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Thanks! We love it out in the country!

Great question! At near freezing it defrosts pretty often...think about snow/sleet accumulating on the unit. When it gets much colder than freezing it seems to defrost a little less often. I believe there are sensors that detect when the unit is performing less than optimal and initiate a defrost cycle once its much colder. All in all the defrost cycle only lasts 3-5 min max.

The outdoor condenser model number is MUFZ-KJ18NAHZ

3kw is a hell of alot better than 20kw electric resistance heat, besides what’s the difference in 1.5kw running for an hour “modulating down” vs 3kw running for 30 minutes

You know absolutely nothing, do you? Mitsubishi will always be a better option than any Chinese heat pump. Scandinavians heat their homes almost exclusively with Mitsubishi Hyperheats (a few opt for Panasonic Heatcharge units instead), and they're getting the same amount of cold as Canada does. Chinese units (i.e. Gree and the various Midea OEM users like Mr Cool and Pioneer) are the ones with bad compressor modulation. The one thing you're correct about is that single units are more reliable than multisplit units. After a certain temperature (below about -30C/-20F) there's only one way to heat properly, so this whole discussion about heating methods becomes completely irrelevant. And that is, believe it or not, WOOD. Not gas, not heat pumps, not even coal boilers on radiators, but a plain and simple wood stove. It's completely independent from electricity in the worst case scenario of the energy grid failing (boilers have an electric pump to circulate the radiator fluid, heat pumps are obviously all electric, resistance heating is too), and it's what'll save you from certain death.

All heat pumps should be doing the defrost automatically. You probably have an issue with the outdoor unit PCB.

I will do so as extreme temps make their way into Ohio! Thanks for your reply!

This is air conditioning... Air conditioning is heat pumps moving heat around. In the winter they move heat from the outside to the inside. In the summer they move heat from the inside to the outside.

I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees instead of just one bedroom.

Do you even have one? Electric bill is a fraction of what the fuel bill was.

@@newpylong I'm an installer. And in UK at least, your comment about cost is a complete lie. Latest info from from UKIFD: average annual heating costs for three bed house: kerosene £1323; gas £1583; ASHP £2935 (sept 2023) So absolutely zero payback time after a very costly installation.

​@@typhoon2827what is a ASHP

With a base pan heater it actually works great...without the heater I would say you are 100% right.

I hear you! We do burn wood as well. We use a WoodMaster outdoor furnace for our cast iron radiators as well as domestic hot water. The only utility we have is electricity so its either heating oil, propane, wood, or electric. The Mitsubishi heats our living area and the kitchen most of the time. The WoodMaster does the rest of the house. Its nice to have the versatility. Long term goal is to install more heat pumps in other areas.

I couldn't agree more!

Cheaper than firewood regardless of outside temp - I think. Search for True Cost of Energy Comparisons - Apples to Apples Published Mar. 2017|Id: BAE-1408 By R. Scott Frazier OKSTATE

I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period is about $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees with four wall units... instead of just one bedroom with a single Window AC unit.

I had my doubts about how much performance we would see when temps went that low too. I was fully planning on a similar output to what you mentioned (80-90°F) which is still very respectable. I was pleasantly surprised. Made me feel good about spending the extra $ on the Hyper Heat for sure.

@@w105bks I am looking at the Cooper hunter hyper heat model 36kbtu but maybe I should spend the extra money and get the Mitsubishi .

I have heard great things about Fujitsu as well. I would say your XLTH is a mirror image to the Mitsubishi too. Its amazing how well these units perform in the extreme temperatures.

I bet it works perfect in your sunroom! I'll have to look at mine to see if I have the vacation mode too.

So our house is pretty big (old farmhouse) and the walls are plaster so we need multiple Wi-Fi units around the house for penetration. In our case, the Cudy (on the roof) brings in the cellular internet (via a network cable) and then runs into another router that sends the internet to 4 access points (Unifi Mesh) located in various spots around the house. This gives us excellent coverage inside.

Oh NICE! You must have a sizable garage for sure if you are running two of them. I love the versatility of these units and how efficient they perform.

@@w105bks 30x40 with 14’ ceiling.

