Видео

Hopefully someone here has some knowledge. Check the forums too.

Appreciated!

@@kawdzilla 🤜🤛

Sure was.

Nice

It was indeed $5 each, just like birdy said. Might depend on location.

Great point, if you have a tire machine and balancer this video isn't really relevant. I'd love to have that setup.

@@kawdzilla Took me years but I finally broke down and bought one a few year ago, totally worth it..

Thanks man! Appreciate you

Perks of AWD. When you have all the traction you use all the pedal.

You're referring to the little audible dinger switch?

@@kawdzilla No sir...the actual ignition switch at the bottom of the steering lock assy. The lock assy is discontinued in the US, you can get em from Japan, probly, on ebay... but the OEM switch portion from an EK bolts up and worked. It's alot easier, and you keep your matching key to doors.

The springy action you feel in start position is actually in the white and black plastic switch assy.

@@boostismagic oh yes, I'm tracking. That's a good option. My door lock cylinders are getting replaced soon anyway since they're basically unusable, so matching wasn't a concern for me at least.

@@kawdzilla 👍 Gotta get creative on these parts now..also just fitted a heater valve from an Odyssey. same valve as ours, but ave to re-use Civic bracket and the little throw lever that the cable attaches to. The OEM one is cheaper than the aftermarket which most have bad reviews. Race car may not need heater either, 😅

That B series was fast as hell. Excellent driver and definitely out braking me in the corners.

@@kawdzilla is that just an OEM k20 oil pump?

@@boostismagic yep.

Top strip just pulls out. Side pieces, pull from the inside edge and squeeze outwards and pull away from the glass, then up. If you're not trying to save them, just yank em out, the clips will probably break anyway if they're old and brittle.

They're old Enkei wheels 15x6.5, similar to the current J10. Not made anymore I don't think.

Appreciate it! Knocked off some rust making this one lol.

Thank you sir. Very true. Setting the bead with the air compressor will be more difficult with a flimsy sidewall tire however.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.

They are indeed. At least it’s got an LSD. Wagon parts all around. VC rebuilt by Trustfab, stock diff, custom rear driveshaft, modified stock front shaft, both completely redone with 1310 u-joints. S1 Alpha arms, FCS diff mount, insane shaft swap axles all around.

@@kawdzilla oh damn that’s overkill for na you should boost it

@@Gameworldplus1 rather start with overkill than have to fix it later when it’s boosted.

@@kawdzilla oh 100% I thought you were staying na

@@Gameworldplus1 Just taking my time, enjoying the simplicity of NA for now.

Truly, nothing else works lol

I’m all ears…

@dsw3rvin pretty sure he’s making a joke directed at Honda drivers always bouncing off the rev limiter. Could be wrong though.

@@Brenden.Riley. that’s where the power’s at baby.

Well now you can live vicariously here.

Thank you! Such a great platform for road racing. Happy to see people are interested in this, I'd love to keep this going.

It's a beautiful sound. Myers competition fender exit header. Because race car.

Don’t have one. Still looking for one that’s compatible with the awd rear bracket.

Well I’m flattered!

Appreciate it! I know right? I’ve never seen another one on a track.

@@kawdzilla AWDHONDA time attack has an integra that they track

330mm

100% needs a tune at WOT, feels a bit boggy when it's that rich. Type S basemap certainly isn't accounting for the side dump exhaust. Idles perfectly at 14.7 though...small wins.

@@kawdzilla hey man, youre at the track get seat time and learning the car. Thats all the matters. Even with that tune thats on there right now the thing would never blow up anyways, those motors are solid. Id ask the tuner to leave it a little rich (maybe 12.5) on wot to keep cooler cylinder temps, since on the track the car experiences high load for 20 minutes nonstop at times.

Was thinking the same :)

Dyno tune scheduled for next week. Stay tuned.

Dyno tune done, stay tuned for a video update. New track session video here: ruclips.net/video/0UHH35YCwDs/видео.html.

Such a clean Accord and sounds wild too. Good seeing you there!

Tell me more...

Appreciate that. Lots of work to be done yet.

CRV transmission woes...the JDM 5.062 FD is actually the shortest final drive of any Honda trans that I know of. It's the gear ratio spread that's the problem.

Inspired by that concept for sure.

Appreciate the sentiment, but this car wasn’t built to be the fastest k swap in the world. It was built to be awd.

I'd like to add that it MAY be faster in the dry with fewer drivetrain losses and less weight, but OP said it was unimaginably better in the wet being AWD. To be fairer to your argument, it'd be the best it could be in the dry if he put the engine and transaxle behind himself and made a de-dion axle for the rear, and that's both whether he paired that setup with AWD or left it RWD only. I still think AWD will be superior in the wet either way, but at the very least a transverse MR setup with de-dion axle would be faster than your FWD proposal.

Sorry boss, got you mixed up with the other silver s2k that was definitely k swapped. Good driving out there!

They change the layout frequently, pavement isn't great and no runoff strips or curbs, but we work with it. It's a police pursuit training course too.

Ehh, he could also J swap it. Built N/A J35s can do 400hp/300tq, and with a 6-1 header or an equal length 6-2-1 setup it'll scream like an RB26, too. Best part is the reliablity and response of N/A + still having an abundant but controllable power-to-weight ratio.

No need for turbo boost. Changes the responsiveness

Yeah I love the J series, but rather not have my engine sticking out the hood in this chassis. Always wanted to J swap a 5th gen lude though, that chassis is begging to be rwd...

@@kawdzilla Just noticed it said EG in the description and yeah, those are pretty flat cars. Even a custom intake and dry sump might leave you needing a power bulge in the hood... However, if you want a lower-profile V6 with potentially less weight and even more torque, look into a Chevy LV3. It's a 4.3L V6, but the modern all-aluminum one based on the Gen 5 LS (called LT) platform. Off-the-shelf cams can get you 380-crank but if you study David Vizard's teachings and get a proper cam for it, you can push 450+ at the crank(in the same rev range, mind you), which should translate to 360+ at the wheels. And that's to say nothing of making it high compression and doing some head work to it, also, which David Vizard can ALSO teach you about the best practices. Oh, and don't forget the idea of a mid/rear engine swap. You could definitely get the J in there that way. And if you make it rear engine and find a way to reverse the gearbox's final drive output, it won't even encroach on the cabin all that much. You'd have a sizable space behind the front seats to put things or lean them back. Or have a midship fuel cell. Maybe even both.

Yep, stock CRV 5.062.

Best the Twin Cities has to offer unless you get up to BIR. We work with what we got.

Indeed...

I also want to know the same answer to the question 😊

This was everyone’s question at the track too. Yes and no. Yes I’ve run it fwd, but not with this engine. It used to be H2B turbo, 360whp. The car is way…way more driveable in the current configuration. Yes, it’s probably a bit slower than fwd K20 in the dry, all else equal, considering drivetrain losses. Wet it’s no contest, awd destroys of course, and it did that morning in the rain. I notice less liftoff oversteer, way less throttle out understeer exiting corners, and overall more stability compared to fwd (I drove it in events for years before it was awd swapped).

Thank you! More on the way.

Yes they are, new from Honda.

Windshield first, then moldings.

Ordered from eBay, oem Honda so they came from Japan.

Not sure about the '19. Another commenter had something to say about that generation below. Might be able to tell you more.