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@@BritishBeachcomber thanks for the clarification.

Ferrite doesn't make sense at 50/60 Hz. Current transformers usually have nickel cores. The black stuff was probably a black plastic housing.

@@foogod4237 thanks much for your well-reasoned response. I was pleasantly surprised with the added level of sophistication of the device since I’m sure it was sold as “just a plug strip” … thanks again.

@@ralanham76 thanks for your reply and for subscribing !

@@CurtusVanPebbles well reasoned … thanks for your comment!

Thanks for your comment

No, in the US these are called "ground fault" interruptors, but the circuit itself does not have anything to do with the ground wire (in most GFCIs, the ground wire is not even connected to the circuit, and will function just fine even if there is no ground present at all). As described in this video, GFCIs only look at the current flowing on the hot line and the neutral, and will trip any time those two things are not balanced in some way.

@hmatyas1 thanks for sharing your experience! I too haven’t gotten back to getting my little laser working. When I do, you’ll see it in a video. I noticed your Makerfaire shirt … I think I have the same one ! Please feel free to share as much as you want in these comments; appreciate it.

@@danielatbasementtech Do you live in the Milwaukee area? That shirt I believe is when we had the Makerfaire at State Fair in West Allis Wisconsin.

@hmatyad1 I am in the Milwaukee area ! I was an exhibitor at that Makerfaire : showing and talking about this like I show on this channel. I brought my project where I used an arduino to try to control the temperature of a charcoal grill 🤣… kind of the start of this RUclips channel !

PS I do a lot of work at my son’s knife making business: zimKnives on North Ave. stop by !

Feel free to add the items you found in the comments !

Hi @TerriMullins-ju5ob ... thanks for your kind words ... I love sharing my experiences. Two thoughts ... The symptom you describe is what Phase-a-matic said might happen if the generated phase is not switched out when a heavy load starts. If I were you, I would double check the documentation against your wiring and make sure that your switch is actually on the generated phase. Secondly, I'm not an expert with motors that big, but you are pushing the limit of what a rotary phase converter can start without "run" capacitors. However, I might imagine that the startup load on a lathe is pretty small ? Finally, if the above fails, I would recommend calling the Phase-a-matic technical support line (I think it's 661-947-8485 and/or there's an 866- number on their website) and ask forJeremy. He'll probably answer the phone. He was friendly and super helpful in answering questions I had in making the video. Maybe even mention my youTube video :-). Please continue to let us know how your progressing in the comments. Best of luck (and skill of course).

Terri, also see the updated video ruclips.net/video/5lvSSsYZjLs/видео.htmlsi=gzPV6I94hi0dH2eJ . Same idea, just a cleaner build, a newer phase-a-matic model, and some testing with our surface grinder.

PS Anyone else have ideas for Terri ?

Thanks @phillipcoplen8051 ! … it was fun (and useful) to get it going. Those relatively big motors are so powerful !

@@danielatbasementtech absolutely, I’ve played around with some big power stuff but 3 phase hasn’t been something in my house 😂. Maybe someday I’ll need to build one of those also

@foosless, thanks for your question .... I'm afraid I don't have any experience running cnc software on a mac. I run LinuxCNC on an Intel based PC and Mach3 under Windows on an Intel based PC. I did a quick google search and it seems that LinuxCNC does not run on a mac. If you find a path forward,. please post it here. I can say that LinuxCNC does not require much of a PC to run successfully, especially if you are using a Mesa card to do the heavy lifting. I purchased the PC that I'm using for $35 at an electronics swapfest.

Hello, it depends on what you are measuring, but I can't think of a combination that yields 22V. I went back and re-watched the video and was reminded that it appeared to be a regulated (+) and (-) 15 VDC on the three wires that lead to the board. So, I do wonder if the blinking has to do with an issue with the power supply regulation ? Have you progressed ? Let us know if you learned anything after this comment ... thanks.

​@@danielatbasementtech The switch worked.... I just noticed that the back-lit PCB get 22V from the main PCB Not 15V.

