- Видео 13
- Просмотров 46 209
Lucy Howie | Sgùrr
Великобритания
Добавлен 16 янв 2023
Climbing and outdoor adventures with Lucy and Rob!
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A bit about Sgùrr - our online climbing shop.
In 2021, we completed the full traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye. Inspired by these wild and rugged Scottish peaks, we founded Sgùrr Climbing Shop as a way of facilitating our passion for climbing, mountaineering and exploration.
We are still a very small business and run Sgùrr from our home in Cumbria whilst also working full-time jobs. This means we are usually very busy but we always find time to squeeze in weekend climbing trips in our van. If you’re interested in what we do (and what we have to offer!) head over to Sgùrr Shop or feel free to email us at hello@sgurr.shop if you have any questions.
You can read more about why we started Sgùrr here: www.ukclimbing.com/forums/premier_posts/sgurr_why_we_started_our_online_climbing_shop-752906
~
A bit about Sgùrr - our online climbing shop.
In 2021, we completed the full traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye. Inspired by these wild and rugged Scottish peaks, we founded Sgùrr Climbing Shop as a way of facilitating our passion for climbing, mountaineering and exploration.
We are still a very small business and run Sgùrr from our home in Cumbria whilst also working full-time jobs. This means we are usually very busy but we always find time to squeeze in weekend climbing trips in our van. If you’re interested in what we do (and what we have to offer!) head over to Sgùrr Shop or feel free to email us at hello@sgurr.shop if you have any questions.
You can read more about why we started Sgùrr here: www.ukclimbing.com/forums/premier_posts/sgurr_why_we_started_our_online_climbing_shop-752906
A Multipitch Mountain Adventure on Kalymnos // Sgùrr
Part 2 of our week-long climbing trip to Kalymnos, where we tackle one of the few multipitch routes on the island, Les Copains d'Abord. The route entails 5 pitches of climbing at around 6a (some of which are more fun than others), and in classic Lucy and Rob fashion we get benighted once again.
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Visit our online climbing shop:
www.sgurr.shop/
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sgurr.shop
Music from Uppbeat
Subscribe for more climbing and outdoor content!
Visit our online climbing shop:
www.sgurr.shop/
Follow us on Instagram:
sgurr.shop
Music from Uppbeat
Просмотров: 4 118
Видео
Fighting with Fear & Tackling Tufas in Kalymnos // Sgùrr
Просмотров 18 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Part 1 of our week-long climbing trip to Kalymnos! We have wanted to visit Kalymnos for several years now, and finally got to go in November of 2023. Excited for a week of sport climbing on a beautiful Greek island, our hopes were immediately dashed when we found out we would be stuck on Kos (the neighbouring island) due to very strong winds. We eventually succeeded in getting there, albeit sev...
Searching for Exposure on Amphitheatre Buttress // Sgùrr
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.8 месяцев назад
In this episode we enjoyed a huge day out on Amphitheatre Buttress, a long mountain adventure that goes about Grade-3/VDiff on Craig Yr Ysfa. We were joined by our good friend Richard (a die hard boulderer turned outdoor climbing enthusiast) and only had one mishap involving our first major drone crash! Route stats: 16 km, 1154 m elevation gain, and a total of 8.5 hrs car to car. Subscribe for ...
Sends, Solos and Scrambles in North Wales // Sgùrr
Просмотров 10 тыс.9 месяцев назад
A climbing and scrambling trip on a beautiful weekend in North Wales. We explored some slate classics at Dinorwig, including Fool’s Gold, Seams the Same and Equinox, then headed over to Ogwen valley the next day for a huge day out on Amphitheatre Buttress. We were joined by our good friend Richard (a die hard boulderer turned sport climber) and only had one mishap involving our first major dron...
