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Thank you. It seems to be a bit of a unique beast now.

Thanks. The grinder is just the right size for my workshop. It's one of the machines I wouldn't be without now.

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I don't have a T&C grinder but so I've no practical experience but that one looks nicer (more refined) than the Clarkson. Cheers

Thanks!

Thank you. I guess if you've got one of these you'll see I didn't get all of the details of the clamp right, no spring and no shoulders to capture the flat anvil, but I was going on guesswork and after I'd finished I watched the Joe Pie video again and saw what I'd missed first time around!

Thank you. The missing parts made the uni-mike affordable. I doubt I'll wear it out! The mill is the perfect size for my workshop. I acquired the TC grinder specifically for sharpening the horizontal milling cutters which are cheap second hand. It seems to have been even more useful than I would have imagined.

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Yes I got a whole load of horizontal cutters for my universal mill at auction along with indexible inserts and normal vertical milling bits. I think there was £2k's worth at least at full prices for £100. I just need the cutter grinder to sort them all out. And then buy the tooling to fit the inserts. 🤔

Thank you! I wasn't going to film it, but wouldn't have had enough time this week to generate any material for a video had I not.

My tailstock die holder is one I made years ago when all I had was a minilathe, hence the stubby handle. I don't have a vast selection of dies and most of the metric ones I have aren't split. I also quite often single point critical threads then finish with a die, especially if they're fairly big (thats 1/2" and upwards for me!). As for the small part on the mag chuck, I tried several locations and gave it a good tug test before grinding and was careful to only take light cuts, a thou maximum. The spindle nut is RH, I guess due to the direction of rotation at startup. Granted they could have reversed everything. Its a 3 ph motor run on a VFD and I have a 20sec ramp up and down time to avoid shocking the wheel.

I’m not a fan of the non split dies but we have to work with what we have. Regarding the Eagle there would have been no cost difference to have made it rotate conventionally at the design stage. I am tempted to make a new spindle for mine with a LH nut so I can do this provided I don’t find any other serious issues when I restore it. A grinder hand advised me to hand rotate a spindle that has been sat for more that a few days to ensure some lubrication is on all of the contact faces before running it up, this is probably more important on an oil lubricated spindle, I can’t recall right now if the Eagle is intended to be greased.I too have my working SG on a slow ramp up. Mag chuck ages it looks like you have a good one. Looking forward to your next vid.

Thank you. I've been buying the machines as I find them and I give each one a complete overhaul.

Thanks! It's an Elliott model 00. It's smaller than a Bridgeport but big enough to be useful. The slab mill is a great cutter, the helical teeth cause less "hammer" on the workpiece than a straight toothed cutter. Depth of cut is limiter by the single overarm support bar though. Take a deep cut and you can see the 3 inch solid bar bending! Then it chatters horribly. Yes, I had the doors open for this video. Dual carriageway not far away.

Thanks. I agree with you about losing the accessories. However the mic can be used as a depth mic without them so maybe thats what happened and they got lost in the junk.

Thanks!

Shame you didnt get that machine. I would have been very interested in the drivetrain. It looks like I'll probably have enough topics to cover in a follow up video on this lathe. I have a bunch of still photos too from where I stripped it down, so I can add them in too.

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Cool, thanks. I'm in one of those situations where one has to build the machine to make the machine that makes the machine. Yeah, I almost blindly bought it, knowing it would be difficult. The guy was super nice, owned a huge machine shop, he was showing me around and he had these two story high presses, maybe six of them, he said he bought just so they wouldn't be potentially competing. The screw machine was very similar to the picture shown originally, approx. 6'x6'x5', looked awfully heavy, but the learning and no need for a hardware store. Now, would be the time to have one, just the other day I bought a couple of small set screws and the cashier misspoke and said $73.10 instead of $7.31 and I told her, Boy Howdy, we are in the future!

I considered it but there's not a lot of clearance beneath the belt as the camshaft motor is under there. As for moving the pulley mechanism with the headstock, I considered that too but it just moves the problem onto the next belt.

Know what you mean, great job nonetheless

Thanks. Yes, it's a bit different. I thought I'd share it for posterity if nothing else. There can't be many (any?) others in existence now.

Yes, it just might be the only example left. It would be criminal to scrap it, hence the efforts I've put in to get it going. I can't disagree with you over the headstock lock. Its possible I've missed something as I seem to learn a bit more about it every time I work on it.

Thanks! I don't think anyone has seen one before, and if they have, I'd love to meet them and learn more about it!

Isn't it just! I just wish I had more info on it. It's not serial number 001, so other examples must have existed once, but it seems, based on my internet searches, to be the only one still going. Unless you know different😁!

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Hi again, unfortunately I have never seen the likes of your machine. Hopefully you will find another one or two still lurking out there somewhere. Good luck.

Thank you! It has tested my perseverance I'll admit. I've come close to giving up following a number of failed attempts to get it running. As for how many threading masters it came with.... absolutely none! All disappeared long before I acquired it. The 20tpi hob and follower were made by me. I will probably repeat making one on camera soon (previous one was before I started this channel seriously) as the follower is an interesting setup.

Thanks. I thought this might be a bit different to the usual offerings on youtube!

