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love how details the entire video is. Great jobs!

Funny that you recommend a metal pan over plastic because the plastic might get brittle and crack break sooner then the metal, but recommend the plastic water heater tank because it lasts longer than the metal ones?????

Done brakes for decades why in the world would you want to open the bleeder valve???that is not necessary at all, once you do that then you let air into the brake lines & will have to do a complete brake bleed on all wheels creating extra work.. I tell anyone who is watching this video do not open up the bleeder valve it is completely unnecessary just replace the brakes & be sure to keep the master cylinder filled to the full line on the master cylinder reservoir.

Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing.

I've seen two main complaints with these one (I think) from installer or shipping errors, and the other, a possibly bad design... the first is, I think a lot of installers accidentally torque the nipples and ruin their seal inside to the top of the tank, or, they sweat copper to them in place, and melt the connection at the top of the tank... you avoided that nicely. (or, the tank is turned upside down during shipping, and the nipples are crushed inward). I mention all that because, when you moved the tank around about 16'30" into the video... I can see the nipples being flexed back and forth because your "flexible" lines are less flexy than the nipples... hopefully nothing got damaged then... it makes me want to use braided lines with even less rigidity there... The other complaint I've seen is that Rheem doesn't seem to have the vacuum relief valve dialed in right... a lot of people have leaks there -- it should only allow air *in*... but instead it lets water out...

Surprised to see your electric box outside

does electric tank require vacuum relief valve??

Your video is very helpful. I have one question about expansion tank, where I can find if my house water is open system or closed system? What back flow valve looks like? Thanks.

I ended up buying the AmeriLite LED taillights just because they utilize all of the available space, even lighting up the lights attached to the trunk door

👍

Awesome video just changed my breaks for the first time…appreciate the content

Great video. Very thorough instructions. The only thing I noticed (That no one else mentioned).. The thread tape. I suggest not installing the thread tape all the way down past the last thread and into the opening. You could potentially have tape debris that can clog up something down the line. Put it all the way down with just the last thread exposed. Adding pipe dope may also be overkill.. But, I don't think that's negative. Just because I've never used both, doesn't mean you can't! None the less, good job. I'm jealous of your marathon.

A very impressive tutorial and video for how to do this job. Your descriptions are very clear with fine suggestions. Thanks very much for a fine presentation.

Not bad, but def needs a few comments: 1. There are bolt holes in the face of the rotor (at 12 & 6 o'clock in your video) that are there to pop the rotor off. You thread a (8mm?) bolt in the hole and screw it down and the rotor pops off. 2. As other's said, don't use the bleed screw, just push the fluid back into the master cylinder. And with your method, you now are low on brake fluid, and must add to get the level back up!!! 3. And as others said, do NOT push the cylinder with your C-Clamp; use an old pad so you do not damage the rubber gasket. 4. You might have emphasized that people MUST hang the caliper, and not let it dangle. 5. The rotor needs to be scrupulously clean!!!!!!!!!! Another reason to NOT use the bleed screw method, 6. People NEED to be warned that their brakes WILL NOT WORK until they step on the brake pedal a few times after replacing pads. Yes, you said to do it but people need to be warned that if they skip this and put the car in reverse, it will NOT be stopping!!!

How long did it take to heat up?

Excellent. Getting a Marathon 40 gal next weekend so this was very informative, thanks!

Is it necessary to use the wear pads

Great video! The plumbers in my area wanted to charge me $5k to replace my old elec HWH. Looking forward to purchasing this marathon model and installing it myself for significantly less.

One thing to note, the caliper pins are different, length and tip. If they are in the right location both should be able to be compressed.

you do realize that the 2 holes in the disc are threaded so you can screw the appropriate bolt in that will force the rotor off right?

You did an excellent job on showing everthing needed to do this. Did you use Toyota rotors or an aftermarket brand?

