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The L shape straps which block the weights from splaying out don't work. Yes L straps stop the weights from moving out (kind of) but they don't stop the entire advance plate from continuing to move more. I tried to explain this to Pertronix tech but they denied that was the case even though I sent them video. I stopped using the L straps and made new straps that go over both the spring pins. One end hole is size of pin, other side is short slot to allow advance I needed. It was trail and error to get length of slot correct to get advance amount I wanted... I would suggest to send Pertronix back if you can and go with something else..

@@GreentweenVideo thank you for your response now I know I'm not crazy, my new msd arrived yesterday. It's just gets so disappointing throwing money at dream and it still not work. I'll pull the petronix let sit on the shelf maybe try it on another project someday.

I feel your pain. I would like to sell also, but with this noise, no one would buy it. Get a hold of your dealer. Have them change out the headset bearings and the fork under the 3yr warranty. Fork is on back order 2 months, I'm presently waiting for one as Yamaha thinks that is cause. Next should be to replace the frame.

@@GreentweenVideo Thanks for the reply and advice. The noise does seem to be coming from the headset, stem, fork area. I will be taking mine to a dealer and try to get a fork and headset ordered for it.

Gustavo, your advancer looks to me to be a modified stock one. If you turn it clockwise and then tighten the allen head bolt, that will put it back to stock. To advance yours there needs to be a new T mark so you know HOW MUCH to turn it counter clockwise. The HOW MUCH to turn it is why I made this video. For 4 degrees, at the OD of the rotor the T marker will need to moved basically 1/8 inch. You clearance the rotor and mark the new T position. Put it on the engine clockwise and tighten it. Then turn the engine over with the big nut so T stock marker and case mark align. Then carefully loosen the allen bolt but keep crank in place. Then at this crank position the original T mark is aligned when you hold the rotor clockwise. You can then rotate the rotor counterclockwise to align your new T mark you made, and tighten the allen bolt. The only way to check it is to use an adjustable timing light. Usually no one checks the timing once they put on an aftermarket advanced rotor. They just bolt it on and go. In this video you can see that a 1/8 distance from the original T mark puts the rotor 4 advanced from stock , or 14 BTDC. I would like to point out that in my video, I was using 1 hand on the camera, so I did not tighten it fully. It will be necessary to hold the big nut with a wrench while you tighten the allen head bolt.