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hmm, are you sure the new key switch is wired correctly? (I've seen some aftermarket one wired opposite.) You might try jumping red to brown and black to black white to see if anything changes. There's also a pretty good Big Bear Facebook group that might be worth joining to get a conversation going with a larger community. One item you haven't mentioned is the handlebar on/off switch. Open and check that for proper continuity as well. Good Luck!

I have the decal but so far haven’t put any on. Partly because I’m Not sure if I’ll keep these plastics or put a Maier set on and partly because I think about designing a wrap for these.

There's a lot you can do to make it faster but adjusting the throttle cable will only help if the cable is mis-adjusted and not pulling the carb slide all the way up. (It's possible.) I actually geared this one down for more torque and less speed to gain better hill climbing and low end power. That said, if you're handy there is a lot that can be done to these gy6 motors to pull some real power increases but that will cost. Best bang for the buck in my opinion is to play with the gearing and tire choice to optimize your style of riding. For perspective I am geared down two teeth on the drive sprocket from the oem gear and get a top speed of 25mph but, I can tear through the woods over stone walls and logs with ease which the previous gearing could not. I am also running 20in atv tires in the rear now and 21" up front which makes up for some of the speed lost in the gearing change.

@ can upgrading the cvt increase speed. My top speed right now is about 36mph. Is there any way could get up to 40 or 45mph? All I want is more speed. I don’t really climb hills that much so I don’t need more torque. I just want speed.

@@zodiacorion8582 Changing weights in the CVT can change when the cart engages but again your changing when the torque hits. It won't affect top end speed, just low when the drive engages. If you aren't worried about torque you could put on larger tires to obtain more top end or change your drive gear to a larger one but you may find that without enough low end you won't be able to get going from a stop without someone giving you a push. There's a balance. With larger tires or a larger drive gear you might consider heavier weights in the cvt to get that 'oomph' to get started but recognize that the strain may come at the cost of belts snapping.

@@VermontLife ok so heavier weights can engage the clutch more and could make the cart take off faster. And if I if I wanted to change the sprockets for the chain, would a smaller sprocket increase speed or would a bigger sprocket increase speed?

Almost, heavier weights require more centrifugal force before they engage resulting in the belt engaging at higher rpm. For the sprockets it’s about gear ratio. If you count the teeth on the sprocket on the axle (driven gear) and divide by the number of teeth on the engine sprocket (drive gear gear) you’ll have your ratio. A higher ratio is less speed but more torque. Ie a 3:1 ratio will be faster than 2:1.) Easiest way would be to go down one tooth on the drive gear. Two teeth and you’ll probably lose too much low end torque to be useful. Another tip, going DOWN one tooth in the front is like going UP two teeth in the rear. Master ratios and you’ve got it.

There’s a rubber boot that comes from the cylinder to the carb. If you look on a parts diagram on a site like rockymountainatv.con you’ll see a picture and part number. Good luck.

I never used an app. I simply connected mine via buttons on the hardware. Sorry I can't offer any insight on an app.

Thanks for the note. I did a whole series on restoring this one. There’s a playlist on the channel. Congrats on getting your Big Bear.

Thanks for the note. Finding any type of informative manual on these has been tough. I’m thinking about doing a Tao Tao project this winter to break things down as many people ask. What kind of trouble are you having with yours?

@ I actually dont know where to start. I got the quad for free in exchange for a chocolate bar. First red flag.. The guy said «i think it just needs to clean the carburator».. When I got it home, the first thing I saw was that every single cable has been disconnected… The wiring is a complete mess! The rest of the machine looks pretty decent. Some hickups here and there, but nothing that cant be fixed.

@@Traxen93 First goal is to see if you have spark. Test that first. If you have spark then test being able to kill spark with your kill switch. If so then it's quite possible it just needs some carb attention. There's not a lot of electrical that is needed to run. Check the plugs that are undone to see if you think they are lighting system etc. as you won't need those to start and run as an example but test for a good solid spark first.

@@VermontLife The main problem for me is that everything regarding electrisity is black magic. I’ll see what I can do. My best guess Of what’s happening next is that i’m buying a new harness. Some of the wires have popped out of the sockets

It’s getting there. Few more tweaks coming but I’m getting the hang of it.

Thanks for the note! Glad you're finding it helpful.