Getting Lost and Escaping Thunderstorms in Borrowdale // Sgùrr
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.9 месяцев назад
A weekend trip of baking sun, extreme rain, wild swims and some brilliant (but short lived) climbing. We joined my sister and her partner up in the Lakes for a relaxed couple of days exploring Borrowdale. Subscribe for more climbing and outdoor content! Visit our online climbing shop: www.sgurr.shop/ Follow us on Instagram: sgurr.shop Music from Uppbeat
A Cosy Climbing Weekend in Pembroke // Sgùrr
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.10 месяцев назад
A weekend spent ambling around one of our favourite climbing destinations in the UK - Pembrokeshire. We enjoyed some blissfully warm weather, calm oceans and, above all, beautiful sea cliff climbing. Subscribe for more climbing and outdoor content! Visit our online shop: www.sgurr.shop/ Follow us on Instagram: sgurr.shop Music from Uppbeat
Could this be England's Hardest Scramble? - Pinnacle Ridge // Sgùrr
Просмотров 3,7 тыс.10 месяцев назад
A grand adventure up Pinnacle Ridge, a brilliant Grade-3 scramble high above Patterdale on St. Sunday Crag. Completed as part of a link up of several Lakeland summits and beginning in the Glenridding car park. In total we ticked off Pinnacle Ridge, St Sunday Crag, Dollywaggon Pike, High Crag, Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn, returning via Striding Edge. Trip stats: 19.65 km, 1,475 m elevation and...
This is perfect to get hyped for Kaly again. Awesome filming and format with the voiceover and talking about your thoughts and struggles. Being a little too optimistic on sport routes is great btw.
No, I don't think PR is the hardest scramble in England. Easy Terrace and continuation on Dow, Ill Crag SE Face and Thor's Buttress in Upper Eskdale, Sandbed Gill in St. John's in the Vale, Kirk Fell Gill, Striddle Crag Buttress and Honister Crag are all harder and more serious than PR. But I do think that PR is the BEST scramble in England.
Rob here. That's a fair take! The title was posing a bit of a rhetorical question as "scramble" is a bit of a nebulous term. For example, would personally class Giant's Crawl on Dow as a 3S/3+ scramble as it fits my definition a route on steep rock that's possible (although not necessarily advisable) without a rope, although others would consider it firmly a climb and think of doing it without a rope an "easy solo" rather than a scramble. Equally on the other end of the scale - is striding edge really a scramble? Or just an exposed walk? Given the above, I doubt that there is objectively a "hardest" or "easiest" scramble - if you chose the hardest line on PR, e.g. taking the crux slab direct rather than via the corner, then the technical difficulty might surpass the easiest lines up the routes you mentioned. Equally you might class that line as "PR with VD variation on the crux pitch". Either way, it is definitely the most alpine of the scrambles in the lakes I have done and that 100% puts it in contention for the "best"!
@@SgurrClimbing Yep, interesting topic of discussion. All "definitions" of anything empirically real are "fuzzy" around the edges. I'd say Striding is an easy scramble, right at the bottom of the scrambling spectrum. At the other end of the scale, I'd go for your second take on Giant's Crawl - it's a low-grade climb that many competent climbers would be prepared to solo (same goes for Corvus). I don't think this can serve as a consistent criterion for classifying such climbs as scrambles, since a lot of climbers, including myself, are prepared to solo much harder climbs than that. My hardest solo was Kransic Crack Direct (HVS) on Shepherd's. I don't think that brings KCD into the realms of scrambling. Take it to the extreme and you have Alex Honnold soloing Freerider on El Capitan. To the vast majority of climbers that remains a very hard climb. It doesn't become a scramble just because someone has proved it is possible to solo it.
Good quality, awesome video guys. Really forward visiting this island soon. Anyone joining? :D
New to your channel, keep the videos coming
Thanks for the support!! Comments like this really are appreciated. We have two more videos in the pipeline and a ton of ideas, however Lucy tore her ACL about 3 months ago, and had ACL reconstruction surgery literally yesterday, so we are finding it really tough to actually film currently. Stay tuned, videos will start coming faster in the near future!
