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I didn't waste too much time and money. I took it to the tire shop and paid him $15 and had it done in less than 5 minutes.

Thanks for the video! This technique worked. I used a wood block on the jack and LOTS OF PATIENCE. PB blaster was not enough. Not for the several days prior to viewing this vid. Not with muscle and an extension on the bar, PB and propane heat. I refused to drill or torch it off. [3 days later] Switched to 3 in 1 oil on jack day for better lubrication. I had just seen the video using a candle to work wax into the threads but I dod not want the extra soot and goop in the threads. Switched to MAP gas heating. Never heated the axle or nut over 115°F. All the heat went straight to the axle stub and stayed there. Cold chisle-tapped marks into the hub and wiped some paint into the mark to confirm (and deny) ANY rotation of the axle nut. Raised the jack until the bar began to bend then paused. Carefully tapped the socket and swivel a bunch. Then released pressure and checked for rotaion. None. More heat and oil and PB. Lots of tapping. Lots of patience. Time for a Safety Break. Leaving the bar under tension with the jack imperceptibly rotated the nut. The tick marks gave proof! Repeated the process several times on the tough side. The heat made the PB and oil run away, seemingly removing grit and rust in the process. Re-oil the warm threads and PB the collar, tappy-tap-tap and add the pressure from the jack until the bar bends. Tap the socket and swivel. Because. After about 10 cycles over a few hours of doing other stuff the NUT TURNED less than one degree of rotaion. PHEW. So I did the heat and oil, bent the bar and went to lunch. Did some praying and singing. Upon return the bar had unbent! About 6° of rotation (kevinbacon). Then I got the jack to break the nut loose just like in this video. So easy!

This is just amazing!!! Thank you

Where buy the part from

A tip is to have someone hit the breaker bar and socket in with a sledge hammer while your applying downward force on the breaker bar that is attached to a cheater bar.

That's exactly what happened to mine. I have it up in the air right now tearing into the engine. It started as a replacement engine for 2001 Altima in 2014. it came from a donor vehicle with 75K on it supposedly. From the very beginning there was a chirp at startup. I thought it was engine mount, then i thought it was serpintine belt, then I thought it was starter, then I suspected water pump. But now I know it was the oil pump failing way back when. Oil light was stay on for like 1.5 seconds after startup every time. I thought it had to be just a quirk. but eventually oil light would stay on longer and then would stay on at idle. Then then loud clacking sound started and I knew I was in for it. took off oil pan and a bunch of plastic pieces. Lucky that it wasnt the timing chain failing first since this is an interference engine. I'm going to try to tackle replacing guides, timing cover, and leaving the chains if they are not too beat up. Engine has suffered some oil starvation so it will only last 10K-30K after repairs so trying to keep it budget friendly. Im a total hack mechanic but figure worth attempting it. gotten my money's worth and then some. I've had car since new. Been great to me. My wife drove the car without oil on previous engine and then 6 months later the timing chain blew. these cars' timing chain and components are sensitive to low oil conditions, like most engines.

This has been the best method I’ve ever learned. 💪🏼

I did use this method on one side before I saw your video, but the other side would not work, broke three breaker bars

Tried this but it didn't work for me 😞

I found a left-over 1.5 inch diameter PVC pipe and used it as cheater bar. It is thick. Works well. Now I am using it every time I take off my tires. Painless now.

No way this will work on my 850, it has too much rust.

Good idea. Tried and broke my braker bar

Wow, what a great idea. I'll never struggle with these again. A good idea to use 3/4 drive for these nuts too. Thanks for the great tip.

Tried it , it broke the breaker bar.

Don’t use heat unless you want to dry out wheel bearings.

What.. 1/2 is bigger and sturdier than 3/8? 🤔 Why use 3/8? Am I missing something?

genius

I'm going to try this today on my 1998 Civic (in the year 2021!) I don't think it's ever been removed and I simply can not get it to budge (I removed the axle nut's center stake first and drenched it with PB Blaster over days and hours.) I'll take it to a shop to loosen it if this trick doesn't work. Thanks! VERY clever technique!!

OMG!!!, at last, I did it! thank you sir

I have done this very thing

Really helped me out: cheers!

Common sense for the win

That's working smarter, not harder! Great idea!! Mike

How many miles did you have on your Nissan when this happened?

The right side cv axle will snap in half eventually too if it hasn't already. Rust builds up under the center harmonic balancer. This affects all CRVs and Elements plus other Hondas driven in the rust belt.

Haha genius

Nothing can't beat a hidrolyc press.

Wished I watched this sooner, went to buy a Milwaukee impact wrench 1400 ft lbs of torgue for $349.

Lol. Genius. Freakin hell.

The nut was already loose before filming, wasn't it. (I didn't see/hear the "pop" there had to have been when it actually broke loose!)

I did it last week with my hands and it almost broke my back. Now i am seeing this and i am like - Could it have been that simple !!!!LOL. Thanks

Nominating you for the nobel science prize

Same thing in my 1998 Altima

That's really good idea

Very smart.👍

When someone loves you, the way they talk about you is different. You feel safe and comfortable.

Thats a real good idea! You would have to be mindful to have it lined up just right or you could cross thread it.

