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Pretty cool to have a DRZ song.

Still working fine. Only issue is the oil seems to leak out when not in use.

Yeah - what was I thinking...guess I'll have to switch to virtual reality riding to stay alive.

The DRZ is limited by the rider :)

Basically just for room. Room between the fans for controls, room fore and aft for the brakets the way I wanted to use them.

This is after switching to an Android based display (in my case Joying) in place of the stock radio/display. In particular I'm using the app OBD Fusion which lets you make custom displays. I had to use a wi-fi based OBD-II adaper to get this to work. I'd use the Amazon Joying page to compare your radio to what they recommend to order. Or send them an email, they were quite responsive.

@ yeah I have the Joying 10.1 android head unit (JY-TZ167N4) I’ll do some research on this and see what I can come up with. Thanks

@@AZTMCS do you have a link for the one you used?

This is unit I have. www.amazon.com/dp/B0C69BTLJS Shows no longer available. I don't have the model number handy.

This is the OBD II adapter I'm using. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 prong

A pump can be used. My goal was to see how hard it would be to fill the differential without a pump. Thanks for watching.

True

Dimensions are 15.5" wide, then length varies 37.25" in the front, 40.5" in the back. Thickness is 1/2".

In Arizona summers mine are running for about 8 hours continuously. I haven't had issues with either one. I don't have any pets though. Thanks for watching.

The 25 is only 25lbs less torque (300 vs 275) so yes pretty handy to have the compact size. Thanks for watching.

Definetly, headphones with intercom. Would need earplugs otherwise.

Hey "Grumpy" good to hear from you. I believe there will be adequat space above. All sides are open and there's about 2" of clearence.

These are 90W fans. I measured them a 14V and it was about 10 amps (each). Thanks for watching.

I assume you mean catalytic converter - no converter, a very simple muffler. Thanks for watching.

@@AZTMCS thanks

The display dims when you turn on your lights. I'll add a small video of this tonight. Daytime viewing can be tough when you have direct light on it.

I have not found a procedure for this. I suggest calling a honda dealer and talking to service.

@@AZTMCS thank you very much 🤝

Hopefully you got the wiring diagram. You can connect either ignition 12 volts or battery 12 volts to the flasher. If you use battery power, just know that if you leave the signals on, you can run down the batter. The ground will be common to the flasher, switch and the red and orange lights. I used the frame for ground. As a test, connect one of the lights to the signal switch (you can just twist the bare wires together, make sure the ground is connected to everything), apply power to the flasher and the light will flash. If not, then change the switch position to the other direction. Mark the wire from the switch, noting which direction activated the light. This will tell you which wire from the switch is left or right. Next you'll have to run wire from the switch to both the front and back of the machine, to where you want the lights. Connect both front and back positive wires to the wire from the switch for that side. The red wire is positive on the red light, the yellow wire is positive on the orange light. Hope that helps.

@AZTMCS thank you helps out alot

never...

No this is the compact. Rated at 275lbs break away. I think high torque is around 1100 lbs, but quite a bit bigger. Thanks for watching.

Not sure about new kids...was doing that before the Internet as it makes sense. Probably won't burn up your engine if you don't prefill. Thanks for watching.

My bad then! I’ve been working on my car for far too long to mention and I’m a very technical engineer with multiple degrees and have done EVERY REPAIR on a car except rebuilding transmissions. I generally follow the mfg repair manuals (when they printed them) and have never seen the mfg mention it. Anyway, bought a 2023 CRV Hybrid for my son and did its 2nd oil change at 5 K mi and was curious how others did it. BTW, the spec capacity of 4.2 qt doesn’t bring the oil level to the top marker on the dipstick, puts it right at the center. Granted, this is my first interaction with a Honda, but isn’t that unusual?

