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No matter what model of the Peoplenet Systems had installed in your truck, it should not have caused the tractor control light (icon) to come on. It is not related to the tractor control system. This is my opinion only. There are only two options that the tractor control light could have come on. One is that the tractor control may be faulty, or someone may have uploaded a new version software to your truck through ESA.

Hi, the axle nut is reusable.

@tholeetruck Yes, the axle nut can be reused, but after being torqued once, the threads can lose their self- locking ability. It's not a mandatory issue, but it is advised for the $3 nut.

If you click on my descriptions, you will see a link to the parts you are looking for. I had made a parts list in it.

I will answer your questions, assuming that you have a Peterbilt or a Kenwood Truck. From your descriptions, you may have two issues. Your HVAC SYSTEM may have a bad actuator, or a broken blend door(s). It sounded like your temperature blend door and the defrost blend door may be broken. . After replacing an actuator, you will need to calibrate your HVAC SYSTEM for proper working.

@@tholeetruck yes 2014 peterbilt 579. Thanks for the reply

@@tholeetruck do you know the blend door part numbers?

The book labor time is 8 to 10 hours. Most Mechanics could do it under that. For me, it's 4 and a half hours.

For the water pump drive belt removal, you will need to remove the pulley on the water pump .

@tholeetruck I removed the 4 bolts from the pulley but I can't get the pulley back on. Do I put the pulley then the belt? It's very tight

There are two procedures, depending on what model and type of the water pump pulley. If the pulley is a split type, you will need to install the first half of the pulley in and then install the shims and rubber in. Finish off with the other half of the pulley. Make sure NOT to over tighten the four nuts. For the one-piece pulley, you will need to install the new belt onto the crankshaft first, then install the water pump pulley in only 80% in at a tilt angle with ONLY one bolt hand twist in 10% into the thread. Slowly turning the water pump pulley clock wise until you can install another bolt on to the water pump thread. Countiniouse until you get all four bolt in. Finish of by tighten all bolt mounts down. Make sure NOT to over torque these four bolts. Don't worry about the belt sliding onto the pulley this way. It is the correct procedure.

@@tholeetruck Thank you very much. I really appreciate your help

I'm sorry if you didn't understand my video. My descriptions will explain what this video means. I made this video at my workplace, and it's a customer truck. I have no time to explain every single component that I have to remove. If I had done this video at home, I would have the time to explain everything. This video is not intended for the entry level mechanics. The book labor for this job is more than eight hours. I made this video for entertainment, and for those general mechanics with some skills level that just need to know, or see from start to finish, if they ever get stuck on a job like this. I had performed more than 20+ truck HVAC SYSTEM repairs on Hino, Peterbilt, and Kenwood, so if you should ever have a question, please feel free to comment. If I have time, I will reply.

35mm

I believe that you may have forgotten to reinstall the small rod to the carburetor back in correctly. This small rod controls the idle. Check the small spring to see if you didn't drop it by accident during the removal of the old carburetor. I would advise you to reopen the cover and check to see if the small rod is reinstall back in correctly.

The rod (limkage) from the carburetor is installed correctly. I have checked everyting with yourvideo. The spring from the throttle lever also goes to the right hole on the plate. @@tholeetruck

In a month or two, I will do an update on how my aquaponic system is working.

@@tholeetruck awesome

@@tholeetruck well??????

To remove the beam bar out, you will need to remove the two side fender panels out. There will be three long bolts on each side. You will need to disable the coolant hoses from the heater core with two vise grip locking pliers and recovering the ac system for disconnecting both ac hoses from the ac core. After those are done, there are about 5, or 6 bolt mount the HVAC system on the engine fire wall. Than you will be able to lift out the HVAC SYSTEM. Make sure to remove the Philip screw at the driver side where it holds the vent to drivers feet for easy removal. To replace the TEMPERATURE blend door, you will need to dismount the HVAC system apart. Be very careful to align all the blend doors when reinstall, and don't loose any of those torx screws. Most important of all. You MUST recalibrate the HVAC BLEND DOORS, when everything is all back in with a laptop (ESA) program. If you skip this procedure, the HVAC will not work properly.

