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The gold has to be applied to the raw aluminum so unfortunately it won’t go over any existing patina like aluminum black. You can strip the aluminum black off using the same method I did to prep the saber however. Then apply gold

Hey Flight! They screw on and off. You may need to reach your fingers into the saber and pin/hold in place the bottom section of the switches in order for the top piece to unscrew. Make sure to go slow and DO NOT lose the springs as they are tiny and very hard to replace.

The starting color will be determined by what prefix you have it at. If you’ve downloaded a font and have installed it, then most likely the starting color is correct and changing the blade style will not change the blade color. Hopefully this answers your questions.

@@mankcortherancor3581 yes kinda im just wondering what the color would be when its in its new slot

@@jackjackwilliamson758 I understand what you are saying, for the purpose of the video, what if I wanted to turn that blue yellow or a different color?

That’s awesome! Let me know if you have any questions

Oh man sorry to hear that. Is there a chance the material isn’t aluminum?

Keep an eye out on eBay, they pop up from time to time

I’d clear coat both if possible

And yes you could brush on black but make sure to not leave it on too long if you want it to be light weathering

I did those with a tiny paint brush and went very slow. Keep steady hands, and don’t put too much liquid on the brush!

I bought it from Korbanth.com but they are currently sold out. It’s originally made by 89 sabers but I’ve heard it’s hard to order direct from them.

Thank you!

Yes it should. Most “mirror” aluminum is anodized so the easy off would work.

@@mankcortherancor3581 thanks , I try 😎

Awesome post some pics of your saber after!

Thank you! I think I’ll be doing another set in a few weeks

It really is! Glad the video helped!

Unfortunately I have no experience in polishing a saber. I’ll reach out to some fellow saber smiths and see if I can find an answer!

@@mankcortherancor3581 thanks! I'm curious!

@@musicfridge still haven’t found a good answer yet. Do have a few questions... When you mean dull, do you mean the overall color has faded or has the shine (anodized layer) started to ware off?

@@mankcortherancor3581 Thanks for your efforts! With Dull i mean the overall look of most of the lightsabers even when they are new. For example: The saberforge Ares, Fallen or Gladius have this unshiny metallook whilst the Archon, the new redeemer or the Outcast have a shiny surface. I was hoping i could recreate this Shiny look with some polishing. :)

@@musicfridge Oh got it. Unfortunately that shiny look is an anodized chrome coating. Polish would not be able to recreate that look. The saber would have to come that way in order for it to have that shiny look. I think it would be possible to strip your saber down to the aluminum and repaint it a shiny chrome, but I don’t have any experience in doing that.

Thanks! Share some pics once you’ve finished. I would love to see it!

Yes, I could do an install for you. Send me an email to HeyMankcor@gmail.com and we can discuss further

Yes it is

Used the oven cleaner to strip ALL parts

Mankcor the Rancor okay awesome! I just got my dm1 in for Christmas. The emmiter section appears to be a different metal or something. Should I strip that as well? It’s tougher than the rest of the hilt

@@matthewpurvis congrats on the Christmas present! You’ll only want to strip sections that you wish to patina/stain. If your looking to weather that section then yes, you’ll want to strip it. do you know who made it? I’d reach out to them to see if all the parts are aluminum. They should all strip the same, but you will need specific patinas for the metal type. If it ends up being a different metal you would just need to find a Patina for that type of metal. Surfin Chem who I use has tons, but there are many other distributors as well. My guess however is that it’s just thicker aluminum. Aluminum is pretty much the only metal I’ve ever run across with the 20+ sabers I’ve built. I have heard of sabers using brass or copper but that’s a bit more rare. I’d check to be safe but

I’m pretty sure it will, but I’m not 100%. I’ve never tested it on aircraft aluminum, but as far as I understand Aircraft Aluminum is still the same compound as “regular aluminum” just forged and treated differently to make it stronger. (Am I right on this?) so I’m guessing the same reaction should occur regardless of the aluminum type. As long as it doesn’t have any anodized or painted layers it “should” work. I do want to reiterate that I have never tested this though so it’s just my assumption.

@@mankcortherancor3581 What is this lightsaber you weathered made of?

@@tomaattimaisteri8747 I think just regular 6061 aluminum...I think

Yeah shipping chemicals overseas is tricky. The black Patinas are pretty common but this is the only place I’ve found to have gold. So sorry for the disappointment, but please post here if you find an alternative. I’ve had a couple of people comment with the same problem!

It is a much different process for proffie. Unfortunately I have only worked on CFX, so I have no idea about Proffie programming.

@@mankcortherancor3581 I’m getting a proffie saber soon and I want to learn how to add more fonts

@@AIDEN_SMIT Congrats on the new saber! It’s my goal to learn Proffie next. from what I’ve seen the Proffie boards give you way more customization but are not bit more technical when it comes to programming. I’m pretty sure there’s some RUclips videos on it though. Let me know if you come across any good resources

@@mankcortherancor3581 I’m getting mine from a guy named “powwells power ups” he’s posted a few videos on it but mostly CFX videos

Thanks dude!

Hahahaha, yep sure is. I didn’t even notice until now!

Was your saber already weathered? The paint and epoxy remover will only remove paint. If your trying to remove the gun metal grey, that is anodized so you will need to use the easy off oven cleaner to remove that.

Also when you get to the black Patina part: in my video my cup could only fit half of the side emitters, if you have a larger cup to cover the entire parts I recommend that. Both will work though

Ok thank you

xGarrettx1990 feel free to hit me up with any questions and post some pics of how it turns out!!!

