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but still slow it down a hair and you will be a true jedi...

oh sweet, yeah dude i was there dec 19-23. probably going back in january

@troytimmons nice, we must have crossed paths! I was there 12/18-22! Back in Oregon, where you from?

you're ... negativity ... is ... kinda ... bumming ... me ... out ...

@troytimmons not as much as that reality check of a ground fall will be for you

the first piece is placed just above the fracture line for the pillar, this thing falls over regularly and it's not smart to place protection low on free standing pillars. read gadds "Ice Climbing" or Banfields "How to Ice Climb". You can learn a lot from those if you're curious how the whole thing works.

@troytimmons ha..not curious.. I know Will...and knew him way before he was good enough to write about it. If you don't know who u are talking to...and they are trying to give u life saving advice...its best for you just to quietly try to learn from the advice than to type any kind of response... And Alex and I were playing on that in like93 or 94 or so....so there's that

@@sanjuanworm666 i get what your saying, if you had started with "i was playing around on that pillar with THE alex before you were born, and based on your shitty climbing technique you should've been on the ground in a pile rather than clipping the chains". I get that and i respect that. I'm currently operating on a string of confirmation biases so thanks for taking the time to instill some doubt in myself.

not dumb. ideally not by falling, near the end you see the anchor i clip into, there's already a couple quick links and a carabiner up there. I take one rope pull it through and then tie the other rope to it, then rappel on both strands. then just pull one of the strands and get the rope back

@troytimmons Thanks, you guys must have some awesome upper body strength.

The new beartooth picks are no joke, pretty sure this was the first day on my front points/picks after tuning them up.

Thank you very much! Felt really solid on this ones.

showa temres 282-02, and my other gear is also in the description

a fall would be very not chill. the shot at the very end shows how high the first screw was. i saw conrad climb it and put my first piece at the same height

stay tuned👀👀

well that's the easiest way to get mileage on 6s (climbing a 5 super inefficiently). thanks for the kind words

was so trippy watching them come down behind the new ice. natures lava lamp

ty! more to come

Thanks man!

been trying to be better about that on thin mixed. I gotta channel my inner master scratcher with the new picks

what's my paygrade? and what made this sketchy?

@@troytimmons Your footwork and movement. Moving quickly off of not so great feet when there are better options. The go pro does make it look like your gear is more spaced out than it is. You have more potential that 99% of ice climbers on youtube and your content is great. That FA footage is astounding. I would just work on your movement. Both sticks with tools and feet. Couple times your footwork simply does not look like a wi5 leader. Lack of deliberate precise feet. Some sticks with your tools are looking a little desperate too. You fitness is great but still breathing pretty heavily. I would want someone to be honest. Not trying to be a d. Good thing is you are close to being like an amazing, amazing ice climber.

@@user-ky4jp8jf2pi appreciate the honesty. If I waited to climb this thing until i could climb it perfectly i wouldn't have been able to climb it this season. It rarely forms like this and it's my first time truly limit climbing on lead for ice. The pump management in the section around the first screw was abysmal, so i agree with that but i didn't want to edit it out (maybe i should have) like cmon i chose a spot where i couldn't even put in the screw. This was the 4th day in a row where i led my new hardest climb (4- to 4 to 4+ to 5), but i was feeling psyched and went for it without ever feeling like i was gonna come off. The gopro doesn't really do justice to how the sticks feel in the ice especially on the hooked out holds. despite the chando it felt really solid. The scariest thing that day was seeing some of the old screw holes really low on the pillar. I like to climb fast which is a shock for most people on ice, if it feels good for bodyweight i move on the sticks, also i've been trying to stop overdriving my tools and front points cause most of the time is entirely unnecessary and is a huge energy drain.

