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@@sl5311 usually right around three or four on the Makita variable speed.

@@guardgilbert thanks! Subscribe if you can, we are planning on starting to post a bunch more content

@@JirafaBo definitely no arguments with that 😂

👍

A small sledgehammer works pretty well to pound them down. The Ramset should have a setting on it to go deeper and different types of shells depending on how far you need to go down.

Thanks!

Have you tried to heating the thread up until it’s red hot and unscrew while hot? That will usually work, if not yes you’ll need to re-thread.

If you come up with another solution definitely let me know, always willing to learn.

@@arrowheadtileandstone8973there is a galvanized “dresser coupling” that compresses onto a straight galvanized pipe with rubber gaskets. Then you can use a short galvanized nipple on the other side and thread brass, then copper onto that.

Thanks! We live and we learn

Thanks!

Yep it should attach to any angle grinder. The only thing you’ll want to make sure is that it is a variable speed. Technically you could use it with a standard grinder but it’s dangerous and spinning too fast. I’ve used it on standard grinders in the past but it is super risky and not supposed to at that high of RPM

You should make a video and post it, I’d love to see how you do it 👍

@@arrowheadtileandstone8973 old stone mason from London I dun lots of bullnose on Portland Stone York stone l limestone at end doing porcelain I would use a vanity blade top bottom on porcelain i make like a make a wedgie shape put full router on it padd it down 120 git 220 git 320 git finish it off I' no a little bit about it I wasn't criticizing I was just want to help 👍

Oh for sure! I wasn’t offended :) always ready to learn and improve

For these dry pads I usually stay around setting three or four which is about 6800 to 7800 RPM I believe. Keep it around level two (4000 RPM) for the profile wheel. I’ll double check the RPMs when I get back to the trailer later.

@@arrowheadtileandstone8973 i appreciate the response mate.

I personally don’t think you would have an issue as long as you use good quality modified thin set and the slab is scraped clean of all paint/etc. I would at least put a few ram set nails in each sheet, in the corners and a couple out in the field just to be safe.

@@arrowheadtileandstone8973 thanks for your reply - yeah I think I will go with a few ramset nails.

@@arrowheadtileandstone8973 also as far as products , would fiberock also work .

@@thekevinnorton I prefer hardibacker

I would feel confident with that method. I prefer to thinset the hardi down either way though

Thinset is a cheap and easy way to be sure!

This was red guarded for crack prevention. Some, white bodied subway tile is so soft you can get hairline cracks. Putting the redgaurd prevents that.

Aqaubar

That will work more than likely, it will take a lot longer though. It’s best to use thinset so it stops the hardibacker from flexing on the low areas.

Is there a reason you’re trying to put Hardibacker over concrete?

@@arrowheadtileandstone8973 my living room has carpet and kitchen has tile. I’m putting laminate through my house but after doing some minor demo on the ceramic tile. It’s just too much work and so much dust. After looking at your video. I could use 1/2 board to even the floor with the ceramic tile in the kitchen and I can just lay laminate over the tile. Wil that work?

Awesome ya that’s a good option.

Just use a modified thin set and ram set or concrete screws to keep it down until it dries. You don’t have to hit every 6 inches just the corners and a few in the middle until it dries. It’s a little different for tile but if you’re using LVP or laminate just tack it down and let it dry

Good question, the perimeter of the room is level, but the middle of the room dips down about 3/4 of an inch. So the perimeter of the room only has about an 8th inch of thin set. So using this method you don’t have to waste time and money on level quick, nor do you have to pull up any tiles to add more mortar while you’re setting.

This house had sections of concrete and raised foundation. Hardi wasn’t necessary I just happen to have a bunch on hand.

It basically went from raised foundation in the kitchen, to concrete slab in the dining room, back to raised foundation in the laundry.

@@arrowheadtileandstone8973 ,oh I see, that makes senses! 👍

The floor was severely out of level, the perimeter edges are sitting on the surface with almost no thinset. We had to use special thinset since it was being built up so high. This method is still much faster and cheaper than trying to level quick the floor or any of the other options.

Go down to Nina’s comment. The info should be in her comments

This one has half inch denshield screwed to the studs, then Aquabar on the denshield. Most of the showers in our area have a green board but this one has a denshield

accuglidesaws.com/p/alpha-profiler-b-series-b5/?gclid=CjwKCAjwieuGBhAsEiwA1Ly_neQgcCXfBPvs7U1PQB36MfjcGx4etioZIrMq0xyVdxeYBqBhgeHRKxoCWWkQAvD_BwE

www.amazon.com/s?k=3%2F16”+bullnose+profile+wheel&ref=nb_sb_noss

I don’t see the Alpha on Amazon but one of those other ones will work they just won’t last as long.

Ok, thank you

Alpha, from Dal Tile

Amazon has them if you don’t have a local Dal Tile or Tom Duffy.