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Hi, no we still have the NC17, it’s tucked away in the garage, waiting for better weather.

Hi Jannes, yes I believe it is the earliest form of Vtec. Explained in this link www.autoevolution.com/news/hondas-vtec-system-explained-20338.html

Yes it can Nicholas.

@@classicmotorbikeenthusiast7287 when reassembling how tight do they go back on I can’t find a spec. I tried tightening down all the way and it seems like it’s torqued down to much bc the push rod doesn’t seem like it’s disengaging the clutch. Like the pads are stuck bc of how tight it is. And there’s literally no pressure on my clutch handle. It goes into gear but when clutch is pulled in on gear the wheels are still spinning and will eventually stall out. Or if you try to roll the bike in gear with clutch pulled in it won’t. I tried listening the four main bolts on the clutch and it helped with the pressure on the lever but still wheels move with clutch pulled in gear and that’s an issue. Everything was fine before I pulled everything apart to replace the pads with new ones. I was dealing with some slipping at high rpm’s which is why I even started to replace them. Did I everything in the same order as taking them off. What am I doing wrong? I’m about to just put the old ones back on and pray it’ll go back to the way it was. I’d rather have a slightly slipping clutch then a bike that can’t even roll out the driveway lol pls lmk thanks

Also tried messing with the three adjustment points and still no luck

@@TheDANIEOROZCO When reassembling the clutch, it will need to be adjusted. Firstly though, please check that you have put everything back in the right order and the bolts need to be tightened/nipped up, as it is the springs that create the pressure for the clutch plates. Here is a blown up diagram of the clutch for you to refer to images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb200-england-right-crankcase-cover-clutch_big00025862e03_0471.gif If the link does not work, search for CMSNL and put your model bike in and select the image with the clutch on. Check that the clutch friction plates slide freely in the clutch hub and are not snagging in the slots. For the clutch adjustment. 1. Check the clutch lever for free play at its tip (Specified play: 10-20mm) 2. To adjust the play, loosen the lock nut and turn the upper adjuster into the lever under the locknut, so that the cable is slack. 3. Turn the lower cable adjustment (where the cable enters the casing) loosen the locknut and screw the screw into the engine. 4. Remove clutch cover, two screws, this will reveal the clutch adjuster lock nut (part numbers 53, 35, 28 & 29 on the cmsnl diagram), loosen the nut. Then turn the adjuster in a clockwise direction, until you feel resistance or it comes to a stop. Then back it out 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, then tighten the lock nut. 5. Rotate the clutch cable lower adjuster until the play at the tip of the clutch lever is 10 - 20mm, tighten the lock nut. 6. Minor adjustment is done by turning the clutch cable upper adjuster 10 - 20mm at the tip of the lever. 7. Check to see that the clutch is working correctly. I hope that this solves your problem, please let me know how you get on. :)

@@TheDANIEOROZCO When putting the clutch back together, you need to adjust it. First I would check that everything was back in the right order. If you have a look on the CMSNL website, you can search and get a picture of all the clutch parts, blown up in the order they go. Best to check that the clutch plates move freely in the clutch basket and are not snagging in the slots. For the clutch adjustment, do the following 1. Check the clutch lever for free play at its tip. (Specified play: 10-20mm) 2. To adjust the play, loosen the lock nut right back by turning anticlockwise and then turn the upper adjuster clockwise, into the lever, until it will no longer go any further. 3. Loosen the lower locknut right back where it goes into the engine. Turn the lower adjuster in a clockwise direction , as far as it will go. This loosens the cable. 4. Remove the clutch cover ( 2 screws) and loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut on the actuation lever. Turn the adjuster screw in a clockwise direction until resistance is felt, and then back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut to secure the adjustment. 5. Rotate the clutch cable lower adjuster until the play at the tip of the clutch lever is 10-20mm. Tighten the locknut. 6. Minor adjustment is done by turning the clutch cable upper adjustment at the handlebar 10-20mm free play at the lever tip. You could also check that your cable is moving freely and not snagging. I hope this helps, please let me know, how you get on.

Hi Nate, we didn't do anything with the jetting. It was all original carbs, jets, ran perfect (no flat spots, ticking over great and started first time) and good on fuel. We serviced the carbs, made sure the floats and needles were set right, put pod filters on and it ran great, it was a really fit and smooth running engine.

Glad you found our channel, hopefully we will see you at a show soon.

I would love one of these, it is usually the 400cc ones that come up for sale, that would be fine for me, but the dream would be a 650cc.

@@classicmotorbikeenthusiast7287 We never had the 400cc in the states....only 647cc.

Hi Alec, I have a new old stock wiring loom to put on in the New Year, it has the original on now, they can be tricky. There is a wiring diagram in the handbook which might help.

We had a spare bike when we did ours, plus took photos before dismantling.

Yes

Good luck with your rebuild Phillip.

They are not original, just bought off eBay in the UK, don't know where they are made. They seem good quality and reasonably priced.

There is a Suzuki GT 200 X5 group on Facebook that you might be interested in joining Mark, lots of UK members.

Sorry Manuel, the bike is now sold

They are a great little bike, we no longer have one and are regretting parting with it!

