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Primary air comes in contact with the fuel. Secondary does not. It should be preheated for best results as if it is injected cold, it may prevent (secondary) combustion. Years ago it was call "reburn" which basically means that any smoke was burned- combustion completed. Three things are needed for complete combustion: time, temperature and turbulence.

Matt, please do a video on the Sedore Stoves, I've come across those just a couple of weeks ago, and they look incredible, almost too good.

Notnilk free zone thank you Matt.

You’re right about that social of communist government in the United States. They requiring wood stoves to be so restricted they don’t even work.

Maybe they should just extend that janky stove pipe directly out the roof? Then sue the chimney guy for a refund.

could you review this stove: ruclips.net/video/0YZCQ9SuQVA/видео.html

To simplify the explanation of this stoves operating principle: this is a hybrid gassifying / rocket stove

Peter van den Berg designed the "Batch Box" rocket stove you're referring to. (He has a RUclips channel as well as posting on Donkey's Proboards forum.) He used Testo exhaust test equipment to measure CO, CO2, O2, and temperature to calculate efficiency. I recently built his latest design, called the "Shorty" which doesn't use any secondary air; it relies on carefully controlled primary air, high temperatures and geometry to maintain a very clean burn. I can never leave well enough alone, though, so I might experiment with adding secondary air just like your video showed in the first iteration of his original Batch Box (which I've used/built in the past). The exhaust temperature of my stove is never above 250 deg F and you can never smell, much less see, smoke coming out of the chimney.

Would they know by the temperature of the air coming out the top of the chimney?

Hey Matt, Thanks for sharing. I build a batch rocket mass heater with Matt Walkers design. I filmed it on YT. Long story story. I am rebuilding the stove, and going to be using similar principles to your stove design.

Great video thank you. Keep up with your craft.

efficiency or full combustion are determined by measuring particulates (%) at exit of chimney top - is what i understood the terms to mean, or how it is measured/determined. A pure 100% burn is theoretical but such a burn would measure pure water vapor (100% efficent/no percentage of particulates. A 95% efficient stove would measure 5% particulates etc. A standard american metal stove might be 60-70% efficient? and would be sending 30-40% particulates out the chimney (along with similar proportion of heat, and why they are practially less efficient at using the BTU's stored in the wood. Again, this is what i've come to believe..... And a J tube does indeed just burn the tips when correctly designed and running. I built and use one. Works fantastic, armful of small pieces of hardwood creates a full burn cycle, and enough to fully heat a heated seat bench with back. Well over 1000 degrees when measured at the horizontal bottom part of the J tube. This guys 'tips' are horizontal in how they are burned whereas a J tube has the tips being at the bottom floor of the chamber, but seems like the same idea. J tube has the wood/sticks places vertically in a tube or brick rectangle whereas he has the wood placed and loaded horizontally.... I have no secondary air. Adding one at the back of the horizontal J tube where it meets the vertical burn riser chamber may increase particulate burn (efficency)? not sure

Efficiencies ARE fairly accurate... however, the only caveat to remember is that these units are tested in controlled, ideal and favorable conditions. : /

Good job. I’ve been playing with secondary air concepts for 6 years now works well on my 8” flue heater, not as effective on my current double shoebox. I’m moving away from the metal p channel, next one I’ll try running outside air through bottom of a bench bell and into the back behind the port, no metal in firebox or riser

Tulikivi has recently added secondary air to their masonry heaters and claim about another 10% efficiency

Caminus woodstove. Game changer ❤

Any of them stoves with that secondary baffling.. they want tons of money for 😢

You sir have a great way of explaining this. watching your videos makes me want to build my own stove.

Thank you for explaining secon-derrier.

I love your videos I'm thinking of a project for the garage and a brick bbq/fireplace

I suspect that the draw from the stove naturally is either from the chimney being placed on the inside middle of the house that is releasing warm air compared to the outside, or it is simply a gust of wind pulling air out of the chimney

I bet Romans learned from the East. In Korean Ondol, you cook too. Korean system required least amount of wood to be used. Korean Ondol has initial rising hill and measures for condensation and draft assist. Also Ondol uses measures to use smoke at times to get rig of bugs. You load woods inside the house in the kitchen. You cook with the fire as well as heating. Korean system uses both expansion energy and condensation contraction to help the flow.

nice visual explanation thank you bro

Hi again-I hope this isn’t obnoxious, but in case you didn’t see my reply to your question below about my chimney, I’ll paste it here: my chimney will be up to “code” (even though such a small structure in the town I’m building needs no permit)-so the chimney will be a straight shot from the top of the stove, through the roof and about 2’ above the roof line-the distance from floor to topside of roof will be about 12-12.5 feet. And it will be an insulated chimney all the way up to the roof line, with a damper, as recommended. Thanks again.

