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Sure. 350A controller, continuous 300A. 20kw motor. Lots of carbon fiber and even more 3D printed ABS/PETG. 5.3kwh battery pack, I have a series on building that using used cells - I highly recommend that since lithium batteries are damn expensive. My total build was around $1500 and $500 extra for reprint/failures. I just came home after trying it today on the water at 72v/30A. Learned a lot, so subscribe and I'll talk a lot about what worked and what was a little scary. Key thing is to stay below 12S battery pack, I made a major mistake building it with too high voltage ⚡

Also make sure to read the short but very very important book called DIY lithium batteries. It's essential to understand batteries even if you buy them and how to work with them safely given a specific load. It's cheap and this is dangerous stuff, potentially lethal, so you have to read up before.

Thank you so much! Och efter lite tittande insåg jag att du också var svensk, kul! Ska kolla igenom dina filmer lite mer noggrant samt läsa den där boken!

Var ju ute och testkörde den på 30A idag och det gick fint visade det sig :)

Skulle vara kul att höra mer om ditt projekt. Själv skall jag bygga om min båt med kolfiber, har beställt en massa :)

I appreciate it. Stay tuned for the finale! Driving it at the water

Thanks. Stay tuned and let me know what you think after my next video. Can I ask what you like most about it? I know what I love about it but I'd love to hear what others like about it to get other perspectives. Cheers

@@NavalTechTinkerer it’s quiet human in the sense of how you go through it and what you’re trying to achieve. With ohers, it’s this is my sponsor, click fingers and then videos of then multiple videos of them racing around a lake. Yours is a lot more human, trail and error, an idea of what you want to achieve roughly but really allowing the experience to take you and showing what hurdles you’ve come up against and how you’ve overcome them.

@@user-oc6zd7op2z thanks. Because you literally highlighted why I started this channel. I was dead tired of these flashy RUclipsrs who seemed like they could build complicated things and how easy it was. The fact is that product development, hobby or professional, takes lots of iterations and I just want to share with the community. That's why I'm also going to release the 3D print models and a guide how to assemble so everyone can benefit. I mean a motor like this can be driven about 2hours at decent speed with a battery pack like the one I built. And it cost me $2k including tons of re makes to get it right. So my hope is to make it very very accessible for anyone to download, print, skin and then have a motor ready in say two weeks time that's carbon fiber exclusive and has a monster motor that would have cost upward $25k if you bought it. So I'm just playing around trying to be a good community member messing around in the safest way I can.

Thanks appreciate it! Hope to see your comment in my finale I'm recording on Sunday driving it in the water. Reprinting some parts right now... 940g ABS to thicken that part - it's a full roll of ABS again 😂 $$$

Good point. I have been thinking about it... They are M10 so it's not particularly weak, but since they are now inserts they have less material behind them. They do have carbon fiber behind them stopping the bolts too though. But yeah... For full power it would probably be better with M12 and thicker mounts plus a layer more of carbon fiber. Don't know about that expert part - I'm just tinkering around trying my best and doing my best to stay safe. Love that idea from my collegue with the propeller duct... It has more positives than I had though of. Like it stops air from being pulled down, called ventilation. It protects me, and it allows me to connect to that pipe below to stabilize the motor when driving. The duct is super duper stable though, I had them perfect it printing direction and it has six pretty beefy arms going to the motor. So not that scared about it breaking... But remember me saying 9/10 and then it broke 😂

Hi - yes that could be done but it would be real expensive. Hmmm... Well I guess I could re design the part much slimmer but still fit and that would be doable. I'm kind of keen on going out to test the motor, so I think I'll run with this ... As long as it works and that carbon skinning didn't ruin the part I'll probably keep what I got. But if it doesn't work, I have enough carbon to make a 100-200 gram molded carbon part (people in the CF community hate the word forged he he). Even a small part like that would probably be like... $50 if I had zero problems and no need to re-do the part. So yeah, I'm leaning towards trying this and see how it goes. But thanks for the feedback! 🎉

Hi. Thanks appreciate it! What are you trying out? I'm expecting... Well I have put some limits to my first try with the BMS so probably around 10kw or about 13hp. The question is if the parts can handle it so I'll step up my test in small steps. The throttle is just a Vevor throttle I used in my first project converting an outboard to electric. The important part for the throttle is basically just to have ADB (if I remember it correctly) to the one for the esc and the 3v positive plus ground. So I only have forward right now. I'll probably figure out the reverse later at a forum. But I'm excited for tomorrow's first test drive! Subscribe/like if you want to see the next video with that :) But what about your project - what are you aiming for?

