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Thanks mate!

Hi Mate, Nope, not yet, something I have been looking at. It's been 2" lifted for a while and first CV boot to fail, I do wonder if a diff drop will improve the serviceability of the boots. Would sure improve the CV angles.

@simmoshomeworkshop Thanks for the reply. I was wondering the same thing. How long did the CV boot last after the lift? I got a 2007 Hilux without a lift that I'm planning on lifting 2 inches and the CV angle isn't so great even from factory. But if a diff drop was done I feel it would kinda of negate the positives of a lift.

It's lasted pretty well, the lift was in the car shortly before I bought it it seems, it's done a heap of kms and off roading before the boot has failed, I think the 2" lift is pretty accepted as ok. Anything more and the angle is tight especially at full droop off road and extended shaft start to become a thing too. I would say a 2" lift on its own is fine and a diff drop is an option to make it more reliable. The diff drop shouldn't make it any less capable off road the diff height will be compensated with the lift and the lift allowing bigger diameter tyres.

@@simmoshomeworkshop Thanks for the advice. Have a good one!!

Hi mate, can you get it to the point where it has a solid red light (after process one where it is ready to accept the new key)? From there if you put the new key in and leave for 60 seconds it should register. Couple things to look out for: -Be sure you hold the new key if the barrel is a bit flogged out -It could be a faulty new key? I did a revision here it it may help? ruclips.net/video/N_0kQwTuEjU/видео.htmlsi=TXcSHrwnnJx_D7dB

Nope, in this case I did not, if you open the system at any time or suspect there is air in the system you must, but just retracting the pistons is not cause to bleed it up.

It is not necessary to drain the oil from, in this case, the differential. I lowered the opposite side of the car and lifted the side to be removed so the oil would stay in there. If it is a front wheel drive car with a transaxle it is very likely you will need to drain the oil / fluid as the level will be much higher in the transmission case.

Ryobi advertise it as all grass types, the motor is load sensing so should ramp up for the thicker lawns, from my experience when I hit the thicker stuff it does perform better with the higher amp batteries and 2 x batteries (I use 6Ah and a 5Ah). I'd say it'll do just fine. Just keep the deck up a bit so the buffalo doesn't get cut too short.

It seems the GWM Q1000 was discontinued a couple of years ago, from what I can see the GWM 1000 is still around as a JDM only. The official AUDM website no longer has them 😕 not sure why. No news I can find on a new model either.

Hi mate, No worries, some generic tips I can think of: If its a C24SE engine I'd say it has an alloy head, It's not uncommon for the exhaust studs to come out of an alloy head rather than the rusty nut coming loose, mostly due to the alloy not rusting to the bolt, this can also be the reason they come loose, the dissimilar metals with different rates of expansion plus the gasket disintegrating. As for putting it back together, a couple things to check: -Be sure the threads in the head are ok, no stripped threads - if they are you can helicoil back to size in most instances -Put a straight edge over the cleaned up exhaust manifold, warpage could be the reason it blew out the gasket in the first place, if it is severely warped it could leak again, best to skim it or replace. -If re-using the old studs (new are always nice to have) Clean up and fit all the studs the right way around (taper into head) with a double nut if required to tighten and torque up if possible (tight is fine), a little loctite should stop them coming out of the head again. -Be sure all surfaces are clean and free from burrs or old gasket and fit with new gasket and anti seize nuts and tighten in sequence a little at a time each until evenly tight. It should seal nicely and be back in business!

Assuming it is a C24SE the internet tells me the torque setting is 22NM for the exhaust manifold to cylinder head, sounds reasonable - don't quote me though!

@ thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.

@@simmoshomeworkshop where should I look , to find out if it’s a c24se ?

@@simmoshomeworkshop I will ask the auto one store if they have replacement studs and nuts . Thanks . It’s got an Isuzu engine in it . I don’t know if it’s relevant .

Hi mate, unfortunately for this method you do need at least one key that is recognized by the ECM to code an additional one. Has the vehicle stopped recognizing the key for the ignition only? Is it possibly an issue on the vehicle side or a damaged key? Disappointing about the dealer, I would have thought with a VIN and proof of ownership they would be able to provide a replacement cut key, is it possible to reach out to a dealer on the mainland, or perhaps a locksmith with specialized key coding equipment? Sorry I can't be of more help

I'm afraid that's a little beyond my qualification as a mechanic, best to refer to your doctor, best of luck

Very cool, I've never seen a slick top TT, rare car!