I haven't yet but I am interested to get that little extra pop on the front for the torque from the 13T. That said though the built Blaster (Blue one) one has a lot of pop. I think I'm going to try one on my Black and Red stock build first for some additional throttle wheelie fun with a little less clutch dump wear.

@ once u do it U WILL UNDERSTAND WHERE IM COMING FROM

Enjoy your build and thanks for the comment.

Could be that you wrecked a one way sprag bearing behind the starter if it still starts on a pull. First check I’d say is pull the lower cover off the left side and see how things look around the one way bearing down there. Considering oil flows through both sides of the case you’ll likely need to split it but you might get an understanding off what you’re up against. Good luck.

It is powder coated. It depends on where you take it really but this was several hundred to have done.

Hmm, my first thought would have been weak starter as it turns fine without the plug in. If you take the little circular cover off on the stator side and put a socket on the nut to turn the motor over by hand does it still feel like a compression stroke or does it feel like it is binding up like a shot crankshaft bearing for example? It seems something is giving you resistance that the starter can overcome without compression but the added force needed to overcome compression plus ‘perhaps’ a crank bearing is too much. I have a video where I find that I have a bad crank from low oil/no oil and repair it if that helps but overall I had a very similar issue and it was my crank bearing. Good luck and let me know what you find.

@@VermontLife well i noticed when i had the clutch cover removed and put the spark plug back in and the rocker cover back on and tried to start it as the starter gets to that compression stroke i can actually take my hand and it seems to spin pas that point very easy but anyway as i spin the clutch a little to get past that compression point and make the motor turn past the compression stroke allowing the starter to still but in motion but when it makes the full revolution it stops again every time at the compression stroke , so either the new starter is just cheap and weak or that bearing is bad like ur saying i cant think of anything else unless the valves are not accurately adjusted properly but idk if that would cause that

@@chrisfordham7582 The valves wouldn't cause resistance that keeps you from cranking unless one is rusted up tight which I doubt. It's not a weak battery either I assume?

Yes, oil gets in there so you’ll fling some oil out. You ‘could’ start just for diagnostic to see if it will fire but don’t run it longer than a few moments.

Harness to the coil is typically orange although it would come from the cdi and not the harness if that helps.

Nothing leaking on it. I have either seen Blasters with nothing on the hole and this area full of mud/debris packed in that area of the case. (Not great) I’ve seen tape. (Had tape on one of mine until I did this.) Or I see folks reuse the existing rubber plug by pulling the oil lines then capping the holes in the plug with silicone/rtv etc. This fix is awesome as it requires no extra work, works if the through plug was thrown out with the oil kit, no silcone, no money etc.

Can’t wait for your next video to come out . Keep up the great work you do I will keep watching.

Interesting… brown to red completes a circuit. Then the black to black/white tracer closed the other circuit… interesting. Thanks for posting back. I’ve had switches come in wired in the reverse as some quads need the black/black white tracer circuit open for spark. Yamaha Blaster gen one closing the circuit kills spark for example.) Seems vendors post more model compatibility than is actually the case sometimes. :)

@@seanpettit6410 have a 89 warrior had spark a month ago, no spark at all, change stator, coil, spark plug, etc. still no spark bro

@rudedude_5047 any chance you have frayed wire that is grounding out the harness somewhere?

Thinking about it. This one is proving to be pretty solid so some upgrades could be nice to improve comfort for longer rides.

I’ve got a big bear 350 mine is a 94

Thanks. It’s a ton of fun.

The crank gaskets? Grab the part number off a place like rockymountainatv.com by searching under oem. Once you have the part number and put it into Google you’ll find a bunch of places to get them. I know Amazon and EBay also have them.

Thanks for the insight. I think I had my understanding backwards. (In my list of things to learn about is more about two stroke pipe design.)

Interesting, thank you.

Hmm, I’m not sure your stock carb is going to do that any justice. Best advice I can give is join a few Facebook groups for the Blaster and post your setup. There’s a few good groups but the one I’ve had the best knowledgeable advice out of is called ‘Yamaha YFS200 Blaster’. I’d be making guesses and have a feeling that if you want to achieve a noticeable increase in power you’re going to want to change up your carb and air intake as a minimum to see the gains. Join that group and get a feel for what guys are doing with the 240’s. There’s a lot of power potential there.