These videos are great, if only north America could figure out how to implement these systems.

great explanation, Thank you for sharing!

Good video

Could the grate where the firewood will be burned be bigger? to add longer pieces of firewood?

Well said

one of the four watched till end, nice walk through.

Order fire rated glass online and make a glass door

What design tool are you using?

Hmm... It would be interesting to see an actual raw cost analysis of just materials alone. One for red, the other with fire. A couple hundred or a couple $k diff?? Thanks for sharing. : )

It would definitely be possible to add a proper lined firebox. Split all the brick that touches the firebox down the middle and lay the refractory brick on edge(shiners) it will be a lot of cuts but when you're done you won't remember it. Make sure to leave a small gap between the shiners and the red brick to allow for expansion. A lot of folks use sacrificial cardboard for this that holds the gap and burns out on first firing. It also makes rebuilding the firebox a lot easier. The refractory bricks will break down over time so it is good to plan ahead. Kuznetsov presented at the mha conference back in 2006 with an American builder Alex Chernov. His ideas turned out to be not the best but not the worst either. Research shows the full grate air supply can lead to over fueling and uncombusted gases but nothing is perfect. Another interesting aspect of internal channel design is how the hot gases lose volume as they cool so in theory pathways can shrink further from the combustion. Happy stoving and keep up the interesting work!

I would love if you share where to buy the damper. And doors (vents, combustion, grid…)

Hi there, quick question: of the various designs on your channel, is there one in particular you would recommend for a very small space (144 sq ft)? It would be great to have cooking functionality but it’s not absolutely needed. A warm bench would be a nice option to be able to add but also not necessary. Thank you for the work you’re doing on your channel. Not enough videos out there with practical advice on how to build these.

Matt, I unironically love your stove videos. I'M NOT JOKING! However, I'm not going to any website that ends in ".ru".

Fantastic!!! Thank you!!! I started collecting the bricks to buld this! I have a few questions, what size chimney for this stove? I have a 25ft 8" tripple wall chimney in the center of my house.

Thank you for this detailed build. Any thoughts about whether you could fit a coil of copper tubing inside to fashion a basic water heater?

Can you verify this.. I believe that those dampers, when in the closed position, still allow a small amount of air through, as a safety, to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning?

Very good project, I was researching about masonry heaters and I came across your video. If I wanted to use one of these to heat the whole house, I thought about using air ducts, with forced ventilation. But how would I be able to "catch" the very hot air from the masonry heater and distribute it through the ducts? Only the hot air, of course, not the smoke. Do you have any ideas? Where and how could I capture this hot air? Thanks

Very good project, I was researching about masonry heaters and I came across your video. If I wanted to use one of these to heat the whole house, I thought about using air ducts, with forced ventilation. But how would I be able to "catch" the very hot air from the masonry heater and distribute it through the ducts? Only the hot air, of course, not the smoke. Do you have any ideas? Where and how could I capture this hot air? Thanks

Usually tile stoves are placed in the interior of a space, and only have a chimney or flue that goes straight out the roof. Odd to push the flue out to cold bricks. Also traditional Russian stoves usually have a “summer stove” that is accessible indoors and vents straight up the chimney to start the draft.

I find it so ridiculous to build something so huge and expensive when a simple Fisher Grandpa Bear wood stove for $400 on Craiglist would do the same job. With a flue size of 8 inches it has extremely good draft and has a huge mass of 450 pounds that will act, on a smaller scale, like a masonry stove. I know it doesn't retain heat like a masonry stove but just throw over an extra blanket on your bed. Isn't it really old technology when bricks were cheap and invented before the creation of all iron wood stove? In that respect, it's kind of a dead technology. Yes they do look good and, if you're rich, why not have one but most poor people can't afford this. You're looking at spending a minimum of $10 000 for the second one right?

It's always a wild card to attach a masonry heater to a brick chimney especially on the exterior of a house. I will no longer do it after a few bad experiences. Double wall (class A pipe) is the only way to go. Also no one should ever build a stove without a bypass to get heat into the chimney in a cold start.

I was raised in western South Dakota and all we had on our prairie two story home which was underground up to the windows on three sides our about chin deep to a grown man this guy is totaly spot on your survival depends on own wits and grits my dads cousin froze to death about 6 ‘ from his front door this was maybe 8 years ago at age 78 we all grew up with the stories of this unless you grew up on wits and your own grits you can’t understand how unforgiving Mother Nature is being on totally wood is is completely different than on an oil or even diesel drip stove

A small gas tourch works great. Also for lighting. If you take a descent size, it will not get to cold and stop working after 2 minutes. You only need a small whole then.

Hope there’s some insulation behind all that brick or she will freeze!

That house is so charming. Matt, thanks for the info.

This video has me "bricked up".