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Archura Industries
Добавлен 23 дек 2020
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Quick and Easy FCR 39 Carburetor Rebuild
This Keihin FCR 39 MX carburetor is from KTM 525 EXC.
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archura.industries
archura.industries
Quick and Easy FCR 39 Carburetor Rebuild
SUBSCRIBE to not miss our future videos!
archura.industries
archura.industries
Quick and Easy FCR 39 Carburetor Rebuild
Просмотров: 42 030
Martin Joseph Young David Lopez Betty
Smith Laura Gonzalez Elizabeth Taylor Shirley
Perez Jeffrey Walker David Wilson Edward
Thomas Helen Lee Larry Martinez Steven
Davis Cynthia Perez Mark Moore Charles
White Elizabeth Allen Frank Young Mary
Great video. I am currently rebuilding an FCR MX. I realise this is slightly different, but for all intents and purpose, it's similar enough. It turns out that a previous owner installed the accelerator pump nozzle 180 degrees out. Yes, that's right it is spraying fuel into the air filter 😅 how did you get yours out? Any suggestions to turn it around without damaging it? Thanks
Hi, I tapped on it with a little rod from the inside of carb to get it out. But if you are careful enough I think you can use needle nose pliers to twist and turn it back towards engine :D
Jones Angela Anderson Margaret Hernandez Jeffrey
hi what size hose do you use at the end ?
Hands down the best damn Keihin FCR-MX rebuild vid on RUclips. Thanks for keeping it simple you ROCK!
Hi quality info, thanks!
Good video but the choke is in the wrong hole
No, it is not. Not every FCR is the same. This one has the choke on that hole. Other hole is blocked and this is a oem stock carb. It came with the choke in that hole. But I know most FCRs have their choke in the other holes Thanks for your concern and thanks for watching!
Really helpful video . Can somebody order main body part separately?
You can’t order any body part separately.
I watched 20 videos on a rebuild like this on bigger channels and this is by far the best one. Make more videos
Very good
Good job. Being a for a KTM, no ACV or Hot Start function required. I use Molycote 55M Silicon O-Ring Grease on all the packings. They seat better and plump a little to seal better. Ultrasonic Bath is also beneficial to have.
Thanks for your comment. We bought an ultrasonic cleaner after this video and it made cleaning parts super easy.
Super clear footage, no pointless talking, good info, fast paced. This is how i wish all DIY vidoes should be.
Nice content.I'm waiting new videos.Greetings from Turkey.
Great video. Just a quick tip. … undo the two bolts holding the exhaust up under the seat and remove the subframe bolt. The whole subframe will pivot back two inches letting you easily insert the carb. Thanks again. John
Yes, you can remove and install the carb like that easily. Since we rebuilt the whole engine and painted the frame carb was already out. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this!!!! Not all heroes wear capes my friend.
Glad it helped!
@@archura.industries oh it helped. without it my carb would still be in a thousand pieces!
Where did you get all the gaskets, seals and stuff from? I cant find an entire rebuild kit, just seals, i want to replace all the internal stuff
If you can check the my reply to the pinned comment I talked about all the kits aviable and how to choose the right one. Thanks for watching.
is it necessary to leave the throttle sensor on there?
If you are planning to connect TPS back you should leave it on. But make sure you dry it completly. If you remove it you have to calibrate it using a multimeter. If you decide to remove it mark position of the sensor with a pen that way its easier to calibrate. But you do not have to connect the TPS it should not effect bikes performance.
Finally found a video of someone installing the ap jet or nozzle whatever ya wanna call it any chance you could point me in the right direction to buy one I can’t seem to find anyone selling the ap jet
Hi I really do not know who sells the oem AP jet but Athena has a dual squirt AP jet for better throttle response it is expensive but maybe you can buy that? I think its called “Athena dual spray venturi jet kit” its 90-80$ at amazon/ebay. Athena kit also comes with midbody gaskets for the newer non removable bell fcrs. If you have the first gen FCR MX like in the video you need to buy midbody gasket for that separetely. For the oem AP jet you can maybe ask jets R us.