Thanks for your comment. See the video where I talked about my Tetra pump. I like it better, you might too.

Thank you … I have a fun follow-up coming up soon.

@kaelHankins ... thank you for your comment ... I appreciate it very much.

Was going to give you grief for fusing neutral ;-) Explanation seemed sufficient.

Thanks for the comment … the discussion is always valuable. I probably threw you off with my wire colors. The white wire is the third of the generated three phase and would be marked blue with tape if I were to field this … sorry for not making that clearer. No neutral in this circuit.

Hello I have the same phase-a-matec phase converter and a couple of questions for you my friend

@@genielife7618 I’m happy to share anything I know !

Glad you liked it!

Thanks @mytuberforyou for your comment and suggestions. I was hoping that there was a way to edit the words on the Mach3 buttons and/or add new buttons. I was also hoping that there was a way to add M-code functionality so that I can maintain the flexibility of keeping all of the functions separate. I have found, for example, that I sometimes start the spindle, adjust feeds and speeds for the characteristics of the specific piece of wood that I'm machining and then turn on the dust collector. So, having the flexibility of wiring them all separate and maintaining them as separately editable software/gcode elements is useful. I might, for example, start the spindle, pause 10 seconds or so to allow adjustment, then start the dust collector. (Can you tell I've developed a lot of software :-) ). Finally, my spindle is controlled by a RS-485 computer interface. So, tying into the spindle control circuit would not only be restrictive, but not straight-forward. (The RS-485 interface allows very find grain control of the spindle motor and provides feedback on the state of the spindle controller and motor.) Ok, finally, finally, I didn't include it in this video, but I modified the Vectric Aspire post-processor to add the M-codes that start and stop the dust collector. The Vectric implementation allows great flexibility in adding custom gcode. I will definitely look into the Mach 3 macros and GUI editor to fine tune my implementation and include it in a future video. Thanks.

@@danielatbasementtech There's a lot to unpack there but I will give it a try, I have been usiung Mach3 on and off since 2007 but not much lately. I built two differnt generations of controllers for my mill during that time. Feed (F) and spindle speed (S) should always be discrete- they are set by the tool number, in your CAM software. If you use Aspire you are familiar with this, your 1/2" ball endmill for example will have a different parameter than your 1/2" rougher. don't screw with them in Mach, you can use FRO to tweak something a litle in realtime to experiment if it sounds like it is going too fast or slow. Yes, in your CAM software post, add to the program start and end all of the paramters and macros you need to switch on what you need, to prep moves, initial tool touch off, whatever. Macros in Mach3 are written exactly like G code, tha part is dead simple. You just derfine them as a macro and give them a name- wizards are also customizable and Helpful- I have one that flattens an area as big as the workbed by taking .020" off twice- just gotta use a vise so there are no clamps in the way. You could have a wizard to resurface your spoilboard, for example.To use the editor you need the VBRUN300 or whatever that Visual Basic Runtime kernel was called- I think I can find you any files you need on my milling machine computer.

@@mytuberforyou thanks for the dialog ... I really appreciate it. I think we're actually in agreement ... I should have provided more details . 🙂 I do set the default feed and speed in the bit parameters in Vectric Aspire (and Rhino CAD for the CNC Milling machine). Those numbers show up in the gcode. As you describe, I use the spindle speed override, and feed rate override to "tweek something a little in realtime" to get the best cutting sound for the specific piece of wood that I'm cutting. As you probably have experienced too, hardwoods tend to vary enough to require a little tweeking. My dust collector is near to the machine and it's loud ... hence leaving it off for a few seconds while I listen. If I find that I always have to do the "same" tweeking, I make an adjustment in Vectric (or Rhino CAD) and regenerate the gcode. I am looking forward to utilizing macro's, wizards, and making the words on the screen match the actual function. Watch for an upcoming video and please continue to provide comments and suggestions. If you do have files that will give me a leg up, I think you can message me directly?

