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One of the best tutorial videos on this I've ever seen. Clear and concise. Thank you!

😉 "promosm"

So grateful you've sprung me from my mind's prison!😂😂

That intro! 😂

Great video, thanks! What is the part number or name of the rack you are using? I can't seem to find any that are meant for the Kodak 4A holders-- only the bigger ones meant for the Kodak Multiple Film Holder and 8x10. I'll probably have to build one, but would be nice to buy one off eBay if I can find one.

In some instances, the text refers to the focal plane and the film plane and the relative movements of each one. Though really - the focal plane and the film plane are the same thing. You could refer to the front standard as the lens plane.

Thank you so much for the full explanation.

Nice video. For Copal shutters, Nr0 go to 1/500s and Nr1 to 1/400s. Also according to Copal, it does not matter if you leave the shutter in armed or fired position during storage. Though no harm in releasing the shutter during storage. I do that anyway. Also, it is important to time the shutter for accuracy. They are mechanical, and likely quite old, and speeds are rarely accurate. In fact even when new, Copal says the shutter speed tolerances are 30% when brand new!

at 5:00 one error, you didn't talk about "telephoto" fully, aka this means not just a long lens!, but one, who's infinity point (position the front std and rear have to be spread to to focus at infinity) is LESS than focal length that is, a 360mm lens, only having to be spaced at 280 or 320 mm from the film); this is IMPORTANT, esp for field cameras like the linhof technika, wista, Ebony, shen hao, whose bed and track design is limited in extension (540 mm in linhof's case) due to design constraints like fixed bellows (glued in the standard frames), or the cameras size aka a 5x7" format camera can extend more than a 6x9 cm can, as the bed is physically bigger, and the necessity for larger focal length lenses (300 is 8x10" standard lens, compared to 150 for 4x5" cameras).

ps for 60 or 70 degrees you would need HOT water, not ice!, water boils at 100 degrees , and most days are between 12-15 and 45 degrees, if it hits 45 for three days straight you have a heatwave!!

great video, two tips, one: the lens may NOT use a focus lever (in that case use a locking cable release with B on the lens, or use T, one push to open, one to close, but DON'T cock the shutter, these are separate opening systems from the cocking system{1 second to 1/200th, etc.} and this will be damaged if you use it improperly); two: there is another point about wide open apature, the fact you have MINIMUM depth of field, so the objects snap in and out of focus BOLDLY, no doubt about it, making the focus job easier.

one tip, with the light leek issue, you MUST check the shutter is closed (the preview lever, or if older shutter, on B or T); as this can leek light too!!

love your large format tutorials, but where is ep.2 if this is not it?, also on the toyo you forgot to show how the rail extends, there are knobs under the rail what are they for, does the rail extend by sliding out, or by screwing extensions on, like the sinar f and P monorails.

Outstanding!

very helpful well done thank you

Michael, what bag is that you're using?

You made a double exposure! Did you forget to flip the film holder?

Please do one on Schiempflug techniques in practice,.

Waste of time...

Some examples of what it looks like with these movements was necessary here.

this camera looks like a lab instrument from the mid 20th century

Love this video. After you focus on the glass, is it pretty much wysisyg for bokeh?

Judging by the title, I had great hopes for this video. Unfortunately, it didn't deliver any of what I wanted. Seeing the physical manipulations of the camera means nothing without showing the effect of each on the image. Anybody can adjust the film and lens planes. The important information is to show why.

What magnification do you have on your loupe? I have a 10x Linen Count which I used in the printing industry but it is so strong I can count the grains on the ground glass.

Hello Michael, I have a question for you. A friend of mine gave me the exact same chamber camera (a kodak master view whitch is the perfect copy of the calumet cc 400). Except that the monorail is a DIY one that I can't use properly. I would like to see how's the mecanism from underneath point of view so I can see how the wheels work. If you could show me it would be super great. Pardon my english, I'm just a poor french girl ;) But thanks anyway !

I call ALL movements either tilt or shift......simple and to the point. The lens is tilted to the right or left, or tilted up or down. The lens can be shifted to the right or left, or shifted up or down. You can also call it rise or lower (fall) that's more specific though. I would say: I will shift the lens up, or I will tilt the lens to the right. But you can also say; I will swing the lens up? Isn't that what you are doing? Generally we think of a tilt as up and down movement: like we tilted the table, and everything slid off. And swing as a harizontal movement. He swung the bat. But whatever you call it, know how to use a view camera and take good pictures.

The video goes through the movements too fast. And it takes time to remember what each movement does. By the way do you explain why you would make these movements? One reason is for perspective correction. Let say you are photographing a tall building with a lot of detail. To get the whole building in the frame, you must move back. This makes the building look smaller and you can't examine the details as well. Being up close, you might have to tilt your camera (fixed lens) upwards to get the entire building in the frame. Doing so makes the building appear tilted backwards. If this is what you want for an artistic look, etc. then you can do this. But with a view camera, you can be up close (you're still a distance away) for more detail and have the entire building in the frame. The view camera's back remains parallel to the building, but the front lens is adjusted.

I am thinking about measuring and marking the infinity focus on my camera. Do that for my 65mm and 90mm wides. Sometimes it is dark and hard to see to focus for this old half blind man.

NO PIPPY

These cameras are tanks! Love mine.

Correct, so many people get this wrong including so called pros.

How Funny, I use the same Sowrd!