Sorry I do not understand your question

Hi Gareth, the paint was from RS Paints, here is the link to the colour, good luck with your renovation. :) www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.php#makeid=65&modelid=1735&prodyear=1976&colourscheme=3747

@@classicmotorbikeenthusiast7287 Thanks for the info and link. RS seems to be the only place to get this Honda colour from in the UK. My painter doesn't like RS so looking for alternatives. The at least the colour was a good match for the original. Thanks

@@garethowen7050 you're welcome. I was impressed with the colour match and the painter didn't have any problems. I did buy more than I needed, hopefully it won't go off if I do need to use it.

We have the CD185 on the road now, the bike has a really fit engine. I have another video to upload when I get time. Here is one when we first put the exhausts on ruclips.net/video/5GpzqKTObRE/видео.html

They are Universal ones from here www.feked.com/exhausts/universal-exhaust-silencers/

Universal ones from here www.feked.com/exhausts/universal-exhaust-silencers/

They are a great little bike Sean, we have the bike on the road now, but local lockdown prevents us going very far, hopefully we will get chance next year to use it more.

We can but hope Robert, there is always a warm Yorkshire welcome for you there. We are really missing it at the moment, but needs must. Take care, stay safe and well.

You are welcome Denis, stay safe and healthy.

Sorry sapitoazul, we never checked that and no longer have the bike. They are quite a thirsty bike and of course need 2 stroke oil to keep the engine in good condition. Great fun bike if you have the chance to ride one, it is well worth it. I hope you and your family are keeping safe and well.

They are rare over here in the UK, Steve hasn't had much time to ride it yet. He is thinking of selling his FZ400R or the CBR400F, but hasn't decided which to keep yet!

@@classicmotorbikeenthusiast7287 They are a rare little bike over here thats for sure, i love the 400s and currently have VFR400Z...if the CBR comes up for sale please don't hesitate to message me 👍

@@jimdolby8668 I don't think you can message on RUclips now, but I will post on here if Steve decides to sell the CBR.

i have the same motorcycle. I try restore it. I live in Chile. Here nobody has this motorcycle. blessings, nice bike.

I have Honda cbr400f3 nc17, no time to restore 😿

We had a backfire on my Honda CB200 and changed the coil and condenser which needed doing, the backfire was still there but not as bad. We then tested the wiring by disconnecting the original feed from the ignition switch to the coil and put a feed from the battery directly to the coil and this cured the problem. The wiring is 40+ years old so that could be something to try before buying new coil. DO NOT leave this direct feed on or it will burn the ignition system out. On the top end speed you are getting, it be down to the gearing on the front or back sprockets, check them against standard settings. A previous owner may have changed them to suit their needs. Another thing to check is that your points are opening on both lobes of the cam on the points. Or it could be your air filter, that can have an effect on the running. We have got the exhausts fitted now, but didn't have any exhaust hangers so are currently making some to fit as they aren't available any more. We will update with more videos and a report on the running when we get more time to work on it.

@@classicmotorbikeenthusiast7287 Thanks for the reply and helpful hints, I already have a new coil anyway so it won't hurt to swap it, I've just ordered a condensor as well as this hasn't been changed yet. Good point to check points both sides of the lobe as I did only line the left cyl TDC with the firing mark on the ignition timing plate and didn't think to pop it 180 to check the gap.. The initial gap before I fiddled with it appeared to be nearly double recommended so it's possible I've closed up the right hand cylinders lobe gap too much by begin too exact for the left hand cyl. I'll let you know how I get on.. Good luck with yours ;)

ruclips.net/video/4Ct0XJlmdGE/видео.html

I think that is one of the models it fits but with the Formula 3 model we have to be careful and find it best to give the engine and chassis number. That way if the part is wrong it is down to the supplier and they replace it at their cost. The part number we got was 31206mm5008 which is the holding plate and brushes.

Hi Lazlo lel, thank you for your comments. Yes our CBR400F Formula 3 REV system is working fine. We have made a short video of it working, I hope this will help you determine if yours is kicking in or not. ruclips.net/video/Zb6zaaq9CiM/видео.html

@@classicmotorbikeenthusiast7287 Thank you for your reply and the video. It seems as though mine isn't working properly as i do not notice the change in sound nor the increased power while riding. I've confirmed proper operation of the solenoid operating the REV system and the oil pressure. I'll have to look deeper into it I think. I've had to take the head apart when I got it due to some burned valves, i'm afraid i might have made a mistake at reassembly. Did you manage to find a workshop manual of the sort anywhere? i.imgur.com/a5UdVwU.jpg Is what mine looks like by the way. Its the 1984 CBR400F2.

@@laszlolel2973, lovely looking bike, sorry you are having problems with the engine. The workshop manuals are in Japanese so we have not bought one but they do come up for sale, here is one that sold recently yahoo.aleado.com/lot?auctionID=b364809080 . Good luck with your renovation.

There are a few available at the moment, this is the cheapest yahoo.aleado.com/lot?auctionID=e372025445

I can not view your last message Laszlo lel, I think it has been blocked as it came via a different name "pleaserespond".