Beside the mentioned faulty belay from above, it also seem that you dont clip the rope to the anchor when leading on a multi pitch. If the leader the falls off before the first bolt, that will be a factor-2 fall straight into the belayers harness. That is not safe or pleasant.
Exactly! Or better the device could simply not arrest the fall because the rope pulls downwards on the device instead of upwards.
Great vid, really well filmed and edited. I get more scared on sport than trad! Really not sure why... probably something to do with being a control freak and not having placed the bolts myself!
Congrats!!! I’m only just watching this now but it’s still awesome 😅
what climbing app are you reading the route description from?
Thats the Rockfax app - its subscription based but the best climbing app for the UK. From the same people who run ukclimbing, if you're aware of that!
Looks to me like you're using your belay device in an "unbraked" manner when you brought Rob up at 6:50??
Your bloke really should be getting on harder trad routes than E1 given he's projecting 7b
Yous make it look like a walk in the park 😂 slab and notch looks on another level
This is going to bring back some memories for me. Did Amph Butt back in 2001. Approached from the Dolgarrog side, almost got eaten by an adder on the way in. Got to the base of the route, and discovered that not only had none of us (Group of 3) remembered to bring a guidebook, we'd not brought any food either.....Great planning from 3 instructors PMSL. Epic adventure that will stay in my memories forever!
What was the accommodation you stayed at?
It was called "Petra Boutique Homes". We ended up in the Family Suite Helios, which was an upgrade as we were the last guests of the Season (they close at the end of November) and also we were the only people staying in the complex that week
Well done guys. I've done Jack's Rake and Sharp and Striding edges, but that Pinnacle ridge looks a cut above! Especially if you wear hiking boots?!
I don't think it looks too bad apart from that last bit. Apparently there's bail out options if you don't feel confident.
Im sitting in China looking forward to going home (swansea) tomorrow. This video has made my day. Cant wait to get out there!
nice vid! Just make sure you don't clip biner to biner, like at 16min can cause a sketchy situation :)
Yep! I actually reclipped once past (not shown in video) I couldn't reach the draw from below the crux with the rope, but could with the draw. I know that it 's not ideal, since they can unclip themselves💀.
@@SgurrClimbing 🫡 fair enough! Looks like a fun trip
6:46 This looks like an incorrect configuration to belay a follower. Without a belay device that has a “guide mode“, hanging the device on the anchor will do nothing as the rope running over the carabiner will act as a pulley and the brake strand isn’t in the correct orientation if a fall occurs.
exactly my thoughts!
Didn't even notice that. My biggest concern so far was that they don't have a first QD clipped like at 11:33.
Really nice video!
The belay technique at around 12:00 is life threatening. Unless you have abnormal strength, you would not have been able to hold your partner if he were to weigh the rope. That is not how you belay from the top using a tubular device.
@nakkisormi8400 I left a longer comment on the other thread in this comment section, which responds to this issue generally. Thanks for your concern - we will be getting Lucy a guide mode device!
@@SgurrClimbing Isn't that a clickup? It should be auto locking.
@@Sackfullofbadgers Short section of the video was cut out - as you can see from the other comment threads, we had a slightly non-ideal configuration for bringing up the second. Cut it out since we realised people who hasn't climbed multipitch might blindly copy it hence why the timestamp is now confusing!
@@SgurrClimbing This is not really about the gear. You could easily rig a belay device without the guide function to belay from the anchor by clipping the brake strand higher than the belay device. Since you are both really good at climbing, it is just about understanding the skills you need to be climbing outside of a single pitch sport climb.
Excellent video. Stunning cinematography. I like the honesty wrt pitch three. And Rob makes me laugh every time.
12:02 could you describe your belay setup/technique at this situation? It looks like a tuber but not mounted in guide mode.
