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marineengineparts.com/crusader-marine-22366-thermostat-housing-kit/

Thanks ​@@bluewaterdiy

Thank you. Probably that big ring gasket. Worth fixing!

As I mention around 8:00 the race bearing has a top and bottom. Leave one out, you'll know it. I believe the other remaining washer goes in around the last plastic part at the top, just above or below the top. Next time I will do a video as I take it apart. Live and learn.

Big and thin? Over the bearing if that is the case. Does the shaft turn ok?

I would assume that one is for moving the waste out of the holding tank?

no, you dont need to drain the ram. drain your lower helm first. assuming your lower helm is above your ram, the oil will stay put to the ram, unless you move it. however, the upper helm will drain down, so be ready for a quart or so. When you re assemble, put everything together and fill from your upper helm. turn the lower wheel 3 dozen times, then the upper. add as needed.

Your upper helm should have a fill port which is accessible from your console. Mine has a little plug in the fiberglass opening to the fill plug. Use a nipple with a hose to fill directly from a hydraulic fluid bottle.

@@bluewaterdiy Thank you! That's definitely a bit of good news! Did you refill with dex II transmission fluid? I know that's what's in mine now.

@@bluewaterdiy Also, did you still bleed the system through the Uniflow valve after you were done?

@@travelingwiththefishes2652 On a upper and lower unit, the air will work its way to the top when you turn the weel back and forth. You dont need to touch your ram, or any valv3s at all. Use a clear hose to add hydraulic fluid, leave the bottle hooked up. As you turn back and forth you will see the air come out. Start with lower helm, then go up top. Do each station 20 times. Bounce the wheel at the rudder edges, you will see the air come up.

Buy the rebuild kit, it comes with all of them. The one that leaks the most is the little one for the steering stiffness. If you do one, I would do them all.

Yes that’s my plan to replace them al. I am searching for the rebuild kit but I can’t find it. Do you have a link?

@@tjerryramlal8603 www.go2marine.com/seastar-capilano-helm-pump-seal-kit-hs5161

@@tjerryramlal8603 Of course, check your particular model. But 1250 kit will work for 250.

What does the washer look like? The bearings inside the pump have a thin broad washer that goes over them. Likely that one. ? I'll look for the diagram, I did have one.

@@bluewaterdiy not the bearing guard form inside . Is there a washer between the turning shaft and the plastic seal that goes over the o ring?

@@notsnhoJboR Its been awhile, but I dont believe so. I also checked diagrams and didnt see a washer there. Could it be a washer from the nut holding on your wheel?

@@bluewaterdiy think so, but wanted to make sure

Sorry, I do not. Your local marine shop should though.

Awesome, you made my day.

Sorry i missed your comment. usually its the adjuster that leaks. if i remember correctly, you have to take the lid off. maybe you nicked it installing?

@@bluewaterdiy no problem at all. I actually took them apart and serviced them and replaced the shaft seal. the leak again stopped for quite a while. I went away for a few months with work and when I got back there was evidence of leaking again. The leak is definitely coming from the shaft as I can see the track. On both of these pumps there were no seal on the inside of the face. do you know if there is supposed to be or do you think once could be added? Thanks again

In the end I found a rubber seal maker who made a 1mm flat disc that I put on the inside of the cover and this stopped the leak.

Thank you, I appreciate that. It's still going stronger than ever! Let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you. I try to be more useful than pretty. :-)

@@bluewaterdiy hey I noticed you said you are on the Sac river. Me too where are you located? I’m 2 miles north of Virgin Sturgeon. I have an 85 Bluewater.

@@debrisbox Small world Well the boat is actually in the Delta, on the Moke. but I live on the Sac too, 2 miles north of you on Garden Hwy. If you havent already, check out the Bluewater Owners, Users, and Fans Group on Facebook too.

Yep much of the parts are. I wish there was a good translation list. I dont have a problem finding Crusader parts though honestly.

When you turn the wheel it doesnt move at all? Or only in one direction? Do you know if your rams can move?

