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08:17 a scungent tool? or scunchant? I couldnt find anything on google near those names.

Hey I have a 66 mustang and I need help with a few things would love some advise please let me know thank u

I checked this out, thinking I might need it, but ultimately did not. I applied a lot of penetrating lubricant to the bolts before starting the job, including shooting it through the little hole in the frame, and very gradually took out the bolts using a breaker bar, occasionally going in a bit, then out more.

Good job, i braced my convert before i did door alignment it work for me

I've got on question I've removed the body from pan and disconnected everything so can I pull the motor and transmission all as one part? I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. It's a 69

Just replace the whole bottom luggage

After watching several videos of shop air set up and proper air compressor usage/maintenance I’m sold on your method of cooling the air before going into the air tank. I remember growing up how much water our compressor would accumulate. And it was always rusty, so we knew our tank was dirty. I think the only two things I’m going to different is add a desiccant air filter coming out of the copper cooling lines prior to entering the tank (for just more added extraction) and my lines will be simple so using copper throughout wont be too cost prohibitive. Thanks for the great ideas.

That really sucks.

He then drags it out. 😂

Nice work! I'll be starting on the tray on my '71 Vert, but unfortunately, most of the horizontal surface is total trash. I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the entire piece...

NEW Subscriber!! Love the build and great video!!

Looks great, good job guys

You will remove more moisture if you put the regulator before you dryer. When the air drops pressure it expands and gets colder and can't hold as much moisture so that is when it starts to come out on its own so there will be less for the beads to have to suck out of the air. All systems for sale as a kit are set up that way for that reason.

Looks great. Cant wait for part 37

Should have pulled th convertible seatpan then put in the brace and then reinstalled

Is there anyone making an aluminum oil filter & cooler relocation plate for these yet? I can only find older models with it available.

Hey guys amazing restoration im also making a beetle convertible you guys are both awesome im really enjoying to see u how you restored this very fabulus history cars, yes im still watching u now with my hot coffee,thanks

What the name of the brand of the transmission cooler and did increase your mpg?

The way you had it first was backwards in the sense of thermal dynamics. Run the hot air into the top of the coil so the coil can cool down as the air goes downward. You don't want the hottest on the bottom so that heat given off rises to the pipes above it. It will cool better with hot on top and cooler on the bottom. Plus the air will push any condensed water toward the drain tee near the bottom and not carry the moisture up toward the top. I used to teach HVAC and both air and hydronic systems balancing along with thermal dynamics, so I have some experience in that field after 46 years.

nice, good shaping n patching, bro!

Great review!

I made 1 long ago and i took it past a 90 degrees and it reduces the chance of it tipping back over.

You did a great job exposing the challenges of most conventional Weld-Thru. Most W/T manufacturers use zinc or copper in their products for two reasons. 1. For conductivity. 2 They actually want it to be a sacrificial coating. They want moisture to attack the zinc or copper prior to rusting or corroding the substrate ie metal. The challenge is most of the product burns off around the weld joint during the welding process as seen in your video; Leving the weld joint itself unprotected and vulnerable to immediate corrosion. Once corrosion sets in on the weld joint it creeps out (creep corrosion) onto the rest of the joint eating away the zinc or copper W/T. To date the best product I have used is from Like90 ( part# 10011) . It is a thin film resin based product that contains a corrosion inhibitor. When welding this product the resin liquifies, as it cools it pulls back around the weld joint. To insure complete encapsulation of the weld joint they (Like90) recommends the use of a secondary product Like90 Dry Film ( # 10012). This product is again a resin based product that will wick into the weld joint fully encapsulating the weld joint and any burn back that may occurred. Because the weld joint and burn back are now protected as well as there are no sacrificial corrosive elements included you are left with a premium weld joint.

if you can find some at local scrap yard etc, get sole copper hot water baseboard sections as it has aluminum cooling fins on it. its a thinner copper though so care in handling , cutting it and soldering it is something to be aware of a guy told us .

