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@@bashmasterRC if I’m not mistaken I used a wrench through the wheel well in combination with a ratcheting wrench

@@josephruthenberg9185 wrong Northstar is better

@@slimbruh part of it yes, I installed main studs too but what you see here is SureGrip studs. Part of the bulletproof kit.

@@kieferregan9409 Yes

youd be better driving off as is, id only recommend it for under 150k. kits can be expensive, doing it on a higher mileage northstar could have more problems than a headgasket.

If you want to redo a high mileage Northstar you wanna inspect everything and most likely have the rings done and all the bearings which includes machining stuff, I did my engine at 167k

You’ll be alright and it’s a long term solution if you use studs and MLS gaskets

@@troykeown771 Maybe these wires? What’s the problem with it now? No crank no start or crank no start?

@@MB031 I don’t recall the exact miles but I know it was pretty high miles like over 150k

@@MB031 with the vehicle safely lifted and supported I had a helper shake the wheel side to side as if checking the tierods and I was watching the movement

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair thanks for answer. My GMC has 66K miles and pulling right, it might be it, I need to check.

@@MB031 you’re welcome

​@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair still cracks me up to here high mileage and 15k together. My 08 has 305k and running strong.

Very bad

@@JackobyBurrell wow, yeah mine was leaking everywhere too lol

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair lol

@@shawngibbs7939 complete trash with the open diff

@@gonzalopantoja2276 Thanks, I did

@@vicarod That fixed the problem? I know another issue is no heat/A/C coming from the front vents, is usually when the vacuum line under the hood goes bad or isn’t connected, but if this helped to fix the issue glad to help.

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair Yeah. I manually moved the door until the actuators are delivered. I think they've been broken a while. It was my neighbors car, and we bought it when he passed for our 16 y/o

@@vicarod Good cars as long as they’re taken care of. I have a ‘97 and my brother does too.

@@outcome2715 yeah it most likely is the slide pins/caliper bracket, if it continues being an issue next step is checking the brake hose and caliper, cracking the bleeder open would see if the hose is bad if no brake fluid comes out or if it sprays out after pumping it up a little. Not sure your experience level but that’s what I would do

@@Meoffjackk01 Common issue with these cars. Can’t come to me at the moment but it’s something to do with the park release with the shifter and that button also, might have a spring in there. Mine had the same issue.

I figured it out after I replaced the plug in it still did it. I looked and the metal piece is bent so it's grabbing on that plastic piece and not letting it come up. I can manually pull it up but it's hard and the key comes out. What is the metal piece called with the plastic piece in it? ​@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair

@@Meoffjackk01 Ahh, the part the shifter slides over? I’d say, shifter rod?

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair yes, I replaced the plug that goes to the solenoid, fixed another problem I had but kinda tied to this problem as well. So I got to looking and it's bent just the tiniest but. It don't take much it must be a tight fit with the plastic being in there. I can manually pull it up with pliers and it lets me take the key out and everything is good. I can put it in drive just fine after I manually reset it but I gotta reset it every time to take the key out. I couldn't find this problem anywhere else they all said change the solenoid, or the plug. Which I did the plug. But I did remember slamming it thing to fix the other problem so I guess I deserve it lol

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair yeah, and that makes sense. I think I'll try to bend it back, seems like an awkward part to ask for lmao not many people probably don't bend these to often

@@JaysonHayes-on6bh thank you

Let me know how this goes! If not I have a video or two on replacing the blend door actuators, there’s two, usually on the passenger side one behind the glove box and one below it accessible from below

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair hey! Do not YM hvac class today I tested my A/c system and it was fine but you were right! My line snapped in two and also the bigger hose connected to the T fitting was so deteriorated. Replaced all of that and worked wonderfully! So thank you! I found out where to look bc of your video

@@ajmoon4891 awesome! Glad to know it fixed your issue!

Lol that’s wild…good deal for someone who can fix it

Even better Northstar Performance, better than ARP

Almost seems like the vent isn’t opening all the way, if it was it would be cold. Either another bad blend door or the switch for the driver side is an issue.

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair Neither, was low on refrigerant. 30$ walmart refill kit fixed the issue.

@@CastBlastCamp was just gonna tell you that. ha

У моей компании есть четыре одинаковых вилочных погрузчика, только у одного остался оригинальный двигатель. Остальные трое находятся на третьем или четвертом двигателе соответственно. Всего одиннадцать грузовиков, и все они были заброшены, пока меня не наняли. 😂 P.S. Google translate, I only know like three words in Russian, hopefully this translates correctly

It was pretty gross

😂

Keep up the good work!

@@Payday-oh6iqmore videos to come!

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair im subbed so ill definitely check em out!!

Tried getting away reusing my caliper bracket after brake job, only for it to seize on me anyways

Although I went to school for auto repair this was technically my biggest solo job, just watching RUclips videos. I’ve already driven my car 13,000mi since this repair and no issues. It’s really not bad, lot of info online to consult to. I was surprised because everybody hyped this up as a horrible job and it’s really not

@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair I’ll have to look into it, Im assuming you dropped the subframe out instead of trying to lift the engine out? If thats the case I would need to find someone with access to a lift. I would like this engine to survive for decades from now since I dont plan on getting rid of this car anytime soon. Eventually all of these non studded northstars will end up in a garbage pile and there will only be the studded handful left making them rare. The car drives great, sounds great, and so far has treated me well so down the line I’d be willing to put the time and money into it to make it last a lifetime, the way it should have been in 1993.

@@MorbidMansion I pulled my engine out of the top, easier. The spare engine I dropped the subframe at my tech school shop, might have a hard time if the subframe bolts snap in the body. Not bad to do it from the top

lol

Very similar process, and the kit can be found from the company Northstar Performance out of Canada.

Not too bad, best to have an impact for those bolts, battery or electric, by hand tool method will work too. Might be a challenge lining up the bolt holes on the new ones, but it’s possible to do, a jack, hammer and pry bars and screw drivers make it better

Good intentions but the engineers must’ve been drunk not to realize the coolant would’ve caused corrosion with the steel bolts and aluminum, and a half case? Stupid design I’ll agree. Although these are very easy to work on.

No noise

How to really know if the manifold failed? Is it visual cues? Because I have a '97 LeSabre with about 55k miles and I just want to be on guard to mitigate any potential catastrophic damage

Hard to hold the camera/phone while doing the work, next time I’ll be wearing a GoPro or have someone filming

That’s what they’re technically called, torque strut mounts.