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Thank you Mr Timo I find your video is very informative about all the different variable situations on materials ,temperatures and proper vapour barriers to avoid moisture problems. I live in Canada where the temperatures can get cold in the winter and extremely hot and humid in the summer. I am renovating my basement as of now there was a water leak problem from outside which I had to remove the drywall and the old insulation in a certain section which created mold, our basement are made of concrete form about 10 inches thick more or less.instead of using poly plastic I used Typar building wrap on the cement side of the concrete wall and on the insulation side l stapled Typar building wrap to the wood studs before I put the drywall up. I would like to see the experiment with the vacuum on a concrete slab and see how the concrete reacts.

Darn, I didn't know I would need this, but now I really need this hammer. Can I borrow yours?

0:57 I don't think that is slow motion. Altough I am willing to be corrected

Great video!

Stop!! It's Hammertime.

Good for you for building a tight house. And good for you for seeking the information to do a good job. It seems like you are confusing "vapor barrier" and "air barrier" and strangely defining "vapor retarder" while doing little to clarify what "breathing" means for a building. Buildings are not alive; they do not need to breathe. Poorly chosen metaphors like this cause so much confusion. A lot of vapor travels on air currents, so controlling moisture in the vapor form is usually best done by controlling air movement. Vapor diffusion has nothing to do with air movement. Buildings should be tight because tight buildings do not waste energy. Once a tight building has been constructed, a mechanical ventilation system must be employed to ensure fresh air and to control interior humidity. (Of course, ideally, the mechanical system is designed well before the building is constructed...) Your tests were air-leakage tests of various materials compared to each other, but the vast majority of air leakage is not through OSB, drywall, or even MDF. It is around them, at the joints and connections, which is why you were taping the seams and edges of your OSB.

Thank you so much . This was great and helpful towards a potential retrofit project . Im exhausted from reading papers so this being both educative was very welcome

That looks like it was designed in the DDR, such a brutal design

Just Plain - Thankyou .

Excellent demonstration would be so useful for all levels of education & training instruction.

I was with him until he started using Freedom Units, bushells and grains.

Great demo. Thanks for sharing.

Could you do the same test with hempcrete?

Was the drywall painted or non painted when you conducted the breathing test?

I m srilankan carpenter i like german wood work jobs

That kind of German hammer is very ingenious. Estwing from the USA has the Latthammer in their catalog.

I'll put an adze sharpened California framer on match to your hammer any day. less wrist and shoulder strain with mine and same functions. Yours will be a close second.

Hello, don't you need paper over the joints ? Or it is not required if there is osb below dry wall?

Excellent, very useful.

Great information! Thanks for the ubakus!

Great content, thanks for posting. Great quality video.

this video is so well edited and with an interesting history. cheers for the video Timo

I have been looking for such calculator in English for ages . I knew there is one in Russian

depending on a climate, but during summer everything is reversed and now you have hot humid air coming into your house but your vapor barrier is stooping water inside your ceiling

Hey hi, do you still live in Germany? Im Going to move to Germany. I have a small Shop i will be moving to Germany soon I wanted to know a bit about Germany? If woodworking small business os possible? I have to decide if i can get mt tools to Germany or start from scratch?

I've seen this type of hammer made by Hultafors, but I've never seen anyone here in Norway use one. And then I finally found this great video explaining it's history and use. Thanks! It's on sale now, might buy one.

What brand is that hammer anyway? Geodore? I bet many people in North America have accidentally ordered a latthammer and just thing is a faulty hammer with a claw missing.

Finally someone showed why this strange hammer exist. But I suppose it is more complicated to pull out nails with it?

Great work, great dude

Its just an extantion to my hand

Keiner kann dem latthammer das Wasser reichen. It's the most essential timber framing tool apart from the saw. Hoch die Zimmererkunst!

Thank you Timo 🔨🤝

I sure hope you continue to make more videos! You are not only informative, but also entertaining! I see your family is entertaining too! Great job, young man!

Brilliant!!!

Love that . Great video

Thank you! great test.

more vids bro!!!!

jesus.....german humor really is no laughing matter

Nice history video. 😉

Amazing: Short, funny, informative.

Thank you very much for the video, very informative. Will add to my tools.Greetings from Escondido, CA.

Wie Gehts! Ich verstehe bischen Deutche, ist der hammer die Würth, solider hammer und etwas billiger als die picard, Ich habe einen für 15€ gefunden. Ich werde es kaufen. Vielen danke!

Hello

Sir your mail sent me pls

It won’t be exact. But I think I’m gonna cut one of the forks off my hammer to get it close to this hammer.

Muy raros!!! 🤔

Perfekt wie immer.... vor allem der Stuhl ist grossartig! Warum doppelt beplankt mit GK? Brandschutz?

ich hab das olle Dding schon immer geliebt, aber kannte vielleicht ein Drittel der hier genannten Anwendungsbeispiele.. :D good Job!

Excellent! Keep up the good work.

So geil,Makita Bürschtmaschin😂