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@@thelevelbeyondhuman it’s still running strong. No more starting issues

I didn’t replace the thermostat housing

@@jeremylomax6867 I replaced the block, it cost me $420 at the junk yard. You have tear your whole engine apart. The block is the bottom part of the engine. Some Kia’s have a recall for it. Go on their website and put in your Vin number to check.

@@servincisneros88 I put another used head on it with cams. My cams were worn and scratch. Still has the same tick.

@Rayspeed1 double check the valve assembly. Check if something is lose

@@servincisneros88 sure will thanks! Doesn’t it sound to you like piston slap?

@Rayspeed1 in the video the sound seems to be coming from the top end

@@zachwebb6879 no but I replace the head on it with different use plugs and still the same.

@@conradjohnson9245 it’s so hard not to time it probably. It has 3 marks that you have to line it up. I even put a new timing kit. Still ticking the same.

It’s probably the theft deterrent system, if you have an early 2000s gm car then you will probably need to bypass the security system as it usually gets worse over time

Might need some help with the fans but you can try bypassing the security system with a newrockies pro modules and that might keep it from shutting off

Did you find a solution to get it out, any other videos?

I’ve had this issue going on for a year now and no mechanic will help me because they said the issue has to happen in front of them in order to know what the issue is. I knew all my answers would be solved by going on YT! So should I just show my mechanic this video?

Shahada, you need to tell a mechanic you are having passlock security issues. On a variety of early 2000s GM vehicles, and some other brands here or there, (mainly that era of GM) they were made with a faulty theft deterrent system that often fails in 3 main different ways, or even a combination of the 3 sometimes, from the chip in the carkey going bad, to the cylinder not working, to the modules themself messing up (BodyControlModule/TheftDeterrentModule), and what happens is your security system thinks it’s being hijacked when you try and drive it normally, so it shuts off and won’t crank or start. This kinda thing is a huge headache to fix, and can often cost thousands of dollars, taking it to different mechanics, getting new computer modules, keys, and ignition cylinders, If you are having the security-light-car-not-starting issue, the first thing I would recommend you do is get a “newrockies pro module.” This is basically an aftermarket module that bypasses the faulty security system entirely. Fairly easy to install, can be done with most home tools, if you aren’t so mechanically inclined a friend could help. They have a pretty nice refund deal to where if it doesn’t fix your car, you can send it back for a full refund. Within 30 days of it being delivered to you of course. It’s supposed to be a permanent fix, but yeah i would try that first, it’s a lot cheaper than going to a mechanic or dealer and trying to get it fixed that way. I have 04 Chevy impala that did the same things.

@@shawnbethany9473 the shifter is stuck in park?

With the key on, do you see your check engine light? It sounds like a bad PCM.

@@Rayspeed1 Thank you for you reply, Yes the check engine light is on, it stay on when I try to start that car and all other lights turn off.

@@MiguelRodriguez-pz8wi then most likely your pcm is good like you said but you have to find a way to communicate to it. What type of scan tool do you have?

@@Rayspeed1 I have a Launch Creader V2+ and a Actron pocket scan ,they both say no link on communication after doing the initial scan. I took off the connector pin on the PCM and the wire from the port to the PCM pin ohms good

Yes, it had a cross-fire injection set up.

@@Rayspeed1 why do you like carb better? Idk much about cars and genuinely curious

@@YoudontNeedtoknow-es2xs it’s easier for me to tune it

@@YoudontNeedtoknow-es2xs Cross-fire was making relatively-impressive performance figures, for the era (early-mid-80’s), but, it had a propensity for failure, hence the oft-used nickname “Misfire”. The TPI (Tuned-Port Injection) system which was later used was much more reliable. If I was gonna convert it back to fuel injection, I’d just use Bosch K-Jetronic - that’s the most reliable fuel delivery system you can get on a car.

Home depot, Lowe’s and I even seen some at Walmart.

@@Rayspeed1 what is it called bro

@@Darwizzyjr you can use a “10 gauge wire”

@@Rayspeed1 what does it mean when I’m driving and it just stops but the battery is not dead ? I was thinking to try this good looks

@@Darwizzyjr I have another video on that issue. It could be the crank sensor or wiring to it

No, it’s still in the same spot.

It will

Definitely bad stater then

Autozone

Thanks

@@ShirleyC-nq1ns my pleasure!

Common problem in early 2000s gm cars. Theft deterrent system were made badly. Should be recalled but greedy mechanics love this issue. I recommend bypassing the security system. Buy a pro module, from the brand “newrockies “ it’s $300 and can be installed yourself, and it’s a permanent bypass to these security systems.

Did you run a 12v to the pin at the relay?

Same issue was running fine yesterday now its back in security mode.

@@jacksonkaos8368security system is really messed up in early 2000s gm cars, it can fail in multiple ways, u fix one thing and 2 other are still bunk, easiest thing to do is bypass the system entirely with a newrockies pro module

What’s your make and model?

Yes sorry I forgot to mention it

Thank you. I’ll try better next time

Me either

7:14 you good man

Not from the 15Amp fuse under the hood. I only did that for testing purposes you don’t want to use that one because you’ll fry your relay. I grab the power from a fuse by the driver door. The fuse was for the bcm it only supplies power when the keys is on, from there I ran the wire to the relay.

So you ran a wire from drivers side door to the fuse box?

@@andreworman5702 yes correct

@@Rayspeed1what would have to replace or repair for this to work normal without a wire?

This car started doing it intermittently and then it wouldn’t crank at all. Sorry I’m not what fuse link you’re saying. My problem is that I was missing a positive at the crank relay.

So the fuse link I’m talking about is actually the signal wire u jumped if you look at the post right there to the left of fuse box there’s a green wire ( fuse link) that connects to signal wire then to the back of fuse box where 98 pin connects.I’m having same issue no crank without a jump wire. After doing this have u had any other electrical problems no wire burns or anything?

@@andreworman5702 My fusible link smoked. Prior to that the car started perfectly. Any idea how to replace it or bypass it?

It started doing this intermittently then one day it wouldn’t crank at all.

Your car is sounds exactly how this one was. I believe you have the same issue. Try this!

Thank you so much! I'm gonna watch this again and be prepared the next time mine acts up! ❤

Ok, so I watched again. If I'm understanding right, you didn't leave the short white wire in the fuse box under the hood, from the 15A fuse to the pin 98 on the relay. Is that correct? You ended up taking that back off and ran a wire from the 10A BCM fuse in the interior fuse panel out to the pin 98 on the relay? From the side of the fuse that was powered up when the key was in the on position (not the crank position), and no power when the key was off? Or did you leave the short white wire from the 15A to the pin 98, as well? If so, was it powered regardless of key position? Again, thanks so much. Very informative.