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20 Nm

The first time the OBC reminded me to change the engine air filter was around 40k mark. It was slightly dirty, not horrible. If you drive in dusty conditions, I would assume the computer would tell you sooner.

@@NamHoang-wn6zp I see. Thanks.

Why do what you suggested twice when the front central lift point is designed to lift the entire front end in one shot, for example to place jack stands.

@@NamHoang-wn6zp because you have to drop that central plastic cover to use a jack. What I ended up doing is used 2 bricks and cardboard to prevent damaging the central plastic and it worked for jacking m40i up without dropping the plastic cover. I also bought the jack pads too

@@jonasbaine3538You do not need to remove any plastic at all. Simply position your jack pad in the center of the indentation as seen in video. The plastic shield is already against cross member and it’s designed to be used as is without having to remove it.

@@NamHoang-wn6zp I see. Well I didnt want to scratch my wife’s new m40i even on the underside! We love it!!

@@jonasbaine3538 No need to remove the plastic cover - just place the hydraulic jack exactly in the center of that circular area and lift the entire front end then place good quality jack stands on the two jack points behind the front wheels and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands. Now you can safely work on the wheels, brakes, whatever on the front end. The demo just did that to demonstrate the massive steel cross member that’s behind the plastic cover.

Thank you 🙏

I’m glad to hear the video was helpful. That was the intent, to help viewers with a quick how-to. 👍

Thank you 👍

It’s not too expensive. Got mine from Amazon.

Hello. Thank you for the kind words. The rotor hold down screw is your normal 6mm allen key type socket.

He’s going based off bmw manual

Glad you found this helpful.

Not recommended

Will void the warranty, I messaged pennzoil on Facebook and they said they don’t have any approved oils for bmw at this time.

Yes, a simple filter element like those used years ago would have been nicer. Thanks for watching.

Yes a new crush washer comes in your filter kit.

Hmm… good to know. Thanks

Shouldn’t be this hard.

Lol this is pretty easy in the realm of German cars.

I think at the time it had like 42k miles.

You’re fine as long as you don’t turn on ignition while disconnected.

5.25L

Thank you 🙏

I’ve never had to do this but I would add 0.1 qt at a time. Over filling is not good for your engine.

Please check out my video on how to reset your maintenance computer. ruclips.net/video/CtaYTD39ti0/видео.htmlsi=0LOl4osfsg66bUEd

@solomonros with all things German, just do “good n tight” :)

Thank you Kenny.

After lifting the front at the subframe as shown in video, you place stands at the front jack points behind the front wheels. There will be a rectangular plastic black jack point on each side.

Hi good eye! My rubber pad for the cradle broke some years ago so I substituted it with a hockey puck. I then use the 2x4x6” to evenly distribute the weight of the car. Thank you.

@@diydaddy5092 I saw your other comment in different video, "I’ve owned BMWs since the 90s. I jack them all up from the rear diff. Make sure you use a rubber hockey puck on the jack pad.", do you also use the same 2x4x6" on the rear diff jacking spot? Thanks!

@@dinan53 for the rear diff, I skip the wood. I lift it using just the hockey puck since it’s gentler on the aluminum case. On the X3, I use a piece of wood lifting the front because it’s butted up against a steel beam covered by that piece of black plastic belly pan cover.

Can’t go wrong dropping the pan.

With all due respect, I have never heard of engine damage as a result of not using BMW spec oil AND changing your oil on a regular basis. I believe it’s more important to change your BMW oil every 4-5k miles than worrying about if it’s BMW spec oil and let it sit in your crank for 12-15k miles like most BMW owners do cuz free maintenance. FWIW, I’ve owned BMWs for 32 years and all went over 100k with no engine/oil burning issues.

Well, I’ve also owned BMWs for many decades including an i8 that I serviced myself. The reason for the 0-W20 LL-17 FE+ full synthetic spec oil on the G01 X3 is related to the low viscosity requirements for that specific engine’s fuel economy performance and its ability to flow through tiny pathways in the engine to properly lubricate key components. It’s NOT the same as other Castrol Edge oils. Sure it’s better to change your oil than not to, but why not just use the exact spec oil if it’s available at basically the same price? That’s my preference as I’d rather minimize the risk of any damage that could occur by oil that is unable to properly lubricate key engine components because it’s not the right oil.

@@PH-md8xp Oil discussions always stir up lots of opinions/excitement. I respect your choice to use whatever you like. I’d just rather not go there. The whole point to the YT video was a brief how-to for those wanting to DIY. I’m not telling anyone what they should or should not use. To each his own.

Both of you are correct. For the X4 BMW does recommend LL17-FE+ but also they state an alternative can be used if the LL17 is not available. Alternate oils must meet API SL, SM, or SN. The one in the video does meet the SN spec. Not going into debate of what’s right or wrong here, just stating what’s stated in the manual.

Since we have high sulfur content in our gas in the USA, it is very important for this engine to use the BMW approved LL01, LL14, or LL17fe which stands for fuel economy. These bmw approvals are important because the approved oils are Low SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur) engine oils designed for vehicles with diesel particulate filters (DPFs) and three-way catalytic converters (TWCs) because they have lower levels of these elements than regular engine oils. These elements, also known as "ash-forming" elements, can negatively impact the performance and longevity of catalytic converters and DPFs. LL04 should only be used in Europe because their sulfur content in gas is much lower than ours.

Yes, it’s the same setup exactly

@bond4894 You probably looked up the wrong engine on Google. Search for the 2.0 liter engine if your X3 is a X-drive3.0i. The X-drive4.0i has 3.0 liter inline 6 cyl.

@@diydaddy5092 I got bmw x6 I found out it’s 3.0-liter turbocharged six-cylinder engine. Google says Capacity: 7.4 quarts (with filter). Should I put all 7.4 quarts?

@@ibond4894 No. There are a few variables such as Is your floor completely flat? Are you jacking up just the front or the entire car for the oil change? If this is your first time, I would put back 7 qts, then go drive to get up to temp then go to your OBC to check oil level. You can always add more. Overfilling is not good for any engine.

@raygonzalez7478 Ugh! Hate it when technicians go Neanderthal on nuts/bolts. If you’ve had no luck with engine warm then perhaps try FreezeOff. It’s for removing stuck fasteners. Spray just the cap portion when your engine is cold. The hope is the cold will shrink the cap enough to help break that seal. BTW are you using enough leverage e.g. longer socket wrench handle than 7”?