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I bought it from their ebay store and picked it up from their Chicago warehouse.

If you have a welder it's a breeze, a bit awkward to hold it in place for tacking but otherwise simple. The only thing that's going to set you back at all on the thumb is having to find a hydraulics shop that will have the fittings you need to go from the DIN style on the machine to the NPT that is used on everything else in north America. I was not happy about all the cosmetic damage but otherwise pretty happy with the machine. At that price it's hard to beat.

That 20 gallons was per directions so 10G concentrate 10G water. I have not noticed any side effects from the splashing, the pavers don't have any bleached out spots, the tubs and brushes are all just fine. It's still not fun to get on your skin and the fumes are pretty nasty but if you keep that in mind when you're working with it and stay ventilated and do a better job covering your skin than I did and this stuff is the bees knees. It's not cheap but it's inexpensive compared to most powder coat strippers out there. B17 probably works better at lower temperatures but that's some pretty gnarly stuff to work with as I understand it. Hope you get your hobby setup going the way you like, I've really enjoyed it myself.

There were a couple of things that swayed me on that because yes that was an early contender. First AC is a must and while the KU45 does have AC the condenser blocks a large part of your view out of the right side window. Second, there is a LARGE open gap between the outside fender and the interior of the cab where cold air and dust can just blow in. It's large, and hard to understand how it could have made it through the design phase. Third the CFG is actually built by Sunward who is a fairly large manufacturer overseas, I have no idea who makes the KU45. Overall the quality difference between the two machines is really huge, I walked around the KU45 at their warehouse when I picked up the CFG40UF and it's not even close on quality. It's also actually a little bit of a lighter machine and I think it has a smaller footprint so it's not going to be as stable. Great question because there are significant differences between the two machines.

@@galtsgarage5775 Yeah, the model nomenclature on the micro and mini excavators is terrible!! The "46" series for is 2 tons lighter than a "35" in a different brand! The "off brands" seem to fudge their weight to model number worse than the name brand machines. This CFG 40 series is much more inline with the naming on big brand machines. The KU45 is about 7700 lbs and this CFG40UF is about 8500lbs, a much larger machine. A GREAT way to group the class machines is by their bucket pin size. The cab is SMALL in the KU45 too, I'd had to hunch over with the slide up front glass open. My NT30 cab is tight, but I'll make sacrifices, it was cheap :)

@@skibik3r Honestly I duck for cover when I open the windshield in the 40 too...lol.

If I'm understanding you right, you're saying running a second wire from the SSR output to the element "on" indicator lamp? If so I don't see any problem off the top of my head, but in fairness I'm not an electrician and I built this a good little while ago. It's possible however that the light will go on and the heating element won't because the heating element is a giant resistor and the path of least resistance is going to be the indicator light. Not positive on that but it's a distinct possibility.

The manual says the bucket pins are 45mm, that looks about right but I'll measure them next time I'm on the machine to be sure. When I first started looking at this machine it was listed at $35k, then about 3 weeks ago they dropped the price to $29k, and I noticed CFG was selling them on ebay too so I made an offer and in the end I was just a bit under $27k out the door after taxes. I have only seen one of these on an auction, usually it's the Ku45 on the auctions and that machine is a couple of good size steps down in quality and a small step down in size despite the model number. If you're interested now is the time to buy one, CFG is selling off their remaining inventory because nobody buys these more expensive units from them. This is a rebadged Sunward SWE35UF if you want to see what they are actually worth.

@@galtsgarage5775 Nice! 45mm pins are in the cat 305 territory. I picked up a nt30 over at Ritchie for 11k otd, I reaaaallyl wanted to get into a 4 ton class machine like this, but it would have been at least 15k more. This'll be my next upgrade 😁

@@skibik3r You won't regret it, the machine is quiet, strong and you can "just" tow it within specs behind an F150 with the right trailer. I was considering the STE 30 but I just really really wanted the air conditioning.

@@skibik3r I measured my pins yesterday, they are actually 35mm

@@galtsgarage5775 Nice, thanks for checking that! 35mm looks too be in the cat 302 class of machine, but with much more machine weight, interesting.. Kind of a hybrid class 😁 With all the model names, machine weights, and misinformation, it's difficult to group these machines. Thanks for your time!

It's ridiculous, but it will work great for picking up big rocks. Next video will be first job with the machine, lots of hot thumb action in that video.

It worked better than I expected, I'll have that video up this coming weekend when I get it edited

Dayton Model 1TDV3 www.amazon.com/Dayton-1TDV3-High-Temperature-Blower/dp/B001OLXIAI I will say the blower has been hit or miss, I haven't used it once this year and I can't tell the difference.

One thing I forgot to edit into this video, I mounted the torch in the wrong spot. Make sure you don't have the clamps around the lower part of the machine torch. It can cause the housing on your machine torch to warp, it looks weird but clamping it up higher is the right way to do it. The LS Pro is a great table, I've had mine for almost 2 years and it's been the MVP of my shop for some time. Terrific value.