Not sure if manufactures intend for the rated capacities to be under the full mark, but maybe like you I prefer to have them full. I'll admit that I've never done any empirical tests to see if the time that a low oil pressure light stays on after an oil / filter change is different between pre-filling the filter or not (would be better with a pressure gauge anyway). We know that unless its a rebuild, there will be residual oil films on about every surface so the likelihood of damage without pre-filling is pretty low if not zero. Do you agree that the finite time for the first oil to pass thru the filter would be less if its been pre-filled? This could still be within the time from first crank to actual start, which would mean it wouldn't matter, but I think its safe to say that pre-filling won't cause any problems. Notably on engines with a horizontal, or 'upside down' filter it probably isn't worth the mess. Interesting conversation.

Just ran across this video. ruclips.net/video/939WTeorBnQ/видео.html

​@@735SecureSpeak English much ?

Agree - for me the DRZ is about perfect. Just need one more gear :) . Thanks for watching.

Strike price was $6200. After all the fees and taxes it was just under 8K. I has 3600 miles, about 260 hrs. Some surprise gifts were the MBRP slipon, center fuel rail, front shock brace, roll over valve, tree kickers. Thanks for watching.

You did well. Nice job

​@@AZTMCSworth it, hope it lasts you 🥂

yeah - the trama only lasted a few days, so now just fun, with much less cost than new or normal used price. :)

Yes, pretty happy with it, and like I mentioned Joying was very helpful and responsive. Thanks for watching.

Fair point on the fluid link, added to the notes, and here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETCYYC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I knew there were other videos showing pumps used, wanted to show an alternative. I did mention a new washer on the drain plug which is the most critical. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching

I had the same take away. It's very solid on the factory radio mounts, and I can't normally see the gap. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 tundra that I've been wanting to upgrade the head unit. Did you have the basic radio or the upgrade JBL? I have the 12 speaker JBL/amped system that I would like to keep. They claim that you need to use their cameras. It's this true? At this time I don't have any but would like to install an OEM handle camera for the rear and one for the front. I was looking specifically at a model camera that has a great mounting bezel and adjustable angle.

I had the basic speaker system. I had/have the OEM backup camera. I think mine was the first time their unit was replacing this OEM unit. They made me a harness to utilize the OEM backup camera. Joying was very helpful/responsive to questions. If you send them a picture of your OEM unit I'd think they'd tell you which harness option to order. Good luck. One note, after the update to get the wireless Android Auto to work, the boot up time is longer. From key on to reverse camera showing is 17 seconds. I do see they have a newer unit now.

I used the factory brackets. the two rear 10mm mounting holes on the bracket can be opened up like an oval allowing the brackets to be set lower in the dash. this will allow the head unit to snap in place better. Joying should have made their our replacement bracket... as always I'm having to fab stuff. but that make it fun too. hope this helps

@@jschue1161 I'd be interested to see how your mounting brackets look/which radio holes you used! I'd be surprised if it sits completely flush.

Time will tell. I was looking for a budget solution. Thanks for watching.

i purchased 3 of these in 2018 and theyre still working as the first time i opened them, only one of them has a stripped knob and i use a penny to turn the knob now though im pretty sure you can buy a knob replacement for like 5 bucks but im too lazy to do it, all you need to do is maintain them every now and then, a rubbermaid utility brush, scrub the dust off, vaccum dust off the coils, and use a damp rag to wipe the fan down, the motors on these things are no joke.

I'd suggest you download the owners manual from Honda. It will have all the recommended service intervals and recommendations for harsh conditions. Enjoy

Since I thought I'd have to replace the knuckle, all the other attachments were eventually removed. Was able use a press to re-shape the strut opening in the knuckle and re-use it. Only the bolt on the back of the knuckle was removed to release the strut from the knuckle. I'm not sure if a normal strut / knuckle on the MDX is hard to seperate or if it just slides off. Since mine was bent and twisted there was no way it would fall off. If you're doing a CV axle replacement, I'd try to remove as little as possible. If most say everything just flops down, I'd put a tie down strap from the tie rod or something up to the top of the spring, to hold everything. Thanks for watching.

The DRZ really is a great bike. Not all the latest bling but for sure doesn't limit me in any way, and mine is very comfortable (55+ consideration ...lol). Thanks for watching.

Stay tuned for the day 4 full version to see how we got there.

Imagining your in a race make yard work go faster :) Thanks for watching.