Glad to see this system, especially the cooling arrangement between the pump head and the tank. Good call on the drop ear fittings and the 3/4" pex. You've convinced me to do the same. The leaking you experienced on the soft copper pipe is because compression ring fittings are not suitable for soft copper pipe - at any pressure. Flare fittings will work, no JB Weld required. If the JB fails going forward, you might want to consider swap out those compression ring fittings for flared fittings. No sweating required, no additional union couplings. You will need a flaring tool for the copper.

thanks!

hey man at 5:52 when discussing polarity for gas shield welding you said, "the wire that comes from the gun goes to the negative." doesn't the diagram show the work connected to the negative pole? and the gun is electrode positive?

Good video

Great mod! Thanks for producing it.Ilive in hot Texas and I am scared to death of these 62TE trannys overheating. Judging by the accent you live up in the middle-north where avg far lower temps up there. But just curious how many miles do you have on your 62TE and is it original? Thanks again!!!

you are the best ,asere . thank you 😂

Yeah but how do you put it in reverse if its brand new?

it's hard to fix other peoples bad work but you guys did it like pros ;)

I am doing a 67 coup , your videos qre really good, thank you

On my 66 the "piller brace" installation looked as bad or worse than yours and I'm 100% sure they where factory installation. Had the Body shop add a bunch of welds per the 1966 weld and assembly manual. Reinforced a lot of areas using that manual. A large percent of the reworked areas where factory original. Ford was turning out Mustangs as fast as possible. Quality only counted on what would be seen on the showroom floor. Quality assembly was NEVER a priority on early Mustangs. They are well known for being poorly constructed right out of factory. Guess it wasn't to bad, 6o years later we are still driving them. They are not known as Ruststanges for nothing. They earned the reputation.

Turn the cooler vertically with drains at the bottom sadly seems to be the most efficient

Thanks for this very helpful video. I would add a few notes: (1) Regarding the plastic rivet thing that holds the dipstick tube to the oil filter housing, make sure when you put the new filter housing in place that the ear on the housing is *under* the ear on the tube. The holes in the ears will not align if you reverse this. Don’t ask me how I know this 🤬 There is a video on the Josh’s Jettas channel that covers this job, and he includes a shot of the plastic rivet before it is removed ; it shows the proper orientation. (2) If I was doing this again, after removing the fans I would cut a piece of Masonite or thin plywood to the same approximate size and mount it over the radiator to protect it from being gouged when the intercooler is being removed and replaced. (3) If you don’t already have a set of the special pliers that are designed for the hose clamps VW uses, buy them before you start this job.

Impressive Free-hand Drawing and plasma cutting.

I must have missed it in the video but what PSI are you running? I'm looking to do something similar as I have a lot of 3/4" pex but everything I see online says it's rated for 160psi at 73 degrees. I'm in texas so it'll be seeing 100+ regularly. My compressor is rated for 175psi. I can dial it down of course. Any type of pressure testing I have found on Pex online has just been on 1/2" not 3/4"

Interesting. I'll be watching the series.

The only thing I gotta say to people that are rebuilding vintage campers is if you have a camper that has aluminum sided and rough make sure that when you’re replacing stuff, make sure you replace it with non-steel screws because when steel screws rust when they’re used on aluminum, it actually interacted with the aluminum and makes the aluminum fall apart like you wouldif it was heated really hot

Very helpful. Thank you!

0.29 seconds, am I the only one who saw a pig in the sample? 😂

What size triple square socket do I need?

Thanks.

boy, as a builder i'm very used to the pluses and minuses of I-joists. Love your idea, but i would strongly encourage you to hire a structural engineer to pay you a visit. This won't be super expensive, and it will be peanuts if you have any structural failure , or heaven forbid an injury. They would probably address three things : 1/the alum beam itself (capacity), 2/ fasteners (bet it won't be grk's ), and then the I-joists. Posts below mention this, but they are designed for specific loading and load direction. Might be the best money you end up spending on this project.

hello again! I love your videos!! In the video you comment that it is very easy to remove curvature from the hood... how do you do it?? In mine I have this problem, the front is perfect, the back is also, but in the measured one I have a curvature that I don't know how to adjust.❤

Very innovative. I'm not ready to set this up yet but after watching <1/3 of your setup I'm sold. Subscribed 🙂

Very interesting. Good job!

In the bottle gas business we use the other style clamp (the one with the locking mechanism or ear) on CO2 bulk system tanks. While I’m not certain what pressure it could hold on PEX, on rubber lines these clamps will hold 300 psi with ease.

Flexzilla makes a makes a really good air hose that's what I and a lot of others use as well