@@simmoshomeworkshop Mine is a 1991 JDM RHD TT 2+0 Auto Slick Top fully restored it could be possible that they made the JDM TT Slick tops only and not for the US also not sure how many in both they made of each the NA and TT Slick Tops it would be great to know how rare they are!

Hmm, odd one, couple of quick things to check, if you tap the power button once it does mute / unmute the system make sure that hasn't happened, they are set to mute the sound when in reverse for the camera too (this can be changed in settings) maybe try a couple of different audio inputs (radio Bluetooth etc) other than those it could be a hardware issue, assuming the factory harness is ok and worked before it should work now as a plug and play.

😅 Fair!

Thanks mate, I don't recall there being an allowance to add an external mic. Having said that the built in mic seems pretty good, no complaints from both ends. Good video suggestion I think that is something I could sort out.

Also, I've got a canopy on the back so having the reverse camera on demand can be useful when driving etc. Is this an option for it to just be constantly on if I wanted it to? I do like how you did the other video where you hooked up to tail lights so auto comes on when reversing. Again thanks for your help!! Subscribed and liked videos

Legend, thanks!, yep I've seen a couple of people do the camera on demand wiring, you would need to run power from somewhere (fused) with a switch to the same red signal wire we ran to the reverse lights. That way the switch will perform the same function as as the reverse light signal turning on the camera. If you want to avoid powering up the reverse light circuit when you turn on the switch, a in line diode on the reverse light signal wire will prevent current travelling backwards down that signal wire, not required but possible if you want to.

Thanks mate!, I have a torque table diagram for the Hilux components, I can't guarantee the Isuzu would be the same, what year is it? It's likely there is some accessible information online with the specific torque values for the Dmax suspension.

Hmm, been a while since doing these, from what I recall the new trims had all the same retaining clips as the ones that were removed, All I can think are the clips from the old ones something that can be transferred to the replacement trims?

Hey, if you can get one for $20, even better! (also $60AUD as I'm from Australia 😅)

I find it works pretty well, I make calls fairly often through the Bluetooth and it's fine. I have a fairly noisy uninsulated cab and A/T tyres and the background noise doesn't seem to be an issue (I am assured by my callers that it is evident I am on hands free but it comes through ok too) I am using the built in Mic on the unit only. I do find if I am listening to Bluetooth music or the radio and a call comes through I do have to turn up the volume quite a bit to reach the same speech volume levels as the radio was at though.

Plugged straight in with no programming mate 👍

@@simmoshomeworkshop sorted. I'm wanting to add a plug and play cruise control lever to my 1999 Toyota TownAce Noah but the connections on the squib aren't compatible. Wondering if I can replace the squib for a 1st gen RAV4 that has the plug and play connections.

From what I know the electric SUPER HICAS was the better one, and made more reliable as it was simpler with no hydraulic hoses or the need for the power steer pump to operate it

@@simmoshomeworkshop that makes perfect sense. Yes. I’ve just got to fix my motor on the electric rack 4was

It is a general rule that if you disturb a seal it is best to replace, however in this case it is not leaking and it is a lip type seal, after cleaning and a visual inspection of the seal journal and the seal itself, I was happy to reuse the seal rather than pull it out (and possibly cause a new leak 😅). If it would be a bigger job to change the seal if it were to start leaking (like a rear main seal or something) I would have replaced with new for maximum life.

I've never tried with anything other than the autowatch remote that matches the installed unit, I don't see why a cloned remote couldn't perform the same function as long as it can mimic the same frequency as the original, the receiver shouldn't know the difference, I'm assuming..

Thanks mate!

Thanks from the U.S.! Exactly what I need for camping.

The TT makes it fun.

Better that than have a bunch of hype around it and attention from bozos constantly

@@thrasher10000 true, just an underrated car sadly

@@angelo6167 indeed! This and the MR2 both massive 90s sleepers

Put some respect on the z32's name. I really don't get why people don't love this car. I have a 1990 ZX TT build and I'm coming out strong. Gonna put the VG30DETT on the map.