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This dude shouldnt be allowed to put any How-To videos after doing this horrible, incredibly dangerous job TWICE. Repair was as bad as original install, guaranteed to fail

Where is the stabilizer bar on top-? Should have been a metal bar on top from end to end

This is an absolute death trap! You are going get someone killed! I’m sorry to hurt your feelings

12 INCHS OF CONCRETE WOULD BE MORE LIKE IT

The instructions on mine said no bolts within 8” of a joint. The garage wall is usually separate from the floor. If mine slip I will grout them in.

Anchors in the expansion joint? Seriously? No wonder Boeings keep falling out of the sky

Why not embed j-bolts into the concrete as you pour?

Wow as a certified lift installer it hard to watch this foolishness. And all the people that are commenting that are clueless

I would never get a lift without a top crossbar.

Installing a spanner bar at the top of the posts would've solved the whole issue. That will prevent the posts from trying to turn inward as the Wright creates a lever effect. Once you cut the concrete you actually made the floor weaker by separating the floor into 2 systems. The concrete you poured was horribly weak with excessive water content. Sometimes sitting in a chair with a beer and some thinking time makes all the difference.

All lifts need a good foundation, but lifts designed with no top spreader bar REALLY need a stout foundation and anchors.

This is exactly whats happening with mine ive been trying to fix it for a week. Thx for the video

Looks to me like the anchor bolts just failed or werent installed correctly. Theres no telling how many lifts have been installed on 4" slabs(3.5) that have held up

Would epoxy anchors be better than wedge anchors?

I manage large construction projects, the last one of these we did was for a 2.5t lift, the pads were over 1m deep by 1.5 wide!! Those small pads will not resist the rotational forces😢

Nice lift tighten those bolts. You could tie the tops together with some square tubing for added safety also. I'm sitting here waiting for my amgo 9k baseplate to be delivered and your video popped up Google is reading my brain. Stay safe.

Totally wrong

You poured it really wet, not sure if that makes it weaker. All finishers, constantly hand float it until it is done. I hope you let it cure a good while before you re-installed

Well, I’m no professional installer but I’ll guarantee you are not supposed to put it that close to the wall? I’ve also seen the regular wedge anchors fail, constantly get loose etc. I like the long threaded rod imbedded in special epoxy. I’m getting one and getting it professionally installed even though ai could technically do it, my lift will weigh just under a ton, yes, over 1,900 pounds, no back for that. If I was going to all that trouble, I’d go down a foot. I just had mine poured. They dug another 6” or so, 2’x3’, so that area should be 8-12” thick, also used 3500 psi, fiber reinforced too. When your life is on the line, you can’t put it too deep. Hope it works out for you.

You need to install a 24/7 live camera in your garage so in case something does happen we can call 911.

I bet your neighbors loved you during this concrete demo mine would hace the police 😮

Did it fall on you?

The Boeing sweatshirt really makes this video

Those anchors were el cheapo You want Hilti drop in anchors bro

That was your first mistake TEADRINKER !!

So many problems. Original concrete not poured correctly. Anchors barely in instead of properly installed. New concrete pour not large enough(need minimum 2' of 4" thick 4000 psi reinforced concrete in all directions outside of pad), hand mixing the concrete (that drum thing is not a professional mixer), and on and on. I watch these videos and wonder how much life insurance these guys have. This was his second to last video so I'm going to assume someone collected on it.

I dislike trusting concrete even with chemical anchors (if you don't know what those are, study them because they're what the pros use, not wedge anchors) so I welded a large H out of heavy H-beam (surplus steel is easy to find) and welded the base of my used lift to that. It can't tip in any direction and can even be used outdoors if you bury the H flush with the ground. For indoor use if you're gonna cut your slab removing enough for at least a stout beam connecting the bases of your chosen lift is easy and if properly welded (or bolted to plates, but welding is a lot less work) the lift cannot tip inwards. I used backing strips and 7018 filler but cellulose rod is ample too. What matters is a quality weld.