@@archura.industries thanks I ended up actually calling the company that builds the face carbs and they were able to send me one for 25 after shipping thanks for getting back to me tho
Thank you so much this helped me when i was super lost with rebuilding this thing
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
Why do all the videos start with it broken down already? Lol
Lol because we decided to make a video after… But we will make a new FCR video and it won’t be broken down already :)
Hello. Ive an EXCF 400 2007. Ive a problem and I think its possible that the FCR carb is the fault. Since the moment I start she revs up and up too fast without touching the trothle… Do you think it could be possible bcoz of the carb? thank U
Hi, yes it does sound like its because of your carb, you should try to fully rebuild it like you see in our video. You also may have a leak on your intake manifold (between carb and engine) you might want to replace the intake boot if it has cracks. If doing all this does not fix the issue it might be because your carb's body is worn out. We will make a video about how to restore the carb body as well.
Whenever i spray my fcr carburetor with carb cleaner the slide sticks and it sounds gritty. I have to spray the moving parts with wd40 and the it slides like normal. Any ideas?
We will make a video on how to restore the FCR slide, but your problem sounds like either your carb body is worn or slide's wheel bearings are shot.
What does the black ribbed knob control on the side of the carburetor? I’ve been trying to figure that out. It has a hot start and choke on that side but I’m trying to figure out what that other knob is for. Can you please help? Also, to adjust idle on these I turn the pilot screw knob on the bottom of the carb correct?
Hi, If I understood you correctly; the “pilot screw” also known as fuel screw is for adjusting idle fuel mixture not the idle speed. After adjusting the fuel mixture you can use that ribbed knob to adjust idle speed. That ribbed knob changes how much throttle stays open when the throttle is closed. So when you turn the knob right it pushes on the throttle plate like you are giving it a little twist fromt the throttle tube and this brings up the rpms.
You got another subscriber
Thanks!
Hi, off what model is this fcr carb? Great vedeo
KTM 525 EXC
someone can help me? i have a keihin CR 39, what does it have different from other models? i'm looking for the mixture screw but i can't find it for my carb, it's easy to find for the FCR, but will it fit?
Hi, if you are talking about the air mixture screw; OEM Keihin part number is 1014-004-2002 for CR39 and I dont think that CR39 has anything in common with FCR39.
@@archura.industries aight, thank you!
Thank You
where did you get the float valve seat from?
It was in the rebuild kit All Balls 26-1521. But some FCR MX carbs have a different type press-fit float valve seat and to my knowledge its not possible to replace them.
Thanks for posting this, very helpful. However the choke on mine will bit stay in the pulled out (open) position . When I pull it seems to close always, and I cannot figure out what would stop it from springing back closed always. Any ideas?
If you are saying that choke is not staying on (pulled) and springing back in than you have to replace your choke.
where did you find the pieces for the rebuild kit?
Rebuild kits are from All Balls Racing. If you know which bike is your carburetor is from you can order it from their website or you can find the part number from their website and search it on ebay/amazon.
The jet with the spring and washer on it doesn't want to thread in. Anyone got any suggestions??
Did you check it if the threads are dirty, blocked or damaged? Maybe something is blocking it like the old o-ring or washer.
How to adjust idle screw? You just mount but no info... Rotate until...when? Thx
Hi, first warm up your engine so it idles without cutting out. Slowly turn the fuel screw in that will make the RPMs drop and stop turning it just before it dies. Then start turning it back out and stop when engine hits peak RPM. If your engine is still running bad you might need to change your pilot jet with a smaller or bigger one. (smaller one if your engine is too rich at idle, bigger one if its lean) If its still not working you should replace the mid body gaskets. If its still not running good there might be a leak from the slide and vacuum plate if your vacuum plate is worn replace it also check its gasket 9:00 . If your carriage still has too much front back play after replacing the worn vacuum plate your carb body is worn out and i will make a video for how to fix that. I hope this helps.
hi great video really helps me out but just to mention the 3 different versions of rebuild kits, do you have a link for the sealkit you used ?