I've put about 8 hours of soak time on it so far, it shows no signs of degrading or contamination. In fact the black powder coat that sloughed off into the chemical from this job sat in the drum for 4 months before I had a day to clean out the barrel and the chemical still looked exactly the same.

I think with the digital relays it's an either or, I would have to go back and take a look at my layout to be sure. It was my first crack at building an oven and I was following a pretty ridgid plan. In hindsight I would have used a propane burner instead of electric heating elements if I could only make one change.

The only resistors I can think of in this build are the heating elements. They are 2000w each, there are four of them so the total is 8000 watts.

If I could give you one piece of advice, if the hoist still has it's original chains keep them. The chain has a really odd pitch that I had a very difficult time finding a replacement for. Thanks for the kind words and good luck!

@@galtsgarage5775 , yes the chains are there. Thanks for the tip.

I'm sure it will be, I'm also pretty sure it's performance will depend on the temperature just like the Strippaint. Good luck I hope it works great for you!

I don't think so, I'm pretty sure it's mild steel.

I have never had to pause the Cut60 for duty cycle, ever. It's a fantastic machine, that being said 90% of my cuts are quarter inch thick or less. Keep in mind that it is stopping itself every time it moves to start a new cut which is pretty often and that might be why duty cycle has never been an issue.

The fumes suck, that's why I was doing it outside. I would wear an organic vapor respirator or have a very powerful ventilation hood built above it. The fumes are why I did this video outside in the winter.

I bought the Electron E-Coat Master box feed, it's a serious machine that I've been taking some time to learn. It's very similar to a Gema, really nice machine but there is so much more control available it's a bit of a learning curve. I'll put a video out on it probably after the fourth of July. I just finished powder coating my first set of wheels with it so that will probably make the video. It's a HUGE step up from the Hyper Smooth 03 LED I've been using from Columbia Coatings.

The limit switch has made the table much easier to use, definitely worth it!

I'm pretty certain they are painted.

It's Plasma Green, it keeps rust and bacterial growth off the slats in your table and helps cool the part as you are cutting. You definitely do NOT want to use anti-freeze in your table. Vaporized ethylene glycol is almost certainly extremely toxic.

Thanks!

generalchem.com/product/strippaint-9900 I forgot to put the link in the description, adding it now.

I run unrestricted pressure into my Cut 60, I just make sure it's well filtered and dry. The regulator on the Cut 60 has never struggled with it. My old compressor that was 130psi into the back of the machine and my new compressor is 155psi. For lead in and lead outs I run 45 degrees and if it's a small cutout like you said that gets dropped on processing in Fusion when you try to generate your gcode I drop my lead in distance to .05". If the cutouts or "drops" are big enough I will run lead in arcs instead of angles because they are very smooth entries and exits that are almost invisible to the naked eye if you run them at least .25" or more on the arc. On the smaller ones though that usually drop when you are generating your toolpaths (gcode basically) I run 45 degrees and .05" and if it still drops the cut on processing then I will go back and adjust the file to make that drop a little bigger. As a rule of thumb for me if the drop is at least .120" wide then I know it will probably be okay. The other big factor in this is your kerf width because that's what the program uses to determine if it can fit a toolpath in there. I can tell you with the Cut 60 and the 1.1mm nozzle on your torch your kerf is between .60" and .65" wide (mine is .62"). Now you can cheat this by lying to the software and telling it your kerf is smaller but remember it will have an effect on your cut quality for the whole piece because now the program thinks all of your cut widths are skinnier than they really are and it will adjust the toolpath accordingly so it's best to just change the handful of cuts in design that are too small. Sorry for the long post, but this is all stuff I learned the hard way and it's a really good question because it WILL come up with anyone new to CAD/CAM like I was. Good luck!

@@galtsgarage5775 Perfect. Thanks for taking the time to reply. appreciate you.. As for my Machine torch, I wa having problems with it so Primeweld sent me a new one. I have not had a chance to use my table/torch at all for the past 6 months. illness.. regardless, they also sent and suggested to use 0.9 mm nozzles.

@@michaelwenmanK7USN I've used the .6 and .9 nozzles and I'm not a fan, they just can't tolerate much amperage. If you're cutting stuff like 16 gauge and thinner they will probably be fine, they will also shrink your kerf. On the flip side if you're cutting 14 gauge and up you are going to need the 1.1mm nozzles. It's all about the amperage with the nozzles so be mindful the amperage ratings for each of the nozzles is pretty accurate from PrimeWeld and I wouldn't exceed them.

I just bought an Electron system if that tells you anything. It's not terrible don't get me wrong, but it wasn't good enough and the hardware that comes with it (hoppers in particular) were trash. Their customer service is not great and they curate the reviews on their website. I would not recommend anyone buy from Columbia Coatings. There is a rant video coming at some point in the future when I have more time. I've been meaning to do it for a few months now I've just been buried.

I didn't find any videos on StripOxy, the Strippaint I've seen work in a video. Otherwise, no reason. Have you used StripOxy?