Hello! My ATC doesn't have the eye for guide mode, so I wouldn't have been able to put it into that configuration. The configuration at that timestamp is simply a direct belay off the bolts, it's definitely not as objectively good as an auto locking locking device or guide mode since it doesn't auto lock, however it has the advantage of being able to take slack a lot quicker (Rob is a fast climber on 5c pitches), and being safer for myself, as if Rob had fallen, the weight difference is significant enough that I physically can't stand. In addition you can give slack easily, unlike in guide mode where giving slack is fairly difficult. This video isn't a guide on multipitch belaying! We use a range of devices and techniques situationally, depending on the belay stance, difficulty of pitch and who is belaying/climbing. There are lots of ways to be safe, but the key is to be confident in whatever device and configuration you're using for a given pitch.
@@SgurrClimbing thanks for your answer. I was just wondering. I'm pretty new to multi pitch climbing (just did my first on kalymnos where I went inspired by your other video =)) and always interested in how other people do stuff.
@@SgurrClimbing Unfortunately an atc in this configuration is significantly worse than any other belay options you could have used in that situation. A munter hitch off the anchor would have been better, or using the atc on your harness. This is because the resistance that an atc offers relies on the brake strand of the rope being pulled in the opposite direction to the climber strand. in this case they are in the same direction, which is why its very easy to give slack, its also very easy to drop your follower on a fall. get a simple guide atc and you'll absolutely love it Thank you for the very cool video, I love to see multipitch climbs being done around the world, a true form of adventure
Same thoughts as the above comment. Alternatively, a redirect carabiner could be used so that the tube device was in a better position. Overall, a lovely video but you should do some more research on belaying from anchors. Hoping to repeat this route in the autumn.
It is a tuber not in a guide mode config. Do not do this it's like having the rope freeflowing over only a carabiner. This is basically a free solo unless this lady is abnormaly strong. Put the belay device on your self, then through the anchor(like a toprope) if you do not have a guide plate. Still I love the content, keep it comming Sgurr!
Insisting on doing things differently that will likely result in the sun setting before the adventure ends ✅ via ferrata on climbing gear ✅... I wonder if its a rob thing.... 🤔 At least you didn't leave your bags at the bottom 🐐🐐🐐
It’s on Craig Yr Ysfa.
You made that look easy, im planning on St Sunday this summer. How was the Crux section?
It's not too bad, if you're a confident climber you can do it without a rope (which Rob did), but I opted for a rope just to be on the safe side. It's quite short though and over very quickly!
What is the name of this climbing guid app?
Which route / area? If you share a timestamp I can tell you which crag is featured in that section!
16:29
@@sahralunge6503 ohh the guide itself! Thats RockFax. They do physical books, as well as guides - search "Rockfax Digital". They cover most of the UK, but also the popular areas in Europe. You have to pay a subscription of £5, but if you're going to an area that's covered (or generally live in the UK and climb) its 100% totally worth it.
It would be cool if they had nets built to catch you every 15 feet it goes up so you don’t need any gear other than chalk and maybe a helmet
sorry what?! thats absolutely mad haha
This may sound crazy, but something like this exists - its called Deep Net Soloing. A wall called Blockhelden has one!
@@SgurrClimbing well I’ll have to check that out. Thanks
@@SgurrClimbing oh indoors yeah that makes sense.
I've have the same idea except I imagine like a device that follows you with a magnet, and a harness with an opposing magnet. So when you fall you just float in place 🤔
Nice video, thanks for sharing. When a mate & I did this we took the cautious approach with rope & gear as VDiff is the top of his game. After the gendarme we breezed across the 'garden fence' feature as you did. After topping out we saw a couple taking at least 20 minutes on that section, they both did it roped up 'a cheval' & the young lady did not appear to be enjoying it!
I think fear is the thing that holds everyone back with outdoor rope climbing to be fair. You’re not alone 👍🏻💪🏼
It’s so comforting seeing how common the struggle of failure and falling is for us girl climbers!! We’re so much harder on ourselves! It’s so different from the guys I find, so I get your frustration so well!!! We were in Kaly last year and coming back 2024 too!!! ❤❤❤ hope you enjoyed all the places and visited On the road 😂😊🎉
Great stuff!! Looking forward to the next instalment 😀
Really enjoyed the video. Hopefully we can visit Kalymnos this year! Thanks for showing the ups and downs!