@2savetherepublic, glad you enjoyed the video and like your 705. Sadly, my 705 has recently started exhibiting an issues wherein the relative volume of the channels is so off that the balance knob can't fix it. I did a little troubleshooting and it seems to be in the pre-amp section. I'm trying to decide whether to try to fix it or not. Where did you send yours for repairs ?

Мені шкода, що вам не подобається колір ... це приємно, коли слухаєте музику в темряві :-)

@mattivirta ... thank you for your comment and question. My sensors, as you probably know, are NPN sensors. PNP sensors have to be connected differently. I would point you to the User's Manual of the CNC4PC BoB's for reference. Even if you aren't using that specific BoB, their manuals provide some very nice information on connecting various sensors. I would point you specifically to Page 12 of the c10r10_user_manual.pdf. Please message back if you don't/can't find what you need there. Best, Daniel

@KingofKatenfutter ... thanks for your comment ... always appreciated. Funny you should mention that; it looks as if that module was completely replaced at some point, but no soot :-) Best.

@colthenry1594 ... thanks for your comment ! ... wow, a blast from the past 🙂 So, quick answer, not really. However, I still have all of the hardware and "someday" will get back to it. I had limited success, but think that I may have been leaving too many variables in the burn equation. I was using bulk/chunk charcoal. That stuff is very hard to control, even in general. I have noticed that most of the automated smokers these days control the "fuel" side of the burn equation using the speed of an auger that feeds fuel pellets. However, I do still think that it's possible to control the temp from the oxygen side. If I ever do get the project back off the shelf, I would probably do the following: 1) Use a ring of charcoal brickets arranged in a ring around the inside of the grill such that one ignites the next one in the ring as an attempt to keep the fuel supply constant. 2) Run some tests with my dampers fully closed and open to try to establish that they actually have control over the temp 3) Do the same with the fans 4) Use the above results to more deliberately tune the PID Let me/us know if you make an attempt at this ... would love to know. Feel free to post links to videos if you make any. Also, if you need/want a link to my software (such as it was at the end of my project), let me know. Best, DanielAtBasementTech PS Gosh, now you have me thinking that I should make another attempt sooner rather than later ... I just got a used Weber Grill 🙂

@@danielatbasementtech All great ideas, thank you for responding! I subscribed so if you ever do bring out some more vidoes I'll be able to see

@@colthenry1594 thanks ... appreciate it. I am finally starting to make some new content. We've been moving into a new building for my son's knife making business and that's really kept me busy for the last 6 months. Lots of fun things in the queue.

I'm sorry for the delay, I thought I had replied with the dimensions. I did some research at the time and followed the average of the answers found. And, yes, apparently the height dimension is critical to optimizing separation. Mine is 10 inches top-to-bottom (inside dimension) and about 18-19 inches in diameter (hard to measure without disassembly). Hope this helps.

@justDIY thanks for your comment … it was a good year at the Hamvention!

I think it’s important to be factual. GFCI outlets are not overload protection devices, only ground fault. Also, no, the pump was fully submerged during its entire short life. Amazing how much you know about my pond without ever having seen it.

I’m actually feeling that I need to make this point a little stronger: one should carefully consider whether to return a pump or other pond accessory to a watery environment when the device that’s designed to warn you has done so. I chose no.

@Adrian, thanks for your comment … please keep us updated. Question: were you using a fully contained Hall effect sensor like the ACS 758 ? I think my problem was more of noise … how noisy is your environment?

