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I would just check the clearance on the camper and see how that would compare to a truck. We had a rental, too; just a standard mid-size SUV, and we did just fine -- as long as you take it verrrry slow!

Looked up the city regulations. They don’t allow any detached structures over 1000 sq ft.

@@loganhermanns2675 That does vary. I was able to have a 40' x 60' shop next to my house. If I had my way, I'd have a two BR shop with a bath and kitchen 😄.

@@rocketman-pt8zp A zoning thing I suppose?

@@loganhermanns2675 I have to have a permit from city and city inspection but I'm actually located in the township.

If you think about it, it does not matter since it must be nailed at specific distances on the perimeter as well as the interior.

10:08 can see one course of ice and water barrier at bottom, then owens corning underlay going to ridge. He’s fine. I’d have done one more course of I&W though. Maybe whole roof since it’s small

Yeah, that’s my question.

Easily 30k+ here. Maybe closer to 60k. Depending on the builder.

Cut price in half, just for unnecessary concrete work.

@@approachingtarget.4503unnecessary how? The building code requires it.

Not for an unconditioned garage, this is extremely overbuilt.

If you’re going to the expense to build a garage it’s not at all a bad idea to do what this guy did. Winters in Wisconsin (been in Madison since 2000, came from Seattle.) are painfully cold. Single digit days (above zero F.) are the warm ones oftentimes. The garage of my house is attached. Built in 64, a 4 bed, 3 bath, nice place. The insulation sucked. The only wall in my garage that had any insulation was the shared wall with the living room. In 2014 I think it was, the fridge in the garage had gotten so cold, all the beer and soda froze and exploded. Following that, I doubled the wall thickness, on the three opposite sides by framing it against the already 6” walls. Adding fiberglass, and doubling the drywall in all the walls. Also adding styrofoam sheeting to each of the garage doors panels. Now it’s both temperature insulated, as well as soundproofed. I can run my dewalt planer, or table saw with dust collection, at any time of day or night. The decibels inside are around 100dB. 10’ outside the door it’s barely 60dB. Inside in the living room since it’s both fiberglass insulation, plus now there are four layers of drywall, you can’t hear anything. Even the drums downstairs, the studio playroom beneath the living room, now can’t be heard in the garage. My workshop is still a 2 car garage (only one cars ever inside) with a fully functional workshop. I can use a small propane heater, and have it be a cozy 68F with just a box fan distributing the heat in the dead of winter, and it’s almost possible to keep it cool in the summer. But once the doors open, that’s all over. But my recently installed ceiling fan helps. But to have replaced that tiny garage with another tiny one is not very sensible. If you can afford $50K making it a two car shouldn’t break the bank.

@@STV-H4H I can't say for sure but I think that its a bare minimum 2 car garage, looks about 20 feet wide. I'm on the east side so I could probably find it if I looked hard enough.

@@TheAxecutioner at most, two smaller cars might fit. 25 x 25 makes a roomy 2 car garage. As I watched the builders, I was kind of mentally measuring the width and lengths of the walls after they were tilted up. Seeing the sheets of styrofoam was helpful. They are 4x8 sheets, 4 or maybe it was 5, vertically along each side. Making the exterior pretty much 20feet. per.

A couple Priuses will fit in there ok lol

Like others have posted, we have cold winters in WI, frost can reach up to 3’ below the surface. You don’t want a foundation that is compromised because of frost heaving.

The old garage probably couldn't hold two SUVs.

Because we build stuff right the first time in WI!

@@chrisstromberg6527 with cheap ass lumber that will flex and twist for just existing?

That foundation was waaaay overbuilt. I live near there & that was very over and above minimum local requirements

@@GunnerStrausercheap lumber?

@@TheAxecutionerjust read the code and you are not correct. Has to have a 4’ deep footing to account for the frost line to prevent frost hacking.

Well you could see they put heat tubing in the floor

@@dennisfournier8649 No, they didn't place any heat tubing into the pour. Compacted fill, then foam insulation board (with red tape over the seams), then plastic vapor/moisture barrier, then some light re-rod (maybe fiberglass rod?), then concrete. They probably will heat it somehow, but not with an in-floor system.

What is the code? I want to read where it says a detached garage is required to have a footing below the frost line.

@@dailyyoutubeviewerit’s easy to find. Look up it up, I did. Yes looks like the footings and foundation were built to code and not more. The old foundation was clearly inadequate.

That’s a heated garage , with radiant heat thru the floor.

@@kcMan7938 I never saw them put down radiant heat…. Even still not sure the importance of insulating the vertical walls in an ungraded space but I’m no builder

It's more for stopping moisture than heat transfer. That would rott the whole building from the inside out otherwise

@@thomasdemaio53 still doesn’t make sense in an unheated space. Temperature doesn’t cause rot

@@thomasdemaio53 especially on concrete

Over the last several decades, a few winters up in northern Wisconsin had so little snow cover that frost was getting down 7-8’, so I see why this has to be deep. At least Madison is not as harsh as the northwoods. Cool video.

That's what I was trying to figure out, why they dug the foundation so deep, the frostline thing would make sense. I live in Chicago and have seen plenty of garages built, but never that deep and are winters are on par with what WI gets

@@Nancy-y8q1n for an unconditioned garage here in madison, this is extremely overbuilt

There's a white membrane put down then a row of black ice dam seal near the edge before the shingles goes on. It's there, you jus have to pause the video.

No joke, was thinking the very same thing. Deep footings but easy on the steel and ABs. At least winters are more mild here.

To be under the frostline. I think it might become an apartment. Why insulate and have a vapor barrier under the slab.

Up here in Minnesota if the garage is attached to the house the footings have to be 60" below grade but if it's separate you can use a floating slab. I'm told it has to do with frost movement in winter. Who knows

a secret man cave at the very least!

Frost in Wisconsin goes roughly 4 feet deep in the middle of winter. In order for the foundation to not shift, all footers have to be a minimum of 4 feet below grade. Floating slabs are only allowed if the structure will not be conditioned space. Again, due to frost.

A frost heave could actually destroy the foundation to make the structure unsafe

How would you pay the architect to engineer the garage floor so you wouldn't end up with two cars in your lap? Let alone pay for the structural steel you'd need for that floor loading?

I’d take the horse