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Original X6-1500 controller was not up to task. Kernel speed was just 14kHz, it didn´t work with Mach3 2017 screenset (huge problems with probing/autozero) and multiple occasions with total freeze of control. So I decided to upgrade control totally and UCCNC SW + logic board was selected mainly due the 2017 screenset capability. So basically I was happy with Mach3 but switched to UCCNC due the HW relation. I know that it is possible to run UCCNC control with Mach3 but never tested that, maybe in the future as I have CNC lathe waiting without control...Mach3 Turn will then come handy.

@@jat1mat1c ah...I now understand why I have issues with probing and tool change macros in 2017 screenset too...might wanna upgrade that in due time too then...

Machine has gone thru quite big upgrades...X-axis is now with Hiwin 20mm rails, Z-axis with 15mm rails, 3 times more travel...hybrid servos etc. But yes I have tested drilling, 5mm was max diam, anything bigger than that caused spindle to stall. If I need >5mm hole I typically make it using smaller mill and helical approach.

@@jat1mat1c hi, I own one of these machines, and since you mention modifications involving rails and am myself considering hacking the original build, I was wondering if you would mind sharing any details on your approach for such modifications(pictures would be great for example), regards. Phil.

@@philippeallemant8524 Hi, yes I have totally redesigned and build X and Z axes using original machine for parts needed. I have quite many videos waiting to be published here in Utube but my video editing skills are not that good. Maybe I could take some photos and CAD pictures and pm them to you. Or just make quick video showing the end result of current setup...

@@jat1mat1c that would be interesting indeed, and most appreciated, I'm currently drawing parts myself and planning on cutting them , probably going to redesign sides to increase z clearance under bed though

Gun in front is Finnish Tikka M65 in 6.5-284, McMillan stock. Gun in back is Tikka M658 in 7mm-300WSM, homemade alu-stock.

Machine is now almost totally rebuild, X gantry is now made with 20mm Hiwin linears and probably the next step is Y and Z. I try to make video series how I made the X axis. I know that you have made upgrades to your machine, please make short introduction video abt those changes (not just videos how fast you can mill steel....;) )

+Fredrik Mattsson Well make a wild guess...they got bit arrogant when I asked abt fix or replacement for bad components, they requested me to send components back to China before they can send new parts. And of course by my expense. I got bit pissed off and decided to just fix that issues by myself with simple shimming plates. I was pretty sure that new parts would not be better. Recently also discovered that X-axis was not perpendicular against Y-axis but I was able to fix that by simply loosening all bolts and giving few good punches to gantry assembly with soft hammer. So they have very bad quality control, as usual with Chinese companies. Really shame because typically it costs exactly same to make good product. So if there is reasonable substitute, one might look alternative machine or just be prepared to make shimming + modifications in order to make this machine run true. I have also found that the weakest link in this machine is X-axis linear guides which will flex quite easily and a lot (drilling or similar). I have been thinking to make upgrade parts, side plates + Z-axis top/bottom plates with additional X-axis linear guides (maybe 2 more) for increased rigidity. But before that I need to make sure it runs 100% square so that new parts will not need shimming. Round linear guides 500mm are not that expensive and design should fairly easy.

+jat1mat1c Where did you put the shimming plates? I have loosen the screws to the parts of the Z axis, and yanked into position, still there is a sligt offset in the Y+ direction.

+Fredrik Mattsson I bought very cheap feeler gauge and cut pieces fromthat as needed. My X-axis was also higher on one side by ~0.25mm so I used different shimms on each side. Shimms are placed between top of Y-carrier and bottom of X-axis sideplates....roughly where this video starts and my wicked fingers are pointing curvature of Y-carrier end. Using different thickness pieces I was able to make Z-axis quite square. However spindle carrier part is made out of extrusion, which also adds some variation into whole mess. Depending on how you tighten up spindle carrier, spindle can be slightly tilted also. But thats only minor detail. Maybe I make short video to show what I have done...stay tuned :)

+Patrik J Actually "wizard" shows that I could run ~1mm DOC but decided to try bit less as I have only 1 tool available at the moment. SFM is also bit conservative. I think 2-flute is good compromise, like 6mm tool as well. It is all abt MRR, your settings will have most likely higher MRR. Thanks for the finishing tip, I will try reducing speed in next project. Have you tested mobile-FSWizard, I find it very useful. In next project I will use shorter tools and looking forward to get doubled DOC. This one required 26mm deep cutting, next one has only 8mm max DOC.

+jat1mat1c Hey is it possible to send me a link to the kind of mill you are using? I'm also starting to cut aluminium but today I had to run it at 4500 RPM with only 200mm/min feedrate. I was cutting it with some mills I had laying around. They had a yellow-ish color and 3 flutes, around 5mm in diameter

+Kenny Liebert I´m using mainly 2-flute carbide mills from Sorotec www.sorotec.de/shop/Cutting-Tools/END-MILLS/END-Mill-ALU/ . Any good carbide mill is good starting point, 1-flute or 2-flute. I did test 4-flute / 5mm but it melt chips quite fast. So 2-flute max. Good learning place is: blog.cnccookbook.com/2012/03/27/10-tips-for-cnc-router-aluminum-cutting-success/ CNCcookbook is good place to learn all needed details, SFM and chipload. My normal settings for 6mm 2-flute carbide are 270-SFM and 0.05mm chipload. Good program to learn and test feeds and speeds is FSwizard for mobile phones. zero-divide.net/index.php?page=fswiz_mobile

Sideplates are 3mm hard plastics, not sure which type as bought material from local supplier "leftover shelf", flexible part is 2mm nitrile-rubber (oil and solvent resistant).