@@danielatbasementtech I was using the ACS712, +-5A variety. I spent hours trying to filter out the code but in the end there's only so much you can do. The noise is supposed to be there from factory and it only gets worse with less than perfect conditions (like temperature, static noise, etc). At the end of the day it uses the magnetic field to 'estimate' a value rather than read it. They aren't bad sensors, they just need using depending on what your need is (e.g reading >=12V 1A, estimations. Here's the code I came up with trying to filter out the noise (and yes you can pick up the earth magnetic field with it, depending on how you rotate it). I guess it could have used further filtering out in terms of RMS, but again, there's so much you can filter when you can't even set a baseline 0 value. float current = 0.00000; const unsigned long InternalReferenceMillivolts = 1080UL; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); } void loop() { current = get_reading(25); float abscurrent = abs(current); if (abscurrent < 45) { current = 0.0000f; } Serial.print("read value: "); Serial.print(current); Serial.println("-----------------------"); delay(2000); } float get_reading(int numSamples) { float value = 0.0000; float raw = 0.0000; float rawvRef = 0.0000; for(int i=0; i<numSamples; i++) { rawvRef = rawvRef + getVccMillivolts(); raw = raw + analogRead(A0); } raw = raw / numSamples; float vRef = rawvRef / numSamples; float halfVref = vRef /2; Serial.print("Vref: "); Serial.print(vRef); Serial.println(" V."); Serial.print("Vref/2 (0 point): "); Serial.print(halfVref); Serial.println(" V."); float rawVref = raw * vRef; float voltage = rawVref / 1024.0; Serial.print("Detected voltage: "); Serial.print(voltage); Serial.println(" mV."); float voltageDiff = (voltage - halfVref); float absVoltageDiff = abs(voltageDiff); if (absVoltageDiff < 10) { voltageDiff = 0.0000f; } else { value = (voltage - halfVref) / 0.185; } Serial.print("Voltage difference: "); Serial.print(voltageDiff, 4); Serial.println(" mV."); return(value); } // Returns actual value of Vcc in mV float getVccMillivolts() { float result = 0.0000; // Set the analog reference to DEFAULT (AVcc == Vcc power rail) // REFS1 REFS0 --> 0b01 -Selects DEFAULT (AVcc) reference // Set the analog input to channel 14: the INTERNAL bandgap reference (1.1V +/- 10%) // MUX3 MUX2 MUX1 MUX0 --> 0b1110 -Selects channel 14, bandgap voltage, to measure ADMUX = (0 << REFS1) | (1 << REFS0) | (0 << ADLAR) | (1 << MUX3) | (1 << MUX2) | (1 << MUX1) | (0 << MUX0); delay(10); // Let mux settle a little to get a more stable A/D conversion // Start a conversion to measure the INTERNAL reference relative to the DEFAULT (Vcc) reference. ADCSRA |= _BV( ADSC ); // Wait for it to complete while (ADCSRA & (1 << ADSC)); result = (InternalReferenceMillivolts * 1024UL) / ADC; // Calculate the power rail voltage (reference voltage) relative to the known voltage return result; }

Hello @Philip Christian … what is the best way to share the files ?… do you have Vectric software ?

@@danielatbasementtech I use fusion360 but any vector output would be fine since I can import that into fusion and play around with it! Thanks again

Where to get file?

​@danielatbasementtech please reach out to me, I would love to buy this file for my kiddo! I use vectric and am happy to pay for it!

Thank you !!!

Very cool !… happy to play along with your conversion … feel free to post here. Do closed loop steppers have encoders ?… would love to hear how that goes.

@@danielatbasementtech They do, optical incremental and resolution of 1000ppr. Which might be great or not, no idea honestly 😂The the loop does close with the drivers though.

Hello Paola … thanks for your comment … I’m happy to share the files … i used Vectic Aspire for design and my machine uses Mach 3, so that was the g-code creator/output selection.

There was some improvisation and adjustment necessary after the CNC operations, but the parts were mostly there.

@Armanjur thanks for your question. Good question, I have never tried that. It’s usually the mechanics that break, not the camera. I would guess that you would have to either implement your own motor control (if you tossed the microcontroller that’s there) or have two network connections. Let us know if you try it !

@@danielatbasementtech oh ok. Thanks for respond

You're welcome !

Thanks @jairo Mendoza … Many more videos planned

See the follow-up video on getting 5V I/o pins from an esp8266