I have not. Supposedly the StripOxy works faster. The advantage I see to strippaint is that it is safe on magnesium parts.@@galtsgarage5775

I went to Home Depot, they sell the studs and the C-channel which is probably what she meant by the tracks. The C channel is the top and bottom plate and the studs are the verticals.

@@galtsgarage5775 nice I had a feeling it was the top and bottom thank you're helping me a lot .

That's an easy fix, it will become second nature eventually. When you get that error all you have to do is change the origin point of the cut. If your program is running from one of the top corners and your home is bottom left it will see there isn't enough space but if you change your origin point to the top left it will clear the error and you'll be ready to go. There is a "change origin" button left hand side towards the top right near "go to work zero".

Do you mean how wide is the cut or how thin of a piece of metal can it cut? Both depend on the plasma cutter you have hooked up to your table and the type of nozzle you are using. I have a Primeweld Cut60 hooked up to my table and it will cut any thickness of steel from just over 5/8" thick down to 20 gauge with no problems. The width of the cut depends on the type of nozzle tip you are using, I use 1.1mm nozzles and they give me a cut width (cut width is called the "kerf") of .062". I can use nozzles down to .6mm but the smaller the nozzle the less amperage you can cut with which means thinner metal cutting. The 1.1mm nozzle you can cut with 60 amps so I can cut maximum thickness. I think the .6mm nozzle can only be used up to 20 amps which would get you through maybe 16 gauge if you ran a slow enough speed and pierce delay.

Cabinet system alone, I do have a pot system parked right next to the cabinet but I mostly just use it for larger stuff outside when it's too big to fit in the cabinet. I would like to do a pot system into the cabinet but I only get about 15 minutes of blasting with my pot before I have to reload it, the cabinet system is a closed loop so I only have to reload it when it runs out of the powder becomes too fine.

Ok thanks. I did the pot mod from ameriblaster and it made my gf pot 100x better but I’m in the same boat with the air supply

@@jrobmycrt74 I'm good on air, I just upgraded my compressor. New one makes 38CFM@100PSI so I can run non-stop and then some!

You might be right, I'm still learning. I just bought the Electron E-Coat Master for multi-color with the box feeder. I'll get some videos up on that in the next couple of weeks.

@galtsgarage5775 I hear those guns are awesome for the money. Lookin forward to more vids!

I would like to get a little more experience with the machine first, but I'm interested.

Nah, I'm definitely going to stick with the plasma table juice. It's specifically made for the purpose and I don't much mind of the table freezes, it thaws pretty quick when you're running it. It hasn't frozen more than the surface so it hasn't been an issue and it has been single digits to below zero F in there before.

I will double check that, I'm pretty sure they are not bonded outside of the main panel.

@@galtsgarage5775 Problem i saw with the ground is that you're using the ground of the power wire(plug) to carry current from your lights and fan back to your breacker box. should have used 4 wire cord. (L1,L2,N,G). technically shouldn't hurt anything, by code there should never been current on a ground

@@josephpatterson2722 I had to go back and look at it I see what you are saying now. The ground coming in through the plug that runs from the panel is actually hooked up to the neutral bus bar in the main panel, and my main is bonded. You're probably right that it's not code but it's not bringing amperage to the oven control panel it's acting as a neutral for the L2 power that is powering the fan and lights in the oven.

@@galtsgarage5775 So if you're using it as a neutral, which is what I was referring to (neutral carries current) then there is no means of proper grounding ("proper" grounding is a seperate wire) If anyone were to work on it later they may assume the green is ground and could present a hazard. 100% safety thing, will function properly (the possible problem is that say a wire that has current gets chaffed or loose and is touching the cabinet (its super rare), now the cabinet has voltage potential and if anyone touches it they provide path to ground and get shocked (killed). with a proper ground, when that happens the path is present and it trips the breaker.

Sorry forgot to add this last part......basically if you are using 240v only you can have L1, L2 and ground and be good. If you need 120v as well you have to either convert the 240v with a transformer, or provide a 4 wire system (L1, L2, N and ground)

No I wore my PAPR welding helmet which pumps filtered air into the helmet, keeps the toxic fumes out when you're welding stainless or galvanized so I figured it would work fine for this. Also had the door open and a fan blowing across the table. I knew ahead of time the galvanized was nasty stuff, luckily.

@@galtsgarage5775 I made the mistake of welding it ONE TIME. Learned my lesson quick! I need to get the fancy air filtration system like yours eventually but it is so darn expensive!

I have a nice Miller unit, found it on Craigslist for $400 which was a great deal. They even had it professionally cleaned and sterilized. I would look for one in the used market, even if you have to send it out to be cleaned professionally. One of the best investment's I've made. Stainless is really nasty, but you know if you're breathing it in right away because the fumes kind of smell/taste like tomatoes.

In my area the price has varied between $160-$200 for a 4x8 sheet of 14g cold rolled over the past 18 months trending downward. They usually shear it for me into 4-2x8 pieces or whatever I ask for but they don't charge me for that.