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lOOKS SO sTOCK Important for a '72 Very Valuable and iconic

That RZ-350 would be worth a pretty penny if kept as original as possible, and some of the parts you have are unobtanium, for sure, this is a very complete bike and deserves to be preserved, you can always get a junk one to modify as you please for cheap.

Once that bike is dialed in it will be the ripper of your fleet

Love your collection of bikes, you are so lucky to have them.

Nice Video! Subscribed!

What oil you running in these bad bikes? Nice Vidja Brother!

I love my Suzi GT250. Your bike is a beast, sir. There’s a reason it was dubbed “The Widowmaker.”

As the minutes of this video go by I see on the tach how the seduction of this bike works on the rider.

Had the 500 and the 750. Not nearly as bad as thier reputation. That just grew to mythical proportions. Yes they where a handfull but biggest problem where: the tires. With bit more modern tires they handle just as good as any bike of that era.

Did I read 125,000 miles on the tachometer??

Nice bike sir! In very good shape. Sounds healthy. Two strokes FTW!

Great bike! Sounded a little boggy as you got close to the fun. Pussycat until it hits the pipe. Better hold on tight.

Nice machine & nicely done video - I remember them new on the showroom floor at Dosch Cycle Shop in East Earl, PA...

Synchronize the carburators. And she will be old smokey again. I have a set of old mercury tubes for my Z1 900 and 1000

Are these older bikes like this like death traps ? why were they called widowmakers ? lol

Window maker?

Check your pipes are breathing and not coked up with carbon ... Its a big but unrealised issue with 2 smokers.

Great looking bike the surge could be extra air getting in I'd check the carb boots first

380 piston's are up to oversize 2mm available. Look for IMD pistons from UK.They are as set 3 pieces 84 euro, thats almost the price of one orginal. Have used in the Gt750. They allow tighter clearance between piston's and cylinder (0,03mm out of my head) than orginal specs 0,05mm. Weight is almost same, springs have a little edges on top side + are little bit less stiff and easier to install. For oil lines, oil tight checkvalves are important. Especially not used every now and then. It is possible to disassemble the checkvalves and use new springs. Or look for replacement line, but also 50 years old checkvalves. Kawasaki still sell oem checkvalves 16128-009, Webike sell them cheaper. I recommend to do this to the other GT triples. Hydrolocking your 550 or 750, could safe crank rebuilds Use good non thickness liquid gasket between crankcases. have good experience with Hylomar Blue. Keeps sticky when good preperation been done. Could assembly when activeted chemical reaction after 5 minutes. Keep your engines air tight and not lean. I see your shared video's when rebuilding the nices bikes!

Good to see you didn’t have to push the Suzuki back looks like another tank flush . I usually toss nuts , bolts , and chain in the tank and shake like hell also a small magnet helps fish out the crap .

can't beat it when a guy picks up sunglasses and says safety first, while wearing shorts. That's exactly what I would do ! Man, that GT is beautiful !

That steering damper, did it come with the bike or did you add it? I believe it is not original? Anyways, congratulations on the 100 subscribers. RE: Fuel filter getting clogged, if cleaning the tank is not an option, an automotive filter (more surface area) lasts much longer before getting clogged.

Watched all the videos, subscribed, keep up the good work. These bikes will give you so much joy and only demand a little money, a lot of elbow grease, and love. Re: chips in the carbs, it is possible someone used a screwdriver to try and get the old rubber boots off. Cast aluminium is more brittle, and with the long lever arm you can put a lot of force without realizing it. I would never ever break a carburetor by doing precisely that I just told you about, but a friend of a friend did. 100% not speaking from personal experience here, I am a perfect mechanic 😆 Also, I know you are a grown adult, but road rash sucks and you can do everything perfectly but then some asshole throws their grass clippings in a curve and down you go. Dress for the slide, not the ride. Again, totally not speaking from personal experience here, I have never dropped a bike and gotten a perfectly good riding jacket, gloves, and helmet all scratched, since I am a perfect rider 😆😆

Those ultrasonic cleaners are a godsend for carb cleaning. Re: carb gaskets, you can get the O-ring material (Viton or Nitrile rubber), you cut a slice of the appropriate length, glue the ends together, instant carb gasket for any carb and you save $ as well as shipping time. Re: clutch soaking, this is a myth, and like all myths it has a basis on reality. Back in ye olde days actual cork was used in clutches, and it required soaking before using or it would burn down, you would wear half your clutch in the first miles until the oil soaked in. Modern clutch material is synthetic and just requires a light oil coating during assembly.

Re: future carb syncing, get a few popsicle sticks, stick them under each slide, and then adjust so they all lean at the same angle. This gets you super close and then the final vacuum sync is a breeze usually.

Re: sticky clutch, check the basket as well, it can wear unevenly and acquire rough spots that cause clutch stick, these can be filed away no problem.

Superb, nothing like the wind in your face and that sweet 2 stroke symphony. I saw you ride with a finger on the clutch, did you have an experience with a seized 2-stroke before, or were you told to do it? For me all it took was one seized engine after ripping for too long in a summer afternoon, (Stupid me, I know) and I developed the habit ever since. Thankfully I reacted before the engine fully seized, didn't even lock the wheel but was still a scary experience. Re: The wobble, check tire pressure and replace the front fork oil. If it is outside spec it can cause tank slappers.

Glad you are safe, keep wrenching!

Sorry for your loss, grateful that you are still wrenching away. I always found shop time to help with reflection and dealing with loss.