Congrats on the new saber! You are good to go, this process will work for either. Remember to use the easy off oven cleaner to remove the gun metal grey.

Mankcor the Rancor thank you so much for the info! One more question what do you use to attach the little pieces that come with the saber? Do you glue them?

xGarrettx1990 for the parts that go on the emitter and the parts for the pommel, I used super glue for a more permanent hold. The middle pieces below the switches I use hot glue because the set screws are located underneath and I want to be able to still get to them if I ever need to remove the chassis.

Thanks dude!

Agreed, this hilt looks 1000% weathered. I’ll need to do some work around the melted area to really sell the idea. Also I think I want to replace the red interior of the pommel, to something with a little more detail. Am excited to add some accent LEDs to the chamber and light it up though.

Great question! If you let the part sit it will begin to form white flakes on the metal. This is the metal oxidizing. It will make the black look very dull. After the final “dip” wash the part, dry it off, then spray the first clear coat. This will stop that. If for some reason you let the part sit too long and it starts to form the white flakes, simply wash it off again, then dry and apply the clear coat

@@mankcortherancor3581 Got it, thanks for reply!

Thanks for this vid. I'm trying to learn about patinas and other metal treatments for my hilt. Have you learned anything about patina safety as far as skin contact goes? Now that I'm ready to the artwork, I'm getting paranoid about chemicals and skin contact.

13lake Thank you! You will need to wear gloves to avoid skin contact. Although the chemicals are not considered dangerous, you still want to protect yourself. Patinas are pretty common in the hobby/craft community so as long as you wear gloves you should be fine.

(And by “not considered dangerous” I mean: as long as you are smart and careful while using the Patinas you will be ok. You absolutely don’t want to ingest or breath in a bunch of the fumes. Generally if you wear gloves, and use them outside you will be just fine.)

Thanks! I wouldn’t recommend it, but It is possible with electronics installed if you are EXTREMELY careful. If even a drop comes in contact with your sound board or electronics you can break it. You would also have to brush it all on. Very risky, but possible

Hard no just take em out theres tutorials to break down almost any saber

@chamoo232 Paints should work just fine too! Be mindful not to fill in the holes though, when I do my install I’ll be adding an LED in the pommel to shine through matching the blade color. I did consider bending the broken edges back a bit more, but chickened out. Didn’t want to snap one off. Keep me posted on your etching too, I’ve really enjoyed watching your progress. It’s giving me the courage to try myself

@@mankcortherancor3581 I'm working on the etching tonight. I need to figure out the size of the text, where I want it, on 2 or 4 lines and all that. It's not a test anymore so I really need to do it right.

@chamoo232 the moment of truth! Good Luck!!!!

@@mankcortherancor3581 2 hours of the most precise fine brush work I ever did. i.imgur.com/LoMrjOc.jpg Triple checked the spelling of every letter. It's ready and I'm scared.

chamoo232 suspense is killing me

It’s really an amazing design. Korbanth knocked it out of the park

@@mankcortherancor3581 i just ordered the General Leia v2 saber from Darkwolf Sabers. Going to have a Verso board installed.

Congrats! I’ve heard great things about dark wolf, but never owned one. Is this your first from them?

@@mankcortherancor3581 yes it's the 1st time I have purchased from them. Hoping all goes well.

chamoo232 dude awesome! It’s seriously a sweet saber you’ll love it! Agreed on the screws, I wish they were solid plates, maybe dye/paint the screws the same color as the plates? Love the way gold/copper looks on this hilt. I have 3 more empties on the way, I might be playing around with some different color schemes. Keep an on the channel for some more weathering videos!

@@mankcortherancor3581 My plan is to actually glue 3d printed parts with a few little wires on top of the screws to hide them and to add even more to the whole damaged/salvaged hilt. If there was no screws I would have wanted to use the guards as a spot to acid etch the Jedi code in aurebesh language. I might still try to fit "There is no death, only the force" around the handle itself between the 4 notch and the 2 rectangular boxes.

@chamoo232 really good idea! I want to start etching myself, just need to practice a bit before I give it a go on a hilt. Etching would look so good on this saber!

@@mankcortherancor3581 I already have the ferric chloride but I only did some tests on steel parts. It work but it doesn't really carve much. I will definitely try it on aluminum before I try it on the hilt itself. Maybe even the inside part of the emitter guard. The only thing that worries me is the space. If I need to make the text really tiny to fit I might not do it. I think my favorite thing would be to acid etch and then just fill in the screw holes and paint the guards with metallic paint. My second option is 3d printed pieces to cover them. This is that I designed. i.imgur.com/CF49yrm.jpg I copied the design of the parts we can see inside Kylo Ren's hilt through the open crack where the red cable goes in. Or... the jedi code on one guard and the techno parts on the other... I don't know! too many ideas.

@chamoo232 that’s a really creative solution to the screw holes. I love the added red wire, it gives the hilt a scrap parts vibe, very cool. If you end up doing any etching or adding any of these mods please send me some pics, I would love to see how it turns out!

Resurgent RL3 First I stripped the anodized layer off the hilt and then I did a chemical dip using Alukot-95 for about 1min which stains aluminum. Rinse with water, and repeat about 3 times. Let air dry and rinse with water after white dust appears. Spray with clear coat matte finish and let dry. Then sand/buff with a scotch bite pad until desired look. Apply one last finish of clear coat matte. I’ll be doing another video this weekend with step by step instructions

24 45 jim awesome, thank you for the feedback. Still getting the hang of making videos, so all feedback is welcome!

It’s so shiny, I love it

Yeah I Agree they look Awesome