Goddamn genius gump! I was ready to go buy a torch earlier the previous day. Now, It’s 2am just watch some sweet porn and rubbed one off. I say hey, let me look to see if there are any other methods You are a life saver bro. Thanks!!!!

Your video just help me out a lot thank you so much

Hello! Do you know where to buy Nissan Micra timing chain tensioner on line?

I have a "whine" with my Nissan Frontier with the 4 cylinder. Has 211K miles on the odometer. Was your engine the KA24DE with the hydraulic tensioners? My idea is to go in and replace the 2 tensioners and the 2 rails without doing the chain, if it's not stretched. It almost sounds like the rails wear down to metal. creating slack in the chain. then the tensioner piston eventually "pops out" of the tensioner (I have never heard of a mechanism in the tensioner to prevent piston from coming out under hydraulic pressure). The timing chain kits available online are of questionable quality and the replacement chains themselves do not weigh as much as a stock chain. The aftermarket tensioners are the weak link and have a higher failure rate than the Nissan made tensioners. A nissan mechanic warned me of this and recommended the timing components be sourced thru Nissan dealerships. A timing chain kit for $40-$50 from companies like "Bapmic" raises all kinds of red flags and it smells like trouble.

1999 Nissan Altima GXE, 5-Speed. Similar thing happened to me recently at a little over 266,000 miles. Heard a clacking/ticking sound for a while first. Was told it could be the harmonic balancer, which made sense because it did have a wobble in it. So, right before I could change it out, two things happened: 1, I started losing power under load, like downshifting to 4th, uphill with accelerator to the floor, but still no climb, kind of loss in power. Hard idling and car dying sometimes at idle, as well. Ran the codes, MAF sensor, crank shaft position sensor, knock sensor, catalyst system below efficiency, car too lean bank one. Replaced all the sensors and took a core out of the cat, about an inch wide, but still, same problem. 2, started spewing oil. Lost 2 quarts within 10 miles. Oil everywhere, all over the front of the engine, and all over the drive belt and AC belt like they were slinging it. So I go to replace the crank seal and harmonic balancer, and seal the timing chain cover. The only two things I could think of that would cause the issue. And in the process of doing all of that, I found a timing chain guide in my oil pan along with a bunch of very fine metal pieces, like glittery sand, which I cleaned out. No fat shavings. Then when I went to remove the top engine mount, that's when I saw it, a gaping hole blown out the side of the timing chain cover. Didn't have time to order a new one, and was close to losing my job if I missed anymore days of work, so I got some JB Weld MetalStik, cleaned, scratched around the hole, cleaned it again, then plugged the hole with the entire stick, buttoned everything back up, and I haven't lost any oil since. That was 2 days ago. JB Weld holdsworth up to the hype that people give it, that's for sure. Well still have a loss in power, but no clacking/ticking sound, no slapping sound, no marble sound, and it's dead on the timing. Hasn't slipped at all. So I don't think I have to worry about losing the guide, just yet, at least, but I would like to know why I have no power under load. Compression is fine. 150psi, on all 4 cylinders. Each one dead on. No variation.

This is so smart! I wish I had seen this sooner

Yesterday, I went to pick’n’pull to pull a pair of hubs for my vehicle. Doing something like this was my very first idea when the nuts wouldn’t budge with me standing on a 25” breaker bar. Unfortunately picknpull doesn’t allow jacks in their yards. I suppose I could’ve snuck in a scissor jack, but damn! I was able to get a pair from another vehicle where the 35mm nut was easier to undo. Unfortunately, my entire back is seriously sore tonight from my efforts. Gonna postpone the installation on my car by a couple days to recover, and definitely use either a jack or a cheater pipe when it’s time to do the job!

same thing happened to my 99 frontier a couple of weeks ago. almost identical crap in oil pan.

Well done a good floor jack makes us all have super hero strength.

then, suddenly at 0:55..... SNAP!!!!!! That's what I heard on my Honda Crv. Craftsman breaker bar and socket in TWO pieces....LOL!!

Guys I got a problem with my Toyota Yaris front driver side shaft axle nut won't open , we'll try heat gun next less see how it goes

My 99 altima just did the same thing. I also have gold metallic shavings in oil pan.

I used this a while back to undo a caliper holder bolt. I used the wind up type of jack that time as no room for a trolley jack. I faced the same issue yesterday with the driveshaft bolt and thought I'd google to see if anyone else had used a jack which is how I found this video. I successfully followed the same procedure, but I'd advise anyone doing this to take the following precautions. 1) Ensure you know exactly where your strength fails and the jack takes over - i.e. as you elevate the jack, try to lift the wrench higher manually - when you can no longer lift the jack, you know the torque acting on the nut is now beyond your strength. 2) Once you've reached the human limit, take it VERY carefully - pump up the jack 1cm at a time (MAX) and watch the bar which will bend - a slight bend is ok, but if the nut doesn't move within the next 3cm, I'd advise releasing the pressure, adding some heat and trying again. Another method I've heard of is tapping the bolt head with a hammer while under pressure. In my case, on one side I could break the bolt out with my own strength and a 1m bar. On the other, it took me several goes with the jack, heat and a hammer, before finally the bolt came loose.