Your outer bolts are very close to the outer side of your concrete floor. You should not install the post so close to the edge of the concrete, it is not about the siyze of the bolt but a wrong placement…

after all that work only 7 inches deep?

13:15 Half inch, not 3/8 Rebar goes into the BOTTOM third of the slab!!! So much is WRONG here.

10:00 Rebar goes into the BOTTOM third of the slab!!!

Dude where you go? I hope your ok. 4 inches would of worked for light duty. The problem was o close to the wall plus the anchors are not deep enough if they are even grabbing. You can see the studs sticking up way too high. Plus you never hand mix cement for a lift.

Technically rebar is not intended to be exactly in the middle of concrete. It is intended to reduce stress on the concrete in the direction in which it is forced, but not be in contact with the soil. So a concrete pad wants to “fall” inward because of weight and gravity. You want the rebar to be under tension, not compression. So on a floor the rebar should be located at the bottom of the pad, but completely encased in the concrete. On a wall structure, you want the rebar to be placed opposite to where the force is applied. Basement wall, rebar more towards the inside surface. The wall is being forced towards the inside of the basement, and rebar towards the inside, is trying to be elongated in tension. If it was on the outside surface, the rebar would be under compression, and Not what it is designed for. The details in things like this helps understand its purpose and prevent placement mistakes in the future.

I still love my old school inground ,old school Rotary ,it's now in my home shop.. stay away from china built lifts ..go American, made.

My unprofessional opinion is that you did a fairly good job. The way your garage is i know you won't lift heavy vehicles or at least high enough to wobble, you ceiling it's too low. Good job

I had the same problem in my shop with the 3 lifts installed by "professionals" when i bought them. All anchors where loose. My repair was to tighten up the anchors to expose much of the bolt, then remove the nut and cut the anchor, then hammer the remaining bolt down until it went into the soil (how fast it went into the soild showed me my floor was only 4 inches thick) Cleaned the holes with air and injected concrete epoxy untill started oozing out, installed new anchors and tight them cpl days later. That worked for 10 more years lifting limos everyday. When i sold the building and took the lifts off, i tried sledge hammer the anchors in and the would now move, i had to cut them off. Thats how hard the epoxy was. Just my experience. Not a concrete expert.

Here is what I did. Did exactly 1M by 1M squares and 40CM deep. Concrete mix was 1 Cement, 2 Sand, 3 Aggregate. The guy who came to drill, had a tough time even though he is muscular. The drill bit broke. Return second day, the second one broke and he was like wtf is this piece of shit. I calmed him down and paid him for another drill bit plus soke extra for his trouble. Do not play with the mix! And always keep the anchors at least 4 inches from edge of final slab.

4 inches!? Holy crap no way

Did you remove the former existing rebar? Often, those are on tension/torsion systems to make the concrete pad stronger. If you removed them, you just screwed yourself.

Why don't they have a cross member connecting the 2 post?

What a homer

Your biggest problem is you cant put any anchors that close to the edge of the concrete, you need minimum 6 inch from the wall

You Titled your video "My Lift tried to Kill me!" You need to change it to "This video will kill someone" or "My Video will Kill You!" Or maybe "If You Follow This Video You Will DIE" PLEASE take this video down before some one gets hurt! If you don't take it down and someone gets hurt I hope they sue you for everything you own and then some!

Painful to watch, mistakes after mistakes but definitely a good teacher this video surely is!

If the lift is deflecting, you have an alignment problem. Despite the stress from the deflection, you didn't show failing concrete, and then you tore the concrete out. You have a logic failure.

Your lift didnt almost kill you. You almost killed your self. Definitely dont know what your doing.

Not having an epoxy floor is better when putting down a hoist. Epoxy afterwards!

24" minimum depth with 5\8" x12" J bolts would be the bare minimum i would trust.

Love how he is blaming the rebar and concrete. No guy, it was putting the studs in only 3".... we all saw you pull it out.

I'd add a support brace across the tip while you are at it.