One side will put out oil and the other side will want to take in oil. Probably drips because an absence of pressure. Did the units turn before you installed it? If the bearings are put in wrong, it wont turn. But it wont turn prior to install. If it did turn ok, then you are probably right, you have some valve or nipple not passing oil. In other words, think of the hydraulics as a loop. If you turn one way, it sends out oil and must accept oil on the other side. If the loop is plugged, or hydraulic ram has failed and not passing oil, the pressure on the outbound side will seize stopping you from turning. Id probably hook up one side, and take the back side of the ram off. Can you turn the wheel then. Do the opposite and turn the opposite way. Can you turn then? In other words, eliminate the ram as an issue. They can be a problem.

@@bluewaterdiy It does not seam like a drip, it is more like about 1/4 of the volume of the other side when the wheel is turned one way and I have a bleed tube on both ram nipples. Would the check valve in either side of the helm cause the helm to pump down both lines if they failed ? I will try your recommendation today and tell you what happens.

Remember, the system is gravity based. If you open the lower unit and the upper unit is full of oil, you'll get the oil down below. My particular installation has disconnects in the oil lines that once disconnected close off to prevent syphoning from the upper unit. They look like air hose connectors, the outer ring pulls back to release them. So, to answer your questions, maybe but it depends on your setup. The upper being bumpy might be an adjustment (the little knob) or possibly low on oil. You can add oil to the back on the upper unit.

@@bluewaterdiy Thanks for the info! I have added oil to the top helm (2+ litres) while spending a lot of time spinning the helms while also opening the bleeder screws on the ram. I will look for these connectors and hopefully this system has them. Otherwise I will prepare for a bucket full of transmission fluid to come pouring out.

@@BigJohnBates Plumbers sometimes rely on a vacuum to keep liquid inside, so there is always that. If there is no make up air inside the upper unit, it might not pour out even if you dont have the disconnects. Im with ya, I have nice carpet, dont take the chance. :-)

unfortunately, this was done a while ago and everyhing is back installed. I believe the main shaft seal can be replaced without taking the "lid" of the unit off, but I cant remember for sure. Take your wheel off, then the cap should come off and show you the outside seal. Worse case you might have to take the "lid" off, but not pull out the guts. This is possible, but if the lid comes off you have to change the lid seal. Its a bigger seal that seals the lid the the carcass of the unit.

@@bluewaterdiy Thank you for getting back to me. I will check. l

What is your problem? I cant find an earlier comment

@@bluewaterdiy You can contact me at Facebook too:

Run the steering wheel back and forth like 20 times. then go to the fly bridge and do the same. If that doesn't solve it check your hydraulic pistons for smooth movement.

You mean the rubber plug? The big one is either 1.5 or 1.25" I think. I cant remember on the smaller one.

@@bluewaterdiy Oh, sorry, I should have specified. I meant the brass plug that you said you got at the auto parts store. Is that 5/8?

@@Brettski94 OH shoot, I don't remember. What I do is I buy three sizes, and take the ones back that don't fit. :-)

@@bluewaterdiy No worries. That’s what I’m going to do too. Haha Thanks for the response back!

Thats a good question, dont know. Fairly standard looking though. Not sure I can find a name, but will try and get back to you.

Depending on the age, it could need some force. If I remember, I think I loosened the bolts, lifted the plate, then rubber mallet the shaft to force it out. Equal pressure is important.

You are welcome!

SeaStar HS5161

Sure, how can I help?

After getting the obvious air out of the ram (open the bleed, turn the wheel) and get out the big amounts of air. Then close it up. Move the to main con, and turn the wheel back and for a bunch. 20+ Then move to the fly bridge and repeat. The fly bridge is the upper pool, and the air can escape there. Start turning back and forth *all* the way. The air is usually trapped on the outer limits of the wheel. So bounce it on the edges of the wheel. The air will work up to the top, and come out.

@@bluewaterdiy I'm not certain where the bleed valve is. There isn't one on the ram.

@@kingg213 So your ram has two hoses. Depending on which way you turn one is moving oil in, the other is moving oil out. Turn your wheel all the way to so that when you turn it back, the oil is pushed into one side of the ram. On the other side, take off the hose. Put the dangling hose into bucket of the oil. Turn the wheel. When you turn the wheel, the ram will push out air, then eventually oil. When the ram squirts out oil, stop, reconnect the hose which has been submerged in oi. This will get the majority of air out of the ram. You can repeat the other direction. After all this, then go do what I mentioned above.

@@bluewaterdiy Thanks, I'll give it a try. Appreciate your quick response.

How come we don't see you handle the sea around the shaft. You point at something but that doesn't show much.