Видео

This was an awesome day!!! Sick video too 😁👌🏼

Nice view 👏

Hi

naughty that

Vtec power :) but the guy in the Yaris can’t drive for shit

🔥🔥🔥

Sounds like my pressure washer I swear

If this is your first time, this is fine. The ring is definetly a track where you need to build confidence over a lot of laps lol

Nice gloves, where you gettin them from? 👀

cant wait !!

Was Luke the passenger?

Missed a bit

Come and do mine

Great detailing Jay! Keep the vids coming!

When I'm out in my little Wolseley people genuinely love it! I've had friendly waves and smiles from strangers, all adds to the magic of classic car ownership!

Love these cars. I had an A35 years ago, much prefer them to the Morris 1000, of which I also had one. You ought to get that brake pull sorted out ASAP - if you had to brake in an emergency it could pull you into a cyclist or pedestrian on the path, but I'm sure you already know that. It probably won't be much and if it pulls to the left it'll be the drivers side front brake that's causing the issue. It's probably just a wheel cylinder in that side drum that is stuck and needs gentle freeing off - all the other three brakes are probably OK and don't need any attention for the time being. Freeing a stuck wheel cylinder is a quick and easy job, just be careful not to let it pop right out! However, if you're getting through brake fluid (you do check it?) then it could be a leaking cylinder piston seal on the drivers side front, letting fluid onto the linings - a slightly bigger job to sort out. As you probably already know, the rear brakes are operated by a rod linkage mechanism - they don't have the best of braking systems, it has to be said, but they're adequate for a small car of that time period.

nice. its in better condition than my ones!!

P knob is for panel lights dash lights

You have the water shut off valve closed, it is not a thermostat. The other levers are for air flow. You have a rheostat on the fan control to vary the speed. The reason the heater box is heavy is that the heter coil is made from copper. The P switch if I remember is the parking lights, the headlights are on your stalk. I am surprised you don't know these things owning the car. I had an A35 van at 18. To fit rubber pipes easy add some soap or washing up liquid. The A35 had the heater matrix inside the car leaving the space by the fire bulkhead clear. The bolts were a mixture of A/F for engine and BSW for body items. It is a good idea to use the bottom radiator pipe to drain the cooling system as there is a good flow which takes with it any rust and scale in the system. You could connect a garden hose to a connection and flush the system out. If your engine is leaking oil , it will be the cork seal at the front and rear of the engine, which could mean an engine out. Quite simple to do, but remove the radiator first and the fan, drain the engine oil, take the gearbox out with it so you can check the clutch disc and pressure plate and release bearing. It might evennbe worth replacing the clutch assembly including the release bearing if its almost worn out, saves taking the engine out again. Just removing the gear box in-situ to work on the clutch is hard work lying underneath. Too many utube videos show people struggling for the sake of removing a piece of equipment to give better access, it doesn't save time to leave it in. Replace the clutch slave cylinder / or rubbers whilst it is out. The engine comes out of the top. Check the rubber engine mounts whilst out and the prop shaft universal on the diff. Think its a splined shaft off the gearbox. (Its 50 years since I took an A35 engine out). You will need set of chain blocks with plenty of headroom between them and the bonnet. Best to remove the bonnet and cover the wings arounfd the bonnet with old carpet or towels to protect the paintwork. If you have touble with the voltage regulator you can send it away and have it changed to a solid state one inside the same box, so nobody knows. Unusual for a diff to leak as the seals for the half shafts are in the brake hubs. Its possible sombody has got the drain plug cross threaded, or has had the half shaft housing off and not replaced the gasket(s). Gaskets, seals, split pins,nyloc nuts are one use only items. To use them again is at your peril and will cost you more in the long run as they will fail. Grease all bolts, nuts, gaskets( make sure all mating surfaces are clean and flat for a good seal) with moly slip or in the case of hot items like exhaust nuts, clips on exhaust pipes use copper slip ( a small tin of that will last you all your life as you don't need much and it doesn't go off,but keep the lid on it, any other grease for that matter. As far as the brakes, you have an adjuster on each brake drum behind a rubber plug ( they are not self adjusting like modern cars). The rear brakes are rod/wire operated via a common slave cylinder under the drivers seat , but under the car, this is alo connected to your handbrake. When you pull the hadbrake on you shouldn't hear the ratchet sound, if you do, then you are not depressing the release. Failure to do this on any car will result in wear to the pawl and rack and the hand brake won't hold. The hubs are held on with 2 soft Phillips countersunk screws, often a devil to remove unless greased first time. If you can source the same thing but in flush allen head screws, it will save a lot of heartache, but they are not METRIC, but BSF or UNF. One other failure part are the King Pins on which the front wheels swivel, the body has two steel backed copper ( I think or phosphor bronze) bushes of different diameters.these can easily be replaced if they can be sourced using an expanding parallel reamers to obtain the correct fit. They should be greased with a grease gun along with prop shaft universal joints, water pump and other grease nipples around the car. This car will teach you more than the Acura if you do all the work yourself as I have done on most of my cars for the last 50 years. I repaired mine witha very basic tool kit, you don't need a 5' high 'Snap- On' tool kit for these cars. I used to keep my tool kit in a cloth tool roll (I made) with pockets thats how minimal it was and still got it today. Think I had 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8 AF spanners plus my BSW set I used for work, screwdrivers, pliers , plug spanner, feeler gauges for plugs and points ( 0.025 & 0.014 if memory serves). Mole Grips, Stilsons or slip lock pliers serve no purpose on these cars, you only butcher things up. Enjoy the A30/35 experience.

What are youre specs mods on the car an witch suspension? An excaust?

A super clean little gem !!

did you go to Nürburgring whilst you was there

Pleasure was ours. See you in 2024! 😎

Did these come with a heater as standard,or was it an option @ the time?

One of the cars you could fix your self apart from basic maintenance I don’t work on my cars anymore

dont ever wrap your thumb around the starting handle. . can be very painful. . Al

I used to go there all the time. Great spot!

WOOF WOOF

Liked and subscribed :)

Hi Jay, WHat type of Tow bar did you purchase if you don't mind me asking. I'm planning on installing one myself. Cheers

Go Pros Are a Pain They Overheat as Well

Lovely Integra!

Woow

🏎

That was me doing a fly by at 6min on your cool down lap, your car went well for std suspension mate

So close you could smell my yellowness 🤣🤣🤣🤣

look up driver61 video at oulton and 'wet lines'...

Next time don't bring your mom go la...

That ending

What tells you about tire pressure? Is that a CTR thing or aftermarket?

Nice drive

Nice drive, what were your thoughts on the cars performance. any overheating. Im on the fk8 uk forum.

Jeasus mate that think flys, you can drive to son 👊🏼

Nice drive! How did you mount camera for this angle?

Nice jay 👌🏻

That your first time ? I done sub 9 first time out there in mine 200bhp mountune spec haven’t times my recent times out there

Sort of power and mods were you running?

My dingo infront at start

The world is filled with brightness.

I did session J in a wrapped grey focus as passenger