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That is a Duracell power block 500, bought at Costco last year (2023). With this setup I can get about 5-6hrs of run time considering there’s not much audio getting amplified

I don’t think reliability is the issue with his amplifiers, the issue is they don’t put out rated power at all. I’d strongly suggest like a CVR amplifier or something similar, the cost is greater but I think you’ll find it the correct power you’re looking for mains and subs.

I’d really recommend a stinger power amp for what you’re doing. The amp specs aren’t correct, there is no way these amps put out 1150w per channel at 4 or 600 @ 8. Most likely that’s a peak rating and you should expect 300w @8, 575 @4. Also these amps don’t bridge and are not stable at 2ohm. That said they’re fine for light duty applications

Speakers are placed in a way that each one covers half perfectly and the far one fills in when needed. The idea is to get the speaker about is evenly distance from the front to the back so everyone gets the same audio experience.

Many tools for the same job

Having them high allows for clearer sound especially when people are standing. Each person should be able to see the horn in the cab for the most intelligibility

Boost the fundamental, cut the first harmonic, add some click. Always compress, a little or a lot but always compress. Quality mic and tuned kick. Systems are run stereo, subs are not on an aux

Passive, works for me and it’s 1 box 1 cable all around. Not sure what to recommend but lots of good speakers out there, depends on price range and what you need

Sorry you’ve had failures. These I’ve had going on 8 years or so, no issues at all. I’ve got 4 for monitors and they just keep working. Eventually I’ll replace with CVR D654 but it’s not in the budget now. Mostly these are 8ohm/ch but I’ve driven them down to 2 on several channels no issues. But realistically the power output isn’t that high. I’d not trust the larger 2ch amps on mains though and it’s too mission critical

Power is logarithmic, 180w is 3db less than 360, 6db less than 720 etc. As long as the signal chain is clean with no clipping anywhere and SPL is good then there’s no issues

I’ve used a ton of name brand US amps over the years (crown, crest, qsc) and a friend had bought several CVRs a year prior. I liked the performance and the communication with the company. Anyway I’ve had 3 ;split between systems) for a few years only issue being tripping GFCIs on rainy days outdoors. Other PFC amps also do this (qsc PLD4.5 etc) so it’s about finding those issues before they arise

I don’t have any experience with the Presonus though I’d be a little concerned with the HF drivers getting wet but my guess is they’ve probably worked all that out. I haven’t heard them but people I respect have good things to say so grain of salt right? Anyway, there’s lots of criteria to picking a main cab. I like the ZX3 for its shear volume and clarity

@@MrSamsstudios Thanks, I am just hoping to get the best coverage for my events. Quality is second. So if you have any recommendations for tops around this price point (preferably powered) that would be great thanks.

@@LG1685h if I need good horizontal coverage I’ll double up top boxes and splay them as needed. Most single speakers won’t do much more than 90deg wide and the coverage pattern is based off the horn only which only directs sound at 2k and above. Check the architectural paper in the manual on each and look for the polar patterns which is the directivity at different frequencies, that will tell you a lot more than any sale pitch you’ll see online

EV ZX3-90 and JBL MRX518. Driverack PA2 processed and powered by a CVR D1004 stereo biAmp

Yap

Nope, 5 speakers, 5 mixes

@@MrSamsstudios 🤣 sure thing.

Neutrik I think

I do recommend BUT if you’re running a lot of outdoor in the weather gigs make sure you’re not using GFCi outlets, use non-GFCI or an L6-30 (found on yellow contractor power boxes) and theyll be happy with 220v

Audiopile.net but if you buy from Amazon or somewhere make sure you buy genuine neutrik parts. I had a knockoff where a pin didn’t work and caused problems.

Thanks 😁

Meh, on a loud stage not great. Basically these are getting hit hard with signal trying to keep up

Sure. I’ll try and do something soon

Turns out the S16 only operates as master so there’s no choice but to make the LS9 slave. The idea is if the s16 was slave it would also be slave to the x32 as well and that can’t happen

@@MrSamsstudiosso run the ls9 as matter or the x32

X32 is the master clock overall but the LS9 would be setup as the FOH, x32 as monitor. Yeah, it’s dumb, it’s an exercise just to see if it can be done

@@MrSamsstudiosthank you for that. Out of everything I’ve been learning I got confused on what the master clock should be between all the videos I browsed

Because high freq amplifiers are smaller and can’t handle the 100hz and up load required in a 2 way system

@@MrSamsstudios There’s no such thing as “high frequency amplifiers “. All you have to do is buy amplifiers that have the recommended power rating for your high, mid and low speakers. As long as you have the right separate amplifiers and speakers connected, the driverack pa2 will do the crossover settings for you. That’s why it’s called speaker management processor.