I really enjoyed watching this video. I've been keen to visit Kalymnos to climb so it has been insightful into the area as well as the travel. It's also very reassuring to see that it is not just myself who struggles with the pressure of challenging myself and the lingering fear. I'm trying different ways to target this so I wish you the best in either overcoming it or finding ways to climb along side it without it affecting you!
Enjoyed this a lot, will look out for more, thanks.
Great video, look forward to the rest 😁👍
Really, really great and inspiring video. It's beautiful that you are talking so openly about fear and expectations. How did you start to climb outside? I find it rather challenging to find "beginner routes" and experienced people who can guide me/us a bit.
Thank you for the kind comment :) Rob has been climbing outdoors since he was a kid and taught me whilst we were at university. Joining a climbing or mountaineering club is a good way to find experienced people, or you can use a climbing or mountain guide
Lucy, to let go of the fear, simply ask the rock if you might touch it and thank it when you are done. I have done this with every climb I did in Yosemite and never been hurt. ❤
Thnx for the video and the challenges you and all people who climb go through. I was going through similar challenges while there this year as well. We just missed each other there as my crew amd i left on Nov12th. Keep on climbing you 2🎉
Well done. Great video 👍
Loved it. You missed a trick at the end Rob - warm milk Yummm.
Epic
I never realized that the UK has such beautiful scenery and that you don't need to be a superstar to do trad climbing. As a Dutch sportclimber it is really cool to see potential travel options in the UK, I'm already fantasizing to come over one day, enjoying the view and start learning to trad climb. Thanks for the ideas :)
That's awesome to hear! The UK has such a variety of rock types all over the place, it's brilliant if you want to trad climb. We especially love the sea cliffs on the south coast like Pembroke and Portland :)
I snapped a fairly big piece off a hold once. I kept the piece of the hold that snapped off as a reminder to myself that I should never take climbing for granted, and I think about it whenever I consider free soloing anything at any grade.
I have had a very similar experience to yours. I think it's a case of always being aware of the possibility that the holds might snap, and climbing with that in your mind. It's not shown in the video, but I gave the more suspect holds a tap with my palm to check if they were loose before committing to them. I do this on exposed scrambles as well, and I have pulled off several loose rocks before!
Great video. I hope my stuff was as good.
Another top notch video. Rob’s vlog made me laugh, especially Lucy’s reaction to it.
Great video!
I wouldn't call it a scramble, it's graded as V.Dif and while not hard for the grade still demands care.There used to be a piton on the crux but that's long gone. For some alpine style fun do it under snowy conditions as I did with friends many years ago,
I also found the repeated use of the word scrambling alarming. It most definitely isn't a scramble and describing it as such could encourage less experienced folk to bite off a lot more than they can chew.
I would personally describe it as a grade 3s scramble, with a crux sequence going at VD. Grade 3s as defined in most guidebooks includes short sections of climbing up to VD in addition to the scrambling, which this route fits. However, I totally agree with your point here - anyone thinking about this route (or any scramble) should attempt it well-informed and adequately equipped for the route. To most novices, that means that this should be undertaken as a multi-pitch VD rather than as a scramble. This video is not a guide!
Looks really cool!
I live and have been instructing climbing, mountaineering, caving, skiing etc etc for some 40yrs. My two most memorable times on this route were once doing it in winter, the second time as a member of Ogwen Valley MRT spending several hours at night on a rescue. Your video brought back good memories, thanks.
Your videos are so well put together, very enjoyable watches. keep it up!!
"We've got time" just completely baseless claim to have additional knowledge of the weather 😂😂
enjoyed the video was that done recently as i would like to go to North wales, e1 was cool well done,