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It’s always a good idea to check references and go look at jobs they’ve done.

And also the board and batten part, thanks

I believe the board and batten is Certainteed Colonial White 8”

The clapboard siding was Norandex double 4” White.

Thanks!

You’re welcome! ☺️

Thanks! And I appreciate that! I’m trying to keep my channel fairly PG. 😊

😊

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome!

Not that I’m aware of. With vinyl you gotta be sure the housewrap is on correctly otherwise you will have leaks. I have seen people bend a tab down at either edge and that probably is a good practice.

@@sidingschool on the smaller pieces that cant contract a great deal , like that drip cap , pinned between j channels, is there a preferred caulking for vinyl?

I may do a demonstration on this… I’m going to add it to my list now.

Yeah I could’ve warmed it up a bit… I figured I could get it done though. If you’re dealing with vinyl siding there’s no need to let it dry. I’ve siding plenty of houses in the rain. Once the sun hits the wall it should dry out and be mostly dry from there on out.

There’s definitely a lot of truth in what you are saying. I can be pretty hard headed, I like to think I can still do things and I am addicted to the feeling of accomplishment after a good days work. My plan is/was to gradually transition more and more in to teaching. But I think you are right, I need to shift my focus quickly from being productive to creating content. I need to change my mindset a little. I appreciate your advice and I will be taking it to heart.

Must be wood siding? It sounds like you have the right idea… I would look out for rotten areas where it is saturated and take down siding from that area down. Just to be sure there’s no rot in the walls.

That’s a good name I guess 🧐. And thank you! I’m back at it now. Hope you’re doing well too! Spine surgery is no joke!

You’re welcome! I’m happy it helped you out! 😊

😎

Thanks!

Awesome! 😎 Glad it helped!

Yep, helpers sometimes are not very helpful! Glad you got it fixed up!

For this demonstration I actually pulled off a few pieces and fully engaged the clips. This moved them all up and made it so that piece was flopping… a piece of siding that keeps coming loose is a pretty common problem so it was worth recreating the issue. So yeah, my house didn’t have the problem but I thought it would be helpful to demonstrate how to fix it for those that do have the problem.

Thanks for the feedback! I turned up the volume as much as they’d let me, I guess I’ll have to look at additional methods of turning it up.

i do a lot of my own home stuff repairs and what not...and just had my house resided in the last year ...and my best friend he owns elk county contracting so he did it and did a great job... but there is some things that i want to cover with siding that he did not manly because they were not the way they are now when he did the job... but now that i have got them in the almost finish scenario...i wanted to finish them off with some siding ...and i am doing it myself with some extra vinyl siding that was left over ...so having someone who has great ideas and breaks it down in a manner that i can easily replicate is awesome! i can ask my friend but he already gave me a great deal and then he put my roof on for free i just had to buy the metal so i dont want to think i am taking advantage of him or not appreciative of everything he did for me...i value my friends too much...so i Appreciate ya man I live in Kersey PA Elk COunty PA! High wind area so this way of 45 ing j channel works for my area and purpose times a 100! THanks man!

You have a great friend! I’m glad you’re finding these videos helpful!

Awesome! Just fyi there is a slight chance that if you look closely up the wall that you could see the nails under the siding. You’d have to know what to look for and if you use a rigid starter strip there’s probably less of a chance of seeing the nails because that should hold the siding tighter against the wall.

There’s no other way to attach the j-channel other than to nail or staple it near the bottom, it’s not going to magically hold itself. That is a fact across the industry. The manufacturer’s instructions say to hold the j-channel up off from the roof, that is correct… they are worried about it melting or deforming, I’ve yet to see that happen in the northeast (in hotter parts of the country it’s probably a good idea to follow their guidelines). I hold the j channel to the roof to cover up the shiny silver step flashing, it looks ugly if left exposed. And as far as drilling holes idk why I’d want to do that… there’s gaps in the j channel that’ll allow water to escape. And even if water was to build up to the top of the face of the j channel, they put the nail holes in the nail fin higher up than the face of the j channel so water will never build up to where it leaks on the backside of the j.