Also on range, I don't have a clue yet. It also highly depends on how much I use the throttle. I mean half throttle, given all same, is likely to give 4x the range. But say I run it at 3.5-4kw, giving similar performance to a 6-7 hp stinky box, that would give me a run time of approximately 1.5 hours at full throttle. That's pretty cool and likely to give me range that's more than enough. Also, I already have a solar setup to the battery, Ill post some videos later with the panel being on the stern. Doesn't provide much, like 60-70w max, but over a day at low speeds, I guess that could provide enough for quite some extra range. Mostly one does not go full speed either ...

I have an old Mercury 2hp. My current set up is just a freerchobby ESC (120A) and motor (MP56115). Freerchobby have not been very communitive unfortunately, I managed to squeeze a manual from them eventually for a different ESC as the wiring wasn’t typical, still struggling to find something it can work with. I’m working with 48v with stacked 12v batteries to test method then will likely upgrade to lifepo4. I’ve tried 2 throttles now with no luck as well as using a speed control but still nothing. It’s taken a back seat to other projects but I’m eager to get it working so will be keeping a very close eye on what you’re up to. I have experience with domestic electrical work but this is my first dip into anything more complex like this. Keep up the good work and I’ll keep an eye out for your new videos.

Well if you ask advertisers it's 40 HP equivalent ;) but the correct absolute conversation is 26.82 bHP

Cool didn't know that :) thanks 🙏

You have a stroke while typing that?

Well. I did some work on the packs inside. A lot of the welding and series connections were done outside. I do talk about it in the later video - but to be honest 100% should have been done outside.

I mention that in the later video. It's from Tom who runs a small business in the EU called 18650battteries.eu. Look at the video where I talk about buying used cells. It's important to understand the pros and cons buying used cells. But I was damn happy 😊

Or in the US I guess the most popular is Jehu Garcia. He has a big company selling used cells and huge variety. You could even buy used car packs there

If you are in the EU you can reach out to @tomwolvers3857 who sold them to me

Yeah I have done that... I still found that after charging them up they had a lot of self discharge over a few months sitting. I mean they are probably ok for other purposes... But I'm using this at a 2C draw and then you don't want to take risks with cells that already show signs of going out ... For other purposes, I have used them though but not for this high draw pack.

Tjäna. Ja jag kör redan 0.6 nozzle så det är nog så stort som jag vill gå. Kör Volcano CHT clone nozzle för att öka flow, så jag har nog maxat maskinen med delarna den kom med i övrigt. Annars hade jag nog varit tvungen att byta ut extrudern. Kör i ca 17mm/sec så det är ändå bra jäkla mycket plast per sekund redan nu, men det är massiva delar som tar tid. Får man fråga om du är någon jag känner?

It was on ebay. But to be honest it doesn't really do enough if you got the 72v motor without an internal fan. Vector decided to make a bit motor, and since the internals were too big, they just decided to skip the internal cooling fan. I consider the 72v motor a scam. The only solution from a DIY perspective I see, is to 3D print a water cooling jacket you design in CAD. It probably quite simple to design in CAD, even with beginner level cad skills you can acquire in a few hours with RUclips clips (I use OnShape, since it's free and web based). I would then print it with ABS and acetone smooth it to make it water tight. Add a 12v DC pump and a 72v-12v dc-dc converter to run cold water continuously. But... This motor was both a success and a failure. 72V is lethal, and the risks are way too high in a boat. The next project I'm posting videos on I'm gonna split the battery pack in two to get under 50v to reduce the risks.

Sure. But you do fight on with inefficient 110 VDC at the walls don't you? ;)

@@NavalTechTinkerer 😆Here in the UK, we allegedly use 230AC, (measured mine today at 247 !!). I have visited US several times and had conversations about their supply. Main reason apparently that they use 2 phases is because they can use European equipment.

Well I'm not an electrical engineer or engineer, but the values I read in electrical forums building DIY for boats/efoils is to stay below 50v. That means using Li-ion (not Li-Fe) to max go 12 cells in series (50.4v). The voltage drop the second you take them off charge probably puts you below 50v immediately. I would tell my BMS to turn off when it reaches 49v since not fully charging Li-ion cells makes for much longer longevity of the battery pack whole sacrificing very little capacity/range. Min I'd go something like 2.9v per cell or 34.8v on a 12S pack. Don't take this as professional advice though - I am just a tinkerer after all. Make your own research. Even 34/50v is dangerous though in a high current application, it just reduces the risks by a lot of being lethal. I'd recommend getting and reading the book DIY Lithium batteries, cover to cover before starting out. And take every safety tip in that book to heart.

