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@@giysih Thanks!

@@Migglesworth Absolutely. I'm pretty sure this has a negative snow load rating😂😂😂

@@Chumley360 🤣🤣

Arrow's not bad, but really, I don't think any of these metal sheds are very good. If you want to be sure it doesn't leak, coat the roof with RV roof coating.

Thanks! It's been good for the past year and only one near miss while moving a tree. Need about 16 sets of eyes with all the hills around here.

@@arturo052685 It's all just the OEM 3rd gean parts. Just make sure you get the calipers with brackets so they clear the larger rotors.

I had no issue with fitment. Maybe there is an issue with different axles or possibly a year break withing the generations that caused a change? I have no idea.

@@Chumley360 That could be the issue. I will be sure to test fit before buying. The important issue is the brake upgrade. I did the front a couple years back, but was unsure of the rear 3rd gen parts fitting till now. This will be my next project. Thank you.

Without putting my hands on it, it sounds like a few things. How do the plugs look; fuel wet, chalky, carboned or oil soaked? Those can send you in a direction. If you went the economical route on the fuel system parts, something could be bad. It's just an understood risk with those that they don't hold up and are often bad out of the box. Are the linkages adjusted properly? It's easy to get stuff out of place on reassembly. Have you done a compression test?

That's cool that you got SAE hardware.

lol

I'm running around 17psi(1.17 bar), the turbo maxes out around 25psi(1.7 bar).

ES# 9.5167G, listed as 1-5/16" but fit well. www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-sway-bar-bushings.asp www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-5167G-SWAY-BUSHING/dp/B000CN9CRC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=32ER8VKWAJ998&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.QZmiEQ6OagiifoxMT6FdH4vvNHWv0rA0dGBujtY2p4HImss6-aX5vPH5bh5ya9rkFyFbDrs0_Fo-1q8c9RnJjEaFahWUTL3lIQ0lONcL_foqwt5-dATKtzi39xXba_Uhu7TUs_bIfq0qBwzNw5bVusxlzc6mAjvtSex1CreyOucsXyHKib4TQDHsjh4NMc3YEZtVRdONrYWYLdLFPC4CEqfFeeQmzhRzJsWVMqBuYDE.J01jEXqU_fp266wZzCKPfnqhuoJuVwAz3eGvY_k4Q2A&dib_tag=se&keywords=Energy+Suspension+9.5167G&qid=1714921949&sprefix=energy+suspension+9.5167g%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1

Thanks for stopping by.

Me too! Indiana guy here my cars are to new to go. I might hang out in Indy with you all on Friday. Good luck!

You are 100% not wrong. But it is an excuse to get some lipstick on this pig and the tires are absolute junk. I don't want to take that drive with my kiddo on those.

Not that I've seen. I didn't specifically check, but no coolant came from the old heads and none has leaked from there on the new ones.

Thanks. I get conflicting answers online, guess there's only one way to know for sure.

Thanks. Sounds like some good and easy content, I appreciate the suggestion.

Thanks

Removing the MC isn't bad, maybe a few hours of job plus time for a brake bleed. You shouldn't need to remove the MC for a basic system bleed. But depending on how empty everything got bleeding may take a while. Also, if the ABS block ran dry, that can cause a headache if you don't have a full-function scan tool to cycle the valves or some kind of forced system bleeder. I have not had to service a dry system on a WK2, so I can only guess baised on the other systems I have had experience with.

That's good info, thanks.

Not on a Durango specifically. But in general a long extension, or multiple connected, and either/both a swivel socket or universal & shallow socket with an impact gun go a long way. Also dropping the trans cross member so things can droop a little also helps. Use jack to support things, be patient, and be OK working by feel for the upper bolts. It's a little tough to type out, but once you start you should be able to see the way. Another thing is that the trucks have a tapered cross member, so if the Durango also does it will be a royal PITA to knock it out of the way.

Hortumlar fabrikada üretilir ve monte edilir. Ancak, yüksek basınçlı hidrolik hortum ve bağlantı parçaları ile kıvrımlı bağlantı parçalarıdır. Sorry if that didn't translate properly. The hoses are factory made and installed. But they are crimped fitting high pressure hydraulic hose and fittings.

You are correct about that part. I think I even saw a video where a piece of rubber and hose clamp. I spent a bunch of time looking it over while the bay was empty and found that the column to steering gear was reasonably fine. The part that I was messing with is where the auto shift linkage hooked up back when the truck was an auto. I guess it's a bit flobbly with nothing connected to it. Good luck with the gaskets.

@@Chumley360 🙏🫡

Cooper STT Pro

I won't dispute their junk status, but I can say that after 30 years of looking at junk header vs stock manifold dyno runs, junk headers are fine. Also I didn't go into these for "power", I wanted the stainless steel to replace cast iron. On that front they are fine.

I won't dispute their junk status, but I can say that after 30 years of looking at junk header vs stock manifold dyno runs, junk headers are fine. Also I didn't go into these for "power", I wanted the stainless steel to replace cast iron. On that front they are fine.

So far so good. I haven't noticed any noises or contact issues, so I'm calling it good.

Thanks! From the bits of research I did on the intake, replacement boils down to end use. The Barrel intake mods and aftermarket EFI intakes are all for more HP. Obviously if you go carb, then you're going in a whole other direction. If you use the truck in a manner that requires or utilizes torque then stick with the barrel intake. I opened/smoothed my intake ports and the throttle body, probably didn't do anything HP/TQ wise, but made me feel good. Also I'm having really good results with the Hughes ECU compatible cam. It was well worth the money.

In what way do you mean? I mean replacing a failing/bad master cylinder with a 100% functional one is always a winning ticket.

@@Chumley360 ok I wasn’t sure you said it seemed to fix the issue. I know sometimes it’s hard to tell the source of some issues. Just wanted to see if the part replacement solved it and solved it completely.

@@willied7759 Ahh, OK I'm with you now. Sorry about being vague with my words. Yes the MC was the culprit and a new one fixed the pedal fade issue.

That's definitely a good way to do things.

Overall I've been happy with the manual and the tractor. I just need some weights for it now.

As I stated, I honestly didn't look into the JL. I saw more JK stuff in forums and feeds, probably since I own one. But yeah, I can't see their payloads being significantly better than the JK. The Gladiator platform would be the way to go if you want Wrangler looks and the ability to carry more than a Happy Meal. But then you start getting into wheelbase issues. People can build what they want, I just had about a months worth of feed full of "Overland Jeep" content and it was 80% JKs, and I had to wonder "Why?".

Overall I'm happy with the manual, but I can see wanting a hydro later in life.

@Chumley360 Yea I'm 60 now and my back doesn't like the Manuel transmission at all

A manual transmission is hands down the best. Do not get suckered into buying a hydro because you have a bad back. There is a power shuttle shift standard transmission. Where it's all Gear Drive and has an electronic shifter located on the left of the steering wheel. Don't drink the Kool-Aid and buy a hydro in loose 70% of your pulling power

Cool I'll keep that in mind.