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This is what’s on the power supply, hope it helps MODEL: ADS-6AM-06 05050EPB INPUT: 100-240V- 50/60Hz Max. 0. 3А OUTPUT: 5.0V --= 1.0A 5.0W

Unfortunately, that’s not actually possible, it’s only able to set “every x amount of days”

Yeah. Have discovered changing the frequency changes the date but not in a logical way. Going to wait till day of cycle then add desired frequency. Trying to move to Sat or Sun for half price rate.

That makes the most sense, saves a few quid

No, not quite! As soon as it gets colder I’ll get some of them working flat out, it’s not much louder to be honest

@i85_Heat_Pumps I have a Monobloc olimpia s1 E 6 metters from my room and in the morning soon sounds like a Tractor, and wake me up. In another house that I slept, with a 16Kw machine (but not monobloc) Altherma sounds like 3 times less.

How do you find it performs in normal mode? Next experiment for me will be cost difference between normal and eco mode and set temperatures

@i85_Heat_Pumps I find it's better in normal mode. I also find the reduce time is beneficial as my heating is on longer as the HW generation is shorter. Noise levels will rise tho.

Will be in interesting comparison! Thanks for the info

For the underfloor heating? • Function test all components • check for leaks and/ or damage to manifold and/ or components • Check flow rates match the design for each loop • Check heating fluid water quality, flush system if needed • Check how the underfloor heating is being operated, this will based on the heat source that you are using (boiler, heat pump etc) and your electric tariff

MELCloud will not damage the system, it is designed by Mitsubishi for your heat pump, it will allow remote access for end user and Mitsubishi where you may be able to benefit from remote software updates

Put in the sun to recharge the battery

@i85_Heat_Pumps I presume it will only connects to the control unit and the boiler. But not the wifi? Currently the boiler randomly kicks in so I'm a bit stumped. 😞

Yes, It doesn’t connect to the wifi, it connects to the wireless receiver

This sort of scenario happens a lot, unfortunately it’s not possible to restrict the temperature ranges on the SensoComfort. But there are other options, you can lock the control with the button on the top, which they will figure out very quick Move the SensoComfort out of range from people Hide the SensoComfort in a locked cupboard and change the room temp mod to inactive and reduce the heat curve a little Or fit a 3rd part thermostat so that you can lock or temperature restrict the heating. Not great opinions but some ideas for you

@ thanks a lot for your help

Not sure off the top of my head, but you can contact Wunda directly and they will send them out to you

@ thanks I’ll try that .

It sure is

@i85_Heat_Pumps Is this UFH on a heat pump?

Im guessing it's a hight temp one?

Yes it’s on a heat pump

Once the card has been inserted correctly (it can be difficult to get this right) , the system will restart automatically, has this happened?

@@i85_Heat_Pumps No, the system did not reboot. I checked in the System Info but it seems that the card is not installed (Wifi Gateway Not Connected). I also thought that it was not inserted correctly, but even trying several times (even with the system off) it still does not see the module

Mainly system glitches, was mainly for older heat pumps, not as common on modern heat pumps. Most manufacturers would recommend this to be done if there’s was any issues

Or will they stop once they are fully open before they will actually come off of the manifold?

On the underfloor heating? Yes they will completely unscrew and the heating fluid will come out. They do get a bit harder to turn before they completely unscrew

Not sure, you should have options there for heating and hot water control

Not a clue sorry without seeing or knowing what parts are fitted to the system and how it’s meant to run

I’ll sort that issue out later, thanks for letting me know!

@@i85_Heat_Pumps Brilliant, love your response and honesty. I too like constructive feed back. It does amaze me how often people say nothing, when a few words will help. Thank you.

Updated to remove the other video links 👍

@@i85_Heat_Pumps thank you!

Is the zone calling for heat and actuator open? Is the pump on?

@ yes all that is going on. But I have 3 for one zone for example and one of them is all the way down the other 2 are all the way up. My boiler keeps having an error for pressure

Might need to change the user mode to installer, code 5678

No problem!!

I know, but if you have the app the heat curve is easily accessible!

