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I have a link in one of the videos in the series. Ultimately it was an aftermarket but it fit great. If you check the descriptions in the videos in the series you should find it.

Absolutely! You should see some of the other salvage atvs I have in the playlists. I enjoy these abandoned ‘projects’.

@@VermontLife I followed ur blaster build did great job on that . I'm across the lake in ny

@mikewisher4083 small world. I keep thinking of heading out to NY a little west of you to NYOA for an XC race if I can get myself organized.

Loving it (the blue one) but it’s not a 240. It’s once bored over on an oem cylinder with a 3mm stroker crank and rechambered head (among other things.) I’d have to do the math but it’s not a 240.

@@VermontLife keep up the good work and I will keep watching.

Thanks for the note and glad it's helping.

That doesn’t seem right. I can say I didn’t need to pound anything. Do you think cleaning it up with a Brillo pad or some sand paper then greasing will do the trick or is it way off in size?

@VermontLife Not sure, it appears to be the same size. I'm getting ready to go out there and try to figure it out. Thanks for getting back to me, I didn't think it should be so tight. Getting a wrong/bad part from ebay, imagine that 😒

It's a night and day difference. For anyone thinking of building one up for themself I'd say to build the suspension first, then motor if you still want to. Improving the suspension handling changes the entire feel and rideability even with a stock motor. Considering you already have a big motor I think you'll find that going long travel with some decent shocks and a good steering setup will really open up the fun and comfort.

I had beeswax handy due to having a few hives here and left over burrcomb. Thought I’d try it.

Keep up the great builds you are doing I will keep watching

Lower front of the motor. It’s about the size of a can of soda and will have a black wire running to it from the battery.

@@VermontLife ok thanks

I actually reached out to the owner for some specs. It’s about 4.5 lbs with hardware included. The plate is .5" uhmw polyethylene.

I hadn’t heard that name before. Im having trouble finding them on Google to check them out.

I haven’t had any interference. It’s much cleaner compared to using an FRS radio which I also use for other communications that tends to have a lot of static. Especially clear when on the cell network and going phone to phone too.

@@VermontLife thanks for the reply !

I was actually thinking about that last night. One of the Blasters is a 2nd gear wheelie throttle wheelie machine on a 13t front and I’m thinking of going 14 for some stability and additional speed.

@@VermontLife I’m not so much a speed guy with the blasters as I am w/BANSHEES (you can see in my shorts/post) but just the rideablity in the woods, trails, and hills with out having to shift as much is WAY LESS WEAR on the SHIFT FORKS and having to run the rod out of the machine in high RPM. It is the BEST upgrade for the $10 I did on it

Loving the blasters. Looks like you bought every one in town! Lol Everyone needs more ZZTop in their life!

@Tharpification gotta love some good ZZTop :).

That’s awesome! Glad it helped.

I know right. It’s a Blaster farm over here right now.

The frame is ‘neon yellow ps-1104’ by prismatic colors. Thanks for the note.

One of the first I pulled. Looking back now I cringe a little bit :).

And I take that back… this one was the Polaris I did with in the last few years and yes, painful. Super neglected atvs.

Thanks for the insight. It’s a little odd but I can’t see that any mounts were stressed or bent to see why it’s so tight. So far so good though.

Yes, an air leak can make your two stroke rev to the moon like a runaway. Kills compression making starting and running tough but the lean condition can/will wreck a motor.

Pretty sure it was on its way there until I stepped in. Pretty solid learning experience when just about everything is in a broken state :).

In this case I converted the lighting system to dc power then put a regulator in to provide a consistent 13-14volts to the battery so I didn’t kill it. In the scenario you are proposing you would need to find some form of regulator/rectifier that does the conversion from ac to dc, then regulates the output to the battery otherwise you risk destroying your battery. I’m out of my depth though. I would suspect if you put a dc regulator on an ac circuit you would have issues and fry something.

Thanks for the note! Glad you’ve been enjoying the journey.

Thanks for the insight. I’ll give it another go. It’s been running well so it would make sense. That or my knock off compression tester is also way off :).

Yup kick it like it owes you money. Yeah those cheap compression tester are junk, tusk makes a cheap on that is alrite.

@@CourtJ_ml9to kinda looks like the front grab bar is missing it’s SO BLACK vs THE GREEN

I’m anxious to know the clearances too.. sound like alil piston slap.. I presume it’s a new top-end on this build??

Dyno out here would be awesome. So far I haven’t had any luck finding a place in driving distance that will do/can do an atv.

@@VermontLife they are hard to find because of cost and the knowledge of how to even run one. The one here in Illinois is a “load cell dyno jet chassis dyno (motorcycle/dirt bike/SxS/quad/go-cart)

I hope u didn’t use synthetic (premix) in ur oil-gas mix too.. on “break-in” so the rings seat is 16:1, 3-heats “slight revs” up to operating temp 170’s with crappy “non-synthetic” oil

No troubles so far but what are your thoughts on other makes that also give heel protection?

@@VermontLife I HEAR you ON THAT part that’s forsure…. I’ve left the original heal guards on both my blasters

You had me thinking for a bit about what clamp you were talking about. The exhaust clamp right? Makes perfect sense now that you mention it. I’ll do that. Thanks. Sometimes you can’t believe how obvious something is in hindsight :).

@@VermontLife the air filter flange hose clamp

Yeah, I stopped short for sure. Thanks all for the comments.

@@VermontLife I believe SOME people just do certain things wrong to CREATE the COMMENTS but I see ur TRUE ADMIRATION and ENJOYMENT when working/riding that machine so when I saw ur disappointment on a engine u just put together I HAD TO SAY SOMETHING!!

The rear diff has it's own oil fill at the diff (80w) Otherwise the only oil is wet clutch safe motor oil in the motor case which lubricates the transmission and gears.

Thanks for the note, awesome learning experience and really great to see it come to completion.

@@domenicrauschkolb227 there asr

American Star Racing +3+1 long travel.

These are from amstarmanufacturing.com/ check eBay for the full kits as that’s where I got these and ‘seems’ to be where ASR sells those. (I can’t find this kit on their site.)

These are 1986 trailboss 250 atvs. I’d try RitterCycle.com. I bought a number or parts from him and if anyone has parts he would. Might have to email him to get what you need if you don’t see it on the site. There’s also a preset strong Trailboss/trailblazer Facebook group you might join as well to get plugged into where to get parts and tips. Good luck!

@@VermontLifethanks man

Hi Mark, I can’t say I have any experience with the prairie but the 35 and 45 psi compression sounds really low. I’d check the spec in a manual or forum. I might suggest looking to see if there is a Facebook group for the Prairie’s that could give you better specifics but certainly check that compression spec. Good luck!

It’s such a great project. Enjoy the journey.

That’s awesome!