Only the mid body gasket has 3 different versions. If you have the same model FCR MX in the video (with removable bell at 10:00 with 2 screws) you need the gasket kit we used in the video (all balls kit 26-1511 it also comes with the removable bell’s gasket). If you have the other two versions of the FCR 39 MX (both without removable bell) you can buy the mid body gasket kit that has both gaskets in it (I do not have a part number for that but most online stores have that kit if you see 2 big mid body gaskets in the photo thats it). That way you can use the one that has the same shape with yours. Or you can compare the photos with your old gasket and buy the one you need (all balls 26-1510 and 26-1512) these two gaskets look like they have the same shape but they do not. If you compare them from the same photo angle you will see the difference. Also we will make a new rebuild video with a non-removable bell FCR MX to show the difference in mid body gaskets. I hope this helps you, thank you for watching.
@@archura.industries wow thank you this kind of support is rediculess. You defenetly deserve more subscribers. keep up the good work 🤙👍
@@archura.industries sitting here trying to understand this stuff, I realized today my Yamaha YZ450 needs this to be done. ( I am pretty sure it is the same Carb.) I dont have the extra cash for someone to do it for me, im going to give it a shot because of this video. thank you
Thanks boss
no sealant on midbody?
No, just gaskets.
@@archura.industries I'll try it
Im sorry my english language very bad, what is the size of the main jet pilot jet carburetor?
This carburetor is from a KTM 525 EXC and the main jet is 178, pilot jet is 42.
I did a Full rebuild on my carb of my drz400e. Now it starts running worse and worse. Is my Problem maybe the gasket in the middle? I didnt replace it because i thought that there is Bohrung inside it. It fells Like my drz is running way to rich.
I thought there is nothing inside it*
You should probably replace the mid gaskets too. Your problem also can be the slide, did you replace the vacuum plate(and its gasket)? Sometimes carburetor is really worn and even replacing the vacuum plate is not good enough. If you did replace it make sure its is installed correctly. Make sure you buy the right mid body gaskets if you know what bike your fcr is from that can help or you can just open the mid body and take photos of the main gasket and compare it with what you are buying.
Would this be the same procedure on a 08 Rmz 250 keihin FCR carb?
Yes, it should be. Even though they have some small differences, all FCR MX carbs have the same design.
I don't recommend putting the choke in the hot start hole but whatever you do you!
You should google “fcr 39 mx” and look at some pictures.
Hi I was wondering if you knew the name of the two brass tubes poking out of the mid body, i cant find the name for them and need help thanks ! great video!
They are just brass tubes for venting. I don’t think they have a specific name. Thank you for watching :)
Hi! Can I ask you what type of grase did you use? The fuel didn't cause problem to the grase? Thanks
Hi, we used the cheapest one we could find. Gasoline quickly dissolves any-ish grease (except for silicone grease don't use that). I think we used white calcium grease, just don't use too much and you will be fine.
@@archura.industries thanks man
Awesome Video! This is extremely helpful,I’m about to have to rebuild mine of a 04DrzE I just picked up. Thanks for such a quality edit as well! Your time and effort is appreciated! ✊
Glad you liked it!
Good video! I've heard not to take the mid body off, for some reason? But, if it wasn't meant to be taken off, why put fasteners on it?? Thank you for making the video! Good work! And also that's a good way to remove the float bowl! I've used a big flat head screwdriver, and got em out before. But I like your method much better than my caveman approach!!
Keihin says that you don’t have to take the mid body off. They also do not sell these gaskets you can only buy them as aftermarket. However this carb is old (18 years old) and have an unkown history. Also as stated in the video, strong chemicals used to clean carbs can cause gaskets to go bad. Glad you liked the video!
My carb is leaking fuel from the brass inlet at 6:38. Mine rotates and has some lateral play. I see it has three o rings. Would replacing those o rings be the fix? What size are they? The factory service manual is of no help. It doesn't even name that part.
It should rotate thats ok. Replacing the o-rings should fix said leak. I tried to measure it for you it looks like o-ring inner diameter is 5.70mm and thickness is 1.30mm maybe you can find something close to these dimensions. Also make sure you buy the fuel resistant stuff. Regular o-rings may leak after sometime but can be used if have to. Hope this helps, take care.
6:42 best moment ever 😂😂