Thank you very much for your fast reply! 😊 I will subscribe to you! 👍 Is there a way to recalibrate by removing fuses or turning hvac buttons in a certain procedure to reset actuators? I'm not too familiar with ESA software, do basic shops like TA Truck Service and Loves' SpeedCo have that level of software to recalibrate? or would it require Paccar Davie4 from Peterbilt/Kenworth dealership? If I need to purchase ESA Software, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance! 🔧

Our shop uses ESA software to recalibrate. I'm not sure about other. If you do this for your own personal truck, I would recommend after you have it all in, just take it to any truck shop that has ESA software to recalibrate that for you. Tell them you want to recalibrate your HAVC system. They may charge you a small fee, or possibly free, since it only takes about a minute or less to recalibrate.

Carburetor kit # 303922628870 www.ebay.com/itm

@@tholeetruck my man thank you it only work when the chuk on

@@tholeetruck the page is missing it doesn’t open the link

Go to eBay, and search the part number I sent to you. I had tried that and it works.

This is the result of skipping the diagnosis procedure. My boss had learned his lesson by not letting me perform the diagnosis. I don't trust any of my co-workers diagnosed. I get paid by the hours, so this waist of time don't affect me. This video was to replace the broken temperature blend door and the broken defrost blend door. If my boss would have listened to me, it wouldn't have got this far.

That's a relief. My heater stopped working, but the heater core is hot. I was watching this thinking way to much work and way to much cost to have it done.

This video is about the DEFROST BLEND DOOR, and the temperature blend door replacement which requires the whole dash assembly to be remove for access. We are not talking about replacing the ACTUATOR. That will be too easy.

Base on your description of the issue. It sounded like the defrost blend door is broken. To confirm the issue, shine a flash light on the blend door input hole to see if the teeth are grounded off, and cracked indicate shown. To replace the broken blend door, there is no shortcut to it. The whole dash assembly must be removed as you saw on my video. Once you get that far on my video, there are some torx screws on top of the HVAC system that you will need to remove. Just remove enough torx screws just enough to split open to access the broken blend door. Once you remove and replace it, you will need to calibrate and test the HVAC system. Do NOT skip this process. It is always a good idea to replace a new actuator as well. Note: If you are not a mechanic, I don't recommend that you tackle this job alone. Some shops would take at least 8 hours to perform this job. I have done these HVAC systems so many times already, and it took me 4 hours to complete.

There was nothing wrong to this HVAC system, as I had later found out during my diagnosed. If you watch the complete video, you will see me explaining it. A long story short, It was my boss that wanted me to skip the diagnosis procedure, and just simply wanted me to replace the defrost and temperature blend doors because the night shift mechanic who had already spent 1 hours on the diagnosed procedure. He wanted to saved labor time by trusting this entry level mechanic diagnosed. He had found out the hard way when I had showed him there was nothing wrong to the HVAC system. A lot of times have been waisted, but it wasn't my fault. I was just doing the job that was given to me.

This was a long story to begin with. There was nothing wrong to the HVAC system. It was ordered from the top to just remove and replace the broken HVAC blend door. If you watch my video, I did a more detailed explaining why I didn't have to replace the HVAC blend door at the end. I am sorry that I didn't get the opportunity to work on replacing the blend door, and to show you guys the proper procedure, because it wasn't broken.

You could get it online, but like I said in my video. You will need to practice using this tool, and if you get it right, it will come in handy.

This is very helpful. But what size is the Brice belt

Like I had said in my video, and in my descriptions, there was nothing wrong founded to the HVAC system. Long story short, two mechanics have diagnosed the customer complaint of the HVAC system, and said that the TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR was broken. I want to do my own diagnostic, before digging into this job, but order from the top said since two mechanics have already spent too much labor time diagnosed the issue, and had already confirmed the problem that the HVAC blend door was broken, they just want me to remove and replace the TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR. All ended up, we had waisted even more labor time on this job.

From star to finish 4.5 hrs. It's a long process.

