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Interesting

Just for a minute which was useful since that's where the sink is and I needed to re-wet the cloth a couple times. I don't think the mother cat would have stood for me doing it in front of her either. The kitten was pretty peaceful for the procedure though.

From what I read, they're not too picky about which brassica they chomp upon.

Yeah, I have a lifelong goal of keeping all my digits and limbs intact🙂. Usually, if something doesn't want to feed you can kind of poke it through with the next stick without sticking your hand down the chute. Also, the more you can cut down any Ys in your branches the easier they will feed. Thanks for the comment.

I didn't try one, out of sour cream.

yep 224cc

No, it didn't come with any internal supports. There is a touch of flex, but so far, any bowing out of the sides has been really minimal even in 2x8 configuration. It probably helps that I did dig down a little bit so that the bottom of the bed is slightly underground and held fast that way, not just sitting on the surface. Thanks for the nice feedback.

There's a video called "How to FIX and STOP a Raised Garden Bed From Caving Inwards" which is worth watching regarding internal supports.

That sounds a little bit less than easy, but it's an interesting idea. It would be nice to have an alternative to the bag which is already developing some holes after only maybe 10 hours of use...

I haven't done a deep dive (just eyeballing it with a tape measure), but the *outside* diameter of the chipper feed chute appears no more than 3". I'm guessing if I removed it, I would see the same numbers as you are describing.

I've added another video with such additional details. Hope it helps. ruclips.net/video/xBQrhXV7atg/видео.html

It's good to have goals, but that one may not be achievable. 🙂 Live your best life, my friend.

Thanks for the comment, I can see that working well in some situations. I did actually try this first on some other stumps, but didn't have as much success as I've seen in other videos. At least it was no substitute for extensive digging. The ground is pretty rocky so I was going through blades pretty fast. I reverted back to the axe which still severs roots pretty quickly and is relatively easy to sharpen back into a working edge.

Thanks for the nice feedback!

Perhaps you are mistaking a fence for a shed. Otherwise, I don't know either.

I agree that a taller stump will give more leverage for pulling it over, as can be seen in this other video of mine ruclips.net/video/mLu_oIWJJyk/видео.html. Above where this stump was cut off was not so much trunk as widely splaying branches, so that's why reality unfolded as it did. I tried to leave something for a chain to get purchase on at least.

Perhaps you should have been there doing it so it would be done right.

@@rodm5830 you're right. I should have...

I agree that the quick links are the weak point in the system. Presuming the ratings stated on packages are accurate, a zinc 5/16" quicklink is 1500 lbs (higher for stainless or 3/8"). I would be interested to hear any proposed stronger attachment method.

A truck is basically a movable anchor if you can't find anything else suitable.

@@independentnature295 Bingo

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Hehe, Good one

Makes sense, I just had the more interesting side of the chipper toward the camera for the video. Thanks

I'm not sure what that means.

Mine is a Hi-Lift HL-484, but I don't think there is all that much difference between brands. A 48 inch model will give you quite a bit more travel which comes in handy for taking up slack and overall pull length when using it as a winch. I think Harbor Freight has a Badlands 48" model for about that price, which you may or may not want to consider. Capacity will be enough to be helpful, just don't imagine that you're going to avoid having to excavate and sever big roots. If you're putting a lot of effort into the jack and the stump isn't moving, there is good possibility you can break the shear pin.

@@independentnature295 I have just removed a large fir tree and the root this past weekend. It was around 18 inches wide near the base of the tree. I used to work felling trees many years ago. When you are removing big roots you can clean up the soil from the root with an axe and then carefully saw parts of the roots off with a chain saw. When I had got rid of the roots at the sides, I used a farm jack underneath the root, stood on a piece of wood to stop it sinking into the ground. The hardest part is getting the Jack in a position where you can use the lever in the hole to jack it up. The Jack needs to be slanted a bit to push the main part of the root over to break the tap root off. If you know you are going to take the root out before you fell a tree, it is always better to leave the stump as high as possible to get more leverage.

@@feesimple388 I think stumps are ultimately a little weaker to upwards forces than lateral forces since they regularly experience and resist lateral forces while growing. Running the chain over a tire is another way to get more of an upward force from a lateral pull. Thanks for your comment!

I would just buy a 5ton chain hoist...

The plastic ones from 15-20 years with flexi-plastic spout and second capped air hole worked well and to my memory seem like they were relatively cheaper. The manufacturers are probably disinclined to complain about regulations too much because it's their justification for charging a lot more.

Interesting, I do have a smaller gorilla cart and like the build quality, but hadn't seen one as big as the rubbermaid. One other thing I like about the rubbermaid cart is the large wide flat bottom where the gorilla's are more oddly sculpted (to accommodate the steel rails.)

@@independentnature295 Hey thanks! Could I fit 4 regular filled trash bags in this?

@@ThePalePatriot Trash bags come in a lot of sizes, so it's hard to know what you consider regular. I'd be inclined to say yes for all but the largest contractor yard bags. In this other video I mix some potting soil in the cart which might provide more perspective on its size. ruclips.net/video/D7ujqXjNHW0/видео.html

That's been my philosophy and intention. Though longer term I don't want to foster an unnecessarily dangerous situation through complacency either.

Thanks, it has been working out so far. If you're going to try to duplicate the 3 bay shape, really think about the layering of blocks as it seemed impossible to have 2 layers that didn't have a vertical seam going through both in some places. I think I wound up with 3 different layer patterns each used twice for a 6 layer high wall.

@@independentnature295 Great tips, thank you.

I've added another video with additional details. Hope it helps. ruclips.net/video/xBQrhXV7atg/видео.html

I lay some heavy steel corrugated sheeting across the top weighed down with cinder blocks when I want to restrict the top, but that is more aimed at raccoons and probably isn't rat proof. Sometimes I see minor signs of animal activity, but otherwise it hasn't reached a point of annoyance to action. I'm less worried about a rat sneaking around the compost pile than trying to live under shipping containers or other structures, for which I have had good results with the Tomcat rat snap traps.