Low system pressure can be topped up by using the fill loop

I need help getting my heating to wok, it’s paused and it’s freezing

There should be a specific flow rate for each loop, dependant on loop length etc, it’s not all about speed. There are buttons on the pump so that you can change mode & speed if needed

@@i85_Heat_Pumps it's at full speed. I'm a plumber myself so I understand the flow rates. I need them all around 2 this pump is unable to achieve that at full speed. It's only 8 circuits and none of them went over 70 metres. It has to be a faulty pump. I've the same setup in another part of the house but with a grundfos pump and it works fine. That pump could get each circuit up to five litres per minute if I wanted it to.

Glad it was helpful!

It depends on what your system has been designed to do and what heat emitters you have, but generally with Heat Pumps the lower the flow temperature the better the efficiency

That seams to be the general opinion of these doesn’t it 😂

Yes there’s a timer function, you’ll need to factory reset it and change the mode to MODE 2, this changes everything from a thermostat to a time clock. Page 32 of the manual: www.elementshop.co.uk/Cache/Downloads/neoStat-V2-Manual.pdf Hope this helps

@@i85_Heat_Pumps Waaaaaaau you are a life saver 😍 I am definitely going to try it over the weekend. Thank you

The max is about 60°c on these

@i85_Heat_Pumps thanks for replying! So it's safe to have it up higher?

If it’s not warm enough then turn it up. Make sure that the power is isolated from the immersion first, before removing and covers or making adjustments. if in doubt get a plumber or electrician to help/ assist

Is it like a horizontal line with vertical wavy lines? If so that’s the symbol for electric backup heater. There another one that’s a vertical line with what looks like horns almost touching and the top, that’s the symbol for noise reduction mode. I have no knowledge of a $ symbol sorry

No its not that, simple its like symbol S with circle around. It looks like dollar symbol. Thanksfor your effort anyway, I will search further.

The actuators are stellantrieb 2

@i85_Heat_Pumps thanks for letting me know. What's the best way to get in touch?

Personally I would only heat it to what I need, there’s no point in having too hot and adding loads of cold water to get the temperature right.

What does it say in the live monitor, the 3 lines should flick to a message; either standby - no demand. Compressor blocked, then gives a message why

@@i85_Heat_Pumps It's saying: Domestic Hot Water Blocked then after Building Circuit Flow Too Low. 1.5 bar water pressure, 320 l/h building circuit flow rate, compressor anti cycling 2 mins. Quite stumped with this one. I've got 3 zones and 3 circuits on the thermostat, all 3 circuits set to heating and off at the moment

@@i85_Heat_Pumps Do you think it maybe a blocked strainer preventing the heat pump from running?

Yes, more than likely

Check the live monitor for a message, if nothing try switching heat pump and control off for 5 mins then back on again and see if it helps

​@@i85_Heat_Pumps How do I switch the heat pump and control off manually is it just on the sensohome panel? I've got Domestic Hot Water blocked building circuit flow rate too low and the 1.5 bar water pressure and 320 l/h building circuit flow rate

Yeah that flow rate is a bit low, check this video on cleaning filters: Clean Filters WILL improve performance of your HEAT PUMP ruclips.net/video/7PfIDnRpzpo/видео.html What size heat pump is it?

Rotary isolator by the heat pump and a switch by the white control/ wiring centre. Should be a video in the Vaillant playlist about a hard reset

@@i85_Heat_Pumps It's an Arotherm plus 7kw unit

Would have thought that waterproofing was a bit of a priority when it comes to external electrical connections…

There’s way too many variables to answer that sorry! Depends on system design, heat emitters, how long has the system been fitted, how is heating being controlled etc. as a very basic rule, long run times and low flow temperatures will help improve COP’s

3.2 is from your setting 56.1/17.4=3.22 My Samsung gen6 is only doing 2.18 at September , I am looking for ways to improve my setup.

They shouldn’t do once they are set, but there no harm in checking accuracy

@@i85_Heat_Pumps thanks for your message. do you just use another thermostat to check the temperature and then use that reasding t recalibrate the Heartmiser?

I usually use 2 additional thermostats or thermometers and take an average of all 3

Yes I agree, but this is how Vaillant state it is done for their heat pump

You may need a signal repeater

Your best bet would be to have a look at the Heat Geek approved installers in your area

You’ll have to email heatmiser for assistance support@heatmiser.com They will guide you through the steps needed to take