To the motor mount, the mast is good with that much carbon fiber

Thanks. Well it already has several layers of carbon fiber that that middle wood rod and that's strong as hell. So I think that should be enough.

@@NavalTechTinkerer 20kw peak is a lot of power. Maybe a better idea would be to buy a cheap second hand surf foil mast, wich has the Shape as yours

Hi. Well I already have a eFoil carbon fiber mast, but the cables are thick and won't fit inside. So I tried this. If I make a second One, I would make it much thinner and put carbon fiber like this: first layer 45 degree weave, second to fourth uni directional, then 45 again, total five layers. But before putting it on the 3D printed foil, I would put shrink wrap and then just kick/hit the 3D printed "wing" or mast out of it. So it would be pure carbon and no center wood core. It would likely be more than enough and it's cheap and fast... 3D printing for one night and then carbon weave the next evening and then additional epoxy + clear coat day three. That's a cost of about $60-70 and only a few hours of work. Carbon fiber mast like these are kind of expensive otherwise. But they are damn easy and cheap to make once you figure it out. This is my first trial so I am tinkering along and learning a lot :)

@@NavalTechTinkerer Very interesting, i am also doing the same project as you, i bought a 40 euros second hand aluminium foil mast, but i am using a diferent motor, Saite 6374 100kv, at 14s with flipsky 75100 vesc.

Indeed. But my new motor I'm building and posting videos about is way way way stronger and I only have to cool the motor controller that's built for marine use and has water cooling built in.

I don't remember. I think I just found them on AliExpress. Easy to find there

Indeed. I was lucky. I made a follow up coming next where I actually talk about that, advising against what I did. Sitting at home inside was stupid.

Just search on a-express Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! 109,71kr | 4-channel 18650 Lithium Battery Capacity Tester Module MAh MWh Digital Battery Power Detector Module 18650 Battery Tester Type-C a.aliexpress.com/_EGuRm2X

Well my tests showed that even if they pass the IR and capacity tests, letting them sit for a month and the voltage had taken sharp turns down. I let some sit even longer (3 months) and almost 80% were rejects. So for my pack, I really wanted to keep those away, given the high current draw.

Just want to point out that I did keep some of the bad ones and used them for other applications. It's just not good to bring them in to a huge high current draw battery pack like mine. Getting a few relatively to other good cells could be real bad

Battery Hook Up is where I go to get new unused cells

@@CrazyChinese Do you know some website for the EU market?

I get them from 18650batteries.eu here in the EU. Say hello to Tom from me. In the US I guess Jehu Garcia has a pretty big business on used cells that have great prices too. Just Google him

@@NavalTechTinkerer thank you 👍 i will for sure

Just be sure to read a book before you build anything. I highly recommend DIY Lithium batteries, since these things are lethal, creates fires that are not possible to extinguish and all possibly other problems - so safety is essential. Cheers

Hey, this is his supplier. He is actually right. When you trickle charge the cells they will charge up to 3v but the more you put into then the more the cell internally will us therefore discharging on it's own to below spec voltage. We offered to replace them as part of our service and now the project is up and running again!

Indeed. It's amazing the service you gave, and like I mention in a video. The cells are not bad, well a few were, but my use case was a high draw marine environment where I am pulling upwards 2C of a new rated cell at 3C. So when using used cells one has to be mindful of the health of the cells and what that means for the specific pack you are building. I did use some of those reject for other small fun stuff later. Still amazing Tom that you are here answering!

Hi. Well I completed it, and it kind of sucked. But instead I'm building the new 20kw carbon fiber outboard. Hope you like that much better - it's testing time after tonight so Sunday is the big day!

He he. Indeed. That was my first printer. Got myself a Qidi X Max 3 and learnt a lot since then

Hi. I would recommend Flipsky 65161, the current build I'm doing and posting about is 20kw and a bit too strong. I'd go with the 65161 or any of the weaker they have that are made for water sports and order directly from Flipsky. Their support has been great. The main benefit is cheap, made for water sports and since they are in the water you don't have to cool the motor. I had hell with trying to get water cooling and air cooling my shitty Vevor motor. Take a look at my new 3D printed carbon fiber skinned motor. I think you'll like it 🎉