@@tholeetruckI wonder why Kenworth just quoted me 10 hours to replace my temperature blend door

@SeeSaw99 to replace the broken blend door, depending on what blend door it is, the HVAC system would have to be remove from the truck, and split open to access it. It usually takes 10 or more hours to replace the blend door, depending on which one. For a professional, it only takes me 4 hours to complete the job.

@tholeetruck it's the cabin temperature blend door. I can't get any heat. The mechanic a kenworth said it's the most difficult because it requires the complete removal of the dashboard, some protection bar/frame, as well as the entire hvac box.

@SeeSaw99 that sounds like the TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR. If it is this blend door, than the HVAC system would have to be pull out of the truck, and split open for the replacement of a new blend door. Yes, it is what the Kenwood mechanic said.

I don't have that information now. If you would like to get the part number for the blower motor, you would have to provide the whole complete Vin Number and get it at Allstate Peterbilt Dealership. Thanks for watching.

I used gray rtv silicone.

There are two plates on the carb. The plate near the engine side should be where you would make adjustments to the carb. There should be a small rod linkage that hook on to the plate, and to the rear bracket which is Spring loaded secure. Make sure that this rod linkage is hook back on. I hope this answers your question. Please comment back to confirm.

@@tholeetruck I have the linkage hooked up, but when I move the lever up and down it does not open the throttle

The lever up and down is for the rabbit and turtle modes. This lever does not open the throttle. The knob on the left side is the one that opens and closes the throttle. There should be a rod for this plate also. When you put the cover back in, make sure that the rod goes into the large oval shape hole. When you turn the knob, it will open and close the throttle. You may have forgot to install this rod back in. If you go back and watch my video, before I remove the original carburetor, you will see the rod that I mentioned.

@@tholeetruck The knob on the left is the choke. I was able to get it started and so far it seems ok, but like you said it's hard to start once you shut it off. Where did you get the tube connectors to hook up the fuel filter?

It comes with the kit. I have the link for the kit in my description. I hope this answers your question.

Thanks for the information. And you are right. These types of dipstick must be screw down to properly check the oil level. I did double checked my oil level after my video, and it was level. Thank you.

Thank you for your concern. And you are so right. That is why I don't recommend anyone to mix the engine oil like I did on mine. Always follow the manufacturer recommendations.

Depending on how dirty your engine oil is. If you skipped a lot of oil change and the oil becomes gummy like fluid, then I would recommend it. Gummy dirty oil will cause your valves not to perform as it should, and soon will cause your engine to knocks (those are lifters). My opinion is base on a normal working engine only. If the engine have other issue. Than I would not recommend it, because it could cause more harm to your engine.

@@tholeetruck I bought a 100k+ used car but it has been maintained with 5000 mile oil changes. Still, was thinking of flushing since it's an 11 yr old car and I don't know the quality of oil used

**100k + miles

If you really want to do it. Just make sure the engine does not have any other issue, and runs fine with out any knocking sounds, it should be fine. I have used engine flush kit before. Just follow the kit directions carefully, and not run your engine pass the recommended minutes it stated. I have never use engine flush kit anymore on my vehicles, because I service my own oil change at every 3,000 miles, and I used only full synthetic oil. I personally don't like using engine flush kit, and tends to stay away from it. A little of the engine flush kit will remain in the engine after your flushed. It will go away on the next oil change, not to worry too much.

I wish Minnesota is like that.

@@tholeetruck Need to do only parallel parking behind a parked car and three point turn (k-turn) on real street (not in some parking lot with stupid orange cones) and follow basic rules. That's all.

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I would highly recommended the 0W20 full synthetic. It doesn't matter what brand you choose. I use Mobile 1, or Valolin 0W20 on my Honda also.

3000 miles change using Mobile1 is really a waste of money.

Yes, and that is true for vehicle engines now a day. The reason I used Mobil 1 oil for every 3,000 miles on my vehicles, and recommended to most of my customers is because depending on how you drive, the oil gets really black and dirty when it reaches 3,000 miles. Plus, here in Minnesota, we have to deal with the winter season, and with good oil, engines will start easily in cold weather. Sometimes my customers may go over the 3,000 miles recommended, and that is fine for the engine. It doesn't have to be only Mobile 1 oil. I also uses, and recommend Valolin full synthetic also.