@@sidingschool thank you for the kind reply and taking time teaching us. First, with all respect, I hope this comes as constructive discussion and I understand that you have many years on the job. The stapples I was referring to is regarding stappling of the house wrap near the bottom corner (see at 16:48). It should be taped onto the step flashing. For the water build up, for slope, water can run down (side way/horizontally) into the groves of the siding, and over spill into the wall.

No problem. I actually think open discourse can be a good thing on my channel. I have not deleted a single comment yet and I hope not to. The staples in the counter flashing down low are tucked so far under the eaves that there is very little risk of it causing any problems. Taping the housewrap could be a better practice in a scenario where there’s no overhang… all that said, there will always be penetrations through the housewrap (and yes that includes down low through flashing pieces, the installer needs to be careful not to put them in the bend or below it), I think the idea is that the holes are tiny and the potential for water immersion is incredibly small. As far as water tracking sideways on a rib of the siding. Again I believe there is very low risk there as well. If this happens the housewrap will wick out the water. In both cases the amount of water immersion is really minimal (if there is any water immersion) and will be handled by the housewrap. This video was done on my brother’s house and there are no problems with any leaks or water immersion anywhere on the house. Thanks for your comments!

Thanks! It’s good to be back! Starting a job rehabbing a deck this Monday 😊

Thanks!

I’m not quite sure I’m understanding exactly what you mean, but you shouldn’t need to worry about the corner post at all when replacing a horizontal piece of siding. There’s a few pretty good videos on how to “cap” a broken corner post on RUclips… you can search it up or I can provide a link for ya (I haven’t made a video of that method yet). I made a video on how to replace the entire corner post - nail fin and all. You can find that here: ruclips.net/video/ABNDlmaGdrA/видео.htmlsi=Nx8NDFCQFPazEg7k Hope this helps! Good luck!

​@@sidingschool Thank you! I never got notified you had responded. I do have another question. Could you fix this by just hammering a starter piece strip in a bit lower and attaching the loose piece to that instead? I'm trying to picture in my mind if this would work or not? I have a damaged piece of siding, very bottom panel, and haven't removed it yet, so I'm not sure exactly what's under there, but it feels like a strip of something. Not sure if what's under there is a strip or a panel, something like in your first example?

A piece of starter should work fine… you may have to still cut off the nail fin and clip otherwise it’ll be angled out quite a bit. For the bottom piece, yeah there should be a piece of starter already under it. This video may be helpful too: ruclips.net/video/iuzBQf7LW6I/видео.htmlsi=g4m125r8sv5j2Xni

@@sidingschool Do you know if galvanized metal strip available on a popular online store would work? It's cheap.

Galvanized should be fine. I’ve used it before. I prefer aluminum because it won’t rust and it is easier to cut, but galvanized steel is just fine too.

You can send a picture to brandonconstructs at g mail

That’s a good idea! I’ll add it to my list… I have made a video on all my tools that you can find here: Tools needed to install vinyl siding ruclips.net/video/56usQKefShc/видео.html But I haven’t made a video about how to use them.

The rails have a felt weather strip where the door contacts it. If someone is concerned about water getting in between the rails and their exterior door trim they could always caulk the rail to the door trim. Also as I made a note of: the rails can most likely be set on the threshold (that’ll close the gap on the rail part) and I adjusted the sweeper to go a little tighter later on. My mindset on these doors is that they are to create an air pocket that’ll save on heating and cooling… they aren’t necessarily to prevent water immersion (but maybe I should change my mind on that). Thanks for your comment!

You’re welcome! More to come!

👀

Glad to hear it!

Thanks! And I’m glad you are liking the channel! Hope you’re feeling better!

It sounds like you have board and batten vinyl siding? That could be a harder fix… it might require taking the siding off all the way to the loose piece. Then if there’s any cutouts (for windows, light blocks, etc, it might require new pieces of siding. Unless you’re able to use method one… another problem with the first method is if you look closely underneath the siding you may be able to see the nails.