Ooo ok thinks

Got a quick question when when u get the big bore kit does the ring gap come checked already or u got to do it your self??

Always double check if you have the means. (It should be fine but it’s nice to have the confidence of having validated if you’re having an issue down the road and have to tear it apart to see if you should have.) Ask me how I know :)

Got an another question what’s the gap right gap for the rings ??

Ultimately with this setup they are keihin jets so the numbers don’t align to stock Mikuni jets. This is a 45 pilot and 165 main now. If you’re doing a stock build the stock carb factory jets would have been 32.5 pilot and 230 main from Mikuni but again these are two very different carbs between this one and a stock one. I wouldn’t have been able to use a stock carb even with larger jets on this build.

I have a link in one of the videos in the series. Ultimately it was an aftermarket but it fit great. If you check the descriptions in the videos in the series you should find it.

Absolutely! You should see some of the other salvage atvs I have in the playlists. I enjoy these abandoned ‘projects’.

@@VermontLife I followed ur blaster build did great job on that . I'm across the lake in ny

@mikewisher4083 small world. I keep thinking of heading out to NY a little west of you to NYOA for an XC race if I can get myself organized.

Loving it (the blue one) but it’s not a 240. It’s once bored over on an oem cylinder with a 3mm stroker crank and rechambered head (among other things.) I’d have to do the math but it’s not a 240.

@@VermontLife keep up the good work and I will keep watching.

Thanks for the note and glad it's helping.

That doesn’t seem right. I can say I didn’t need to pound anything. Do you think cleaning it up with a Brillo pad or some sand paper then greasing will do the trick or is it way off in size?

@VermontLife Not sure, it appears to be the same size. I'm getting ready to go out there and try to figure it out. Thanks for getting back to me, I didn't think it should be so tight. Getting a wrong/bad part from ebay, imagine that 😒

It's a night and day difference. For anyone thinking of building one up for themself I'd say to build the suspension first, then motor if you still want to. Improving the suspension handling changes the entire feel and rideability even with a stock motor. Considering you already have a big motor I think you'll find that going long travel with some decent shocks and a good steering setup will really open up the fun and comfort.

@@VermontLifeIv started the build. Hpm gusset kit is welded in and iv started on the custom rear end. These blaster rear ends are the easiest rear end to get crazy travel out of. Since they are a no link setup you just move the shock mount on the swing arm towards the machine and then down to keep you ride height. Going to get the 250r shock that is in it rebuilt and revalved for my custom rear end (stiffer, as there is more leverage on it now). Estimating around 13 inches of rear travel. Anymore and the frame will bottom to the ground when fully compressed at the ride height I have it. Front end I’m doing fireball +3 +1 long travel arms which take a 18.25 shock rather than the American stars that take a 16.25. As well as a wider axle in the rear. Definitely going to keep me busy over the next couple months.

@korbinmcdowell3069 sounds awesome! Are you welding the swing arm to fab up a new shock mount?

I had beeswax handy due to having a few hives here and left over burrcomb. Thought I’d try it.

Keep up the great builds you are doing I will keep watching

Lower front of the motor. It’s about the size of a can of soda and will have a black wire running to it from the battery.

@@VermontLife ok thanks

I actually reached out to the owner for some specs. It’s about 4.5 lbs with hardware included. The plate is .5" uhmw polyethylene.

I hadn’t heard that name before. Im having trouble finding them on Google to check them out.

I haven’t had any interference. It’s much cleaner compared to using an FRS radio which I also use for other communications that tends to have a lot of static. Especially clear when on the cell network and going phone to phone too.

@@VermontLife thanks for the reply !

I was actually thinking about that last night. One of the Blasters is a 2nd gear wheelie throttle wheelie machine on a 13t front and I’m thinking of going 14 for some stability and additional speed.

@@VermontLife I’m not so much a speed guy with the blasters as I am w/BANSHEES (you can see in my shorts/post) but just the rideablity in the woods, trails, and hills with out having to shift as much is WAY LESS WEAR on the SHIFT FORKS and having to run the rod out of the machine in high RPM. It is the BEST upgrade for the $10 I did on it

Loving the blasters. Looks like you bought every one in town! Lol Everyone needs more ZZTop in their life!

@Tharpification gotta love some good ZZTop :).

That’s awesome! Glad it helped.

I know right. It’s a Blaster farm over here right now.