Overrated but power “feels like” 300w @8. I’ve had these for maybe 8 months. Probably 30-40 shows on them for monitors. Driven hard into 8 ohm loads

It’s on the small side, decent for monitors. None of the soundtown amps are large enough for subs/mains. They say they have a lot of output but I seriously doubt it

Id sag NOT its a fake powersoft Buy a CVR 8002 that amp has a real set of balls i had many of them and for about the same price it will drive anything you hook up to it unlike that POS in the video

@@victorciccarone6291see my other videos for the CVR D1004

For horns it’s perfect, not much power, reliable little amp

Also using the soundtown on monitors and it ok, the sinbosen is slightly less power

Drivers? What size drivers? Woofers tweets??? Drivers means a lot of things LED drivers ? Lol

@@FOHFILMS correct, I use patch panels wired with subs on pins1 and tops on pins2. Four conductor cable to each sub and then there’s a special jumper cable using pins 2 on the sub side and pins 1 on the tops side. This only works in bi-amp situations, not tri-amp. Some of my speakers are biamp only (Triamp w subs) so the jumpers will not work but for passive tops it’s a nice shortcut

I’ll try and do a video on the DBX soon, the driverack is only for mains and all my speakers are passive so it’s a good fit. Amps are soundtown (see review I did)

90-240v, all amps will run on 110 but most can exceed 15a draw easy drive to max power. I chose the d1004 because it’ll only draw 19a 110v at 1/3 power (heavy clip) all channels 4 ohm. Still has enough power tho at 1000w/ch @8 ohms

@@MrSamsstudios Where did you find that spec? I've been trying to find info on current draw for the CVR amps as I'm also considering getting a D1004

@@FOHFILMS I just uploaded a short with this info

I can’t see the video at the moment but these are some cheap sinbosen k4-450s I bought off Alibaba a few years ago. Meh, not enough power output so they’ve been replaced (see my soundtown amp review)

@MrSamsstudios thanks. I really enjoy your videos and how you go through everything that you use. Short & sweet

Oh hey; good to know. I usually make power stringers with SJOW 12/3 and some nicer quad boxes. I kinda like these and went to buy more and… back ordered. I’m also looking on the Alibaba type sites since I guarantee seismic buying this stuff from a few suppliers en mass

All these speakers on this event I built years ago, basic 12/1” design and it’s a great utility speaker for mains or monitors, fills, whatever. The only alto speakers I own are tx308 and for small fill speakers only, and some alto black 12/1” monitors

@MrSamsstudios I was thinking of those black 12"/1" Alto speakers. The ones that became passive speakers. Your speaker inventory is bit big so I hope you see my confusion.

Ah, yeah, it’s confusing! I’ll do a video in a few days of the Altos. This gig I didn’t use them, they’re a bit heavy and also a 4 ohm cab. I’ll use them in situations where I need loud from only a box or 2 per amp channel

@@MrSamsstudios 👍🏻 Notifications are on so when you upload the video on the Alto speakers... And maybe a little bit more information on your self build speakers from this event? Wouldn't mind it!

What model CVR power amps you have n would you recommend them?

Least I could do!

Good idea. The DBX PA2 has a nice iPad interface which makes life easier. It can be confusing but as a basic crossover and brick wall limiter it’s great. I don’t use the compression or sub harmonic synth

Yeah, I flip it on accident. Oh well

I use mixing station for as many mixers as I can. iOS or android and I typically has 2 tablets running at all times for redundancy

Do a little research on these before you commit

Good info. First gig will be tomorrow

There’s a few testers: Fluke 101 for electrical, Behringer Ebtek knockoff , EWI bug catcher, and Behringer CT200. There’s also a cheap one for capacitors and a homemade box for testing polarity of passive speakers

@MrSamsstudios It's the cable tester with Speakon, cinch/rca and bnc

@@Richard1977 EWi bugcatcher. Order from Audiopile.net

@@MrSamsstudios 👍🏻