Pas de problème 😊

That’s awesome! 😎

I’m not sure that it can be made 100% correct, but there’s a couple methods that you could use. What you mentioned (nailing every other piece to studs) would help. Although if the pieces aren’t true to 8” there’s a chance you’ll wander off the studs. If it’s not too late to pad the windows and doors out, you could add some kind of padding horizontally that is nailed to the studs… then you’d have solid nailing on every piece.

Keith, I also have celotex in non rigid areas under my 31 year old siding. I want to do this to my house as well. What did you end up doing? I was thinking of tearing out the celotex and replacing with plywood. Thanks for any suggestions in advance. Thanks!

@@ed370zx3 I have a rock front on the bottom of the house and my pieces of siding are under 5' long. I ended up just nailing the siding as it fell on the runs. We will see if I made a mistake, but there were runs that nailed into studs as I went across the front of the house. Good luck with your project.

Thanks for the compliment!

There may come a day when that happens 🤷🏼‍♂️. Fiber cement has silica which isn’t good either. It seems like everything we humans do has unintended consequences. Vinyl siding serves its purpose - for now.

You could follow this process pretty close to the same I would think. I might just take the nail fin completely off on metal J and only have a little rain tab. I think a lot of people run the trough a little long on the top j-channel to get the water away from the wall somehow…. It may be worth looking up metal j-channel installation techniques. Good luck!

Glad to help!

Working underneath a roof edge with no gutter while it's raining is the worst! Not only do you get normal rain falling on you but all the rain dripping off the roof edge right in your face, pouch, arms, etc. I absolutely hate working in the rain, its not so bad getting a little wet in a sprinkle but getting all my tools wet so they rust is the worst ever.

Yeah the install wasn’t spectacular that’s for sure! I’m split between keeping my joints 3’ apart and having a small piece on the end… typically I try to stay longer than a foot though. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Yep, double the fun! I’ve had my chalk line floating in my bags before. I’ve learned with that one though… as soon as there’s a little sprinkle my chalk line goes back in the trailer or in the house!

Hi Konrad, yeah chalking a line above openings is a good way to ensure the siding stays straight. There’s a few alternatives too: using a string line set out far enough where it passes by windows without being in contact with them, starting the siding above in a straight line and finishing the wall then coming back down to the bottom and just measuring up to the bottom of the siding, starting siding straight down low if you can and just kind of “sending it” and hoping that they line up up top (not really recommended).

Oh and a laser to shoot across everything, but you need to make sure that your measurements on each corner are accurate.

@@sidingschool a laser instead of a chalk line to reference to?

Yes as long as it works out for the top and bottom of the wall too. Sometimes with re-sides things can get a bit funky.

You’re welcome!

Thanks! 😊

That’s a joke, I’m glad to help though!

No problem! And yeah, it takes a bit of practice! Thanks for your comment!

Yep, they usually will…. I left out that I did see a different Dr first, but that was without insurance. He was kind and helpful, but ultimately I wasn’t comfortable with his level of expertise… he was more of a general surgeon who had done like 300 laminectomies (which is admittedly quite a bit). But also this Dr wasn’t very established at the practice he was operating out of, so I couldn’t really be sure of his history. Eventually I had to start all over again at NH Neurospine. And yep, it went like this: PT, shots, then surgery. There’s no a silver bullet solution from what I’m told. There’s many different ways to approach the problems. I was told I would need a L4-S1 laminectomy with fusion (by the first Dr), then just a L4 left laminectomy and discectomy, then L4-S1 laminectomy. I ended up going with Dr. Thomas’s final suggestion. I agree, It’s important to do your own research and find a doctor you can trust. Good luck!

Oof, yeah, vinyl can be sharp! Maybe twisting them together is the better option! I’ve gotten quite used to slipping them together, but it takes a while. I don’t really use even pressure, because then when something goes it tends to let loose completely (kinda hard to explain, but I tend to use small jerky motions).

@sidingschool 100% but thanks to your technique I got all of the j trim installed on my shed, I'll post a video and tag you once I've got the rest of the vinyl siding up!

Awesome, I look forward to seeing it!