Re: Woodruff keys, motorcycles mainly use 2 sizes, a small kit with 10 of each is cheap and will have you set up for life. The cone does the actual holding, the key is there for timing. If the cone loosens up a little the key shears off instantly, and having to wait for a key is a bummer. Re: Chrome, WD-40 and fine steel wool works best for rust coming through the chrome, other faster solutions are too agressive and damage the chrome. If there is pitting, a quick fix is silver rust converter, looks decent from far away if applied only to small pits. The real fix if there is pitting is replacing the exhaust, or sandblasting and rechroming. I also saw you have some frame rust, get some black rust converter and treat the spots, rust is easy to deal with today, but it leads to corrosion which can ruin a bike forever. Re: Oil change, add a roll of aluminium foil to your shop, you can use it to build channels/throughs in any shape you need. One minute building a through is much better than five minutes cleaning up. Re: Clutch, get a piece of glass (super flat), some fine sandpaper, and sand away. Usually you will be able to save them and can ride the bike with a little clutch adjustment to compensate for the worn down separators. While the ideal solution is replacing them, the aftermarket ones often are not as good as the originals which are not available anymore.

Good call, the bike will get fixed and back on the road and you keep your sanity. I also thought hydrolocking from engine pickling initially, but you kicked it over a few times before, which did not make sense in that context, it's either hydrolocked or not. These old 2 strokes are indestructible, my Yamaha RX-100 grenaded the top end piston roller bearing, metal went down the engine and she limped home. Oil and fuel, a little work and sweat, maybe a drop of blood or two, and these machines will take you to the end of the world.

A little elbow grease and that old chrome and aluminium pop right back up! 🔥🔥🔥 Re: Tank treatment: Vinegar works wonders but it takes ages. Regular battery acid cut down to 25% with water does the same job in a few hours. Vinegar is however, the safest, you can forget it for a day and you will have no holes in the tank lol. Also, as soon as you are done neutralizing the acid spray any water displacing lubricant (typically WD-40) inside. This prevents the formation of flash rust and keeps the tank looking as good as possible. Also, before you ride the bike, change the brake hoses. These old hoses swell inside, when you apply the brakes the hydraulic force pushes fluid through the swollen parts, but once the pressure is released the return spring cannot provide enough force to return the piston and fluid. Nasty surprise, locked brakes on a first ride.

Re: hard old rubber (hoses, airboxes, seals) a little heat with a heat gun does wonders, it restores suppleness and flexibility so you may remove them. They still need replacing, but heating them makes them temporarily pliable for removing without hassle. Considering that the engine was pickled and the Suzuki quality, she's a runner for sure.

Subscribed, daily drive a Yamaha RX-100. Can't wait to see your adventures in these bikes.

I've been having issues with the clutch on my bike. Stripped the clutch and everthing seemed to be as it should be. Re-assembled it and did the same test you did: in gear, clutch lever pulled back, rotate wheel. I hadn't done anything to the clutch, yet somehow it was better than before. However, when I ran the engine and tested it again, it was as bad as ever. Because the plates don't seperate very much when pulling the clutch lever, running the engine had coated the plates with oil and was causing drag.Wiping the oil off the plates had created a bit of space between the plates which the oil had now filled. I cleaned the plain plates to remove baked-on oil residue, as you did, and there was a definite improvement. Still not great, but better.

good looking fleet of two smokers

Rz350

I have a two-stroke snow blower that I run Pennzoil synthetic two stroke oil with a little Stabilo gas treatment in the ethanol gas I have to buy. The darn thing has just kept running for over eighteen years. These Suzuki's were the top of the heap for real world livable two stroke motorcycles. I hope you get it running great. But I would definitely run synthetic two stroke oil in it and non-ethanol gas if you can get it. Being that this Suzuki runs a two-stroke oil tank, I would be putting the synthetic in that and because you have carbs, I would definitely be using the Stabilo red or the marine stuff in the gas. Ethanol just kills carbs if left with no treatment in it. Gums them right up. That is a wonderful Suzuki. Well worth getting a new clutch for and checking out what's happening with the carbs. Heck, I'd pour some shell nitro gas in the tank and run a little carb cleaner in the gas to see if the carbs would clear up. But don't go crazy. You don't want to clean the two stroke oil off the cylinder walls. lol. Great bike.

Great bike.Coming along nicely.

Cool video. Subscribed for more

Nice work test rides are always fun . If that tank holds fuel maybe just peel the loose paint off for now and spray some clearcoat on it so you can put some miles on the bike.

Curious, what did you pay for all the entire haul of non-running vintage bikes? I also have a few bikes in my garage so I subbed and will follow your progress. Honda CBX, Suzuki GT750, Honda CB400F, Yamaha XS750, Honda MB5 (two stroke). I used to own a Yamaha RD400. I still dream about it, I loved it!

I recognize those bikes! 🤑

That there is a full rebuild back to factory. Any bikes I get that look as bad as these are always completely engine out and then full engine disassembly and replace everything. I don't ever "start" any engine until after it's been fully rebuilt to spec.

@SuzukiGlobal_official sponsor this man 🙏🏼

I rode GT380 back in the 70's and my father rode the GT750 and was the GT750 club President, Lemans America !!!!! Great to see there is a US interest and repair of these bikes. I have dreamt of a 380 once again!!!

Way cool smokers!! Nothing like riding 2 strokes!!

I have used steel wool and wd40 for rust as you mentioned with good results if its not to far gone . I tried the cola and aluminum foil it did ok but the foil wears fast and cola is messy. If crome is to far gone it maybe best to remove it and just paint the part there is some decent paint coatings out now. My dad showed me a hack years ago with sanding the steel clutch plates and just replacing the fiber ones best to be done on a flat surface in a figure 8 pattern sometimes every dollar saved counts.

RZ350 hats

ruclips.net/video/sdf6x10jwE4/видео.htmlsi=UT8I-UFEpgCTodZa. 👀👀👀👀👀👀