Very helpful,very helpful,i used your technique,with the bolts n wrench,to get the rotor off,I was having problems,and thought i actually had to go n rent a tool from the part store,but,thanks to your video,i worked like a charm,appreciate ya,it was giving me a headache 😮😮

Good video dude. Better how-to vid than most out there. -For first time soldering pipe, good job. (I've see worse from pro's for sure!) Next time, crank your torch. Much more efficient. If close to a wall, you can soak a flat board and hang it from a nail as a wall guard. Or, if you have it, a piece of steel sheet, hung on a nail. Just keep the sheet a good inch off the wall. -Do yourself a huge favour: Thread on a 1' length of flex pipe onto the tanks bottom drain spigot! It saves a huge PITA trying to connect a garden hose to the valve as its really tight to the bottom of the tank. Have a second garden spigot at the other end so you can use that and leave the tank one open. Way, WAY easier to do the annual tank draining! Don't use rubber hose or plastic pipe as they can fail too easily. Good with metal like as the top of your tank or braided flex supply line, like used to hook up a dishwasher. And either lock out the valve, take the handle off or thread on a plug cap to prevent accidental valve opening.

Great video. Liked the mechanical bolt system to press out the rotor. Most shop mechanics just sledge them off, which probably is ok, but more caveman like. I did crack the bleeder, made it easier to compress the cylinder, worked great. I never used to do that lol. Great tools list, saved me time hunting for stuff. This wasn't my car, so first time doing a Camry. The pad wires are cool, my cars don't have those.

Good job 👏

Dope vid

This is great, thank you. I especially like how you got the brake pads in! Please do a video when you change your rear brakes too! Thank you.

the holes on the rotor are for you to screw in a bolt that will help brake the rotor free :)

Excellent instructions thank you

Well done!!!

Very impressive video, very helpful and educational. Simple, too, for kids to understand.

I watched other videos with people saying they are plumbers, but your video is more thorough and well instructed! I am not buying that expensive plastic tank water heater or doing any soldering , but your video is very informative!!!!!

This video saved me $1800.00 in installation charges. Installed a Marathon 50 Short yesterday. Thank you.

classy review! keep it up🎉

Squirting brake fluid on your pads was not good, otherwise you did a good job for a first timer.

What were the specs of the bolt and nuts needed for the rotor trick?

Great video. I’m a professional mechanic. I have done thousands of brake jobs. Your video is great. Just make sure to clean the hub with a wire brush or hub cleaning tool and use anti seize behind the rotor. One thing you did that I had never seen before was using the nuts and bolts to push against the back side of the rotor. Good idea. Normally when people take them off with bolts you drive them in with the two threaded holes in the front and it will pull it right off. Also my preferred method for compressing the piston is too just take loose the master cylinder cap and push them back like that. Keep the bleeder screw closed it’s a lot less mess. And definitely look into the right size wrench for the bleeder. Take it from me I’ve rounded off and broke off plenty of those before a precise wrench is a must. Just offering my suggestions for next time and that hopefully helps you out. I think it’s great to learn to fix your own car. 🙂

Please make a video on toyota avensis please

Great video and very informative!

Why install all 5 lug nuts when removing the rotor? You only need to install one lug nut just by a few threads. Afraid of damaging the rotor face? Who cares! Your replacing it anyways, hit that sucker as hard as you can from the rear face

This is awesome great help.

First time changing my brakes and I did a great job thanks to you really appreciate it

My foot brake was on while changing rear brakes. Will that damage something?

Thank you! first time I’ve changed my brakes and the only problem i had was two broken dust caps for my brake fluid.

Thank you very helpful 👏🏻💪🏼🙏🏻

I would compress the caliper piston first before installing the new pads and rotors. You probably contaminated the pads with brake fluid. Great video…

You sound like Joe Rogan

I installed a Marathon 5 years ago. I must thank you for refreshing my memory on the connections as I will be installing another one in my rental unit this week. BTW I love the marathon tank!!! Hidden fact is electric hot water heaters last twice as along as gas...plumbers here in the Chicago are want $2200.00 to install a $499.00 6 years gas. (product cost....no thanks....just swapped out an electric one in a rental that was installed 23 years ago....have another electric one bought in 1998 still going strong....lucky I get 6 years out of my gas water heater.

I’m lookin at either auxbeam,auxito, or these lasfit 7443R brake light bulb: The lasfit are excellent with 700 lumens. But for a pair of $56. U get what u paid for. But auxito has a lot more options that less bright than this but still brighter than stock. And some from auxito has 1600 lumens: I feel like the 700 lumens is still enough lumens and enough red intensity for red lens. Just price completely difference. 😊

Very good video very clear thank you