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One thing I like to do when crimping high current cable lugs is to order extra and to a test crimp on a piece of wire. Then saw through the connector at the middle of the crimp. It should look like one nice solid piece of copper. If there are any voids then it means it's a bad crimp and/or mismatched wire/lug sizes. I once saw this done on a gigantic 500mcm cable that had the wrong size lug, the electrician told me it was NFG and you could see some gaps around the edges.

How much power will the Lexus transmission output?

Could you fill the t connector box with something like a potting substance?

Very elegant solution, sure what could go wrong? I eagerly await chapter two

Use a threaded adapter and a cable gland to make a watertight seal on that conduit tee.

TE = Tyco Electronics. Tyco Electronics Is Now TE Connectivity Ltd.

I can identify with the shoes. That ended up being a nice package, lets call it better than O.E.M.

No expert but, it strikes me that the cables where designed for the amount of current the motor would draw not the amount that could be supplied by the source pack. Maybe someone like Damien Maguire (he's the electrical engineer after all) will comment and educate us all. 🙂

Assuming you have the two packs at the same voltage before connecting them and ensure they are both fused at the packs this should be OK. For extra safety you could put a contactor on each positive cable before it leaves the pack but could this see one pack voltage drifting away from the other if the car was not used for an extended period? Probably not but worth checking into. The inverter is controlling the current, not the battery packs so the Sbox will be OK so long as you keep the current draw sensible.

Chuck Norris is able to slam a revolving door.

99 Percent of batteries sold in the US are made by a company called Clarios, they used to be called Johnson controls. What differentiates them is going to be the warranty from where you bought them, but whether you buy the battery at O'Reilly's, AutoZone, Advanced etc, it's going to most likely be the same battery.

I consider this half a car.

Awesome! Did you use a conversion kit or piece the components together yourself? I have a '78 I want to convert.

Hello Greg, when the zombie goes into charge mode i presume it sends can bus message to outlander charger but does it also send can bus message to the Sbox to close the contractors. Have you got the twn units on CAN 1 Thanks Kevin

what is the preferred exchange rate for free tesla VCUs in quantities of bmw unobtanium, isascale modules, or finetuning of arduino sketches controlling reverse engineered components?

120 miles is certainly good, I'd like 180 miles, but I'd like more pack for more available volts and amps when the pedal is on the floor and may do a little of drag racing. Its a tank of a car, and may have 3 packs in it (trunk, gas tank location and under hood). The contactor box(es) is going to be my biggest challenge. What gauge wire are in those boxes? Even the GS450h factory wiring always looks small to me for the power running through them and figuring at some point I'll be making my own cables and ends. But baby steps, get the car running on electricity first with a local battery under the hood! Thanks Greg!

ISMO Super Excited ruclips.net/video/SbXmGgJePsk/видео.htmlsi=yh9NN5EnHoFpef8F

Could the Lexus inverter handle the input from both packs in series? That would simplify the safety box layout, although it’s probably outside its design parameters…..

For a project car 100 miles is a very reasonable range to aim for, That's the range of my car on a good day but I have only driven that far once. Fast(ish) charging would be nice but is still on the to do list so I don't like to drive more than 40 miles from home. The only issue with the average miles per day stat is most people don't drive every day so knowing how the average is calculated is important. You know the old saying. "There are lies, damned lies and then there are stats."

100 miles is fine

Excellent! Very interested in how you are going to connect to the safety box. Have you scoped out how the 24kwh BMW X5 battery pack does it? 😊

You will melt the contactors in one safety box. You now are running 2x motors + 2x batteries through one box designed to do +/- 85kW.

It must be difficult, but keep on with the creative intros - love them. Well done battery video, thorough yet gentle, like a good laxative, as they say. I'm not using the same hardware as you but I can always learn something that will help with my build. Thanks for your efforts.

I love how it came out. I wanna do the same with a ford ranger and the gs450 transaxle, i’ve had a gen 3 prius inverter sitting in my shop for years now 😂

Another abandoned, rotting shell rescued. Well done!

Sounds great Greg 👍

Time to hit the road! Great job 😊

according to rumour (from a chap in Yorkshire), you need to upgrade to zombie to enable blended mg1/mg2 apparently that gives you a turbo lag for some extra fu8n :)

Nice work mate, looking forward to seeing what improvements you get on the road. Do you have regen with standard VCU software? I have a very similar VCU that was designed for the Mk1 Nissan Leaf and based on the Arduino Due so I'd be interested in seeing how the Regen is configured.

I nominate Greg for transport secretary.

Looks like you nailed it! You mentioned regen, is that what's causing the wheels to briefly turn the other way after releasing the accelerator? Is that just happening because there's no load or does the truck want to back itself up a few inches if you regen to a complete stop?

Impressive progress. Looking forward to seeing the new shifter.😎

Can you swap the 9kwforthe13kw I am looking at upgrading to the later battery do I need to do anything special

I used it in my all cast-iron 1996 ford 4.9 When I replaced my water pump and could see inside the engine coolant passages it looked like new...clean and no corrosion or deposits. I would recommend it for all iron application.

Great perseverance and super strong result! But…what have you got to say about using your good table for shed work?🙁

Excellent video! Planning to use BMW pack for my classic VW Beetle conversion, so this is invaluable info. Will need to catch up on your other videos now :)

Yeah I have destroyed a lot of hole saws that are 'supposed' to work in metal. Then I found myself needing to drill a very accurate 1.5" hole and I bought an 'annular cutter'. Holy cow that thing is AMAZING. The hole looked perfect and it cut better than anything else I have tried. The things can be a bit expensive but I will never look back. The only thing is they don't use a pilot drill bit like a hole saw does, so you need to get centered on the hole first, then swap to the annular cutter and cut the hole.

Awesome success! Those spacer plates are VERY substantial.

I also want to say despite your setbacks your videos are making me antsy to start on my Thunderbird conversion....

I've never had a hole saw work in metal to my satisfaction. A problem every.single.time. I bought a plasma cutter to rough in circles then finish with a die grinder. Which also sucks.

The Greg, over engineering everything for no particular reason. 😋

happy new year)

I love this ❤!

Proper order!

Best gauges are the glycerin filled

Parallels my life. I don't get it, I've cut it twice and its still too short.....

As an armchair expert I would have 3D printed an alignment doohickey or done some kind of triangulation based on the perimeter dowel holes. Also, can't tell if you used oil when drilling out the holes. That helps.

This issue will be easily fixed with bigger drill bits. 😉 Don't ask how I know. 😋

I feel your pain!

Using that punch to scribe the circle was brilliant! Is there no way at all for those bolts on the outside to stick out without ruining how the brace fits on there? This may be a terrible idea but what popped into my head was to drill the holes in the plate over size (maybe 1/8"?), press some wheel studs into the ninja star and then put a nut and washer on the outside of the plate. That way you could install it with the nuts slightly loose so the star can move around and 'find center' then just tighten the nuts on the outside and you're done.