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Hi, it’s styrene. Sheets or strips of plastic. It can be scored or cut for different projects.

Hi, it's not difficult at all. Once you have the existing head off there's the mount post that the new one glues to. If memory serves it fit fairly snug. Just make sure you have it sitting flush in the socket. They got the print to me pretty quick. A few days if I recall.

Thank you for the kind words. Yes RUclips is a fickle mistress. All I can do is keep chugging away.

Hi, with this one before starting I did heat the joints with a hairdryer just to get a better range of motion, some light sanding and alcohol rub to get any body oils from handling off before painting. During the priming process I brushed painted the joints. The paint only adheres for so far since the plastic is molded in green. The more you move the legs they’ll scratch off. Even if you varnish seal after painting. If you’re thinking about painting one yourself, you can try dyeing the figure black first instead of priming in black paint. I did it with an Anti-Eternia He-Man and Battlecat in another video. The only thing is: this Battlecat is made from two different kinds of plastic and the main body would not take to dyeing. The legs and joints however did. They’re a softer plastic. So you’d still have to paint the body, neck and head. Hope this helps.

Thank you for watching. I have a Panthor one in the pipeline that I’ll be sharing soon.

@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 looking forward to seeing that. 👍

Hi, if you’re referring to the miscellaneous parts they mostly came from a few different Gundam model kits. Mechanical Chain Bases, Kotobukiya Frame Arms and Gundam repair bay kits. I’m not sure if they’re still making them because I bought KO versions from eBay a few years ago. The repair bays last I saw were still available at USA Gundam Store. Hope this helps.

@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 thank u so much for the tips.

@@one_lighttoy You’re very welcome.

Thank you

Hi, thank you. 😆 So the girl in the thumbnail is an actress by the name Sidney Sweeney. There’s been some data to support that people click on videos with her in the thumbnail. So I’ve been conducting an experiment for my own entertainment to see if it’s accurate.

​@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 so....clickbait.

Hi, no I didn’t. In the description are links to where I got it. Thanks.

Hi, I normally seal with a matte varnish. AK Interactive has one that’s pretty good. It can be brushed or airbrushed on.

@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 thanks👌

Yeah it cuts down on paint and paint rub. You’ll still need to do some touch up to blend it all together. Because the harder plastic is resilient to the dye. Came out very bronzed in the chest area.

@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 thank you

Oi, sim, usei tinta acrílica. Primeiro, eu preparei em preto e depois passei por cima dele em alguns tons diferentes de roxo. No vídeo mostro quais marcas e cores usei. Em algum lugar na seção de comentários eu listo os que usei e em que ordem. Espero ter ajudado! Desculpe se isso não se traduz completamente.Estou usando um software tradutor. Mas eu queria te responder.

I appreciate the feedback. I’m toying with the idea of doing some voiceover with future videos. Just to provide some insight into my process and to flesh out the story for particular projects in my head. Just need to rip the proverbial bandaid off.

@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 It will be all good!

Hi, what I ended up doing after the paint work was to spray it with some matte varnish. Then I brushed what I could in the joints. I don’t move the figure around often so I can’t say I’ve had any paint rub. That’s the downside to customizing a figure that was molded in a different color. The product I used was AK Interactive Matte Varnish. Along with Mr Top Coat spray. Hope this helps.

Hi, and thank you. That’s what it is Green Stuff Putty. It comes in strips of blue and yellow. You just trim off the amount you need and mix the pieces together until it turns green. I’d suggest practicing with it before you start just to get a feel for it.

@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 thanks man I’ve found it and ordered some keep up the good work

@@grahamhowarth63 Good luck with your project!

Thanks!

Potentially I might. So far she’s only been seen at the end of the last series. I’d like to wait and see what happens in the next season to get a better understanding of her environment to draw from.

Thank you! Great suggestion.

Yes would be good to see full image end result without coloured lighting.

Paints I used were as follows: Body: Vallejo Black Surface Primer-FIRST. Allow to dry for at least 24-48 hours. Try moving the joints and brush in the primer until you cover the green. Again, let dry thoroughly. Body Purple: Airbrush Colors Magenta. Same thing, allow it to dry well. Then I dry brushed over it with *Vallejo Game Air Warlord Purple* to bring out the details. (As seen in the video.) Saddle: Vallejo Surface Primer Grey. Allow to dry thoroughly. If you get any tackiness during the drying phase, try rubbing baby powder over the tacky areas. It’ll absorb the moisture. That vinyl/rubber can have a tendency to reject paint. Then I painted the saddle with Army Painter Warpaints Elemental Bolt to get that blue green color. The seated area was a shade of dark green. I suggest that if you have an airbrush to go that route, but you could get by with brush painting. But it’s always a good idea to practice with the paints on some plastic spoons just to see how they react. You might see the colors slightly differently than me. That’s apparently a thing with people’s eyes. I hope this helps.

I'd have to think about. I'd hate to make another and have potential clients not happy with when it's not as playable before the painting. I seal the finishes but they're not immune to joint friction scraping.

@@theplastickrackstudio.5247 but if the price is right I don’t mine that and maybe you can add a small paint jar to retouch later