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- Просмотров 27 649
GreentweenVideo
Добавлен 10 апр 2012
Yamaha Civante Frame Noise
Frame racket noise in 2022 Yamaha Civante. Used phone this time, to hear the snapping noise better.
Просмотров: 42
Видео
Yamaha Civante Ebike Frame Noise
Просмотров 121Год назад
Urban Rush, Cross Core, Cross Connect, Wabash, Civante,
Pertronix Flamethrower mechanical advance limiters not working correct.
Просмотров 734Год назад
Advance limiter don't work. Bronze springs (strongest). #6 Limiters. 18 degrees initial. Mechanical all in by 3100 RPM, results were 34 or 35 degrees total.This a normal combination. So the #6 limiters let it add 17 degrees. They are supposed to add only 12 degrees! I want to have 24 initial because the ignition box has startup delay parameter for easy starting. 24 initial and 12 mechanical wil...
Matt Mike Terry clip
Просмотров 274 года назад
5-2-2020 ride Music: Namaste by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Artist: audionautix.com/
Sodick IntelliQvic: IQ Solid to 4 Axis wire edm - die example
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.4 года назад
Importing parasolid into Sodick ALN600G to make the 4 axis toolpath
Sodick IntelliQvic: IQ Solid to 4 Axis wire edm - punch example
Просмотров 9704 года назад
Importing parasolid into Sodick ALN400G to make the 4 axis toolpath.
Hydroboost install complete Dodge Challenger
Просмотров 4034 года назад
Details about final install. Brakes work fantastic now. Best upgrade to the car I have done. I would recommend doing to any "driven" muscle car. Easily reversed for those concerned with "pedigree" cars.. The booster and bracket were about 500 and the braided hoses and fittings were about 300.
Hydroboost install Dodge Challenger
Просмотров 1024 года назад
Custom Power Brake hydroboost unit installed in place of stock power booster. Inverted fittings.
Hydroboost to Mopar AL master
Просмотров 4084 года назад
Adapting a Mopar aluminum master cylinder onto a Hydroboost unit.
Hydroboost adapter bracket measurments
Просмотров 1484 года назад
Information about booster bracket spacing when adding a Hydroboost to Mopar E body Challenger.
QA1 Mopar upper control arm
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.5 лет назад
QA1 Mopar upper control arm non adjustable with polyurethane greasable bushings.
zrx advancing the stock rotor timing
Просмотров 12 тыс.11 лет назад
zrx advancing the stock rotor timing
That preload gets me!
Is there any way to convert an IQ file to DXF?
I just bought a msd but I thought I'd give it another try before pulling the petronix
The L shape straps which block the weights from splaying out don't work. Yes L straps stop the weights from moving out (kind of) but they don't stop the entire advance plate from continuing to move more. I tried to explain this to Pertronix tech but they denied that was the case even though I sent them video. I stopped using the L straps and made new straps that go over both the spring pins. One end hole is size of pin, other side is short slot to allow advance I needed. It was trail and error to get length of slot correct to get advance amount I wanted... I would suggest to send Pertronix back if you can and go with something else..
@@GreentweenVideo thank you for your response now I know I'm not crazy, my new msd arrived yesterday. It's just gets so disappointing throwing money at dream and it still not work. I'll pull the petronix let sit on the shelf maybe try it on another project someday.
Did you ever get it figured out? I have the same problem first total timing ended up at 52 degrees
Good video, but your volume levels are extremely low.
I think you convinced me to sell my Civante. BTW I've owned over 30 Yamaha motorcycles in my lifetime.
I've had my Civante for two years. 1200 miles on it. That clicking noise drives me crazy. I've regreased the headset four times. I also thought the cables either internal or external were causing the sound. Yamaha should have a recall on this problem or refund my cost. I'm seriously thinking about selling it because of this noise.
I feel your pain. I would like to sell also, but with this noise, no one would buy it. Get a hold of your dealer. Have them change out the headset bearings and the fork under the 3yr warranty. Fork is on back order 2 months, I'm presently waiting for one as Yamaha thinks that is cause. Next should be to replace the frame.
@@GreentweenVideo Thanks for the reply and advice. The noise does seem to be coming from the headset, stem, fork area. I will be taking mine to a dealer and try to get a fork and headset ordered for it.
what model # is the indexer?
Bushings should NOT turn at all. Nice QA1 control arms, I have a set on my Cuda. Also, silicone only grease to lube a poly bushing.
So not a direct bolt in then is what your saying? I thought that these would have been slightly more thought through then that.
The sad part is customer service is no help at all. Thank you for the video I thought I was the only one with this problem.
I tried to pump grease through the grease fittings, but you cannot. I hope they came with grease inside.
Estoy metiendo el formato x-b pero no me reconoce nada gracias de ante mano
Hi, is it possible to download this program somewhere? We have Sodick VZ300
Jesus fuck, hold the camera still 😂
hi wonder if you could help. I'm relatively new to edm wire machines. I have programmed a part using the IQ software. when running the program it seems to be using a taper, i.e the u & v are moving whilst cutting direction X but I haven't programmed a taper its should be just a linear action a simple straight line.
You can buy a billet plate for like 35 bucks
How can you tell if you are advancing it 4 degrees? I just bought a zrx and had this part loose , it had plenty of slop so i think the previous owner did this mod. i want the bike have stock timing but im not sure where it is supposed to be at. is there a mark on the crack you can line up or do you think i should just buy a new timing plate. (see video on my page)
Gustavo, your advancer looks to me to be a modified stock one. If you turn it clockwise and then tighten the allen head bolt, that will put it back to stock. To advance yours there needs to be a new T mark so you know HOW MUCH to turn it counter clockwise. The HOW MUCH to turn it is why I made this video. For 4 degrees, at the OD of the rotor the T marker will need to moved basically 1/8 inch. You clearance the rotor and mark the new T position. Put it on the engine clockwise and tighten it. Then turn the engine over with the big nut so T stock marker and case mark align. Then carefully loosen the allen bolt but keep crank in place. Then at this crank position the original T mark is aligned when you hold the rotor clockwise. You can then rotate the rotor counterclockwise to align your new T mark you made, and tighten the allen bolt. The only way to check it is to use an adjustable timing light. Usually no one checks the timing once they put on an aftermarket advanced rotor. They just bolt it on and go. In this video you can see that a 1/8 distance from the original T mark puts the rotor 4 advanced from stock , or 14 BTDC. I would like to point out that in my video, I was using 1 hand on the camera, so I did not tighten it fully. It will be necessary to hold the big nut with a wrench while you tighten the allen head bolt.
Good stuff! Was wondering if anybody had bumped the timing on a ZZR1200. I want to try this on my '02. Not interested in max power so much as low down "grunt" enhancement and better fuel economy.