This unit has far exceeded my expectations. My use case may be different than some so I will describe our setup. Since we have a metal roof, which blocks cell signals very well I might add, we needed an external way of bringing cellular data into our house. By placing the Cudy outdoor router on a mast on top of the house and then running a network cable from the Cudy to the inside of the house we can broadcast the data via AP's (not Cudy) we have placed in various spots around the house. This way we have the best of both worlds...an external connection and the strength of additional AP's inside. The Cudy has been rock solid. It has full cellular bars and when I perform speedtests I routinely get 50mbs down and 15mbs up. For some that is slow but for us its better than we have ever achieved in our rural setting. As a side note...the Cudy does have onboard 2.4g wifi but we have turned it off because it will not penetrate our metal roof (which we expected) and is why we use the network cable instead.

Thanks for your comments Gary and sharing about your system and your experience with it. It's really fascinating to hear how others are integrating heat pumps into their homes because they are so versatile. Some use them for specific zoning and others rely on them 100% as their primary source of heating and cooling. You should be in pretty good shape using your 30k unit to cover most of the winter. Here in southern Ohio we do see temps in the negatives but not for very long...maybe a few days to a week or so here and there. Like you said when the sun comes up and the temps rise just a tad it makes it much easier for the systems take on the full load. In our home (built in 1850) we have several forms of heating. Mostly we use our OWB to heat water that runs underground into our house and supplies heated water for our old cast iron radiators installed in rooms around the house as well as our domestic hot water. The kids and my wife love the endless hot water for the showers lol. We also have a pellet fireplace insert we can run in our living room which is also where the Mitsu floor unit is installed. We mostly run the Mitsu to maintain the heat in the living room because of how efficient and cheap it is. Our last resort is an oil boiler which we haven't run for years now except to test it every now and then. Take care!

Great idea! I'll wait for it to get cold enough to get into a routine defrost cycle and will record what it sounds like inside. There is a swooshing sound but its really not too loud. From what I understand the sound comes from the switching valve reversing the flow of refrigerant to heat the outdoor unit so it can defrost. As far as the height of our condenser...we don't usually get a lot of snow all at once here in southern Ohio...we mostly deal with freezing rain and light snow.

I have the 4 room version 36KBTU yes it does make a whooshing going into defrost mode. Basically for a short period of time it switches from Heat mode to AC Mode pulls a bit of heat out the house to defrost/ice the outside condenser coils. Sometimes its a bit loud and sounds like its going to blow up off the wall as the gas/liquid refrigerant reverses direction...usually happens when its under high heat demand and needs to defrost and that reversing valve switches... other times I can barely hear it when it switches when the heat demand of the house is low

I totally agree. You can read the specs that say they heat well into the negatives but until you actually see it doing that it's hard to believe. Unbelievable engineering!

Yea mine will do that too. Wooshing is a great way to describe it for sure. Its completely normal and nothing to worry about. Its programmed to defrost as quickly as possible to get back to heating mode so it runs at full speed to do this.

It's normal.

Usually as the temperature drops, the efficiency (how fast it heats up your home), it will just take longer to do and than after about -35F, the efficiency will be so low that you should than turn on your Natural Gas (or propane, wood, or pellet) heater to continue the job until the temperature rises outside again. Usually those temp drops happen a few hours to a few days UNLESS you are in the artic regions.

@@mmenil1 ahh, thanks, I am in fingerlakes of NY, once and awhile it's can get to -10 but doesn't last usually for more than a week or so.

We just had temps that sat around -9 for a few days with wind chills around -30. It put out great heat and did not have any issues heating our room. I did a video of it running at -7 and showing it was still putting out 120 degree heat! Crazy...here is the video. ruclips.net/video/1LPrSdN5P7M/видео.html

We have standard vinyl windows and with them closed I can’t hear it in the house. I admit defrost it is a little louder than I anticipated because when its running in heat mode you can barely hear it at all. We love the unit!

Losing the POCO neutral is irrelevant. The generator neutral is still bonded to the grounding electrode system in the house at the main panel or first disconnect. Your generator will function correctly and safely. Crossed lines on the POCO will trip their circuit breakers. POCO also grounds their neutrals. The neutral to your home from the POCO is grounded at the main service panel or disconnect as well.