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Finally someone doing this right and cooling it before going in the tank

Looks great!

Sweet

Great progress guys! Unity and peace . . . that is the most important thing for us!

Your timing belt is off , so you're valves are hitting the pistons

When loading up the weight, listen to any bad noises. 😁

after welding in the tower support can you remove the export braces

There you are! I was so glad to turn on RUclips today and see you two were back at it! I so appreciate the attention to detail in your videos. Vw people know that it goes far beyond just making it right when you repair and restore something. We know that it is the special love we have for these quirky little cars that makes us do what we do. I thank you both for saving another one and making the process so fun to watch! BTW, I'm working on a convertible beetle as well. A 68.😊

Still helping people with this video. Thank you sir!

Back at you Doug! Still watching. My favorites are the pinhead welds so keep em coming!

Lookin' great guys!!

Interesting take. But yes, to get the full benefit i would think turn it upright and make the heat exchanger further away from the head. Then auto drains at the bottom. Im building one now. Thx

Remove the welds and dolly slapper. This will help get the metal go to its original place. Also for butt weld i learned tig weld and help on preventing metal shrink compared to mog

I just made this repair to my daughter's '03 Forrester yesterday and this video was a welcome intro into the subject. It was a great confidence booster knowing what to expect when I started taking things apart! I have a few tips for anybody who wants to try this . . . 1) See my other comment below on how to open the hatch if it is stuck closed. 2) By removing the 3 bolts holding the rear wiper assembly, you can pivot the whole assembly a few degrees to gain access to all the nuts that it normally blocks - no wobbly socket needed! 3) Rather than replacing the pin with another rust-prone steel pin, I used long stainless steel machine screws and joined them in the middle with a threaded brass standoff. This method is helpful if you don't have access to a welder. Pan head screws are good, either #8-32 or 4mm. It may be necessary to order the screws oversized and trim them. Be careful that the standoff isn't too big in diameter as there is limited space for it. Lowes or Home Depot won't have everything you need, but parts can be ordered from McMaster Carr or maybe Grainger. These screws can't be tightened without binding up the handle (the very thing we're trying to fix!), so I used heavy-duty Loctite (red) on the threads and just tightened the screws enough to take up the slack. 4) My Dremel with an HD cutoff wheel was super handy for removing the thick rust from the bracket, grinding off the end of the rivet and cutting the new screws to size. 5) I coated all of the previously rusty surfaces with silicone grease, which my gut says is more weather resistant than petroleum or lithium grease.

A Grinder out East is so much taster than in Michigan 😂

Good job.

These bugs are cute... but I found your channel with your Mustang build - so I haven't really kept up with the Bug except every once in a while. Sorry about that. I did notice your hiatus... and I'm glad you are back. You are making good progress with this cute little car... and thank you for sharing this project with us.

Good to see you back at it. I certainly understand the pause(s) . Been working on mine about 4 years, it’s been on the back burner many times, but finally got down to just the top replacement, which I’m not looking forward to. Got the interior done using seats from my poor old oxidized 92 GMC. Really turned out great. I’ll send some pictures if You like. Now , what’s this about finding a body/ paint guy? That’s just plain cheating. 😂😂👍👍

Were not interested in your mustang, just show us your air dryer.

Great Video! I am just watching this again as I am getting ready to start on my Daughters 2013 Passat. I'm not sure if you are aware but the Triple Square bolts are one time use bolts and should be replaced when this job is done. I've dont a lot of work on my daughters car and there a lot of one time use bolts on this Passat. The crankshaft pulley bolt is one of them. I couldn't get a full 90 degree turn on it after I torqued it to spec. If I could have gotten a 3 foot cheater bar on the wrench I probably could have. If it was on a lift that is, instead of on jack stands.

Tried this did not work 😅

Kick ass!

What type of scotch Brite did you use to clean block surface?

the car of my dream that will never come true😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢

my dream car😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢

it is the most beautiful car in the world 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍

Had the same issue, this video will help a lot. Thank you so much

Please tell me the name of the bolts and the size for the oil cooler!!! Someone told me they are XZN triple square sockets, but I can’t find them anywhere. I really need help please respond asap!!! I need to get my car running again.

Drilling holes in it. Dummy

I think I like the way you had it the first time. Seems like you are pulling dry air off the sump for the wet air. Also where is the valve for the drain at the bottom?

Great video, exactly what I was looking to know. Just wanna ask, the dorman element still working well?

400 kg = 882 pond

I need to replace the firewall and a front frame rail. Could you make a suggestion on which one I should start with first?

You could use three 4x4s to make it safer and stronger. Like a crane on each end and in middle just the support when lifting middle one can be moved as needed the house I beam supports are designed for down weight not under pulling . better safe then get hurt.

Where did you get the new oil filter housing?

Are you polishing it out?

I posted a message to VEVOR asking if i can extend the power cord. There answer "we do not recommend that you lengthen the power cord as it will affect the motor performance". I`m going to have to extend it regardless, what gauge wire did you use ? Did you make it or did it come in a length with plug? Thanks.

you are doing quite well with fluxcore stick with it and one day soon it will come right and that day you will think to yourself ...... do i need gas

So when the clutch is disengaged, What's there as a stopping or break mechanism for the load not to fall while lowering?? Could you please help me with that.

Put seam sealer the welds you’ll never tell

Great video.

Great job! Thanks for sharing your painting adventure. 99% of the rv painting advise out there says sand vs strip the paint. If you were going to repaint instead of going to the metal, would you still strip the paint and repaint or just rough sand and paint over the old paint? I have a 30ft vintage aluminum Avion that is still silver, as the original looked, but it's been painted silver on top of the aluminum, is flaking and looks terrible. At first the thought of painting it myself was overwhelming, but after talking to several painters and watching many instructional videos, I think I could do it as long as I had confidence in the correct process and had the right materials. Sherman Williams told me to sand, prime with their special metal primer and paint with their special metal paint. So that's been on the back burner for a year as I keep revisiting what to do as more and more paint keeps flaking off. Then today I learned about the option of stripping the paint to bare metal and then saw your compelling video of how effectively the paint can actually come off with stripper. That seems way easier than prep sanding with an orbital sander, but maybe not as I've never done either. Sanding is messy, dusty, vs stripping is goopy messy. And after seeing your video, I can't help but wonder what the original aluminum looks like under this crappy paint. If its in good shape I may not even need to paint. But then again if it was in good shape why would someone have painted over it?! Thanks for any advice.

I have a similar situation. It’s like the shock tower needs to be pushed out about 1/2 .

Nice job God bless thanks

U cut part of the process out u show putting the hose down under then u show it connected. U don't say anything if u have to cut anything

Get new ones 😂

You could use lead melting and then sand it down it ez

You could weld a skeleton in the in side and make it so close the outside welds wont push back and skeleton will stop the worp and the patch is supported they make a air tool that make a over lap in metal so less worp

Why do you keep going over it weld long winded

Motor guard.... The inside of the filter roll as a plastic roll....must be removed before inserting it? Thank you