@@troytimmons I gotchya. Im just saying from a risk managment position lol sounds weird but its true. So a couple times you are rushing and essentially moving off of one tool/foot cus the other foot/tool is either off or kinda pops. With ice you are going to have ice break and hit your tools/feet sometimes. It's also inevitable that a mediocre stick /fot will pop if you move too quickly off of it. So eventually you are going to fall. But I am thinking you will start to slow down next year and get even stronger/more cognizant. And also take what I say with a grain of salt Im really a trad climber more than anything.

so when ice breaks and hits poorly placed tools/feet they will pop I meant

these are the showa temres 282-02s

My thoughts as well

yeah i love that for cragging makes swapping TRs so easy! but it makes me feel a little squeamish on close quarter alpine climbs where i'm continually brushing up on the rock. Next time i'm in a party of three, we're definitely running fix and follow, that's so efficient

@@troytimmons I do that too and even for rock climbs to lower people to hit some harder routes from above if up on a multi pitch route. Cragging mulit pitch is a new skill haha... but no I meant for your ice tool lanyard. Its a great way to avoid the twists as a follower with those lanyards.

so good probably the best half's i've climbed on, compared to bd and beal. they're slightly more wirey like the single edelrid swift protect pro

yes brother, thank you for noticing my abysmal ice technique. please also find the description of the first ascent in the description.

You make gaming videos. Humble yourself.

That is the comment you have for this video lol... of all the things in that video you wanna be debbie downer lol its actually kinda awesome. awesome for humanity )

Beartooth Alpine Equipment Master Scratchers beartoothalpine.com/products/master-scratcher-no-hammer?variant=49472206635329

@@troytimmons Do you like them?

the anges set the bar wayyy to high

thanks! Yeah the cabinets have some of the best climbing in montana. This vid is a great tribute to the region-> ruclips.net/video/B3LdUEHyZAo/видео.htmlsi=S66uVZfEx3yhrhyt

def the best ice pick i've ever used (compared to camp ice and petzl ice picks). they also drytool extremely well.

@ love to hear it. I’m in Ouray and ran into a guy taking his Ice Instructor and he said the exact same thing. Looking forward to getting on them!

@@joshjoyner4271 my only advice is do not add pick weights and really dial back your swing. they are ultra sharp from factory and tapered to thinner than petzl PurIce. if climbing thin ice scratching and super light tapping is all u need. rock strikes will beak the tip (curling the ultra fine tip), but even if its beaked it still climbs better than a fresh stick pick and a quick file gets it good as new

yeah generally the most dangerous climbing in ice is up to the first screw. off a screw belay (like the start of the second pitch) it is critical to get a piece in to protect the belay, Will Gadds Book recommends a screw within 10ft to protect the belay as soon as possible. Off the ground is a little different and up to the climber, the longer you run it out before the first screw the less you have to place after to keep off the ground. Really good info and diagrams in "How to Ice Climb" Tim Banfields book and "Ice and Mixed: Modern Texhnique" Will Gadds Book. i read both before climbing the first time and they helped a ton.

@ okay great will check the books out. Stay safe out there bud 🧊

such good ice! 7 climbing screws and then 3 in the anchor, so one every 10m or so. (racked 13, so had 3 left) rewatching this it seemed like i placed just enough to stay off the ground🤘

let ice jesus take the wheel

thanks yeah even though it was bomber always good to throw a backup on. That's what i would want my partner to do! glad you're enjoying the vids, more to come.

thanks dude, im finally home for a few weeks lets hit lincoln sometime

Yeah i got a 2m section of it and replaced the 9mm rope that came with the connect adjust. The handling is butter smooth, and in 200+ pitches it hasnt slipped once.

Yeah hes seems world class...

hope you made it out this season!

ya know, i still think about this comment regularly...finally did some leading if u wanna check it out

i'm following on one of the two ropes so there was about 2x the gear placed by Adrien/Paul on leads, but still, they hiked the thing without placing much pro

thanks, these lads are like spider monkeys up there! made it camp to camp in 13.5 hrs

they're great boots functionally but the quality control is so so. many ppl who got some of the first batch report the boa stitching ripping off and i have had the left toecup crack, which la sportiva says is because 'your crampons are too tight' total BS. Warmth wise, they kept my toes toasty down to 0F or -17C and my feet were sweating like crazy in a recent 5C warmup. granted i was rocking the neoprene inner cause i left the insoles in the truck... i think it is the ultimate all season lower 48 boot. and could even work for some lower ele technical alaska trips if ur moving fast.

Nice! Hopefully the quality issues are also part of the fact that they are a new release and don't persist with the product!@@troytimmons

thanks jb! trained with the best😎