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The solenoid on the bottom of the carb just shuts off the fuel when the machine is switched off to prevent unburnt fuel being dumped into the exhaust. It has no relevance to fuel mixture.

Unfortunately they are not interchangeable. The square ones are almost impossible to find now. All is not lost. I have some AVRs that will do the trick. They mount outside the alternator housing and are actually sturdier than the original as they feature low frequency protection. The downside is that you will loss the autothrottle feature as the genny sees the avr as a load.

You need to monitor frequency rather than voltage as this will tell you something about engine speed. The only obvious way that the output power can fluctuate is if the engine speed is fluctuation. Could be something simple like dirty carb or broken damper spring on the carburettor linkage

@@Donchampignon thanks. The frequency is also high and fluctuating

So the problem is with your engine not the electrical side. You probably have a dirty carb or broken damper spring on the throttle linkage

I know they are prone to the throttle butterfly getting sticky. Other than that check for blocked carn jets or blocked exhaust.

could be that your throttle stop screw (the big black plastic one) is wound in too far to allow the throttle to close any further.

Im talk about the screw on the AVR,turned counter clock and did not lower the voltage

@@carlosmunoz753 ~~Thats not how you control the voltage. ~There is no adjustment for voltage on the AVR

Bad spark plugs

Or bad ignition coil(s). Replaced mine and good to go.

Yep pretty simple. The genny is running too fast. If you measure the frequency you will probably find its up above 70hz when it should be 50 or 60 in the US. You need to adjust the governor.

@@petepowergenerators Thanks! I reset the govenor arm and now it is running sweet. 48ish Hz at max load and pretty much bang onm at 50Hz / 3000 RPM for a half load. It will never be run at full whack anyway. Can't believe how little it neede to run after 30 years in a shed! Thanks for the reply! Subbed.

Email me at pete@petepowee and i will send you the workshop manual with troubleshooting guide.

I need help about ex 500 no electricity out for 220v. I think the inverter is dead. Where can I find the new inverter? Couldn't find it? Is there any wiring diagram for generator side? Generator is giving voltage but inverter is not output

The main thing to do is to clean the carburettor.

@@petepowergenerators I cleaned the carb it really wasn't dirty. Apparently a leak now I'm going to check today. Now electrical output on a generator that used to with perfectly. Saw a video on the idea of turning a drill backwards whilst plugged into to generator and trigger held on forward. Gonna try

Its an issue if you are not present to switch off the gas. In that situation you would have the gas supplied ia a solenoid val e that is held open by a vacuum operated switch with the vacuum supplied from the engine manifold.

@@petepowergenerators Hi Peter That was the reason for my query as this issue has never - to my knowledge - been addressed. I have owned my Honda EU10i for around 18+ years I think. It stays in the family and I recently purchased a Honda 22i. Very interested in the LPG conversion. Nearly all the petrol generator failures are due to bad or old fuel leading to clogged carbys . Gas engines stink and carrying multiple fuel types is a bummer. LPG seems such a no-brainer that I wondered why Honda did not do it directly, rather than a third party cashing in (with Honda's full approval it seems.) Could Honda view public liability as a possible concern? In my situation the 10i would be running unattended for quite a few hours. I use 9 kg LPG bottles elsewhere and having a single fuel source I had a ...hmmmmm ...what if?....moment. Hence the safety question. I did not realise on-demand and vacuum were incorporated in the regulator as I was quickly informed by a reader. But that just raised another question. Why is that rarely (never?) mentioned?

Honda gx200. The Telairs have Yamaha engines.

You know these would make for an ideal household backup generator with the whole control panel and electric start function. You could easily run the essentials and with good power management even do a bit of cooking/heating water. The max output of 2.7kw is pretty decent for the size.

Sorry, I don't understand the question.

Several possibilties. 1) could your fuel be old? 2) are you certain that the main jet is clear 3) there is a pathway from the idle jet down into the floatbowl. Try squirting carb cleaner into hole at the bottom of the idle jet housing and see if it makes it through the float bowl. 4)Check the o ring on the plastic idle jet. 5) could be caused by low compression resulting from gummed piston rings. Remove spark plug, move piston to bottom of stroke. Squirt about half an eggcup of brake fluid into spark plug hole and leave soak for 24hrs. Pull engine over to eject brake fluid. Refit spark plug. 6) check fuel filter located in outflow fuel tank

@@petepowergenerators Thanks mate, the fuel was brand new, although it did have old fuel in there to begin with, plus I cleaned the little filter in the tank out aswell but I'll try the brake fluid in the cylinder trick and check the pilot jet hole again and hopefully that'll do it Many thanks and all the best 👍

Sounds like partially blocked main jet but sticking piston ring could do the same. If the jet is clear try removing the spark plug get the pist near the bottom of its stroke and pour a few cc of brake fluid into the bore. Then leave it for a couple of days

I see what you mean about running smooth under the string. Low compression sticking piston rings.

@@petepowergenerators Not. The engine starts. Then, when it has idle without an electrical load, the carburetor still draws and adds throttle. When I connect the drill, the motor runs at the same speed without any problems.

Please send me an e-mail. I'll send you a link to my video

ruclips.net/video/fYE26HVeLY4/видео.html

Its not necessary and you would still meed to undo the earthing cable if you wanted to take it out of the chassis

Could be temperature shutdown. Check the radiator fan. A sheet of paper will stick to the grill if the fan is workng.

@@petepowergenerators thanks for your quick reply awesome you got a subscriber great thank you, I will try that.

You can't adjust it. All you can do is change the main jet for a smaller one. As the air at altitude will contain less oxgen , you will need to mix less fuel with it.

@@Donchampignon thnx

new technology inverter pack on the ex500 is about the only difference

@@Donchampignon but are they interchangeable. Can I put the 500 inverter module in a 350 and essentially get a 500. Please only respond if you're 100% certain and if tried this with success

And also, I just got my machine off of eBay delivered today and I checked it out with a kill-a-watt meter (chicago but pretty accurate)and it's putting out a hundred 45 Watts and melted the kilowatt meter. I'm fairly certain it's a failed inverter. Can anybody else confirm with a kill-a-watt meter that yours is putting out a hundred and forty-five and that is normal. The machine started almost by itself when I unpacked it. I just gave it a real quick compression check pull (in my living room lol) and it fired up after about two rotations at compression check speed. The easiest starting 2-stroke I've ever seen.

Hi, I am very familiar with the Domnetic/Electrolux RV generators, in fact I have an LPG converted t2500h fitted in my camper. I am in Barton Mills, Suffolk. You can find my details by Googling "Petepower generators"

@@Donchampignon ahh ok will look you up im in south wales but i cant seem to find anyone who does this sorr of thing if i could get the time when can you fit me in ? 07572615220

If you flashed the field and then got satisfactory output, there is probably nothing wrong with your AVR. Loss of residual magnetism is not an indication of a faulty AVR. It can happen because the load was left connected as the generator stopped or simply due to oxidisation beteen the laminated steel plates that comprise the core of the rotor and the stator. If you find that the residual magnetism is continualy too low to start generation then you can make a connection to the brushes from the battery via a momentary contact push button switch.