartmanPL My dad had Alfas from the mid 70's until the 159 ran out. Everything from Giulia Super, every type of Alfetta except the coupes. He changed cars about every 3-4 years. Although we have salted roads in winter. He and I only remember one rust repair on a face-lift Alfetta, the front sill rusted, where it meets the wheel arch developed in the 3rd year/winter. My dad says he never had a car with a sun roof, which kills a lot of sills and floors as the drainage wasn't ideal. All 70's cars rusted more than modern cars, not only Italian ones. In italy, it partly had to do with steel from the Soviet Union that had an unususlly high copper content.

Wow. A great story! I would love to get my hands on a Giulia Super. Love that body style. My first Alfa was and is in fact my 2015 Giulietta which I use as a daily. About that Soviet steel - most info, even here on RUclips suggests this being a completely fake story. The Italian government seemingly had plenty of steel at hand to sell/donate to Alfa. They wouldn't have had any real benefit in importing any. Hard to say. All in all, Alfa got a reputation of making rusty and unreliable money pits. Unfair.

@@fatcartmanPL Fiat built the Lada factory in Toligstatt. As far as I know, my uncle worked for Steyr-Fiat in Graz Austria at the time, Fiat and so the majority stake holder the Italian state were paid in raw materials for that deal. Oil, coal, chrome, steel.... It could of course be an excuse, Turin came up with....

@@fatcartmanPL the Alfa Sud really damaged Alfas reputation most. The unpainted bodies were stored next to the sea at Alfas new Napoli plant. A strike happened and production got halted, the bodies developed surface rust that wasn't dealt with properly and were then simply painted. Apparently some of them were already rusting when delivered.

Yeah. It's been awhile, but I had to find another interesting car. Time to get back to work it seems.

@@pawestempien2094 dimer 1:3 😱

Right now it's not cool at all 😉

Sadly, many cars makers are going the wrong way nowadays.. Mine was assembled in Belgium, but I believe the engines were still made in Sweden at that time, at least the 2.4. There are odds that I've got something you put into the engine 😊

@@arthurportman4254 depends on the condition really . Valve bodies and solenoids are the obvious weak spots with the torque converter being the close third. Regular oil changes are key. Shift flares, hesitation or rough shifts especially 2-3 indicate clogged solenoids. Poor or delayed garage shifts (P-N-D) indicate low line pressure that can be either solenoids or worn valve body pistons or both . These boxes last long if taken care of. Solenoids or valve body can be cleaned or refurbished without removing or dropping the subframe as the internet suggests. Just did mine last week. 5 hour job tops with basic hand tools and a bit of patience.

@@croooaaalagraula yeah, 'the Sun always shines on TV' as they say. Anyhow, compared to the project that I'm working on now the Volvo was a breeze 😊😊

wow, they are intersting auto's but beautiful is def not what they look like in normal car design and beauty terms. They appear like a bus in many ways or a combining of retro with roundy /jellybean aspects. Beauty doesn't come to mind

I like the P1 a bit more 😊

Good for another 500000 miles if you maintain it properly 😊

I also regret not dealing with the torque converter while I was at it... But.. So far so good 😊

Yes, fast and well handling wagons are very close to being the ultimate car. Practical, not as big as an SUV with much better handling and dynamics. And lower maintenance costs.

Go for it, and make a video 😊

What makes you think it's Germany???? 😊😊

@@fatcartmanPL Guten Morgen, dienJäuser Straßen Bodenbelag😂😂ich bin felsenfest überzeugt, das Vid ist in D gedreht worden

And I'm glad you did. Cheers. 😊

@@fatcartmanPL there's something about restorations like this 👍

..and the sore muscles 😊

@@fatcartmanPLit beats going to the gym 😂

@@brunocerous not so sure.. So far during all that years of wrenching I haven't built any considerable muscle hahaha

Hahaha would never give her away.. The car I mean. Wife too 😊

Sand with a coarse paper, fiber disc etc until you see shiny metal with only slight rust pitting. Hammer on it gently to check structural integrity. If you hammer into a hole or the metal gives slightly cut out and weld. If the metal is fine use a rust converter. I used cortanin and app r-stop. A tried and true polish combo. You can use anything like that. Give it time to work. Then epoxy 2k primer. It has to be 2k to bond better. Preferably applied with a paint brush for better penetration best used wet on wet with the epoxy. Check your epoxy label if it can be used that way. Then any automotive paint that sticks. 2-3 coats. The real rust protection is actually paint. I also put some cavity wax onto the top of the strut mount and the body.

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation! superb@@fatcartmanPL

Not really. Engine mounts are easy to reach. A few screws to separate the gearbox and you're done. Watch the flywheel position sensor. It's right above the place where the cases split. It can break on disassembly.

Oh that V70 is a tank. I had a while to study the way it's build and honestly when you look at the beams, metal molds, frame it's built extremely strong. Frankly I had never seen anything as strong as this.