Thank you. The drive train is half bodge, half necessity to get it to function. As for finding how it was done originally, I think the drive belts were much longer. I do have an original intermediate pulley with a swivel mount, but it needs a really deep front to back depth to work and I wanted something far more compact. There is no info on the web anywhere I could find. Google it and all you'll find is a posting on mig-welding.co.uk, by... uh, me!

Glad you liked it, thanks! Yes, it's a bit different. I wish I could find more info on it.

Thanks Michel. I've been playing with this, on and off, for 4 years to get it functioning!

Thank you very much!

Thank you! I'm still not sure what I'll do with it when (if) it ever gets finished. It is indeed an ingenious mechanism. I hate the slipping clutch though, it just seems a bit of an afterthough as its just a spring washer bearing on a small area of the end of a hardened shaft.

Funnily enough, I bought the lathe off a chap who had a garage full of ornamental lathes. I think he was the president of a society dedicated to such things. I never got into ornamental turning, although to my surprise I have a copy of that book!

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop makes sense thats a clever piece of equipment that wouldn't be out of place in an ornamental turners collection. I want to do some decorative metal work along the lines of that but am probably going to do a it with an spirograph set and a pantograph engraver. Is it a project machine for you or are you looking to use it in a production capacity to produce parts?

@@ambisinisterengineering5242 I bought it a month or so into lockdown in 2020. It was intended to be something interesting to do whilst we couldnt do anything else. I'll get it finished then use it very rarely I suspect, unless someone wants hundreds of bespoke brass screws making!

I'm still amazed that people like these videos! Amazed, but very pleased. Thank you!

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop You are an excellent expainer of machine work without a load of bull that is often on other machining videos. Mechanical understanding is vastly under rated.As a home machinist with pretensions of adequacy it's easy to follow along with enough information to say why,not only how. Thankyou for sharing this with us!

Thank you! It's taken me over 4 years to get it running as the enthusiasm wanes at times.

Thats the only sort of use I could come up with for it! I guess I'd better make a 40tpi hob and follower for ME threads then!

Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching and commenting. The poster was advertised for sale on homeworkshop.org.uk. I spotted what it was and didn't hesitate! It brings a bit of colour into what would otherwise be a bit of a black, white and shades of grey workshop.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching!

SOHCAHTOA was the aide memoire we were taught. No complicated trig involved here fortunately. Thanks for watching!

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop we didn't have that SOHCAHTOA in Africa!

@@Jan_Raap Sine = Opposite / Hypotenuse, Cosine = Adjacent / Hypotenuse, Tangent = Opposite / Adjacent. I guess the names change in Afrikaans or whatever so the acronym doesnt work.

Thank you very much. I have been accused of being a bit like a school teacher, but if you want the ins and outs of "how to", thats how I'll appear unfortunately😁

I was going to do that on the first video on the TC grinder, but it got a bit unwieldy. I'll try and fit that in in the near future.

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I can imagine there’s a lot to cover, maybe you could just explain the relevant parts and if you made them that relate to the job you are filming. Don’t take this as criticism it just a suggestion I like your presentation style & content and you are helping me to understand the nuances of tool grinding. II seem to have a penchant for small T&C grinders first the Stent which isn’t completed but bears the closest resemblance to your Union, then the Kennet which I have restored and is serving me well with more accessories to make and last week I picked up a Worden at a bargain price that needs work.

You're welcome. I've spent quite a lot of time making fixtures and having a good grounding in trigonometry makes life easier. I've resisted showing some sharpening like drills as its easy to put a basic shape on the end but I've been trying to split the point too and my results arent consistent enough yet. If you have a horizontal mill a TC grinder is a must. Used cutters are cheap and easy to sharpen. I'll cover those in a future video.

Not quite. The angle gauge gives a (relatively) precise rotation which, without the table being rotated, gives the clearance angle. As the table is rotated the clearance angle you grind changes - at 90deg there is no clearance! That was what my garbled explanation was trying to convey. Without the angle gauge you are right that you would need to calculate the drop to work out the clearance, but the jigs I have avoid me having to do that. Thanks for commenting. I thought a bit of trig would put viewers off!

@@ThePottingShedWorkshop So rotating your ANGLE GAGE is causing the cutting edge to DROP the proper vertical distance. But this DROP distance needs to increase as the table is rotated to achieve the 7 degrees of clearance. As you stated, at 90 degree's table rotation, turning the ANGLE GAGE wouldn't do anything. It's clear as mud! Have a wonderful day!

Thank you!

Thank you! I wasnt sure TBH, but it seems to have been received positively.

Yeah, its a satisfying click! The reamer runs in the mill spindle and as I didnt have a 39/64 drill for the 5/8 reamer the starter hole was bored out with a boring head. The application was for a belt tensioner on the lathe I'll describe next week, not critical but the reamer makes a good result easier for the design I chose. As for the 45deg angle, I copied a commercially ground reamer! Thanks for commenting!

The center of the bore is dictated more by the initial hole that the reamer will try to follow. If you want a hole to be in a certain location by reaming, you need a jig bore reamer that doesn't have the 45 degree end on it.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Setup is the time consuming part. Once everything is up and running 5 to 10 minutes to clean up the flutes as long as theyre not too bad (ie. not badly chipped, just dull). Cleaning up the ends would take a similar time, unless you're grinding it right back and starting again on the geometry. Thanks for watching!

That's very interesting, thanks. Maybe I will bore it out and try again with a new bush turned in situ.